Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Jerking Feel With Transmission When Switching Gears
Jan 15, 2016
This is the second time I notice a problem with my 2014 elantra base model. The car only has 13000kms and today the car acted with a weird behaviour. This car has a manual 6 speed transmission.
Out of the blue the car jerked like it had a problem with the transmission switching gears which is weird as this is a manual.
The second time this happened the wife was driving and she said that she was in is third gear and she pressed the clutch and the brake at the same time and she felt a small jerking feel in the clutch like it didn't engage.
The problem is that I cant reproduce the problem. The car is still under warranty and I don't want to go to the dealer with a problem that I cant exhibit.
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My car gives off a pulsating vibration when I'm stopped (at a light, or in my driveway, for example). Its as if someone with huge bass is sitting next to me, but I'm alone. Its a weird "jerking" feel where I can feel my seat shake like a mini earthquake.
I've tried researching "rough idle" but don't fully understand it. Rough idle implies a clogged intake, which kind of makes sense I guess. I have something better than "my car kinda vibrates when I'm stopped".
Its a 2012 Elantra Limited, all stock everything, 53981 miles.
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So I recently leased a 2015 GS 350 AWD. The car is great. Love all the features. However, for some reason I feel that the transmission is a bit I rough when it switches gears. I feel the kick. I also noticed a hang up or delay when slowing down. I am coming off a infiniti q50 and the transmission on that car was nice and smooth. Maybe I'm just too sensitive.
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I have a 1996 bmw z3 and theres bunch of problems with itone the transmission makes makes a loud noise when switching gears usually first, also you press the gas and it takes couple seconds for the car to accelerate.also when foot is on the brake the car will surge forward or accelerate i was told by bmw that the value cover gasket needs to be replaced cause its leaking oil the air mass meter needs to be replaced i was told by one mechanic this could be why the transmission is having problems or it could be the transmission needs to be replaced ~ any truth to this that the air mass meter could be causing problems with the tranny?? also the os sensor needs to be replaced the check engine light is on....so my question is that could all of these problems be causing transmission issues. There are other problems as well including power issues with the battery, stalling mostly because i havent been driving it also the ac doesnt work but heat does.
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I don't like the way my transmission switches gears, is it possible to make the car change gears with 0.5 revs more then what it is right now... I feel like Hyundai only considered gas mileage for this car and didn't even think about the stress on transmission and engine...
I want the car to switch gears on higher revs then it is right now..
2012 Accent GS hatchback... Automatic transmission
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I recently bought a 2010 Hyundai Elantra GLS with about 40k on it. It was driving perfectly fine for about a week until the car would start jerking as the gears switched (I should note I switched the car out of ECO mode when I got it because I found it harder to accelerate with it on. The ECO mode keeps the transmission in higher gears to support fuel economy). I went to my shop and had the transmission fluid flushed and replaced. The car switches gears a lot better now, but another problem seemed to arise. About a mile or so after turning the car on and driving, it will switch into neutral for 3-5 seconds until I hit the gas hard enough for it to catch on and move. I've had multiple experienced people drive it around for awhile and they seem to find everything completely perfect with the car. Could it just be the way I drive, turning ECO mode off, or could something actually be wrong with the transmission or other parts?
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Well something I never thought would happen with only 14,313 babied miles on my 2013 silver Elantra. I was driving home from my mothers house and I thought I hit a pothole, next I stopped at a stop sign took off and it started shifting very rough through most of the gears. I drove it around for 30 minutes and it was pretty bad. I decided to get it towed, I don't feel like breaking down in it.
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Having issues with speed sensors on the transmission in their 2012 Elantra? My Elantra has 201K km. Transmission will intermittently shift harshly or sluggishly between all gears. If I turn the vehicle off and restart it it will go back to normal, sometimes for weeks at a time before another occurrence. Also after long periods of driving when the vehicle comes to a stop, say for instance at a red light, when brakes are applied the car will gently lunge forward or flutter. No engine codes.
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I've had 2 Elantra 2012 models 1 a gls the second a limited. As far as transmission issues both Elantra's from a cold start after allowing RPM's to idle down before taking off they both have started shifting hard going from 1st to second gear 1st car was around 8-9 k miles now 2nd started at 3 k miles. Since owning 2 cars same make same year same transmission and many times to dealer 1st car ended with Transmission replaced 2nd has now started doing the same thing they reset adaptive and next day did it again its now back at dealer waiting for them to diagnose again.
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Ok so my transmission feels loose, too much play between the coast and drive side of the gears. Makes enough noise now that my wife complained about it so I'm looking into taking it to the dealer. I pretty much expect them to pass this off and do nothing, but its getting worse especially in the last couple of months.
Noticed a lot of play in there gearbox? Can you hear the gears make noise as they shift from coast to drive side?
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My car has the wavy acceleration feel and sometimes hesitates a bit. It is way worse when the a/c is on. I wonder if this is a octane or sparkplug issue. On my old cruze 1.4t the gap was wrong from the factory. It came with all four gapped under .022 but the manual called for .028. Everyone gapped to .035 with great results. Not checked the sparkplugs yet?
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I have been getting this weird bumpy feeling when making left hand turns and even sometimes when going strait on the road. It does not seem to effect the breaking for acceleration of the car. This does not happen all the time and will start and stop without any change in driving.
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I have 2010 Camry Le 2.5l with 39600 miles on it. Bought used from my uncle. The car is pretty good but I don't like the nature of new 6 speed transmission. Its always downshifting and I can feel the drag feels like car is braking by it self. Is this transmission designed to do that? In my previous thread I post the same issue and got reply that I will get used to it but I already driven this car almost 2 months but I am not used to that drag/pull back feeling when ever I take my foot off the gas pedal. Is there any solution for this drag/pull feel?
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I just purchased my Elantra MD for just 2 years. Yesterday I went uphill (not steep) then decide to change from auto to manual, then I move the stick, it shows I am currently in gear 5 so i downshift to 4. After a few second the was a 'jerking' with 'thump' sound from the bay. My rpm came down slowly, i pushed the pedal but the rpm wont go up. it just glide. Shut down and up the engine changed nothing. When i try put reverse gear, it reversed fast as if i pushed the pedal, but i am not.
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My transmission started jerking into 2nd and out of 2nd when it shifts. It only has 20k miles on it and has not been driven hard at all. I heard of some people doing resets on the transmission,.
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The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
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I have an Elantra 2012 sedan GL and last year i tried installing HID's. It worked for a whole but then it stopped after. I learned that it wasn't getting enough power so then yesterday I bought a wiring kit to be able to wire my HID to tap to the battery to get more power. Everything was fine till I got to work but when I had to leave work., there was an issue. Whenever i switch the gear from park to drive or reverse or neutral. My car seems to jerk. And when I'm driving and it changes gears, it also jerks. Kind of the same thing how if your driving a manual car and you change gears wrong. This happens when my lights are off. But when i turn them on it then stops. And when i turn it back of it doesn't do it anymore.
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1995 Nissan Altima with 230,000 miles stalls while driving within the first 5 minutes and could immediately restart and was fine for the next 20+ miles. Well now she stalls when I try to gas her or when she switches gears (when going from 40 mph to 45 mph) and she needs a little time to rest before she will start up again. My dad seems to think she got a little low on oil at some point and the computer is freaking out. He has already tried replacing the fuel filter. This was my first car.
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I have a Sonata 08. I have recently installed a 740W amp and HID lights. During the Winter everything worked fine with just the amp. I then decided to install HIDs. I have a relay and a capacitor on them. but I have a weird power problem. Sometimes when I have my AC running the engine shuts off when I turn on my lights. It feels like a surge. I have to restart the car. Also while the AC runs the car feels a little shaky like it is switching gears while parked. What's going on?
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I haven't come on this site since I sold my Corrado a while back, but I am having issues with the wife's City Golf. It is a manual transmission and when switching gears and accelerating, the engine revs all over the map on the tach and is only partially engaged in gear, and then after bouncing around it settles down drives normal. But if you stomp on the gas again, the engine accelerates all over place again and it doesn't translate to power on the road. Is this a transmission problem or a fuel problem?
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So my 1998 Toyota Corrolla jumps and jerks after I switch gears. It only does it sometimes and I have seemed to narrow down that it does it mostly when the air conditioning is on and between 3rd and 4th gear if I don't have the RPMs just right. There is no smell nor any mettalic grinding. I'm thinking it's something to do with the transmission.
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