Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Engine Stalled And Barely Moving Above 15 Kms
Oct 4, 2015
My avante/elantra model is 1.6GLS year 2012.. last friday, it stalled. Saying, i had a low fuel, no digits on fuel tank, one bar left and linking with fuel light on. took the car to petrol station about 200metres. fueled up and drove few 50metres and engine lost power and jerking and died. I could start the car easily, engage gear to D, and able to accelerate , BUT it goes stalling or lost power when accelerate more than 15KM p/hour... it just cant go more than that... engine dies off. check engine ON. Start engine back on again, REV engine continuously, and it slows down above 3/4 rpm with a loud sound like revving without air filter.
So I called up mechanic, he change plugs, still same. he plugged OBD, and gets a KNOCK SENSOR reading on screen, he resetted it, and now the engine has a knocking kind of sound when rev and still can't move.
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First time Hyundai owner. Just bought a new Elantra 2013 for my soon to be 16 year old daughter. We picked up the car from the dealer last Sunday and the car has about 40 miles on the odometer. Tonight my daughter and I we took it out for a drive and I was driving at a speed of 30 mph and the car suddenly went dead, no power , no lights, simply nothing just complete darkness. I called Hyundai roadside assistance and they towed the car to the dealer. The tow truck driver tried to see if it was battery related and he brought a portable battery and hooked it up to the car's battery but that did nothing to power up or restart the car. This was very scary as it was like an invisible hand just pulled the plug off and switched off the car. I am very worried now as this car is for my daughter and I would hate to think what could happen driving alone or on busy roads, or at night. What could it be?
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On my way back from the coast today, the trucks RPM's started going up and the engine was reving up, but I was losing steam. It started only when I was climbing long steep hills, but by the time I got home, it was doing from a dead stop in first gear, barely moving when I applied gas and released the clutch..
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I run the A/C all the time in the warm months. When I stop at a read light or my car isn't moving, the a/c stops cooling. I had an issue a few weeks ago where my car started to overheat in a drive-thru because the electric fan wasn't running at all. The electric fan connection had gotten loose and melted. I got that fixed but now when I turn the a/c on the electric fan only comes on when the engine needs cooling. The electric fan should be on anytime the a/c is on to cool the condenser correct? Is there a bypass switch or maybe a fuse that was damaged from my previous problem?
2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS
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I woke up and drove to a stop sign. When I tried to pull away the transmission raced like crazy, HIGH RPMS! But was barely moving. After about 8-15 mph it would finally catch 2nd gear. I check fluids frequently, and topped it off a few weeks ago, and when I finally got where I was able to stop, I looked and there was no fluid registering. So I put 2 quarts in to fill.... Then started the car and it would not go into any gear completely. I'd just feel a small thump, when I shifted. It will actually drop into gear after a while going straight, but it's stil revving HIGH and it won't completely go into reverse. Weirdest thing, the "Anti-Lock" light came on while all this was happening...
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I am hearing a clicking sound when shifting and perhaps an unrelated but similar click when I am pressing the gas peddle from a stop. Perhaps a CV joint? I'm taking the car in to the dealer (approximately 79,000 km or 48,000 miles) on the 20th to give the car a once over.
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Ever since I installed my L.e.d. lights in my doors the automatic door lock once moving keep locking like 3 times. I don't know why this would happen I didn't touch anything I shouldn't have. Why this would be happening.
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I had to stop quick today. My ice water spilled into the gear shift lever. A mile down the road my rpms went up high and the car barely moving.
2006 Hyundai Sonata...
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I have a 2010 Grand Caravan, and the engine just stops while moving down the road. Once you shift to neutral, the engine starts again easily. The only common thing we've found is that the skid control light goes on. It doesn't seem to happen when going more than 30 mph, and does seem to happen more when the temps outside are changing, but both when we get a warm spell or a cold snap. The recall work on the key assembly has been done, and the key always seem to be in the on position, so it's not that known issue. The local garage couldn't find anything or even replicate the problem. The dealership replaced the spark plugs and did a fuel system cleaning. Those were probably due, but they didn't seem to work much.
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Saturday while moving some items for the inlaws my truck, while moving at slow speed, reduced power to the point where it almost stalled, anti lock brakes were growling, right rear tire was dragging the brakes skidding the tire. maybe ten seconds then ran normal. got to stop sign and made a right turn and at about 30 mph started doing the same on and off for maybe 30 seconds. All the time Advance Track light blinking 3 times then pause, and repeating.
Stopped in a parking lot for a couple mins, did not shut off but drove the rest of the way home normally. At home we could smell brakes cooking, right rear brake disk was very hot. Drove to dealer Sunday morn with Advance Track over-ridden and ran normal. What would happen at highway speeds or towing my fiver? Bet they cant reproduce the prob, left no code etc. You know what that means.... I will update later.
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My car has 203K Miles on it and today when I left for work, it started up after a few more cranks than normal, sputtered a bit and then stalled. I then went to start it again and it would only crank. The fuel was low, but not empty. Normally, the car will have a hard time starting like that when the fuel is low. It is getting colder and those issue are normally amplified. I will list my recent issues with the car below:
- Speedometer jumps all over the place most of the time. Only under throttle does it fixate on the correct speed.
- Check engine light came on a couple of months ago and it was gas cap related. Also related to the fuel tank charcoal filter. After a couple of full tank fill-ups, it went away.
Now, I checked all of the fuses and belts. I pulled the Fuel Pump relay and smelled it and shook it. The one for AC next to it was the same one, so I put it in place of the fuel pump and went to start the car. It had very little power to crank suddenly. So I went back out and placed the relays back in their respective spots. Then I tried to start the car and it cranked even slower until the battery died it seems and the car now has fast clicks when trying to crank.
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Not sure if it was because I had the AC on..But after going thorough a car wash we noticed a noise when we turn right.
From the left-hand side of the dash when we turn right you hear a nice like..well at first I thought it sound like something moving, like the pouring of sand. Then we did it with the AC turned off and you could hear the sound of water moving.
I think the fan is making some contact with water when I turn right as water would move to the left side of the car and then perhaps make contact with something.
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Before I got my GX someone posted they had to press harder on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving forward. My truck idles at 550 rpm and the vehicle will barely move forward even with NO brake. Just resting my foot on the brake will hold it easily.
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My car (200,000kms - 5spd). Just noticed today that the gauge is not moving at all. Heat comes out of the dash vents no problem. Could it be the thermostat? Or is it the gauge it's self?
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I recently bought a 2009 Hyundai Elantra Touring. It only has 53,000 miles but I notice a rumbling sound that corresponds to the wheels moving at least about 15 - 20 mph. It's FWD and the front two tires were replaced recently by the previous owner. The mechanic who checked it out before I bought it thought that it was the rear bearings, but when he looked at the tires, he was pretty sure the sound was coming from the tires. I don't mind the noise, but if it's not the tires, it's something I should fix.
I took it to a shop today and the mechanic today and he drove around with me and though the sound was coming from the front of the car and thought it was either something with the rotors or the bearings. I've gotten the speed upwards of 70mph on the highway and I wouldn't say the sound gets any worse when you do that. (I mean you can still hear it, but for instance I didn't even notice it on my first test drive, and the radio mostly drowns it out.) Also given that these two mechanics can't seem to tell whether the sound is from the front or the back, I'm not sure that rotating the tires and listening is going to be useful as a lay person.
It's not a "clunk da clunk" sound, rather it's like a vacuum cleaner hum. Also maybe relevant, the rotors and pads on the rear wheels need to be replaced pretty soon.
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The needle is moving up and then back down. This mostly happens while at a stop and simultaneously the ac compressor kicks off.
Recently new radiator and temp gauge, plus coolant flush.
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I recently started having an issue where when I shift from 1 to 2 I'll get a quick grind of the gears. Here are the circumstances:
- the clutch is completely depressed, just the act of moving the shifter from 1 to 2 causes the grind.
- only when the car is moving.
- one time I was driving and coasting for a while just shifting back and forth from 1 to 2 with the clutch fully depressed and it kept happening.
- if I shift really slowly I can usually prevent it from happening, though I don't think it's RPM related.
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After car warms and while driving trans moves to 3rd gear and stays ??
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I was driving and the clutch started acting strange. Before I could get home, the pedal went hard and moving was about impossible. My husband replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and also the slave cylinder. He got everything put together and the clutch was not disengaging. We have bled the system from the master and also from the slave multiple times, about 10 over the past few months. Still we are not able to get the car moving. The pedal has pressure behind it but nothing. We have checked for leaks and have not found any.
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I bought a 2010 Elantra touring last September (it now has 166000 km). I love the car except for the hard shifts. It happens every morning when moving from a cold start. They vary from slight to pretty noticeable. I had the transmission flushed shortly I got the car. I just had the transmission reset about 2 weeks ago. It was smooth as glass for about a day or so after. Then back to square one. Yesterday it hesitated shifting between 4th and 5th going back and fourth a couple of times.
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So my girlfriend drives a 2010 gti with DSG trans. Recently she was pulling out of a driveway onto a main road when her car basically stalled out and shut off on her. This has only happened the one time, but where she was pulling out was onto a 45 mph rd, pretty scary place to shut down.
I had her take it to the dealer and they found no faults and said her software and everything is up to date. She keeps up with her maintenance.. It's certainly concerning knowing that this could happen and can't be reproduced at the dealer to diagnose.
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