Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Heater / AC Fan Stopped Blowing Air
Dec 22, 2013
We have a 2013 Elantra. This evening we washed the car and when we started up again, the heater / ac fan inside the cabin would not blow air. I looked at the fuse panel by the driver's left knee and checked the 3 fuses labeled 'blower'. They were all fine. There are a couple of fuses under the hood that are also labeled 'blower' but I'm not sure which of them might be the one I'm looking for?
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It worked fine and then just stopped blowing on any speed. The #303 relay was swapped with another and made no difference. The #101 40 amp fuse checks good. The blower fuse under the dash checks good too. The actuator moves the flapper door as it should.I suppose it could be the switch, but that requires some dismantlement of the dash. When a blower relay goes bad, it will usually allow (in fact cause) the blower to go only on high If it doesn't blow at all, can that still be the cause?
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Truck has heat when driving but when stopped blows cold air. Replaced thermostat. still blows cold when stopped.
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I have a 2007 Sonata 2.0 crdi which is poorly. The heater stopped blowing out hot air on Saturday. The heater is only blowing slightly warm air. The passenger side seems to be slightly warmer. I have looked at the side of the heater matrix whilst rotating the temp control on the passenger side and this moves the plastic adjuster on the matrix freely. When I turn the fan speed controller then the adjustment on the drivers side on the matrix moves. Both of these move freely.
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My 2009 Santa Fe GLS a/c, heater, etc. blower has stopped blowing air. I have checked the fuses, did the push test on the air adjustment button but nothing has worked. Sometimes it's like I can feel a VERY SMALL amount of air blowing out the vents.
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The heater fan stopped blowing the other day. The fuses check out ok. What would be the most likely culprit after that? relay? Switch? Blower motor?
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So the story goes that one day my 2013 RX350 stop blowing heat from the air vent. I took my car in the dealer to have to take a look. First of all, it took them a WHOLE week to diagnosis the problem, second of all, a consultant told me that he FOUND a pen inside the heater box that caused the gear shaft to break, which is used to control the heater doors...
What is he talking about? More importantly, he's saying I "accidentally dropped a pen" from the passenger side compartment storage and it somehow caused the heater door broke?
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I have noticed on my 2011 Elantra, that the heated seat no longer remains on. I turn it on, level 1 or level 2, and a second later it turns off.
This only happens for the driver seat, passenger seat works fine. Why this might be?
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So it's finally been nice this week, only problem was it was Humid as it poured for more than 24 hrs the day before. I tried using my Ac but all it was doing was blowing warm air. I figured it was the car being hot since it it black and it was sunny & I did have the car running. I tried using the Ac yesterday and it was blowing slightly colder air but still warm. I don't know what the problem is and so I went to my moms elantra to compare since we have the exact car just different colors and her car was blowing air as if it was straight from the arctic.
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Recently purchased a 2016 Elantra. All was working well with car. Now, all of a sudden, when I turn on car via remote start the heater isnt coming on like it did before. It wont turn on until I put key in ignition. I had to get a new remote recently and seems like thats when it started to happen, but I cant be sure. Is it possible the remote was programmed incorrectly? Or is it more likely a fuse or relay issue?
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I have a 2014 elantra limited and have noticed heater issues. The heat never gets hot until the temp is set to higher levels. For example 25c /77 f is just lukewarm I need to set the temp up as high as 28c/82f or higher to get decent heat. Anything below 24c is like having the air conditioning on. It also seems to fluctuate at time, blowing warmer air and then turning cold. Coolant is topped up, no visible leaks i.e., nothing on the garage floor.
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I have a 2013 Elantra with 27,000 miles on it. No problems at all, except once in a while, it idles a bit rough/low.
The A/C never seemed to be SUPER cold, but it was OK. A few weeks ago, I timed it and it took 10 mins on a hot day to even feel comfortable.
So, we took it to our local mechanic. He said no leaks, but it was a bit low on refrigerant. Drive home and WARM air is blowing, plus at a signal, I surged forward, as though someone hit me from behind.
I immediately go back and he was baffled. He calls a few hours later and says it's fixed, something had come loose during the repair or something to that affect. I was stressed and not listening well (I know, bad)
That was about 10 days ago. The A/C has been fine, except for one brief time where it was a bit warm, no surging though.
This morning, it starting cycling warm air about every 3 minutes AND during the times of warm air, it was surging.
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I have a 2011 Elantra and the air conditioning is not blowing cold air. I checked the system pressure with the AC running and get 83 psi on the low side and 85 psi on the high side. I have not found any documentation about what the correct readings should be...
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What could possibly be wrong with my new 2012 Elentra GLS. When i stop at red lights or at stop signs the car starts to shake a bit. The vibrations can be felt in the cabin specially around the dash board area. I wouldn't have noticed it if it was same on all stops, however, it seems intermittent. The car would be dead quite and motion less on one red light while on the other I can clearly feel the vibrations. I have taken it up with the dealership and mechanics there are clueless about it. One reason given was that it could be the inline 4 engine causing that vibration, or, a car system kicking in e.g. air con. that would cause stress on the engine.. i frankly thought it could be caused due to clutch not engaging properly..
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I have a 2016 Elantra Sport which I purchased in Sept. I have noticed an intermittent beeping (5-10 min. apart) when the car is stopped, not running, in my garage. Can't find anything in the manual about it. Is this a security warning, or what?
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Not sure it is a problem. In fact i don't think it is, but I noticed it the other day when I felt a slight jerkiness when reversing.
The ECO quickly blinks whenever I hold the break down while not moving, but when I let off the break it doesn't flash. Normal?
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My car gives off a pulsating vibration when I'm stopped (at a light, or in my driveway, for example). Its as if someone with huge bass is sitting next to me, but I'm alone. Its a weird "jerking" feel where I can feel my seat shake like a mini earthquake.
I've tried researching "rough idle" but don't fully understand it. Rough idle implies a clogged intake, which kind of makes sense I guess. I have something better than "my car kinda vibrates when I'm stopped".
Its a 2012 Elantra Limited, all stock everything, 53981 miles.
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I installed my dome light, map light, and rear license plate LEDs with no problem a couple of months ago. When my LEDs for the vanity lights came in today, I immediately went to install them. The first one on the driver's side was installed without a hitch, but after I installed the second one on the passenger side, none of the interior lights worked. The only difference in installation I can think of is that I disconnected the light on the passenger side as opposed to keeping it plugged in on the driver's side.
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I've had my 2013 Hyundai for about a week now and I feel a slight vibration/shaking when the car is stopped and I have my foot on the brake. When I was in the finance office signing all the papers, etc. The finance manager was trying to sell me the free oil changes for 3 years/tire rotations/filter change for $600. He was adamant that if I do not get all my service done by Hyundai dealer all the warranties are voided. I asked him specifically this question at least 3 times as I was appalled at the notion, and time and time again he would say the second you bring it somewhere else for an oil change the warranty is voided. 5 days later I brought the vehicle back to get my sticker, and I asked the guy at service, he said absolutely not. He said it doesn't matter as long as you have the proof/receipts.
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I bought a brand new 2013 elantra last year and currently has 20,000 miles on it. I had custom halos installed as my lights that turn on automatically when the car is on and is on continuously. I also have hids installed into the headlights.
Last week my battery sign came on when I turned the car on and after driving about 20 minutes the car completely stopped and did not turn on. Took it to the dealership and they first denied me warranty saying because of all the aftermarket stuff we cant touch this car for free. So I paid for the diagnostic which was $102 and after they told me that your alternator fried but they are not sure why. Would it be because of the halos and hids??
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As I was driving, my break light came on and my ABS light came on. Also, the temp gauge stopped registering and my AC stopped blowing cold air. Is this a familiar problem or do i have a legit electrical problem.
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