Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Intermittent Vibrations While Car Is Stopped
Apr 11, 2012
What could possibly be wrong with my new 2012 Elentra GLS. When i stop at red lights or at stop signs the car starts to shake a bit. The vibrations can be felt in the cabin specially around the dash board area. I wouldn't have noticed it if it was same on all stops, however, it seems intermittent. The car would be dead quite and motion less on one red light while on the other I can clearly feel the vibrations. I have taken it up with the dealership and mechanics there are clueless about it. One reason given was that it could be the inline 4 engine causing that vibration, or, a car system kicking in e.g. air con. that would cause stress on the engine.. i frankly thought it could be caused due to clutch not engaging properly..
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I have a 2016 Elantra Sport which I purchased in Sept. I have noticed an intermittent beeping (5-10 min. apart) when the car is stopped, not running, in my garage. Can't find anything in the manual about it. Is this a security warning, or what?
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Is it normal to experience road vibrations in the pedal and floor? I've owned my car for about a month now (it's a used 2011) and it has brand new tires on it, but the past week or two it seems these road vibrations have worsened.. it's like I can feel the texture of the road on my feet. If I reach a freshly paved area it goes away like magic.
Is this indicative of a problem that I could have the dealer investigate? Or is this a "characteristic" of this car? I came from a 97 Corolla, with the exact same tires on it, and it did not have this problem at all. Then again, it was also much much quieter going over bumps too...
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I am new to Hyundai. I just bought a barely used 2011 Elantra GL Sedan - Auto. I notice that the ride is absolutely terrible - especially the rear which has from what I understand torsion bar suspension. (Didn't we stop using those on WWII Jeeps) Anyway I digress.
I notice in city any pot hole is jarring in the front and hoppy in the back. On the highway I feel like the back end gets air any time I hit a moderate pump at speeds above 90kmh (55mph). I noticed what others have noticed too, slight fishtailing or rear vibrations when braking.
Is there an issue that I'm unaware of - is this normal or is there something broken/loose. I push on the rear like I would test a normal suspension and it doesn't bounce more than once but if I hit a bump while driving it bounces three or four times?
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I have had some clunking in the front end for a couple months now. It is intermittent and seems to show up mostly in cold weather at startup. It is still there in warmer weather, but it is much harder to replicate and occurs less. Sometimes it also sounds like the dash is rattling. I have felt around on the dash while the noise is present, and nothing appears to be vibrating. Once the car warms up, issues seem to go away. I have taken it to the dealership which cannot find a problem, and I have not been able to replicate the issue for them. Sway bar links have been replaced due to being worn out, but did not fix the above issue.
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For me it happens after I have driven the car for a while (engine is up to temp). I will turn the car off to go into a store or something. Then when I drive off again the revs will hang for several seconds. When this happens without my noticing it obviously makes for a violent shift into second gear. Once it does it 1 occasional rev hang car behaves normally. I know the revs drop slower when the engine is cold, but this is something totally different.
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My friend's 2012 Elantra's driver's door lock has started acting up intermittently. Sometimes the door locks, sometimes it doesn't. It won't do it on command so it can't be taken to the dealer to be looked at. Has this problem been cropping up on the 2012 models? He has had it for almost 2 years and has about 22000 miles.
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I've been having a problem over the past month with my base 2014 Elantra (33k miles). Sometimes when I go to start the car there is a complete loss of electrical power. One of a couple of scenarios will occur:
1) Key Fob will not unlock/lock doors:
*There is no power to anything (no dash lights, interior lights, car won't crank).
2) Key Fob will unlock/lock doors:
* Either all interior lights will be on and when I attempt to crank everything shuts off (no dash lights, interior lights, etc)
* Or Clock and radio are reset, car starts fine
* The battery checks out as far as voltage/charge.
* There are no visible fuse issues.
* There are no check engine lights.
I have had it in the dealer the past 4 days and they haven't been able to reproduce the issue. So far I have been able to eventually get it to start by opening and shutting doors, which would lead me to believe it is a loose connection somewhere, but again the dealer hasn't been able to diagnose anything.
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I'm going to take my Elantra in to get it checked. My Elantra is a 2013, got it in March. Over the last few weeks, I would say, on 4 days or so there has been a STRONG exhaust smell. No smoke, nothing else but a smell. If I'm pulling into the garage with no idling, just pull in and park, I get out and the smell in the garage is very strong. I have to leave the garage open for at least an hour if not more to air it out. The cab ends up having a light smell inside the next day still.
If I'm parking outside when I get out I can still smell it, but not quite as strong, because I'm not in an enclosed area. I don't think it's an exhaust manifold leak, because I don't hear the popping. My best guess is it would be in the tail pipe area pre-catalytic converter, or in the catalytic converter if it is in fact an exhaust leak.
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My concern is I have some intermittent clicking/clunking noise. What causes it is if I start out whether fwd or rev. Or if I am going slow in 1st gear and I let off the gas to slow down or press the gas to speed up (btw 1000rpms and 2000rpms) I was told this noise is the clutch engaging or disengaging, which doesn't make sense because when it happens the clutch is fully engaged.
I have had this noise before 2X and there were things that were loose, which were tightened up and the noise went away. This time local dealer told me sound is normal and to keep an eye on it. To me it doesn't sound right cause its noises I didn't notice before.
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I have a trunk light that seems to work only half the time.... maybe less. It is a 2013 elantra limited and i have brought it to the dealership and had them look at it and was told that it worked for them every time.... would having stuff in the trunk cause an issue, possibly they emptied it out and i keep stuff in it? Looking for a wiring schematic or know where or how the switch operates?
(Also was intermittent with stock bulbs and replaced with the exledusa 6k LED's and still same issue... should i take that out as well and put stock light back in when going to the dealership incase they try to blame it on the LED? can they?)
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My 2013 Elantra is experiencing intermittent power shorts where all power (electrical is lost). Had to open door with manual key; clock resets and radio pre-sets lost.
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I have a 2011 Elantra with about 18,000Km on it. I'm now hearing intermittent high pitch squealing when driving below 40km/hr, seems to be coming from the right side but it's hard to tell.
It tends to go away when I apply the brakes or accelerate. I doubt it's the brake pads.
I remember some time ago while servicing the car at the dealership after the first two years, they recommend to have the brakes cleaned. I opted to not do as I thought it was a cash grab.
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About 95% of the time our 2012 Elantra runs great. But then 5% of the time, it hits us with this intermittent starting problem. It will crank but just won't turn over. It really feels like it's just not getting any fuel. This has happened intermittently for the past 2 years. Every time we take it in, the dealer can't replicate the problem. It starts right up for them. The car will behave well for a while but then inevitably, it acts up again - usually at 6:30am when we need to get to the hospital for work.
Here's a video of it in the act : [URL] .....
It's not the shift interlock - it wouldn't even crank if it were that.
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4 cylinder car engine that doesn't shake like a tractor at idle ? I've got a 3 cylinder tractor that idles smoother.
I like my Elantra except for the tire/road noise and the intermittent BAD vibration at idle. It shakes the whole car. Odd that it doesn't do it all the time. AC seems to make it worse......sometimes. I think I can fix the road noise with different tires but fear that the dealer is going to say:" Nothing wrong. They all shake like that at idle."
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Have had some issues with some intermittent clunking when I shift or let off the gas. It only clunks when shifting from 1-2 or 2-3 or when I am btw 1500-2500 rpms and let off the gas to coast a bit. There are times when it won't clunk at all or it does it all the time, I can shift fast or slow doesn't matter. The dealership I bought the car from couldn't find anything wrong on my last service. Also when I put the clutch in sometimes I hear a bit of a clunk as well. Also I notice moving the shifter from gear to gear when shifting feels very notchy, but most of the times its smooth.
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2013 Elantra (40k miles) just started having intermittent high engine rev while driving at low speeds (30-40 MPH). The rev last 1-3 seconds no engine codes showing up. The transmission does not feel like it is slipping.....
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I get significant vibrations when stopped at a signal or stop sign. I don't get them in park or neutral. I ran Seafoam through the car once and it went away for about a day and then came back.
Now the catch. Had several shops check the motor mounts. All said they were fine. Could it still be the motor mounts?
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We have a 2013 Elantra. This evening we washed the car and when we started up again, the heater / ac fan inside the cabin would not blow air. I looked at the fuse panel by the driver's left knee and checked the 3 fuses labeled 'blower'. They were all fine. There are a couple of fuses under the hood that are also labeled 'blower' but I'm not sure which of them might be the one I'm looking for?
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Not sure it is a problem. In fact i don't think it is, but I noticed it the other day when I felt a slight jerkiness when reversing.
The ECO quickly blinks whenever I hold the break down while not moving, but when I let off the break it doesn't flash. Normal?
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Over the past few months I'd noticed an intermittent grinding noise coming from my left front wheel at low speeds. I took it in once but it refused to play along so I finally managed to catch it on camera and let the dealership listen to it. They booked me for today, saying it sounded like a wheel bearing (to which I agreed) and I dropped her off around ten, not expecting it to cooperate for the second time.
I got a call from the dealer around 2 PM saying that they were able to duplicate the noise and that when they took the left front wheel off and ran the car on the lift with the rest of the wheels off the ground, the noise went away. Even stranger still, when they put the wheel on the tire balancing machine and spun it, gronch, gronch...gronch, gronch....gronch, gronch. It was coming from inside the wheel! I gave them permission to dismount the tire from the wheel and about ten minutes later I got another call saying they'd found a handful of tiny hard rubber balls inside the mounted wheel/tire assembly that were rolling down the inside of the wheel and causing the grumbling at low speed.
Here's the kicker: they were in all four wheels! The tech even saved them for me so I could take a look and they don't look like anything mass-produced; some are larger than others, some are round and some are oval-shaped but when I dropped one on the glass advisor desk, it made a very clear 'Clink!'.
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