Elantra MD (2010-15) :: No Electrical Power / Will Not Start
Sep 26, 2013
Today I was taking me sister to a DR appointment. I believe I turned off the car when I got back in the car was dead. There was no electrical power,not lights horn etc. I took the key out and in multiple time nothing. I got out raise the hood and look about but nothing suspicious stood out. Previously on an intermittent basis sometimes when I got into start the car the clock was off by about 2 hours and all the radio presets were gone. This is a 2013 Coupe with manual transmission. Finally I remembered a similar situation I had with a Saab I had. I got in and rolled the car a bit in neutral and popped the clutch with no key in it. When I tried the key it came started as usual.
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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I am experiencing a new problem with my 2006 Hyundai Elantra. For the 2nd time now (meaning this morning) the car will not start the first time in the morning. As I turn the key past the "on" position all the regular lights will come on, bells ding, etc. but when I move the key to the "Start" position, where the car would normally crank over and start, the entire car electrical system dies. (Interior lights off, non-responsive with the keyless entry, etc.) Yesterday, I figured my battery cables might be loose or something like that. By the time I popped the hood (no more than 30-45 sec) everything turned back on. I then tried to start the car again and the car started normally without issues, with me having done nothing other than pop the hood by this time.
When my car sits all day at work and I return to leave it will start normally without problems. This morning is now the 2nd time this has happened. My battery is practically brand new as it was replaced about three weeks ago. So, my question is: What could be causing the car to not start in the morning the first time, but then somehow "fix" itself without any user intervention on my part other than popping the hood?
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While driving my lights flash like a strobe light and I can see this at night. The. The car loses electrical power for 1 sec and then all okay. In the morning when I start the car I get ESP errors whilst idling, I then turn the car off and try to start it again and everything is completely dead!
When connecting jumper cables then trying again it works, the. I don't have a problem for about 3 days the. The same thing happens. Battery is brand new, had it at the dealers and errors are intermittent electrical errors but doesn't say where.
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Ok so here's the deal my woman stopped at a gas station and when she got back into the car, it wouldn't start. Since then I have replaced the battery and started to check fuses ( but w no real guide to what fuses work what its hard to figure things out ) I have found 4 fuses that are marked engine but only 2 of them have power (and yes the 2 fuses that aren't working are good fuses not broken) . I have pulled the bottom of the dash apart but what relay goes to what so I'm at a loss...
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I have a 2007 santa fe. In the last year or so, when you turn the key to start the car - you get nothing... Like it has no electrical power, no sound, etc. However, it has never lasted more than 1min to an hour it varies. There is nothing you can do about it, just try it a couple of times, come back and try it again. It has never not started eventually. About 95% of the time, it starts within 10 min after you start trying it. However every now and again it is 10 min to an hour or more. Sometimes it goes weeks without doing it (starts the first time) and then you get a string of everyday for weeks.
The dealer can't figure out whats wrong, they need it to stop working completely. I am an engineer and have not been able to find any correlation (cold weather vs hot), not driving it for a while, turning off ac, lights, radio, using a different key. Also, during this time the battery has been periodically tested and has tested out fine.
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The problem started with me leaving the parking lights on, battery was discharged overnight; jump started it, drove it around to charge the battery, ran fine for two days. Now when I switch Ignition Switch to start I hear a sort of mechanical "clack" and I lose all electrical power, nothing, nada. Removed and took the battery to check it and charge it, tested good and is now fully charged.
Reinstalled battery, same symptom, a "clack" when I try to start it, then dead, all electrical power disappears unless I rock the steering wheel up and down, rock the shifter through the gears, etc. It's been raining in Florida daily, I wonder if water is to blame. Start Lock Relay?? Ignition Switch??
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Experienced a weird sweat smell when first start your car with the AC on? Is there a way to fix this?
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Have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra that will sometimes not start . But after s few attempts it will turn over??
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Standing in drive, engine shakes enough to be annoying in the car. Not a huge shake, but was not there a week ago.
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2000 XLT F150 4.6 - New starter & solenoid(s), battery cable & fuse links good.
When i turn the key, I hear one single click and the power cuts out entirely. I can't attempt a second start or turn on the lights or have any power going through the truck until I disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds then reconnect. Electrical becomes live again, then when the ignition is turned the electrical cuts out again. I do hear a single cluck at the starter (probably attempting to engage when it cuts out) and a clunk right at the inside fuse box (drivers side).
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I have had a rattle that lasts 2 seconds on my 2012 Elantra for the since about 2 oil changes ago. The car has 152,000 miles on it and I've changed the oil regularly per the maintenance schedule, although not always with a Hyundai filter.
I'm strongly suspecting that this is the timing chain tensioner, but I could be wrong. Other than this, the car runs fine. I tried having the oil changed by the Hyundai dealer with the OEM oil filter and the problem appears to be a little worse. It first started to appear on cold start up after the car sat for >8 hrs or so. Now, it appears on cold start up >2 hrs. I noticed that the dealer put 5W20 in it.
I'm wondering if lower viscosity oil makes the problem worse during hot weather. It seems when the weather is colder it takes longer for it to appear. I'm wondering what my options are here. I really don't know how much $$ it is to go after the tensioner and how critical it is - the dealer said they do replace them and that doesn't always fix the problem though I'm not sure what he meant. I have read a few other posts about tensioners here, but I'm also wondering if this is an issue with the new engine.
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1965 F100 300cid electrical drain...
I am attaching a link to my thread in the 1960's truck forum : [URL] .....
With my limited skill level, I have given up! It could very likely be something I am doing wrong with the diagnoses/troubleshooting.
Basically, When I turn the key to start the truck, I get a clicking solenoid at best and what appears to be a total loss of power. Not even the dome light will come on. The starter is new as is the solenoid.
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I have a 2002 F-250 with a 7.3.
I have been having a no crank, no start issue off and on for a while. batteries are new, cables are new, connections are clean, and starter has been rebuilt and checked. I bought a "starter relay" which i thought was the top solenoid in this picture. I also replaced the lower solenoid in the picture. The bottom solenoid was replaced with what im sure is the correct replacement. The upper I think is wrong. It started but then shut down and will not restart. The upper solenoid also was very hot after it shut down.
Long story short what is the upper solenoid for? Im assuming its not the starter solenoid. If so where is the Starter solenoid on a 2002 7.3?
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I have a 1996 E350 7.3 pstd and it hasn't started since April... Van ran great but had bad bearings in the steering column. I changed out the bearings around the steering stem and it hasn't started since but turns over just fine. The main symptom is the dash loses power when key is rotating from the last run position to the spring back crank position. Basically halfway between run and start the the dash drops power. You can see the problem very well in this video I'm attaching.
I filmed this moths ago so the dash is in disarray and I'm using a screw driver to activate the ignition switch. The screw driver bypasses the key cylinder which I thought was the problem but it's not. Parts I've replaced include new glow plug relay, new ignition switch, alternator rebuilt, 2 brand new batteries, new cps sensor, and also a new pcm. All fuses and relays have been checked and most have been tested, pcm gets power in run position as well. Gotta get this thing figured out it's been sitting for 6 months
Watch the video : [URL] ....
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I have 2013 elantra gls, and sometimes when I start it after it sits for awhile I hear an weird squeal. It don't happen all the time and it always fire right up no problems just sometimes with that noise?
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Mine is just like this other owner's Elantra. Stealership say's "it normal". Surprise, surprise!
When I asked him how come my car wasn't doing it 50 miles ago and the 2013 loaner doesn't do it, his answer was "it's warrantied to 100k". I call BS. It's the timing chain tensioner or the the guides or both.
I say Hyundai knows about this and does not want to pay for warranty work because it's a costly job labor wise. Just like the Sonata's tensioner problems of the past.
2013 Hyundai Elantra Ticking noise - YouTube
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I just got into my 2012 GLS Elantra and tried firing it up, and the engine will turn over, but wont start. Power windows, radio, lights, everything works. Earlier in the day, I moved the car from the garage to the driveway and turned it off about 30 seconds after I turned it on..
I've read things from checking the sparks to the fuel pump..is it possible that it could be flooded? I am leaving it alone right now and I plan to try to fire it up in an hour or so with the accelerator fully pressed down in case this is the case, hopefully that does the trick..
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Several times when I started my 2014 Elantra I herd a lot of rattling just like a diesel that lasted around 5 min. I recorded the sound and took car to the nearest dealer in about 100 miles. Two times I left over night so they could hear the sound in AM on first start up. But of course it didn't do it for them and they said they could not diagnose but they did hear clicking noise. When I played the recording said sounds just like a diesel. That's it they did nothing. Now it doesn't sound quite so bad just rattling and clicking. It only 40k miles and still under warranty to 60k. What should I do? Next nearest dealer is about 100 miles. I thought about trading it but I do like the car.
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I want to know which method is the more appropriate and safer option to start the engine with a push button. There are two ways:
Method 1) You get in the car, press the brake, push the button to START
Method 2) You get in the car, push the button till all the lights come on, wait for a few seconds, press the brake, and push the button to START
Which one is more recommended? Does either option have any affect on the mechanism and life of the Push Button function?
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This just started yesterday on cold start and happened again this morning and this evening always after sitting for hours. I would call it a chatter sound, very distinct and only on the first start. Never heard it before. Have 97K on car, will be changing the plugs soon. Once it is warm the sound is not there on starts. It is only when starting, sounds fine once running. What would only be noisy when cold like this? Timing chain? Valves? I'm going to let others with a better sense of engines than me (my son and his friend who are mechanics) listen to it and see what they think. But it needs to be cold. Never heard such a sound on my Hondas which makes me think it may be the chain. Funny how it just came out of no where.
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