Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Hood Won't Open When Pulling Latch Lever
Apr 28, 2014
Went to pull on the hood latch lever and nothing happened. It almost appears that the cable/ball has either popped or broken off the latch. While pulling on the lever you can hear a sliding noise at the latch.
I removed the bottom panel under the bumper but no support there as the latch is covered and not accessed from that location. There is a slight gap from the front under the hood and above the logo but how to get around to this.
How to at least open the hood from the outside. Remember, the cable won't release.
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My hood has ceased to pop open when I pull the latch from the interior release. I removed the panel to see if the cable came undone from the release lever but it is still intact. From what I can tell, the cable seems to be snapped in the middle. I brought the car to 2 different mechanics, both said they would have to do damage to get under the hood. But I've read online and it seems other people are able to do it.
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I have been having trouble trying to release the lever under the hood on my 2009 Jetta. the interior lever seems to be working but when I attempt to depress the hood lever it won't budge! I like to check my oil on a regular basis and I have never had this challenge before. I'm also worried that if I am able to release it that I will not be able to secure it afterwards, rendering my vehicle inoperable. I am strongly considering just taking it for an oil change and "springing" the dilemma on the garage.
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I have a 1997 Ford Econoline conversion campervan that I don't use very often. I need to open the hood to jump start the battery. Last time I opened the hood I did not notice anything wrong with the hood or the hood release latch inside the cab. Now when I pulled the hood release latch inside the cab, nothing happens to the hood at all (the hood does not open at all).
Is there a way I can open the hood or do I need to tow it to my mechanic?
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I have have a 98 Passat 1.8T manual sedan. How to open the hood when the latch - that small tab that you pull - is 'loose' and it doesn't work?
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I drive a mk4 GTI 2004 Stage 1 software. Just got home from being at sea for the last three months and my hood latch won't open. It pops exposing the tab, but the safety lock won't release the hood. I tried putting my hand in and pulling the the mech that the latch attaches too but it wont budge. I then tried removing the grille to have a better view and more access, but it doesn't look like its possible to remove the grille without popping the hood. Anyway, how to tackle it, maybe if there's a way to remove the grille without breaking it or getting from under it.
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My son's 2007 Honda Civic coupe hood won't open. There's no resistance when pulling the hood release. Either the cable is broken or disconnected from the latch.
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I have a 1997 Ford Econoline conversion campervan that I don't use very often. I need to open the hood to jump start the battery. Last time I opened the hood I did not notice anything wrong with the hood or the hood release latch inside the cab. Now when I pulled the hood release latch inside the cab, nothing happens to the hood at all (the hood does not open at all). Is there a way I can open the hood or do I need to tow it to my mechanic?
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I have a 1995 Ford F-250 7.3 liter Diesel. I can't open the hood with the Hood Latch. It opens to the safety latch but I can't fully unlatch the hood.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-150, and when I pull the hood release, the hood won't open unless I'm holding on to the hood release handle while pulling up on the hood. I've been trying to figure out how to adjust it but I can't find any information on it. The cable isn't broken, as I can see the cable move, it just doesn't seem to move enough to open the hood release. How I can fix/adjust it so it will work? Do I need to adjust it at the handle, or at the actual release under the hood?
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The latch thing that you pull on to pop the hood has broken, any other way to open the hood up?
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I have 2013 elentra just about a year old, (Took delivery june/2012). Recently some thing happen on the Shift lever, can't shift to "R" for back in parking, Shift to "N" is OK.
Some time it can't shift out from PARK to "R" or "N" or "D" ... Under any of this situation,car engine would not start.
Sound like the SHIFT LOCK did not release properly, or the Brake paddle position switch input did not send to Computer for engine Start.
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I have a 2012 Elantra Limited with about 36000 Miles. I purchased this car used with 12000 miles. I commute to work about 90 miles round trip a day mostly highway. I usually average about 33 or 34mpg. Recently, my mileage has fallen to 22 or 23 mpg and I have noticed my car having problems shifting. When accelerating normally, 1st - 3rd shift normally. Once I get into 4th, the car won't shift into 5th unless I manually do it with the gear lever or play with the throttle. If I just accelerate it will go all the way up to over 6000 rpm before it will shift. There are no problems with down shifting. Once it gets into 5th it will shift into 6th normally. There are not warning lights on and it doesn't always do it so of course when I need to recreate it I can't.
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I have a used 2010. Came home to my car rifled through (I left it unlocked) door not completely closed, 12v battery dead because of interior lights. Jumped it. Got it into ready mode. Thought I left it on enough to charge the battery. Locked it. Unlocked and locked it with the fob... no problem.
Came back later in the day, now dead and locked. Car didn't come with manual key. Very expensive to replace so i skipped it. Is that now my only solution without damaging the car? How to open the hood so I can jump it?
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For a few years now my 2012 elantra has been pulling to the right. I got new tires and a alignment yesterday and it hasn't seemed to fix the problem. Now I think it must be a bigger problem than just the alignment. What the problem could be? I will probably take it into the dealer and see what they say.
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I have a couple of questions. Been driving for about 4 weeks now. Just took it to Hagerstown, MD yesterday and noticed something odd when driving up the mountains. (We have lots of mountains to travel up and down out here in western MD) When I would get to 3k RPMs, I would notice something strange, kind of like a pulling or tugging. (Think of it like a circle with a line somewhere no hit. Every time you hit that line, there is a little vibration or tug, kind of like if you have a rock or something stuck in your tire and you hear a noise every time you hit that spot on the tire against the road).
However, it only occurred when going up the mountain at 3k RPMs. If it kicked up to 4k RPMs, it didn't happen. It I was below 3k RPMs, it didn't happen. Is it normal? Is it related to the Active ECO system? I didn't try running it uphill without cruise control on. Could it be because I had cruise control in use? Just wondering if this is normal. I was reading the manual and it did state that you would notice a difference when Active Eco was engaged when going uphill as the engine would be a little less powerful or less quick to gain power. Also, what is "sport mode"? The plus and minus signs to the right of D on the gear shift?
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We have a 2012 Elantra Elite 6spd manual and ever since we bought it (from new) there has been an irritating noise like a graunch or short vibration that happens (sometimes but not all the time) when we are pulling away from a stand still e.g. traffic lights, parking spaces, etc in first gear.
It does not always do it and seems to be only in first and sometimes reverse but rarely. We have flagged this numerous times with the dealer (all recorded in their records), although until now they claimed they could not repeat the problem and given it is intermittent I will give them the benefit of the doubt but only just.
Finally I managed to get them to take it in today and have a look at the problem after taking a technician for a drive to demonstrate the issue and show how it does not matter if the car is under load or not it. I think it sounds like something rubbing/vibrating and coming from the cabin and not the engine bay.
The dealer has concluded that none of the exhaust TCB's are the cause and they have concluded that it is a "glazed" clutch plate or flywheel (without actually looking at it). The upshot is that the dealer says Hyundai say it is not covered by the warranty and if I want them to strip it down and have a look I have to pay for it. I have never heard of this phenomenon and in all the manual cars I have had if something goes wrong in the clutch or bearing area the noise is usually constant.
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Just curious-- After several hours of not running, I open the driver door and hear a pump of some kind start up and run under the hood. Runs for a while then stops. How long seems to depend on how long the car has sat there, but about 30 seconds max. What it is?
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After my steering wheel replaced I've noticed that new wheel is not centered. I was way too much to the right when driving straight, so I went back to dealer and ask him to fix it. He said that he fixed it and even recalibrated steering wheel (or something) and should be OK. So here is my question. The wheel is now a bit to much to the left (see picture). Do you think it is acceptable (within the specs) and it cannot be adjusted better? Should I go back and complain or I am just to much paranoiac.
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I had problems this morning opening my hood, the latch was real tight so pulled it and it released but not all the way. I tried opening the hood but it's stuck and won't even closed either. It's there a trick or some other lever I'm missing? I never had to do it before.
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When I look under the hood of the Elantra and then try to close it, it seems to not want to close. I usually have to lift the hood up and let it fall which kind of worries me will break something...
or I have to put what seems to be a lot of pressure on the hood with my arms and hands to close it...to the point where I feel the metal of the hood bend slightly inwards and then pop out to its regular shape.
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