Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Gear Shift Stuck / Burning Smell
Jan 17, 2014
I have 2011 Elantra at ~20,000 mile, and strange things started happening since last year...and it kinda blew up today.
My dashboard has been flickering randomly for a while, as in everything goes dark and turns up again in the middle of driving.
And today it turned off and turned on (as it usually does), and the dashboard seemed broken; speedometer stuck at 0 mph, rpm meter stuck at 0, all warning lights turned on, gas meter going up and down and stuff.
Fortunately enough I was close to home so I drove it back home, and my gear shift was stuck at neutral (I could switch b/w N and D).
So I took out the shift lock release? thing and managed to put the gear to P and pull my key out. I stepped out of my car and I smelled something burning...not a very good sign. What should I do? Well I think I need to take it to dealership tomorrow but I'm not sure if it'll be safe to drive...
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I don't know what is causing this but I bought a 2012 elantra last week (500 miles on it so far). Yesterday when I went to start my car the clicker wasn't opening or locking the doors so I had to use my key to open the door. When I got in my car would start but was "stuck" in park and I couldn't shift past park (yes I had my foot on the brake). After about 10 minutes it just randomly worked... Today I was driving to work stopped to get gas and as I was stopping I realized I couldn't shift passed neutral to put in park (I could go back and forth between drive and neutral). While this was going on my windows would not go up or down. Again after 10 minutes the problem seemed to fix itself. What could be causing this?
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I just noticed a burnt smell in the trunk of my 2013 Elantra Limited with 4,000 miles. You can't smell it inside the car. Called the dealer and was told, "Oh, don't worry, that's the burn-in smell", it will go away in a few weeks".
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About a 2 weeks ago I took the 2011 in to Hyundai to get the oil changed. (For the record I brought my own oil and Bosch oil filter). Anyhow, yesterday, noticed a nice pool of oil under the car after the first stop on errands. Looked underneath, and sho' nuff, there was a good little stream of oil. Made a bee line to the same dealership to drop it off. On the way we could smell burning oil and it was running like crap.
The service dept is open on Sunday so they called to tell me it was just the filter, he said probably a "burr" ?? and it can happen. My questions are Why did it take two weeks to start and should I be worried more damage happened? Supposed to pick it up tomorrow so trying to be prepared.
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Ok, here's the situation... (Elantra GLS - Automatic)
I was at a 4-way stop sign. No other cars were around so I accelerated. Then suddenly, I hear and see a car coming at me REALLY fast, and well, I panicked. I floored the throttle (almost literally), and I heard something popping or maybe it was a farting sound... It happened so fast that I don't remember clearly...
Then behind me was a HUGE cloud of smoke behind me. I mean really, it covered up the whole street. It was 10 PM, so I couldn't really tell what color it was, but it seemed to be white... So I turned off my car. Checked the engine, no smoke from the engine. I started it up again, and instead to revving to about 2000 rpm at start up like it always does, it only went to about 1000, and more smoke was flushed out the exhaust.
I was close to home, and with no 24-hour mechanic shop around me, I drove home. As I drove home, I had quite a bit of smoke trail behind me which scared me through out the whole 2 minutes of driving. I got home, and I checked the exhaust again, but there was no more smoke. However, a burning smell lingered around the exhaust.
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I have two codes P0760 and P0755, malfunction shift solenoid B and C, today I took it to Hyundai here in queens ny, I was told that It would cost e 2684.00 to fix my issue, I can't believe that if those two codes are the problem why would it cost 2684.00 ? Where are these solenoids located?
The car feels like your one of the flintstones, it's stuck in 3rd gear and cant get out, then it jerks when it tries to shift, tranny oil is fine not burnt like if the clutches are gone.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic with the Tiptronic transmission. last week I went to put the transmission into Tiptronic mode and it would not go in. it like crunch to the right and would not shift gear up or down nor would the gear number appear on the digital dash.
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I have a 2011 Elantra 1.8 automatic Gls with 133k miles. While driving approximately 70 miles per hour the car downshifted to fourth gear, and would not shift up or down. I drove the car home and found that this is called "lump mode". I checked the codes, and found P0880 tcm voltage input. I replaced the fluid temperature sensor and harness, and checked continuity through the harness. I found no problems in the harness from the tcm to the solenoid connector. I then purchased a matching tcm, but the problem persisted. If the battery cable is left off for several days the problem will disappear until the car warms up.
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My car has the clunk whenever I shift into gear (I have a manual) at low speeds and in low gears. Brought the car into the dealership and they think it's the front axles. Had one replaced (as they thought it was the passenger side axle) and clunk is still there. Went in to have the second one replaced, but part was not right. Waiting on the new part to arrive this week.
Axle? I honestly think it's tranny or gear related. Other than that, the car has been ok. I am going to work on sound deadening this week, getting my front strut bar installed and doing some research about the rear suspension.
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Just got my 2013 Elantra Limited last weekend. It appears the car is having some issues with the transmission shifter. I am not sure if its tranny related, but I highly suspect it is. Dealer gave me the usual bs not being able to duplicate the symptoms.
1. Intermittently, gear selector would get stuck in neutral, when I try to put the car into P, after a long or a short drive.
2. I would have to wiggle the shifter to get into P, or I would have to shift to D, and then I am able to shift back into P.
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I have a 2012 Elantra Limited with about 36000 Miles. I purchased this car used with 12000 miles. I commute to work about 90 miles round trip a day mostly highway. I usually average about 33 or 34mpg. Recently, my mileage has fallen to 22 or 23 mpg and I have noticed my car having problems shifting. When accelerating normally, 1st - 3rd shift normally. Once I get into 4th, the car won't shift into 5th unless I manually do it with the gear lever or play with the throttle. If I just accelerate it will go all the way up to over 6000 rpm before it will shift. There are no problems with down shifting. Once it gets into 5th it will shift into 6th normally. There are not warning lights on and it doesn't always do it so of course when I need to recreate it I can't.
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I got a new '13 Elantra GL sedan with standard transmission a month ago, and I've noticed that 1st gear is very "torquey" (always jumps when mildly applying or releasing gas pedal), and there is a very notchy shift clunk from 1st to 2nd, so loud you can audibly hear the gearshift change quite significantly. The torquiness occurs for about 1st-4th gears (It's a 6-speed), but the notchy clunk doesn't occur for any other gears except 1st, and I took my friend's 2013 Veloster stickshift for a drive the other day, and his 1st gear is MUCH smoother and less jumpy.
Also, taking off in 1st is a very delicate balance and I still stall it now and then, no matter how much I focus and practice. It also feels like it's sputtering on takeoff every time, unless I really slip the clutch (which isn't a good habit to take up). Slipping the clutch for reverse is necessary unless I want a very jumpy, very grindy and clankery (is that a word? lol) reverse.
Is this an issue with Elantra sedans in general for stickshift models, or is it a problem with my specific car? Should I bring it into the dealer?
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I am not sure if it's my imagination or not, but my car seems to be running differently lately.
When the car shifts into 4th the Rpms seem to drop kind of and the car seems like it is bogging down. Not extreme, but I don't remember this when I first got it. It's like I really have to accelerate when it shifts into 4th or I cannot pick any speed up.
Is it because the motor is now broken in? It has right at 8,000 miles now. It's due for an oil change, but I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it !
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Yesterday I was stuck in traffic an smelled a burning oil smell. I thought I was the car in front of me so thought nothing of it. Later in the day as i was sitting and idling i smelled it again so knew it was my car. I came home took of the plastic covers and checked under the engine and oil filter everything was dry and clean. I checked topside could not find anything there either, very clean and no signs of oil or fluid. I can only smell it when parked or stuck in traffic while driving I don't smell anything. Usually happens when I have driven several miles.
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Drove to work today and all was fine. Came out at 3 and started my Elantra up, dropped it into gear and it was ROUGH. Engine ran for a few seconds before I put it in gear. The shifts up the street were hard and the downshifts were equally hard. I put the transmission in manual--same thing. After a few minutes, the shifts returned to normal. No CEL. The car has 48,700 miles on it.
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2013 Elantra GT ... It is winter on the east coast and we turned on the heater and the car began to smell like an electric wire is burning. It literally is making us sick. The A/C did not produce this smell. The dealer says it is normal.
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In 4 x4 ( 2000 ford ranger 4.0 ) and drive for a while I can smell gear oil burning off the exhaust looks like it's coming out of the right cv shaft? Is there a seal that goes first That's bad?
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My 2003 Nissan Sentra was doing fine a few days ago until I started up a very steep hill and went into 1st gear. There was a burning smell for about 2 blocks so I shifted to 2nd gear. The smell went away. When I was in 1st gear it did not sound or feel like I was trying to go too fast for the gear. I just smelled the burning. Same hill in 2nd, no smell. How much should I worry?
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My 2010 Subaru Legacy has been leaking oil since the last oil change, and also smelling like burning oil. I took it back to the mechanics, and they told me something about oil pooling from previous oil changes into the splash pan, soaking into the foam in or around the splash pan, and the foam got so saturated that it is now dripping oil. The good news: no new leak, only a residual leak.They cleaned it up, replaced the foam, and topped me off-no charge.
My questions: Does this sound right/common? Or are my mechanics sloppy to be saturating foam in or around the splash pan? And is the burning oil smell related to all this splashing and pooling oil? This is the third oil change related issue I've had with them. First they didn't fill my oil to the appropriate fill line (I believe they over-filled
Then the next time they did not tighten my oil cap enough, which caused oil to spill and burn, and they couldn't diagnose the issue (I took it in complaining of the smell of something burning-almost like plastic burning, and they looked at me like I was crazy, and told me they couldn't smell anything burning. Getting it fixed took a chance encounter with a different mechanic, and he knew what it was by smell! Now I do, too).
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Noticed a burning smell while driving in 2010 prius?
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I have found that when I accelerate quickly, while entering the expressway or getting around a semi for example, a burning smell enters the car. I imagine it's oil but uncertain. The smell occurs shortly after the quick acceleration and it doesn't occur consistently.
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