Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Idles Longer (and More Often) - Reduced MPG
Apr 18, 2012
I know it is obvious that a car that idles longer (and more often) will have reduced MPG, but I never thought or knew it to be so impactful. Well it is. I had been averaging around 365-375 miles per tank with my car having had less than 7000 miles. However, recently I installed some car audio components that has resulted in me tweaking the car's sound much more often via laptop. Due to the heat down in here in FL, I most often tweaked my system with the car running so that i didn't sweat to death.....seriously.
I probably have been idling (i.e., tweaking) for the past 3 weeks for about about 20-30 minutes every other day and my tanks have gone down significantly to a little less than 300 miles per tank (ie < 25 mpg).
So, while it is a no brainer to not idle for long periods, in my opinion it is especially true for our 2011 + Elantras. Curious to try a tank of gas with idling at an absolute minimal.
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I have noticed on my 2011 Elantra, that the heated seat no longer remains on. I turn it on, level 1 or level 2, and a second later it turns off.
This only happens for the driver seat, passenger seat works fine. Why this might be?
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I've only had the car a month, and it's happened maybe three times now. I turn the key, and it takes twice as long as usual to start, about 5 full seconds of the engine cranking before it ignites. I think each time was after I had driven the car an hour or two before (when I'm heading home after an outing). Most of the time, the car starts fine. What's going on?
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I just recently purchased a 2013 Elantra Coupe, and the Engine Start Stop button will not light up anymore. The small LED above the "Engine Start Stop" lettering still lights up blue or amber if it's in ACC or ON mode, but the lettering itself no longer lights up.
I'm not sure if it's supposed to stay lit while driving, but I noticed it started to flicker at various rates, and then eventually it stayed lit. Now, it's not lighting up at all. I'm wondering if there's a fuse anywhere that could be associated with this or anything I could check myself before taking it to the dealer. I haven't had a single issue getting the car to start with the button, just wondering what could be causing the lettering on it to not light up any longer.
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Today I noticed that my MPG was reduced to 43.1 in the rain. I have total 1500 miles on the car with mpg of 49.1.
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I have a 2010 Chevy malibu LT with 120000 miles. And today while I was driving my engine disabled and there was a message of reduced engine power. After letting it sit I turned the key and nothing happens all the lights and things come on but the reduced engine power and engine disabled shows up. The car won't crank up. Earlier that day I had my engine coolant temperature sensor replaced. What is going on or what needs to be done? I am getting so frustrated with this car.
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Tonight I was driving my 2010 Type 2 Prius. I had been driving for about 6 miles in 85 degree heat (after the car was parked all day at work) on the freeway at 60mph when the "check hybrid system" warning came on and my speed reduced to about 40. I pulled over and called a tow truck. After I was towed to a dealer about 25 miles away, the car started up without the "check hybrid system" light coming on. However, the check engine light did come on. My car is low mileage with only 31,000 miles on it.
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I have an 01 elantra that idles erratic while in park. Also when i remove plug wires from the number one and three cylinders it will smooth out which doesn't seem to make sense to me because they are being fired from different coils, but if i pull two or four it continues to rev. Could this be a timing issue, I have been told that it could be the IAC as well as the cruise control module, what was it?
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So, among other things my 06 Limited is acting a little weird when I start it up. If it's cold, as in hasn't run in a few hours, not so much temp, it idles really high for a while. I wait for it to come down under 1000 before rolling out. It makes a funny noise too. Sort of a tick-tick-tick with a little whine behind it. What it could be? How much it'd be to get it fixed? I'm past my 100,000, 107,000 to be exact. Of course the issues pop up after the warranty is up!
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I have a 05 Hyundai Elantra 2.0L engine(Manual) thats been acting funny. There's a couple issues im having with it.
1. Not matter how far the gas pedal pushed down RPMs wont go over 2,500
2. Car surges and jumps back and fourth sometimes.
3. Idles around 900rpm
4. Sometimes when I take off I'm able to get around 40 mph, and thats where it tops out at.
5. Shifting into 1st gear feels a little spongy
6. Also it can go all the way into 4th gear without dying and the top speed will only be at 10mph
Things I've done so far.
1. Compression test cylinders all came back fine
2. Replaced TPS
3. Checked to make sure exhaust wasn't obstructed
4. I got a stethoscope and listened for the ticking for the fuel injectors and also got some fuel injector cleaner.
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Tonight the wife when she got home set the car's alarm off and after she turned it off none of our remote starter fobs will function (lock, unlock, alarm..)
The factory fobs still work fine.
Am I stuck going back to Hyundai to get the remote starter fobs fixed ?
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Elantra has set for a couple months. Wife totaled her other car so is gonna start driving this again. Well any ways wen the car sets and idles it starts to overheat. When driving it never gets hot. New thermostat and fluids...
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I have a 2006 elantra. I just got it back from having a new clutch put in. My passenger side headlight, low beam, no longer works. I tried two different new bulbs and it still doesn't work. All the other lights on the car are working, including the high beam and running light on the passenger side. Is there something that would have been disconnected when they replaced the clutch? Is there something I should check?
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Alright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
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02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
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Since the weather has dropped a little I was wondering if it's normal that the car sitting on in the drive way, on, would idle up a little just before shut down. I mean shutdown to use the battery not shut down turn the car off. It idles fine for the warm up stage then just before it shuts down to be available for ev mode it spins up a little.
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I own a 2010 Seat Leon 1.4 TSI 125hp 6 speed manual with 20000km (same engine, transmission, electronics as a Golf - 1.4TSI 123hp or Audi A3 - 1.4TSI 125hp, in North America you can consider it a poor mans VW or Audi, i prefer Audi LOL).
Ever so often maybe once a month when the engine is cold (usually during cold weather and in the morning) the following happens:
I crank the engine and get a really rough idle that's about 300-500rpm... the engine struggles and then shuts off after about 5-10 seconds and while this is happening the CEL an EPC light are on. after the engine turns off by its self, the next time I start the engine it works perfectly.
I have taken the car to a certified VW workshop since its under warranty (4 years) several times and they have found no fault codes. The second time I took the car they flashed the ECU to the newest software. The other day (Fourth time) after the above happened again.. they hooked up the car to the diagnostics tool in front of me to prove there are no fault codes stored. I left the car for testing and they came up with nothing.
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Im using my rear heat for the first time since I purchased my new GX premium, it seems that the rear heat takes forever to finally get warm and its really never hot even at the highest temp. I think overall I find that the gx takes awhile to start pumping out hot air compared to my RX, but I don't think its normal for the front to be blowing hot and the rear to still be cold. I already took it Lexus and they said it was all working fine.
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I brought my 2012 Prius in on St. Patrick's Day for routine scheduled maintenance and was informed about the recall--I hadn't even known yet. I was told it would just take an additional 45 minutes for the software update--no big deal. Except that it was.
They said the computer that was hooked up to my car crashed during the update, and my car computer would no longer recognize the hybrid system. They had no explanation for the crash and said their computer had a full battery, etc. so it didn't make sense, but they would call Toyota to find out way to do and in the meanwhile I would have a rental.
It is April 7 and I still have the rental. They said the part needed, a new computer, is on backorder. They hope it will be in by the end of April but there are no guarantees.
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My 2012 idles after start up on a warm day at 1200rpm which seems high to me. Should it be lower?
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I hear this loud grunt noise coming from engine area or brake area at random times, not all the time. I can feel the grunt, sounds bad.
1. Coming to a complete stop hard, grunt.
2. After shutting car off, stepping out of the car and 3sec later GRUNT.
3. Idling sometimes it grunts out of no where.
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