So I got gas 4 days ago and today the check engine light came on afterwards. Went to auto zone to read code and it had to do with the gas pressure being slightly low (gas cap). So I got gas and resealed the gas cap. Well, it's been about 2 days since then and it hasn't gone off. Does it need to be reset or does it take more time?
View 1 RepliesI'm due to leave at 6am sharp on Friday morning for that pre-planned surprise 50th Bday celebration I've been talking about for my wife. This evening I get in the Elantra to pick her up and when I started the car it began to shake VIOLENTLY, like I was in a commercial dough mixer. WTF!?? I saw the check engine light was on so I shut it off immediately. Curiously, I had the car out earlier without incident.
I restarted the car and it ran smoothly this time, but the check engine light remained. Calling the dealer, I was able to get a 9am appointment for tomorrow morning. I don't have an OBD-II scan tool to check the codes, but based on the symptoms, and recent poor gas mileage.
So the check engine light on my '12 with 5K miles came on 2 days ago. Called to make an appointment at the dealer for tomorrow...and today it goes off. Is it relatively safe to fore go the appointment and see what happens? I don't think it was related to the gas cap.
View 2 RepliesI just bought a used 2011 Elantra GLS and am having some issues that the dealer cant resolve. What is happening is the the Check Engine light comes on and off. It will be on for a day or so, then go off for a day or so, so I am thinking its the gas cap. So I tighten that thing up as good as I can and pulled the negative battery terminal and problem solved. About 2 days later, and about 200 miles later on the same tank of gas, the light pops back on. So I call the dealer and took it there the next day.
On my way to the dealer, the light goes out. They try and pull the code, but the ECU is showing nothing. I asked if the ECU stores codes and I was told that when the light goes out on its own it clears the ECU of the code. Not sure if that is true, but that is what I was told. So I drive the car home. I fill the car with gas, drive about 100 miles and the light comes on. I call the dealer the same day, take it over, and on the way like the car knows it goes off and guess what? Dealer cant do nothing.
Now to make a long story longer, this is what I know. The car is not a CA car. It was sold in GA and was a prior rental. It ended up in CA and was sold as a certified pre owned from a Hyundai Dealer, I actually bought the car from a Mitsubishi Dealer and they dealer traded for this car (thats another long story) the carfax does show that it failed emissions but passed after several attempts. Which I thought was odd on a ULEV vehicle. Since I liked the car so much and the price was good, I bought it since it did pass smog eventually.
Once I get the car home, I do my usual thorough look. I clean everything to my standards. I am cleaning the engine compartment and took the engine cover off. 1st thing I noticed was the Spark Plug Coil Packs all the 10mm bolts that hold them in were loose and 2 of them were completely off!! So I decided thats odd, so I pulled the plugs out and they were the NGK's so just in case I put a brand new set of the NGK laser Iridiums back in and tighten everything up. Then I notice where the PCV valve is on the valve cover, the hose that goes to that to the intake tube does not look stock. The hose looks like fuel line hose that someone put on it and the clamps are not stock. So I am canvasing for OEM replacements of those parts now. Then when I was installing the mud guards, on the drivers side rear tire where the gas filler tube is I notice another non OEM clamp. So someone was messing with this area of the car too.
The car is averaging 26-28mpg's in the city and I have been getting 35-37mpg's highway so I don't think there is anything major wrong here. I believe that either the PCV valve hose is kinked and may be causing a fault, or that since it was a prior rental that people were over filling the gas tank and maybe blew the expansion valve in the gas tank, causing the fault. I have no way to prove this since the light goes on and off and clears the ECU every time I take it in.
I have a 2015 Hyundai Elantra Limited. Lately, the check Engine light comes on when I accelerate from a full stop and stays on for 3-5 seconds. It has also happened when I accelerate to get on the interstate (that just started today). There is no issue with the car accelerating. Everything else seems to be fine. It's just the Check Engine light that is freaking me out a bit. I've had the car since June so I'm not ready for any major issues. It started two days ago. I took the gas cap off and put it back on last night to see if that was the cause but it's still happening today.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2013 Elantra GLS with almost 200k on it. I am the original owner. I have only had a few small problems with it just replacing lights and had to replace the passengers side wheel bearing twice. the rest has just m=been replacing wear and tear parts. the check engine light is on because it needs 02 sensors. They are back ordered. The car started idling roughly and driving horribly on the way from Rhode Island to New York on Christmas day. A friend had a diagnostic machine and the code read misfire cylinder 3 p0303..I am assuming it damaged the catalytic converter and that I now need both the sensors and the convertor. I live about 7 miles from my garage. should I tow it ? or drive a t a low speed? Have to bring it in first thing in the morning. What else could be wrong?
View 3 RepliesCheck engine light came on about 2 weeks ago on my 2013 elantra gls. I went to auto zone to get it checked and they ran a p2096, which is what I had almost a year ago. That was fixed by dealer software update. So, I thought that was what needed to be done, headed to the closest Hyundai and they found p2096 and p2196. They replaced the o2 sensor bank 1, under warranty.
However, the next day the check engine light came on, less than 24 hours. Brought it back to the dealer, they said everything was within the correct "parameters" and said the light shouldn't come back on. On the way to work this morning, the check engine light came on, when the car was in the exact same spot it was yesterday.
I'm thinking the computer doesn't recognize the repair and needs to cycle a few times but I don't know. I'm so tired of going to the dealership because they are obviously missing something if the light is still on.
So as my first post was about all the upgrades/mods I wanted to get recommendations on, it saddens me that my second is about my check engine light.
I've noticed for the past week a little bit more of a "bump" when accelerating into gear. This Friday, coming home from work the check engine light came on. Checked the oil and gas cap, everything seems ok. I'm taking it into the dealership tomorrow and will update with their findings.
I'm worried cause I would never imagine the light to come on so soon. The car is barely two months old!
In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
I filled all my tires with air, and the light still won't go off. It's winter so I don't know if that comes into play, but all my tires are at 30psi....
View 29 RepliesMy warning light for my tire pressure came on, I fixed the tires and now it won't go off. Is there a reset button I need to press? I can't find it in the manual ...
View 48 RepliesI have a 2012 Elantra with about 47,000 miles, and I've noticed that the oil pressure light comes on for about 2-3 seconds at startup. It never comes on while idling or driving, and the car runs like a champ. I checked the oil level, and it's good, and I get regular oil changes.
View 14 RepliesI have a '14 Elantra with 35k miles. Recently, the oil pressure light has been flickering when turning or braking. I checked the oil level and it's full. I am overdue for an oil change. If it makes a difference, I used to commute to work 35 highway miles one way. I got a new job in my town 2 months ago, so my commute is now 3 min, city-type driving conditions.
View 27 Repliesso I bought a 2008 Sonata with 70K miles about a month ago...
about a week ago, I noticed the oil pressure light was not going off immediately, it would stay on for like 5-10 seconds after the engine would start, usually it would fade away, sometimes flicker..
anyway, the time it stayed on and took to turn off got progressively longer every day (as long as 30-45 seconds) but it eventually goes away... well today the check engine light came on, and now the oil pressure light will flicker occasionally, and seems to do so based on actual pressure, not like a loose wire or something...
whats weird is if i'm acclerating, or maintaining steady RPMS, there is no light, but if i let off the gas, it will come on real quick, like a fraction of a second and go away, but when the car shifts (the same type of RPM drop) it doesn't happen...
anyway, I'm pretty chapped about it as I just got the car less than a month ago and bought it as is, but now i'm freaking out..
oh also the car doesn't leak, the oil change is less than 1K miles old and the oil is showing full on dipstick.
2004 Elantra sedan 2.0 ... When engine is started oil pressure light comes on an engine is knocking. Light goes out and knocking stops until you accelerate to a shift point. is it time to replace the engine. Oil is full. 144,000 miles
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 140K + and recently had an oil change. I went on a 8 hr road trip split up between 2 days (there and back). On the way home I noticed my oil pressure gauge acting funny, going up and down but not past 40. Today, I drove home from work (10 miles or so) and the check engine light came on and the oil pressure gauge was very low, almost 0. I made it home but was very nervous and noticed both today and this weekend there was smell, burning or burned type smell. What should I do? I don't really trust the garage that changed the oil and was skeptical taking it there but was in a pinch.
View 12 RepliesI've never owned a car with TC AWD yes but not front wheel w/traction control! At times when slightly spinning on ice or in snow I'll hear a 'click,click,click until I let up or it gets traction, is this a normal sound?.
View 11 RepliesWhile I am driving the car it will start to die and skip. Happens randomly. Today I was driving up a small hill and it went quits on me started lurching with check engine light coming on and off. The car will turn over and start, but only for a few seconds before dying again.
Seems to happen when the car is running for a while. Also the ABS light flashes on then off randomly while driving sometimes although It hasn't been an issue. Will be checking tomorrow to see if it starts.
I was driving when the truck made a terrible noise and while pulling over the check engine light went on as well as low oil pressure. I turned off truck and checked but no evidence of any leakage at all. Checked oil stick and was dry. Let sit for an hour and checked oil stick to find about 1/2" showing. Added oil to find that now it was overfull, drained oil back and stick showed proper level. Attempted to drive and it was fine until I came to a stop wherein it would stall with "low oil pressure" showing and check engine light on. Brought to shop and they said engine is very gunked up, they said they could try oil flush but probably will not work. They most likely will have to remove the valve cover and such to physically look at engine and take it from there... (I have always used type of oil stated on the cap, used synthetic and changed every 5-7k miles - showed diagnostic codes p0011, p0340, p0345 and p0021).
View 14 RepliesMy 2011 elantra started making a sound when I turn all the way to the right and slightly again once you release the wheel. It pretty much sounds like a rusty coil being stretched to it's limit. It happens while driving and turning right as well as when the car is not in motion and turning the wheel all the way to the right. Not sure what it could be.
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