After having a 2007 Sonata with 172k miles I purchased a 2015 Elantra Sport on Saturday 4.11.15. After 3 day, my malfunction light came on. I called the dealership and I will taking it in on Saturday.
View 7 RepliesMy engine malfunction light has come on.
View 7 RepliesThe malfunction indicator light on my 2004 Hyundai Elantra stays on from the time I start the car and stays on while driving. I know that it needs to be taken to have the code read but I was just wondering what this meant and if it is a serious problem.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra SE, and up until very recently I've had no issues with it, and am very happy with this car. About 2 weeks ago the malfunction indicator light came on. I checked the manual and it said to contact the dealer ASAP to have it checked out, but the car will still run. I've been terribly busy, and this is the first chance I've had to bring it in, so that's the plan for tomorrow. What this could mean, and will any necessary repairs be covered until the 100,000 mile warranty? If there is a repair needed that isn't covered, I definitely don't want to take it to the dealer!
Also, a few days after this light appeared, my gas mileage has been horrible, apparently. I say apparently because the digital mileage range now tops out at 255 when my tank is full; it used to be 336. It costs the same to fill it, and takes the same amount of gas, about 12 gallons. The gauge goes up to above the Full line, but I seem to go through gas so much quicker. Today for example, a trip that normally would cost me maybe $10 in gas, at the most, cost me almost $20. I haven't noticed any leaks, so perhaps this is related to the indicator light?
I purchased my first car and I am excited its a prius. I got lucky and got it below Kelly blue book. Its a 2010 IV, love the navigation and sound system. Thee car had a few minor issues when i bought it (ABS/Slip/Horn repaired). My only other issue (very minor) is the driver side door sill. The light unfortunately does not turn on when i open the door. After realizing this i took apart door foot panel, plastic door guard and the door sill itself. Immediately after removing the door sill.
I noticed that there was a significant amount of surface rust and the led circuitry had been compromised from water and appeared to be the root cause. So i thought i could fix it by removing the led light strip and replace it with some generic 12V blue led strip lighting. My thought was that i could cut the wires from the original led and tie into the existing OEM wiring. But when i plugged it in nothing happened; i tested the led lights i bought on a 9V and it works. So then i bought a multi-meter and tested the wires and i didn't get any reading. Am i doing anything wrong? Is there a particular fuse i need to check or any other lines i need to follow?
Hyundai Elantra 2011... My issue occurred just yesterday on a highway at speeds above 65 mph. I initially noticed my traction control light blinking upon light acceleration but with no noticeable loss in traction.
I continued with caution. About 5 minutes later, the light now was blinking regardless of the amount of acceleration. I found I could push the accelerator to the floor with no added power and my speedometer was dropping below 55 mph.
Being a busy highway, I had to very quickly get to the side of the road as my car dropped to dangerous speeds in the middle of the highway. Had I no shoulder or outlet, I could've been in serious trouble.
The situation resolved itself with a simple shut down, restart of the vehicle. But it makes me very concerned why the error in the computer occurred in the first.
I'm due to leave at 6am sharp on Friday morning for that pre-planned surprise 50th Bday celebration I've been talking about for my wife. This evening I get in the Elantra to pick her up and when I started the car it began to shake VIOLENTLY, like I was in a commercial dough mixer. WTF!?? I saw the check engine light was on so I shut it off immediately. Curiously, I had the car out earlier without incident.
I restarted the car and it ran smoothly this time, but the check engine light remained. Calling the dealer, I was able to get a 9am appointment for tomorrow morning. I don't have an OBD-II scan tool to check the codes, but based on the symptoms, and recent poor gas mileage.
Recently my 2011 Elantra GLS with ~32k miles started acting weird. The ECO light would only come on intermittently, and the ECU had a pending code stored (P0711).
Last weekend on the way back from a trip to Austin, the ECO light just stopped coming on completely. The next day the "check engine" light lit up. I also noticed the transmission was shifting harshly.
P0711 is a fault with the transmission temperature sensor circuit.
Took it into the dealer yesterday, they said it's a known issue and there's a Technical Service Bulletin ( TSB ) on it. They replaced the transmission temperature sensor and wiring harness for it. They also updated the ECU firmware to the most recent version. All under warranty, so cost to me is $0.00
If see the P0711 code and/or check engine light, just have the dealership take care of it.
So the check engine light on my '12 with 5K miles came on 2 days ago. Called to make an appointment at the dealer for tomorrow...and today it goes off. Is it relatively safe to fore go the appointment and see what happens? I don't think it was related to the gas cap.
View 2 RepliesI just noticed today that the top part of one of the LED strips on my 2014 Elantra was out. I don't even know how to change the bulbs for these or if it's even possible. The car only has 22k miles on it so it's kind of concerning that an OEM led would burn out this fast. Should I take it to the dealer and ask them to replace it or is this something I can do myself? Am I SOL?
View 5 RepliesI just bought a used 2011 Elantra GLS and am having some issues that the dealer cant resolve. What is happening is the the Check Engine light comes on and off. It will be on for a day or so, then go off for a day or so, so I am thinking its the gas cap. So I tighten that thing up as good as I can and pulled the negative battery terminal and problem solved. About 2 days later, and about 200 miles later on the same tank of gas, the light pops back on. So I call the dealer and took it there the next day.
On my way to the dealer, the light goes out. They try and pull the code, but the ECU is showing nothing. I asked if the ECU stores codes and I was told that when the light goes out on its own it clears the ECU of the code. Not sure if that is true, but that is what I was told. So I drive the car home. I fill the car with gas, drive about 100 miles and the light comes on. I call the dealer the same day, take it over, and on the way like the car knows it goes off and guess what? Dealer cant do nothing.
Now to make a long story longer, this is what I know. The car is not a CA car. It was sold in GA and was a prior rental. It ended up in CA and was sold as a certified pre owned from a Hyundai Dealer, I actually bought the car from a Mitsubishi Dealer and they dealer traded for this car (thats another long story) the carfax does show that it failed emissions but passed after several attempts. Which I thought was odd on a ULEV vehicle. Since I liked the car so much and the price was good, I bought it since it did pass smog eventually.
Once I get the car home, I do my usual thorough look. I clean everything to my standards. I am cleaning the engine compartment and took the engine cover off. 1st thing I noticed was the Spark Plug Coil Packs all the 10mm bolts that hold them in were loose and 2 of them were completely off!! So I decided thats odd, so I pulled the plugs out and they were the NGK's so just in case I put a brand new set of the NGK laser Iridiums back in and tighten everything up. Then I notice where the PCV valve is on the valve cover, the hose that goes to that to the intake tube does not look stock. The hose looks like fuel line hose that someone put on it and the clamps are not stock. So I am canvasing for OEM replacements of those parts now. Then when I was installing the mud guards, on the drivers side rear tire where the gas filler tube is I notice another non OEM clamp. So someone was messing with this area of the car too.
The car is averaging 26-28mpg's in the city and I have been getting 35-37mpg's highway so I don't think there is anything major wrong here. I believe that either the PCV valve hose is kinked and may be causing a fault, or that since it was a prior rental that people were over filling the gas tank and maybe blew the expansion valve in the gas tank, causing the fault. I have no way to prove this since the light goes on and off and clears the ECU every time I take it in.
Airbag light / sign come on/off frequently from some days. Regardless the car is moving or parked, seat belts on or not. It comes on then after a while or minutes go off, then back on after a while/time.
I have no accidents, no body repair as well as no mechanical or electrical issues. Except the rear PDC (i don't have front one) not giving me sound/function since some months and I don't care about it.
It's Elantra 2012 1.8 litters, with 84k kms on board.
2011 Elantra with approx 48500 miles on it. Took a trip to California this weekend. On the way home engine light came on. My reader says code B2AAA but can't find anything on it.
View 2 RepliesNoticed the trunk light extremely dim? I find the trunk light almost useless. I know the bulbs are usually dual filament, could one filament be burnt out?
Are there any cheap fleabay LED bulbs, any way to brighten the trunk space?
Just got home from work and had to return to my car. Noticed the dome lights did not come on when I unlocked the car with my key. Figured maybe i had turned them off by mistake. Tried to flip the switch over but nothing. Turned the ignition on and the lights came on. Turned them off and on and seemed fine. Turned off the ignition they turned off. I tried trouble shooting the issue. Locked the car with the fob and unlocked. No lights. Turned on and off the car and repeated. Still no lights.
View 12 RepliesI filled all my tires with air, and the light still won't go off. It's winter so I don't know if that comes into play, but all my tires are at 30psi....
View 29 RepliesMy 2013 Elantra twice now has almost overheated. About a month ago i had the software patch related to the cooling fan done. Since then, twice the temp almost hit max and the warning light came on. Both times i had driven it in 80 degree weather with 3 short trips to various stores. Both times the air conditioning seemed to stop working and the gauge started to rise to max. The second time i turned off the car and restarted it and everything returned to normal. If it happens again i will check to see if the cooling fan is on. It seems to me that turning it off and on to fix would be a software glitch. The car has 30000 miles on it.
View 5 RepliesI am just wondering how much mileage is left when the low gas warning light comes on? For my 2015 Elantra, the light comes on when the computer says there's about 100km left, but I don't know how accurate that is. I do keep track of my fuel economy, so it's simple match if I know how much gas is left in the tank. My owner's manual says the car has a 48 litre gas tank. When the warning light comes on and I fill it up at the gas station, it usually fills 39-40 litres before the "click". That would mean there's still 8-9 litres left before filling up. But is there actually 48 litres in the car at the "click" or is 48 litres just the complete maximum and the "click" comes on before that (e.g. a full tank is really only 45 litres compared to the stated 48)? What's the furthest you've driven with the low gas warning light on?
View 51 RepliesHaving bought my Elantra just a few days ago. One minor annoyance however - on the dash next to the clock is a very bright, and very orange "Passenger Airbag Off" light. I commute by myself, so this is constantly on, and is pretty jarring vs. the muted and otherwise blue dashboard lights. Is there any way to disable this notification?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2015 Hyundai Elantra Limited. Lately, the check Engine light comes on when I accelerate from a full stop and stays on for 3-5 seconds. It has also happened when I accelerate to get on the interstate (that just started today). There is no issue with the car accelerating. Everything else seems to be fine. It's just the Check Engine light that is freaking me out a bit. I've had the car since June so I'm not ready for any major issues. It started two days ago. I took the gas cap off and put it back on last night to see if that was the cause but it's still happening today.
View 2 RepliesI have the oem fog lights but I was just wondering if the driver side is slightly higher than the passenger side fog light.
Also what is the knows from the back of the assembly that is counter/clockwise.
What direction does this do? Left to right or up and down. And which way would be to lower the lens if it is up and down.