Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Manual Transmission And Stalling
Mar 4, 2014
When first drove the new Elantra, I stalled it more than should. At first I figured I was just new to the feel of the clutch, and not in tune with the hints of RPM given by the motor's sound, etc.
A couple of times after stalling, I pulled the shifter to a middle neutral, and then back in 1st, and now it really felt like it was in 1st. Eventually, I developed a quirky habit of shifting out of 1st to neutral and back to 1st every time I stopped. My kids commented on it and they don't even drive.
A couple of times I've cautiously done this test, and it proved my suspicion. Suppose you are coasting at a speed of around 40 mph or 60 kph, and intend to come to a stop ahead. I typically push the clutch in and coast, then brake. Somewhere along the coast to stop, I will also put the gear into 1st. I've discovered that if the gear shift is put into 1st while the coast speed is sufficiently high, the actual gear selected is 3rd. Then, when you start to pull away from the stop, the engine stalls.
If anyone tries to reproduce this shift into 3rd when 1st was intended while still coasting, be careful and let out the clutch slowly at the early part of the release so you will get a hint from the engine RPMs what gear it is heading toward. I don't want to be responsible for wear and tear on your transmission/engine or accidents. I've only attempted this test on a road with no traffic, myself.
Although what I am claiming sounds wacky, I think it is possible, given that transmissions over the years have been moving towards electronic rather than physical linkage.
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I've been working on a cruise control issue on & off for about a year now. Vehicle is a 2011 UD Elantra with a 6 speed manual trans. Problem is cruise won't set in 6th gear. Works perfectly in 2nd through 5th gears.
Cruise power light stays on but won't set. Upshift indicator working correctly. I've had Hyundai field service engineers look at it 3 times with no luck. Vehicle has no fault codes at all. All switch & sensor inputs are correct. The only vehicle I had with a man. trans. to compare to was a 2013 MD. Cruise worked fine in 6th on that vehicle. The last word we got from Hyundai (supposedly from Korea), was that this is normal and cruise on that model is not supported in 6th gear. I find this hard to believe but I wouldn't doubt this is a programming issue. 6th gear should be the most used gear for cruise operation.
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Ok so my transmission feels loose, too much play between the coast and drive side of the gears. Makes enough noise now that my wife complained about it so I'm looking into taking it to the dealer. I pretty much expect them to pass this off and do nothing, but its getting worse especially in the last couple of months.
Noticed a lot of play in there gearbox? Can you hear the gears make noise as they shift from coast to drive side?
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I've been hearing a quiet 'thump' when shifting. In particular, when first letting up the clutch starting out in 1 but also when shifting between gears when the clutch is fully down such as from 2->3.
I thought perhaps a fluid change was in order since I'm at 110,000 miles. It didn't make any difference. (I used Mobil 1 GL5 which according to independent tests is safe on yellow metals.)
So then I wondered if it's the engine mounts, but I'm not sure what it sounds like when they need to be replaced or if simply shifting between gears while driving as described above would cause a worn one to 'thump'.
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I have a 2005 Elantra GT hatchback that I love with a 5 speed transmission. Lately every time I'm in 2nd gear, the transmission will pop out of 2nd into neutral. This only happens in 2nd gear. I heard it could be the shift collar (i.e. teeth?) that aren't grabbing in that gear.
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I recently started having an issue where when I shift from 1 to 2 I'll get a quick grind of the gears. Here are the circumstances:
- the clutch is completely depressed, just the act of moving the shifter from 1 to 2 causes the grind.
- only when the car is moving.
- one time I was driving and coasting for a while just shifting back and forth from 1 to 2 with the clutch fully depressed and it kept happening.
- if I shift really slowly I can usually prevent it from happening, though I don't think it's RPM related.
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My 2005 elantra 5-speed had typical clutch issues. Had a new one put in where i worked which repaired dump trucks and dumpster roll-off trucks. Got in the car and still had similar issues. I say similar because now when i start it cold, i have no 1st or 2nd..start moving in 3rd and drop into 2nd. After about 10 minutes of driving, you can chirp the tires in 1st. Could they have put gear oil that was too heavy and it needs to get warmed up? Does this sound possible? Should I change the gear oil?
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I have a 2011 elantra a 6 speed manual and im trying to take off the shift knob and can't seem to do it....
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This lady at work has a 2011(?) Elantra sedan and she said she complained about her manual trans. not being smooth. She said the Hyundai mechanic adjusted something in the clutch and her transmission became smooth again. What part needs to be adjusted? She doesn't know and I would definitely like to know because I know it is not normal.
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Is there a way to shut this feature off. I don't need to be told when I have to shift or down shift. I thought the manual tranny E's had the ECO button which would turn this feature off, but there's no button.
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I am in the nasty position of having to remove my 6-spd manual transmission to investigate the nasty whine in it. The dealer says $2300 to fix it and the parts are $100, so I am going to do it myself. I have been unable to find a repair manual yet for the 2010 Camry and I was wondering for step by step for removal of the tranny. I don't need a lot of detail, but it is nice to know the order in broad strokes.
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Just curious if there are any other 2010 owners with any difficulty shifting gears in their manual transmission camrys? I noticed during my test drive that I grinded my way into 2nd once... I thought it might have just been my nervousness with a new clutch at the time. However, I've since put 300 miles on the car and I still have trouble putting it into second gear on a daily basis. Sometimes it grinds a bit, and sometimes it catches or a half second before it pops in. All the gears OTHER than 2nd gear go in like butter as you would expect with a new transmission. I'm not new to a clutch... this is at least my 4th car with a stick, so I don't think I'm doing anything out of the ordinary when shifting.
It reminds me of some older (100,000+ mile Nissan) cars I've had in the past... the syncromesh was wearing out and it would grind going into second or third, so I put in some RedLine MTL and got a little more life out of the transmission... but there shouldn't be a need for that kind of thing on a car with less than 1000 miles on it?!
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I bought a certified 2011 Elantra GLS about a week and a half ago. Previously a one owner lease with just under 27k on it.
While driving to work this morning I was stopped on a slight incline in traffic. When traffic started to move I gave the car a tiny bit of gas and the car stalled. I could only move the gear to Neutral. However, when I did, the car started right back up.
I don't think it was a low gas issue as I have about 3/4 of a tank in there.
When I got to work I drove super slowly around the parking lot and was able to replicate the stall multiple times. It seems when giving it barely any gas the car stalls out. It happens at 1000 RPM and I think it's when it's trying to decide to shift into 2nd or stay in 1st. Again, I was moving super slow (< or around 5mph) while barely pressing on the gas.
Is this something "normal" where enough gas just isn't getting pushed through? Is it something I should mention when I take my car into them Saturday to get detailed?
I did notice once or twice in the past week sitting at a light that I thought it was idling a little rougher than it should have been but it didn't really concern me as much. But now with this stall now I'm questioning everything (paranoid).
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A friend has a 2010 ranger with the 2.3L with the manual transmission. He said that when he drives and the rpms are up he said he gets a grinding noise it doesn't matter what gear 1rst or 5th. He think throw out bearing but no noises at all until the rpms are up there. I was think internal like shift fork but don't know.
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2015 Elantra, 3100km. I was running low on gas, but had 50km left on the "range". About 500 meters from the gas station I ran out of gas. I started up again and made it to the pumps and stalled.
Once I filled up, it took a while to get the car started. Once it did it stalled whenever I drove and slowed down. I can start the car in neutral (it's a manual) but when I go to drive it stalls. Engine light is on.
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We had some unusually warm weather and a lot of rain. After work I was driving home in my 2012 elantra limited and stalled in some flash flood water. This was not deep enough to come into the car. When I hit the water the splash went in the intake and I stalled out. I pushed the car out of the water, waited a few and tried to start it. I have the push button ignition so it clicked 3 times and did not turn the motor over. I then saw and smelled electrical smoke. All my lights, radio, windows everything work. I fried the starter which I determined by removing and having it tested. I ordered a new one from the dealer.
I took the intake apart and removed as much water as I could. I ran the shop heater all night to dry up whatever water in the motor bay that I could. Then a couple weeks passed waiting on the starter to come in. It's gotten cold and I'd imagine whatever water may be in it froze. The day I got the starter I ran the shop heater again 12+ hours and drained the oil out. No real water to speak of. I also removed the plugs and attempted to turn the motor by hand via the crank and I can only get about a quarter turn in either direction. When I put the new starter in it does the same. Cranks the motor a split second and seizes. Is there something I'm missing? How could I have tied up the motor from a water accident? Is there something else electrical I may have ruined that would prevent the motor from turning freely?
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I have a 2011 Elantra Limited with 63k miles on it. My car started with having troubles starting after filling up with gas, then it moved to about once every 25 times I started my car, the tachometer wouldn't turn on, and the car would have poor drivability shifting gears. Now it has progressed to stalling at stop lights. It has only done it when the car is warm and I'm stopped at longer lights. Will just die, but can be restarted after a couple tries. However on restart, the tachometer doesn't work and again with poor shifting. I typically have to turn off the road and stop my car and start it again and it's fine.
I just had a new battery as well as new spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced. Car dealership cannot recreate problem so they say there is nothing they can do.
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So I lifted the car up to get under there to change the oil when I noticed the transmission side was covered with fluid.
The mileage has never been good with this car for us and it never liked to shift (would race up to 4000rpms at times before shifting with minimal throttle). So I am beginning to believe that this might be the cause of it. We haven't noticed any spots in the driveway and the dealer has done all the service before this.
Car has 9000 miles now and is a 2012. It goes in tomorrow because that's the earliest the dealer had an appointment. Will update with what they say.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic with the Tiptronic transmission. last week I went to put the transmission into Tiptronic mode and it would not go in. it like crunch to the right and would not shift gear up or down nor would the gear number appear on the digital dash.
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Our Elantra Coupe has 3000 miles on it and leaks ATF. Everyday I see more than a few drops underneath the drivers side. We took it to the dealer. They "re-tightened the bolts" but the leak continues. I crawled under it, removed the plastic belly pan and took some photos.
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I have a 2010 Elantra and I have been having problems accelerating in the last couple of months. Took it to a mechanic and they said it's definitely my transmission. I am at 51,118 miles and so I am still under warranty. The Hyundai dealership said the transmission needs to be completely replaced. How does this happen to a car that isn't that old and doesn't have many miles on it? A factory defect?
The dealership, being a dealership tried to get me to do a bunch of other stuff to my car and I wanted to ask all of you about one of them. They said my battery is going to die soon. I guess it's at 236 (amps?) and should be at 550 (according to the dealership, that's where it should be). Is that right? I don't know enough about cars to know whether this is right and don't tend to trust dealerships.
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