It is 10 degrees now (-12 C). I softly engaged the clutch and noticed the car wasn't moving. I tapped on the gas lightly and the car was trying to move, but couldn't. I finally gave it a lot of gas and there was a huge POP sound. When I park my car, I leave e-brake engaged. Are brakes suppose to stick that bad in cold weather? The Pop sounded like a .45 Pistol!!
View 9 RepliesI just noticed during my recent road trip on vacation that my interior rear deck (behind seat) is very sticky to the touch. Had the car about 6 months but never noticed until I tossed a gray fuzzy blanket on it and saw a lot of dust and fuzz from the blanket was sticking to it.
View 31 RepliesI have a fleeting issue that of course only happens on rare occasions. I have a 2011 Elantra Limited. I drive it pretty easy. On three different occasions, when I really had to get on it to get into traffic, I have left a huge plume of smoke. From what I can tell it's darker in color, but it's been usually evening so I can't really tell. If I punch it again, it's fine. I have mentioned to the dealer each time and they say nothing shows amiss.
View 229 RepliesMy car just turned 20k miles. I haven't abused it and rarely tach it over 4k. I needed to cross a lane in heavy traffic so I put my foot into it, it tached up to maybe 6grand, dropped a gear or so and out the tail pipe comes a huge cloud of smoke. I mean huge. Looked like it burnt a quart of oil in a second. I had just changed the oil a few days before. Mobil full syn. I know the lvl was correct because i checked it the day after i changed it.
View 10 RepliesHave a steering problem with my 2011 Elantra. While driving "straight" and maintaining a center location in the lane, the steering wheel will develop (for lack of a better word) a sticky feeling. When you try to move the wheel beyond the sticky spot it causes you to overcompensate. Hyundai and two different dealers look at me like I am nuts. They test drive it but don't test it properly to feel the problem, they will test it by changing lanes and making turns. The problem is not always present and only happens when driving straight and when you move your hand slightly left and right to stay center in the lane.
View 168 RepliesOk, here's the situation... (Elantra GLS - Automatic)
I was at a 4-way stop sign. No other cars were around so I accelerated. Then suddenly, I hear and see a car coming at me REALLY fast, and well, I panicked. I floored the throttle (almost literally), and I heard something popping or maybe it was a farting sound... It happened so fast that I don't remember clearly...
Then behind me was a HUGE cloud of smoke behind me. I mean really, it covered up the whole street. It was 10 PM, so I couldn't really tell what color it was, but it seemed to be white... So I turned off my car. Checked the engine, no smoke from the engine. I started it up again, and instead to revving to about 2000 rpm at start up like it always does, it only went to about 1000, and more smoke was flushed out the exhaust.
I was close to home, and with no 24-hour mechanic shop around me, I drove home. As I drove home, I had quite a bit of smoke trail behind me which scared me through out the whole 2 minutes of driving. I got home, and I checked the exhaust again, but there was no more smoke. However, a burning smell lingered around the exhaust.
I'm not sure if this is the proper operation of the disc brakes because all my cars in the past were front disc and rear drum. A search turned up nothing useful so here I am.
To me, the sensation I'm having is the rear brakes are activating before the front. I sense the rear going down before the front. I don't hear any squealing or grinding. I also don't feel any vibration while braking. Perhaps it's a sensory illusion? Or is this the normal operation of disc brakes?
Well this makes the 3rd time I am going to have to take my car into the dealer because of the right rear brakes. I had a guy pull up to me yesterday and tell me that I had smoke coming out of my right rear wheel, I pulled over nd the rotor had a slight blue glow to it and the caliper was smoking. This is starting to get old, I wonder when the lemon law kicks in on something like this?
View 8 RepliesBrought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
Started a month ago. Whenever I go over a bump, steep incline, or even just turn right (not left) the car makes this creaking, almost groaning, sound from the right rear.
Hard to isolate it since when I push down on the right rear from the outside I can't hear anything. Gonna head into the dealership to see what they think this week but it's always a fight trying to get them to do in warranty service .
I have noticed only recently a strange "ping" sound that is coming from the rear driver side wheel. The sound is exactly what two pieces of rebar sound like hitting together. The car only makes the sound once while slowing down at around 3mph and once again while accelerating at the same speed. The should can not be heard under heavy breaking however. I have jacked the car up and pushed on the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock and 3 and 9 oclock to see if it was a bad wheel bearing and it was not. It is a 2010 Subaru STI with 45000 miles. I am wondering what this could be.
View 5 RepliesAt 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)
When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)
However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.
Trying to figure out the best option to remedy some braking issues. One is the squishy pedal feel. It does not happen all the time, but sometimes I will notice that the pedal is "sagging" for lack of a better term, and when I let up on the pedal and press again, the point of action/effect seems to be much higher.
As for the pads, I'm also curious if new ones will work with the grab I've been feeling after leaving the car outside for a few days. I have completely stopped using my e-brake because if it rains or is wet to begin with, the pads seem to stick (I believe) to the rotors and I have to practically to a low rpm launch to get them unstuck. Then I hear a sort of bumpy feel like there is pad material stuck to the rotors. It usually fades after some highway driving and decent braking. I could have sworn it happened the other day with NO e-brake engaged though, so I really don't know what is going on.
This one should be easy but I feel the need to check. Lately the brakes on my GMC sierra pick up truck has been sticking. Not badly but ever so little. Seems to happen most when it has been parked and when i put it into drive it doesn't move. If I let it sit there for a moment the brakes release and it does just fine after that. If I hit the gas and go I get the same result. what do you think? Calipers??
View 12 RepliesReplaced break pads, calipers and master cylinder...still breaks sticking parts were replaced 3 weeks ago and are worn already.
View 2 RepliesMy car is a 2011 BMW 328i Coupe, currently at 24K mi. Recently i found my cars brake pedal get sticky after Ive applied the brakes from time to time. But nothing server. My routine schedule maintenance will be coming up soon, so i am just wondering what could be the probable cause. Could it be the brake fluid?
View 6 RepliesBought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
I just got a used 06 elantra gls. The drivers side lock seems like it doesn't have enough power to unlock its self when I try to use the power locking. It unlocks fine with the key.
View 4 RepliesI was driving down a 2 lane road doing the speed limit and I found myself behind a car going much slower than the limit. It is one of those roads where every once in awhile the double yellow line is dotted so you can pass.
I finally got to the point where I could pass as there was no oncoming traffic, so I turned left to pass the guy, floored it, the tranny started to kick down into passing gear and then the car sputtered, didn't accelerate and blew out a huge white cloud from the exhaust and the cel light flashed on and off. The cloud was something like you would see in a James Bond film to get rid of cars following you. All of the cars behind me had to stop or slow up because you couldn't see. I didn't realize that until I looked in the rear view mirror. I thought the car just sputtered, I didn't even realize about the cloud until I looked back.
As I've been doing work on the rear struts I noticed drag on the rear wheels when the car is jacked up. It's definitely the brakes. At first I dismissed it thinking it was the rotor going out of alignment when the tension from the wheel lug nuts is released (I don't have the retaining screws on the rotor). I can turn the wheels by hand but there is definite resistance.
However, yesterday I asked someone to listen to the rear wheels while the engine was off and the car was moving slowly. They could hear the sound of pads against the rotors. There is no smell nor do I notice any extra heat.
The caliper pistons move very easily and I'm fairly confident they're not stuck. The rotors and pads are in great shape. So I'm assuming it's an issue with the parking brake cable. But, I don't even know where to start. The parking brake seems to work fine otherwise.
I have Elantra GT 2006 with traction control and ABS, disk brakes. The rear right wheel is overheating. Checked if sliding pins are moving. They were fine. With working engine if brake pedal is pressed wheel does not move, pedal is released and wheel can rotate. Three days ago I replaced rear right caliper together with the caliper hose. It did not work. After driving in city for 15-20 minutes right rear wheel will be hot to the point that you cannot hold your hand (left rear and front ones are barely worm). I tried to remove the fuses for ABS and it did not work.
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