Was typically showing at least 30-32 mpg but now around 30 around town, hwy 34-35. Just came back from hwy drive of 100 miles and the mpg showed 30 at the start and barely got to 34-35 which use to show and then it took the entire trip to get to that. The ECO is on....
View 9 RepliesThere is roughly 800 on the odometer and I was averaging around 35 mpg. I filled it up and driving home afterwards I noticed the mpg drop off significantly. Now I'm lucky to get get 27. It was as low as 16 on the trip computer. The range was the same and the miles come off in sync with the odometer. I'm wondering if its a glitch with the trip computer?
View 30 RepliesI am not sure if it's my imagination or not, but my car seems to be running differently lately.
When the car shifts into 4th the Rpms seem to drop kind of and the car seems like it is bogging down. Not extreme, but I don't remember this when I first got it. It's like I really have to accelerate when it shifts into 4th or I cannot pick any speed up.
Is it because the motor is now broken in? It has right at 8,000 miles now. It's due for an oil change, but I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it !
I had to make a left hand turn very quickly into a gas station. I moved in 1st gear and accelerated quickly (went around 3,200 RPM). When I stopped in the parking spot, clutch disengaged, brake pedal engaged, the engine was still spinning at 3,000 RPM!!!! I waited until the engine calmed itself down to idle RPM but it was stuck at 3,000 RPM.
Something wrong with the accelerator? I put the car back in 1st gear and rocked forward a couple of inches so I can put a load on the engine. I put the gear back in neutral and the engine calmed down to idle RPM. Something was stuck? Bad computers? Bad design?
I have only done 18,000 Kms on my 2013 Elantra GLS. Whenever I am in traffic driving real slow, and whenever the gear shifts in 2nd, the acceleration begins to drop to 1000/1500 RPM very rapidly while pressing and releasing the pedal, and it becomes jerky...
I will try posting a video, but meanwhile, it gets really annoying at times and I need to maintain a very feather foot to make sure it doesn't jerk especially when there are passengers on board..
I've had my 2012 Elantra for a year and a half now, and just about a month ago I started noticing a noise coming from the dashboard area on the passenger side. It sounds like a small marble rolling around. I only hear it when I'm taking sharp turns. I've already taken everything out of the glove box, and I checked all of the little compartments in the doors. I even checked under the seats, but I can still hear the noise.
View 18 RepliesI got one of those iPod cables off eBay and hooked it up to my iPod nano today. It played music immediately, but I was not able to control the iPod through the dash or the steering wheel. Then I noticed that the eBay ad instructs you to connect the cable to the car first, turn the car on, then connect the iPod. I didn't do that the first time. An hour later, I tried it the right way. Same result. I just want to be able to control the iPod using the car stereo controls without having to handle the iPod itself.
View 4 RepliesHow do I turn my dash lights COMPLETELY off? I do a lot of night driving and have learned to live with the dimmer all the way down, though my personal preference is to have it just a little dimmer. My commute makes traffic unpredictable, so I often get to work early (better than too late!), so I like to nap a little in the car until time to drag myself in to the office. When my headlights are off and I'm parked, the dash lights are WAY bright. Is there a way to turn them off, and also have the headlights off too? I need the headlights off (and the silly parking lights that stay on till you set the parking brake). So, simply stated, is there a way to turn everything all the way off while the engine (and heater) stay running?
View 10 RepliesI have a rattle in the dash up in the middle of the dash kind of in between the two sides of the car and between the window and front so basically right in the middle of the dash, if I slap it with my hand I can make the same sort of rattle so something is loose, bad thing is I dropped by dealership and it didn't do it when I was in the car driving with the service guy but I slapped on the dash and you could here a something loose sound rattle same kind I hear when driving. He said that is normal for things to make noise in there when you tap the dash. About a week ago I had the dirty sock smell coming from my vents so I took out the Cabin Filter and sprayed Lysol in the intake the put a new filter in. This is about the same time the rattle started. I wonder if the Lysol might have made something come loose in the vent system.
View 3 Replies2 days ago, with no warning, my 2011 Elantra Touring wouldn't start. Just wouldn't turn over.
I noticed a dash light with the symbol of a key inside a car was on. It would stay lit up at all times except during the start up attempt - even with the key out of the ignition.
I looked it up and have been reading about the immobilizer. Apparently this might be my trouble. Problem is, how to troubleshoot.
Here is what I have tried so far (turn-key ignition)
- verified car was in park.
- tried to start in neutral.
- jump started the battery, even though it didn't seem to be a battery issue.
- left key turned to start position for 15 minutes, then tried to start it. This was recommended in a thread on a different forum for a similar sounding problem.
Will try to post a video of the dash during a start attempt in a few minutes.
I got into my car this morning and looked down to notice that the dash trim is beginning to pop loose... I haven't tried to remove this trim before so I don't know how it happened.
Here are some pictures ....
I am going to take this into the dealer later this week.
So I'm not new to fixing this car but I'm now stuck. It is not the inhibitor switch, I had that replaced, and the car cranks so it is not the problem. In addition, the "P" shows up on the dash. Since the car cranks, its not the battery, it is showing 12.25V.
I am afraid it is the fuel pump. Looking for the specs for the fuel pump such as resistances/ voltages? Sometimes when it cranks, I believe it ignites for half a second and then dies. Then it cranks with no ignition, then it sounds like its dying, then it ignites every once in a while.
Similar to this: [URL] ..... but without the nastiness at 0:08 where they turn off the car mid crank.
My digital clock on the dash runs fast. Every month it gains 2 to 3 minutes compared with my cell phone and I have to adjust it.
View 23 RepliesI have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Limited and have noticed a rattle in the front driver's door area near the Dash. It's hard to pinpoint where exactly it is coming from. The rattle can be heard even on smoothish roads and sounds like a little screw or something else is loose or rubbing against something. I checked that sunglasses holder and made sure nothing was in there but the rattle is still there.
View 55 RepliesI have a 2006 Jeep Commander. Periodically, and quite inconsistently, all the lights on the dash board flash on and off while simultaneously all the gauges drop to zero and the air stops blowing out from the vents. My car will continue to drive and all lights work along with the radio. This has happened while driving at 75 mph on the highway and my car will continue on as if nothing has happened. I know this isn't good, but completely baffled by it all. I have taken it to a Jeep dealer and they only saw there was a weak reading from my battery, but the battery isn't even two years old so I have yet to replace it.
I'm including a video I took while stopped at a light so you will see the RPM's drop down, but since I wasn't moving the MPH remains at zero.
Last fall I had my radiator flushed and at the same time my coolant overfill canister with built in temperature guage sensor was replaced with a new unit. (The service station replaced the resevoir canister with a new unit in the engine compartment, because they felt the sensor is prone to failing after 7 years.)
Ever since, my temperature gauge needle on the dash will randomly drop (even when the car is up to FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURES) showing the engine being cooler than it out to be. In other words the needle drops signifying to a much lower water temperature. After a period of time the needle will recover back to the normal full operating temperature mark on the dash gauge.
What could cause this? Inside my radiator do I have a "diafram" temperature valve that could be failing /"sticking?" In other words could a temperature valve in the radiator be sticking at odd or random times??? I also notice that my heater does not put out the usual full furnace heat that a Passat is know for. The temperature is about 1/3 cooler now that we are into winter temperatures.
Is my heater core clogged?
Could the new coolant sensor in the new coolant overfill chamber not be working well? This whole situation began AFTER my radiator was flushed, and AFTER I had the coolant reservoir canister and sensor replaced.
Have had the following happen 3 times to me during longer (1-2 hrs) drives where I'm driving straight through, no stops, highway driving.
Running along fine when out of the blue, the A/C temp remains strong and cold, but the airflow drops dramatically to the equivalent of 1 or 2 bars on the fan dial. However, the fan dial remains at 5,6 or higher. Upping the fan dial does little to increase the speed of airflow. Adjusting the air source intake buttons changes nothing.
Only thing to correct this is to stop the car and let it sit, off, for about 20-30 minutes, or more. Re-start the car and it's all back to normal.
Searched the forums and can't find anything on Elantra, altho some Tuscon's seem to have had similar issue on older models, although their descriptions were more dramatic, w/the A/C going out w/in 20-30 minutes.
I have a 2003 Elantra, which I've had for several years, and love greatly. Recently though, she's been giving me problems.
When it first started happening, about 6 months ago, it seemed that she was simply sluggish, and wouldn't accelerate as well as normal when I pushed the gas.
It has gotten worse from there, within the past 4 months, sometimes when I turn her on, she idles very rough, and the entire car shakes. Originally when this started happening, if I turned her off and back on, she would run smoothly again. Unfortunately that's no longer the case.
If I attempt to drive anywhere when she's acting up, pushing the gas makes the RPM drop down, and she doesn't move. This has caused a lot of problems at stop where I'm turning onto a busy road. Occasionally when I'm driving around, her RPM drops far below what it should. For example, she frequently drops down to 700 RPM when I'm driving 35 mph... normally when going that speed, the RPM is about 2000.
Most troubling to me is the fact that the engine turns off on me without warning sometimes. I've had her do it when I'm at a stop waiting to turn, at stop lights, and dangerously, even when I'm slowing down through traffic or getting ready to pull into a parking spot.
I've tried multiple things, fuel injector cleaners, replacing temperature sensors, and I've checked all the valves, wires, and hoses. I've had it attached to a code reader and of course she never acts up while it's attached.
Can't run a/c rpms drop to almost 200 from 1200-1500rpms. Really bad when at at traffic light. I have to constantly press gas pedal.
View 5 RepliesMy nephew's car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS manual. His RPM's hang when he shifts and it is a pain to shift.
I took it to the dealer and had them do TSB#04-36-011 Delayed RPM drop between shifts. This TSB supersedes TSB 01-36-025. Here is a link for the newest TSB : [URL] ....
The TSB Basically tells them to erase ECM adaption values. Then, you update the ECM with new FUEL cut-off logic. When we drove off the dealers lot the delay was not better, just different.
After driving it for a day or two we saw improvement. Now when you push in the clutch the RPM's go up slightly for a second to burn off the gas then the RPM's drop faster than before.
Why all of a sudden the mileage indicator on my 2012 suddenly dropped about 5 miles/gallon, both highway and around town? The car has only 9000 miles on it. Has there been a service bulletin regarding the "Eco'" mode? Having the "Eco" mode on or off doesn't seem to make a difference.
View 8 Replies