Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Motor Won't Turn Freely After Stalling In Water
Jan 3, 2014
We had some unusually warm weather and a lot of rain. After work I was driving home in my 2012 elantra limited and stalled in some flash flood water. This was not deep enough to come into the car. When I hit the water the splash went in the intake and I stalled out. I pushed the car out of the water, waited a few and tried to start it. I have the push button ignition so it clicked 3 times and did not turn the motor over. I then saw and smelled electrical smoke. All my lights, radio, windows everything work. I fried the starter which I determined by removing and having it tested. I ordered a new one from the dealer.
I took the intake apart and removed as much water as I could. I ran the shop heater all night to dry up whatever water in the motor bay that I could. Then a couple weeks passed waiting on the starter to come in. It's gotten cold and I'd imagine whatever water may be in it froze. The day I got the starter I ran the shop heater again 12+ hours and drained the oil out. No real water to speak of. I also removed the plugs and attempted to turn the motor by hand via the crank and I can only get about a quarter turn in either direction. When I put the new starter in it does the same. Cranks the motor a split second and seizes. Is there something I'm missing? How could I have tied up the motor from a water accident? Is there something else electrical I may have ruined that would prevent the motor from turning freely?
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Noticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.
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Starting yesterday I noticed that I could hear a sloshing sound when I turn the car. It sounds like pouring water. After some driving around my neighborhood I've found that I hear the sloshing sound ONLY when the AC is on and when I turn left. It also has a sizzle sound that reminds me of dropping bacon in a hot pan.
I laid down in the floor and looked up under the dash. It looks like there's a motor and it's leaking water. That doesn't sound like a motor should be wet...The motor type thing appears to be a cylinder and says Bosch GM-M on it along with some numbers.
The carpet mat in the floor is getting a bit wet as well so that leads me to believe that something under there is leaking water and I can assume that it's leaking onto something hot creating the sizzle sound.
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I took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
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I bought a certified 2011 Elantra GLS about a week and a half ago. Previously a one owner lease with just under 27k on it.
While driving to work this morning I was stopped on a slight incline in traffic. When traffic started to move I gave the car a tiny bit of gas and the car stalled. I could only move the gear to Neutral. However, when I did, the car started right back up.
I don't think it was a low gas issue as I have about 3/4 of a tank in there.
When I got to work I drove super slowly around the parking lot and was able to replicate the stall multiple times. It seems when giving it barely any gas the car stalls out. It happens at 1000 RPM and I think it's when it's trying to decide to shift into 2nd or stay in 1st. Again, I was moving super slow (< or around 5mph) while barely pressing on the gas.
Is this something "normal" where enough gas just isn't getting pushed through? Is it something I should mention when I take my car into them Saturday to get detailed?
I did notice once or twice in the past week sitting at a light that I thought it was idling a little rougher than it should have been but it didn't really concern me as much. But now with this stall now I'm questioning everything (paranoid).
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When first drove the new Elantra, I stalled it more than should. At first I figured I was just new to the feel of the clutch, and not in tune with the hints of RPM given by the motor's sound, etc.
A couple of times after stalling, I pulled the shifter to a middle neutral, and then back in 1st, and now it really felt like it was in 1st. Eventually, I developed a quirky habit of shifting out of 1st to neutral and back to 1st every time I stopped. My kids commented on it and they don't even drive.
A couple of times I've cautiously done this test, and it proved my suspicion. Suppose you are coasting at a speed of around 40 mph or 60 kph, and intend to come to a stop ahead. I typically push the clutch in and coast, then brake. Somewhere along the coast to stop, I will also put the gear into 1st. I've discovered that if the gear shift is put into 1st while the coast speed is sufficiently high, the actual gear selected is 3rd. Then, when you start to pull away from the stop, the engine stalls.
If anyone tries to reproduce this shift into 3rd when 1st was intended while still coasting, be careful and let out the clutch slowly at the early part of the release so you will get a hint from the engine RPMs what gear it is heading toward. I don't want to be responsible for wear and tear on your transmission/engine or accidents. I've only attempted this test on a road with no traffic, myself.
Although what I am claiming sounds wacky, I think it is possible, given that transmissions over the years have been moving towards electronic rather than physical linkage.
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2015 Elantra, 3100km. I was running low on gas, but had 50km left on the "range". About 500 meters from the gas station I ran out of gas. I started up again and made it to the pumps and stalled.
Once I filled up, it took a while to get the car started. Once it did it stalled whenever I drove and slowed down. I can start the car in neutral (it's a manual) but when I go to drive it stalls. Engine light is on.
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While driving the other day and making a slow sharp turn, like a u turn, I felt my wheels binding like they were in 4WD. I got under the truck and I could not turn my front axles freely. I jacked each side up independently and I could spin each tire and the axle would turn as well.
I thought being out of 4WD that the axles would turn freely? Mine do not.
I have ESOF and my hubs are turned to AUTO.
Is this normal or do I have an issue with my hubs or transfer case?
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I have a 2011 Elantra Limited with 63k miles on it. My car started with having troubles starting after filling up with gas, then it moved to about once every 25 times I started my car, the tachometer wouldn't turn on, and the car would have poor drivability shifting gears. Now it has progressed to stalling at stop lights. It has only done it when the car is warm and I'm stopped at longer lights. Will just die, but can be restarted after a couple tries. However on restart, the tachometer doesn't work and again with poor shifting. I typically have to turn off the road and stop my car and start it again and it's fine.
I just had a new battery as well as new spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced. Car dealership cannot recreate problem so they say there is nothing they can do.
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I was washing my Elantra earlier and I noticed water spots all over the windshield when I was done cleaning it! Side, and rear windows too. What can I do to get rid of them? I tried 50/50 water and vinegar, and a lot came off but I still have quite a bit.
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A couple weeks ago I had my first oil change - not at the dealer - but at a place I've gone a hundred times. After I noticed every day a puddle, not a couple drops but a puddle going down my driveway or wherever I parked of water.
I thought for a few days it was condensation off the engine, or the AC, since it was very hot. Except I don't use the AC much & wasn't using it when the water was leaking. I looked under the car & there is a hose hanging from the back of the engine area & dripping water.
I've honestly never looked under the car & noticed the hose & it's only hanging about an inch - so I'm not sure I've just never noticed... But until the oil change there was never a noticeable water leak..
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My wife accidentally mixed water in the engine oil valve. Probably around 2 cups of water. What to do?
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Is it normal to have water on the door sill whenever it rains? Driver side. Passenger side haven't noticed any yet. Basically the black step cover which has Elantra on it is soaked whenever it rains.
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Couldn't find a post for my year, but, I have a 2012 Elantra. I drive about a mile and I see 4-5 bars on my dash for the water temp. Is this common?
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I have a 2013 Elantra and yesterday all this water came into the car underneath the glove box / under the dash. When making right or left hand turns you can hear the water sloshing around behind the dash. Its definitely water. What is causing water to leak into the car?
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I pressed the start button, foot on the brake, (like normal), and the engine revs but won't turn over. Here is the YouTube link of what is happening...
2012 Hyundai Elantra Limited Won't Start - YouTube
Calling the dealership in the morning.
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I recently purchased a 2011 hyundai elantra and i bought a aftermarket navigation. I connected everything how it should be (i think) and the navigation screen would not turn on but the buttons work and volume and everything else but the screen wouldnt turn on. I took it to a mechanic and he told me it was this strip that was burned. But it was working before he messed with it now the radio doesn't sound. Nothing works. Im trying to find the name of this part so i can buy a replacement.
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I find if i jump in the car and turn the key quickly to start it sputters but doesn't turn over. When i try again a second time its always ok.
Happens a lot after i fill my tank, seems to never give issues if i turn the key to the on position and give it a couple seconds till i start it.
I have an injen cold air intake, and magnaflow muffler don't know if those would contribute to the problem? Should i take it to hyundai and let them take a look.
I also notice when i start my car the rpm jumps to 2000 and then drops down, i run synthetic oil and Hyundai filters.
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I was changing my lights to led.. i finished the two lights in the passenger and the driver side and it worked... then I change the light in the vanity mirror, driver side to led but it doesn't turn on.. i switch the led to reverse side.. nothing happen.. I put back the old bulbs still wont turn on... then I tried to open the the two lights.. now they are not working... even the dome lights..
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How do I turn my dash lights COMPLETELY off? I do a lot of night driving and have learned to live with the dimmer all the way down, though my personal preference is to have it just a little dimmer. My commute makes traffic unpredictable, so I often get to work early (better than too late!), so I like to nap a little in the car until time to drag myself in to the office. When my headlights are off and I'm parked, the dash lights are WAY bright. Is there a way to turn them off, and also have the headlights off too? I need the headlights off (and the silly parking lights that stay on till you set the parking brake). So, simply stated, is there a way to turn everything all the way off while the engine (and heater) stay running?
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