Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Left Parking Turn Lamp Not Working
Dec 10, 2013
Problem accrued since the 2012, after I installed OEM HID headlights. Everything was fine for a month or so, then I found out the left parking/turn lamp isn't working. I checked the bulb and it was OK, however I replaced it for a new one. However it didn't work. So I replaced left bulb from right side and vs versa. Didn't work. Then I replaced headlights on KDM aftermarket one with LED DRL and everything repeats...
However when I put back the halogen headlights, that problem disappeared, looks nothing happened. Now I want to put back my OEM HIDs, but expecting same problem again...what it can be?.
Dealer doesn't know anything, already I have asked him, they just put again a new bulb and thats it. Where and what should I look at first...
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I currently installed my HID's and I saw that I needed to have a relay for them so I made sure I bought that too. They work but when I turn on the car sometimes the left headlight won't turn on I have to turn them off and on in order for it to turn on. The relay is connected straight to the battery so I don't see why it won't turn on. I heard of some diy capacitors but didn't see the link on those old threads.
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Yesterday my rear driver side turn signal just stopped working on my 2013 elantra. I replaced the bulb and it still isnt working. The front driver side turn signal is flashing at hyper speed.
The passenger side front and back turn signals work fine. Im planning on bringing my car into tomorrow for an oil change and to get this checked out hopefully it isnt an expensive fix.
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Ok had my driver side front cv axle replaced. But not when only backing up and turning I hear and feel a popping sound. Happens when I turn left or right while backing out of garage or parking spot.
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I've had my R since late mid-summer, and one of the first things I noticed was this clunk sound when reversing into my parking spot and when making an aggressive sharp turn. Usually Left.
After reading multiple threads on this topic, I came to the conclusion that it was my sub-frame and the bolts need replacing. I got in a GB for the tyrol subframe stiffening kit after reading some good reviews/responses.
Today, on my day off, I finally went to a mechanic to get this installed. I just changed my mechanic, and this was my first visit to the guy hes had over 10 years experience at vw and just opened up his own shop. He did a great job, torqued the bolts to spec, made me drive around, do some pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear, reverse forward etc.
So hes about to pull the car back in to retorque and.... CLUNK...
Get in the car, reproduce the sound, get the car back up on the hoist... and at this point I'm expecting the worse. He takes my control arms off, checks the end links...
Brings the car down, and the clunking sound is louder than ever. It was the weathergaurd. When I turned on the wheel it was pulling it out and when I straightened the wheel it was popping it back into place, making a big clunk sound.
This was the exact sound that I was hearing, thinking it was my subframe. The bolts that came out were not stretched or bent out of shape like the ones you see in other reviews. They're actually in great shape. I'm glad I did the Tyrol kit and do not regret it, and I definitely feel a difference when I went into some aggressive turns.
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Passenger side parking lamp burned out in the headlight assembly. Have tried to pull rubber boot off the back of lamp assemply but I can't get my hand back in their to reach the parking lamp. If I have to pull the headlight assembly out from the car.
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The parking brake instrument cluster lamp is enabled by a small switch at the foot operated park brake mechanism. The switch is attached to chassis electrical ground. The switch has one wire attached to it. So when the switch is enabled it connects chassis ground to the wire therein turning on the cluster lamp. With the wire disconnected from the switch the lamp stays on. This tells me the wire is grounded somewhere. Brilliant deduction eh?
So here's my question. How/where that wire is routed? I lose sight of it approx. 2-inches from the switch where it disappears behind the brake mechanism mounting bracket. I plan to unbolt that bracket to see if that might be where the wire is being shorted to ground. But if it's not pinched there, where do I go from there?
(2001 Ranger, 4liter-2wd)
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The auto delay feature has begun to fail. Sometimes the parking lights stay on for at least an hour. Sometimes they stay on even after pressing the remote lock 2x and hear the chirp. So far have caught this prior to dead battery situation.
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Suddenly all these lights came on in a 2012 Elantra . Had at the dealer and they checked wheel speed sensors, wiring to sensors and said all those are ok and the abs module is bad. I replaced the module, bled the brakes and the exact same lights are still on with the same codes coming up. Tech is confused as I am.
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After taking my car to 2008 Lexus GS 350 AWD for an oil change and recall fix, I noticed my iJDMToy LED Parking Lights and Xentec HID for Fog Lamps have stopped working and just blink a very low light the entire time. The parking light starts working fine when the main head lights are off, but as soon as I turn them on, they start to blink again. The fog lamps just constantly blink at a low light level while on. Here is an example:
Light issues - YouTube
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Exactly where the parking lamp trailer tow relay is located on a 2002 F-250 Super Duty 4X4 CC 7.3L?
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I have a 2013 elantra limited with the tech package. Today I discovered that my parking lights or headlamps stay on after the car is turned off and the vehicle is armed. The interior blue lighting ( gear selection, push start ignition button, a/c selections, Eco button etc. ) stays on as well. I checked the fuses, but couldn't find anything that pertains to the parking lamps.
I usually run my lights in the drl or headlights position as I lost the auto feature when I installed my H.I.D's. And they usually shut off after a good 15 seconds.
I installed a powered compact subwoofer today and initially wired it to the same battery terminal as the H.I.D.'s but now have switched to another terminal.
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Just got my timing belt replaced along with the accessory belts and the water pump. I noticed that now my wheels screech when i turn the wheel all the way to the left. This happens mostly when i am pulling in or out of parking spots as that is the only time i need to turn my wheel all the way. I also noticed that when i first turn on my car for the first time in the day, i have high rpms. The rpm returns to normal after i put it in reverse or drive. I didn't have this problem before.
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The left Xenon lamp does not ignite. I change the lamp and it doesn't work. What is wrong??, the ballast??? In that case, what is the part number, or tell me where to find it The technician says that the module broken is the AFS Module. I think he is wrong. The faulty message in the car is "Luz de cruce del. izq. averiada" in somehow in English "Low beam left malfunction"...
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I have a 2003 hyundai elantra gt. All the lights and bulbs work, except for the rear left brake light. I've replaced it twice now, and used a bulb I know was good, so the problem is not a bulb. I checked the fuse, and the fuse is ok as well. When I measure at the bulb socket with an ammeter I get around 20 mA which I assume is too small and I assume there is a loose wire somewhere.
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I have a 2009 Elantra with 150k miles. It has recently started making a squeaking noise when I make left turns. It only does it when the car is moving and only when the turns are moderate to sharp (not on gentle turns). It seems to be coming from the engine bay but I can't really tell for sure. I had the steering column replaced last year. I haven't had any warning lights or adverse driving effects. I have posted a video on youtube with the noise.
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Went to leave for work this morning and released the parking brake and she wouldn't budge. Had to give it quite a bit of gas to finally move, along with a big popping sound. It was cold out, and haven't been using the PB in cold weather lately but did yesterday and this happened. Is there something that needs to be done with the brake? Thought I might have to get towed.
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I have a 85 s10 Blazer that the left turn signal does not work. The emergency flashers all work & the right turn signals are fine. When I turn left signal on lights come on but don't flash dash light is on as well.
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My 2004 Elantra is having electrical problems. I left the keys in the ignition one night, and now systems within the car do not work. The car no longer responds to remote controls (lock/unlock). The lights in the cabin do not work. The digital clock and radio displays are blank. The gauges are also reading incorrectly when I start the car (all of them move up and freeze for a few seconds at 4000 RPMs, 70 mph, Hot Engine, then come back down to correct readings).
The car starts fine, and I have checked all fuses. I tried letting the car run to charge the battery, and also tried a jump start from another car to recharge the battery.
Remember, this all started when I left the keys in the ignition over night
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I bought my Prius in November 2010. I replaced my headlights about three months ago when the right one went out. It went out again a few days ago. Then suddenly the diver side went out 2 days later. I also noticed that the right side parking light is out. The only lights that work are the high beams. I did check the fuses.
iPad ? HD ?
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I'm having problems with my left turn signal not working. It sounds like it's blinking super fast from inside the vehicle, the left turn dash light does not illuminate, and the outside front bulb does not blink. When I turn my emergency flashers on, the left front still doesn't work, but all others do. All the other bulbs are in working order. I searched through some old threads on this and couldn't find much other than to replace the bulb and bulb housing, which I did with no luck.
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