I've only had the car a month, and it's happened maybe three times now. I turn the key, and it takes twice as long as usual to start, about 5 full seconds of the engine cranking before it ignites. I think each time was after I had driven the car an hour or two before (when I'm heading home after an outing). Most of the time, the car starts fine. What's going on?
View 11 RepliesHaving a problem with the engine cranking over a few times before actually starting. This only happens after the car has been sitting over night. Thought maybe it was a bad battery, but it has been replaced in the last few months.
When I turn the key to start, it tries to fire for up to 3 seconds before actually starting. This only happens on the first start of the day, after that it starts quickly with no problems.
What updates were done to the 3.6 engine for 2008? So far in 100 or so miles I've noticed that the 2008 3.6 is:
Much easier to start. (06/07 requires cranking much longer to start)
idles smoother (06/07 shook a little when sitting at idle)
accelerates smoother
then the 2007.5 3.6 I had, and the 2006 3.6 in my friends Passat.
Both of those did have the OJ update done. The only visual difference is the plastic engine cover. On the 06 and 07 it has a silver colored cover. the 08 has a black cover that is different in shape.
2002 elantra gls 125k miles, Automatic
I have a very intermittent problem starting the vehicle first thing in the morning ( this has happened twice this week, but only 5-6 times in the past year or so). It will crank and sound as if it just about to start, but not quite fire. After 5-10 mins of cranking, shifting into and out of gear, rocking vehicle (not sure what actually causes it to start, if anything) the car fires and runs just fine, starting normally until the next "event".
Plugged it in and got no codes.. The only difference I can see is that every time this has happened recently the car has been parked in a parking garage at work on a minor incline for about 13 hours.
Alright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
Weird noise I am hearing with my mothers new Elantra she just picked up. When starting engine has a knocking noise, not kinding. Letting motor run for a few minutes it goes away but is concerning. I was wondering if there is an issue with the MPFI engine which i believe is new this year which replaced the GDI engine. Definitely does not sound normal to me. to me it sounds like a rode knock or hydro lifter issue. Are these engines known for this. My mother traded her 2012 civic for this with 4500 miles. She did not like the seats and dash board layout in it and we got a good deal on this car.
View 17 RepliesI know it is obvious that a car that idles longer (and more often) will have reduced MPG, but I never thought or knew it to be so impactful. Well it is. I had been averaging around 365-375 miles per tank with my car having had less than 7000 miles. However, recently I installed some car audio components that has resulted in me tweaking the car's sound much more often via laptop. Due to the heat down in here in FL, I most often tweaked my system with the car running so that i didn't sweat to death.....seriously.
I probably have been idling (i.e., tweaking) for the past 3 weeks for about about 20-30 minutes every other day and my tanks have gone down significantly to a little less than 300 miles per tank (ie < 25 mpg).
So, while it is a no brainer to not idle for long periods, in my opinion it is especially true for our 2011 + Elantras. Curious to try a tank of gas with idling at an absolute minimal.
I have noticed on my 2011 Elantra, that the heated seat no longer remains on. I turn it on, level 1 or level 2, and a second later it turns off.
This only happens for the driver seat, passenger seat works fine. Why this might be?
I have a 2000 Accent with 90k miles. The last week or two, it takes about 5- 6 seconds of cranking to start when the engine is cold. Having had the car since new, I know that it's not normal.
The engine seems to crank strongly, and once started idles and drives well. This occurs once about every 4 starts when engine cold. Warm engine starts normal.
Changed plugs - no difference. Maintenance current per owners manual schedule.
My car was fine when I left work (in a city) but after 30 or so highway miles (by the time I got home) my power steering had gone out. At home I saw that the belt had come off (but not broken). I had a friend of mine replace the tensioner (which was broken) when everything was put back together the car would no longer start, the engine sounds like it is going to start but then refuses to turn over. Doesn't seem to be a battery issue as it's fairly new and all the lights, etc come on. Checked the spark plugs and they are fine...seems like power coil...but I find it hard to believe that would be effected by the tensioner? Something that we might have missed?
View 3 Replies02 Chevy Impala with 177,000 miles has re-starting problems for last 20,000 miles. New Battery, cleaned throttle plate, new fuel pump, check engine light on (emission problem was told to me by mechanic). Whats going on?
When the car runs it runs very well...to get the car started, just wait, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes longer than an hour. All the time periodically cranking the engine...just does not start. But when it does start, it runs very well.
This problems occurs only after the car has started and is warm. Let it sit for a while then restarting the problem occurs.
I just recently purchased a 2013 Elantra Coupe, and the Engine Start Stop button will not light up anymore. The small LED above the "Engine Start Stop" lettering still lights up blue or amber if it's in ACC or ON mode, but the lettering itself no longer lights up.
I'm not sure if it's supposed to stay lit while driving, but I noticed it started to flicker at various rates, and then eventually it stayed lit. Now, it's not lighting up at all. I'm wondering if there's a fuse anywhere that could be associated with this or anything I could check myself before taking it to the dealer. I haven't had a single issue getting the car to start with the button, just wondering what could be causing the lettering on it to not light up any longer.
I have 2011 Elantra that I was driving down a slope yesterday and heard some weird noises. The slope had some holes.
While I was going down slowly, I heard my right front making noises. It sounded something like crunching or cracking noise coming from the suspension maybe? I also noticing this when I go over uneven bumps, I am here the same noise as well.
Is this normal? I got about 35K on my car now.
Symptoms:
- Longer cranking time when turning on the ignition.
- Codes P2293 - Fuel Pump Regulator 2 Performance, P0087 and P053F.
- When I get on it, the rpm would shoot up while the speed is increasing at a very slow rate.
At first, I thought it's my clutch slipping, but after watching this youtube video (not mine), I think it's the fuel pump issue.
So my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?
View 1 RepliesOn my 09 accent, it's been cranking slow/taking longer to start. Occasionally it won't even have the guts to spin the starter (clicking solenoid noise).
I checked the battery (<1 year old), and it has a resting voltage of 16.2 (?!) When running, it jumps to 17.4. Is this a bad alternator?
In my manual on page 5-25, it says:
A click sound may be heard in the engine compartment when the vehicle begins to move after the engine is started. These conditions are normal and
indicate that the anti-lock brake system is functioning properly.
Every time I first hit 20 mph after starting my car, I hear what sounds like an aluminum pop/soda can getting crushed. It does not sound like a 'click', it's much more harsh.
So in the past my car has sputtered when starting, but always did fire up. The other morning it started and died and wouldn't run. It turned over, voltage was good, but just cranked and cranked. I let it sit a couple of minutes and tapped the pedal and eventually it reluctantly started. I have 114K now so I'm out of warranty. It has run fine the last couple of days.
View 11 RepliesI got the HID kit from DDM tuning and suffer from issues with them working fine while the car is off but flickering and turning off when I start my car. I just got the error code eliminators to see if it eliminates the problem. The ECE's need to be plugged in correctly or else they can "pop" and be useless. How to tell the polarity of the wiring harness for the headlights?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 F350 7.3 with 76,000 miles (still a baby) ... about a week or 2 ago i got in my truck and went to start it like normal, except instead of whipping over and firing right up in the snap of a finger, it kinda had a slower cranking time and took a second or 2 longer than normal. My first thought was maybe the battery's, BUT there basically brand new !!! not even a year old !!! ... so i figured maybe a starter, but i just left it as is, it still ran normal after firing.... Until this morning, I went to go start it and it cranked over 3 or 4 times real slow and would crank any more, it did this to me multiple times. Its acting like dead batteries so i put a jump pack on it, no change. I am thinking maybe a starter ....
View 8 RepliesI've been having a problem over the past month with my base 2014 Elantra (33k miles). Sometimes when I go to start the car there is a complete loss of electrical power. One of a couple of scenarios will occur:
1) Key Fob will not unlock/lock doors:
*There is no power to anything (no dash lights, interior lights, car won't crank).
2) Key Fob will unlock/lock doors:
* Either all interior lights will be on and when I attempt to crank everything shuts off (no dash lights, interior lights, etc)
* Or Clock and radio are reset, car starts fine
* The battery checks out as far as voltage/charge.
* There are no visible fuse issues.
* There are no check engine lights.
I have had it in the dealer the past 4 days and they haven't been able to reproduce the issue. So far I have been able to eventually get it to start by opening and shutting doors, which would lead me to believe it is a loose connection somewhere, but again the dealer hasn't been able to diagnose anything.