Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Driver Seat Started Squeaking When Stopping / Accelerating And Going Around Curves
Jul 24, 2012
I've had 2013 Elantra for a month. Love it, but a week ago, the driver's seat started squeaking when stopping, accelerating, and going around curves. Crazy making! I took the car in today. Svc mgr said its a weight issue. The two driver/owners weigh 150 and 160 lbs! Exactly, he said. Apparently, we do not weigh enough to prevent squeak. The only fix would be to replace the seat and there's no guarantee it would work. Also must be approved by regional svc mgr so have to go back in a.m. Told them similar issues posted online (Genesis and Sonata) and was easily resolved lubricant issue. They could at least try what appears to work. No going.
Have other Elantra owners experienced this squeaking? If Hyundai knows this is a recurring issue with their products, at what point do they make engineering changes to resolve the issue? Don't want to, but I am rapidly losing my love for the car as it sounds like a cheap tin can when it squeaks.
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Just turned 17K miles on the truck in my sig, it's a 2wd SuperCab I use for work since day one. I admit this truck get worked hard daily, I do a lot of stopping in hilly terrain. I always have 400-800 lbs of tools and gear in the box. But are the brakes really showing signs of wear already?
Just started about a week ago, when I slow to a stop at low speed, example parking lot, drive-through etc... I get a screech. The brake feel is still smooth and not grinding so I'm snowed. A previous truck 2008 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab 4x4 worked as equally hard from day one of its life went 40k miles on OE pads/ rotors, I'm hoping my 1/2 ton F-150 can best that at the very least. Had an '05 Cummins Diesel worked probably harder that went more than 80k without so much as a peep from the pads.
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I have had my Elantra Limited 2012 for about a month. Just recently I heard a rattle that appeared to be coming from the rear of the vehicle, but after moving my head around I have since been able to isolate it to the sunroof right about the driver's head. I can reach up there an pull down on a metal hinge, and the rattling stops. Drives me crazy listening to a rattle right above my head.
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I just bought an Elantra Limited 2015, have 3 days with the car, it is fantastic but when i put 144km on it, the driver door ajar chime started to go off (8 ding dings) every time i open the car from the outside or inside and only when the switch is set to OFF. it does not happen in ACC or RUN, i thought it might be the lights left on alarm but it happens in whatever headlight switch position so it has nothing to do with the lights and it only happens with the driver door. is this design intent?.. Why it didn't happen before?..
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My driver seat has been squeaking lately whenever I accelerate (at all - not just under hard acceleration). It seems to be any amount of g-force pushing directly backward causes it. I can reproduce it by just pushing back in to my seat when stopped and the engine is off too, so I know for certain it's the seat and not anything drive train or suspension related or anything else. I tried putting a little grease on the tracks that the seat slides fore/aft on, might have worked a tiny bit, but still there. Almost seems like something is loose... not sure. I might end up taking it by the dealer.
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My new-to-me 2013 LS has a squeaking driver's seat... it's especially evident if the car's been parked for a week.
When I purchased the car it had this problem, the dealership "took care of it", but it came back a month later... when I lean back in the seat it squeaks annoyingly...
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This seems like a trivial issue, but it's driving me crazy. A day after driving my new Accent SE off the lot, I put the seats down to move the family Christmas tree back into storage.
When I returned the seats to their upright position, an annoying squeak replaced the silence of the car. Every tiny bump triggers the squeak.
When I put the rear passenger side seat flat, the squeak stops, so I know it's somewhere in that area.
What kind of lubricant do you recommend for hinges and latches? White lithium grease? Should it be the paste variety or spray?
Any similar squeak in their 3-door Accent? I searched HMA Service, but no relevant topics came up.
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I have a 2007 S60. Other day my wife was driving when the driver's seat started moving all by itself - moved all the way forward and stopped which was very frightening while you are doing 110 kmh! Nothing caught in the switches on the side, switches were not wet (shorting). I took it out later but nothing happened until I got out, locked the door and watched as the seat started to move and again did not stop until it was all the way forward! Lucky I wasn't driving - I'm 6'3" and it would have been very uncomfortable. I moved it back, locked 'er up and by the time I got back to the car 30 minutes late, it had happened all over again.
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I have this issue for awhile now. Randomly, above 30mph the car will start chirping, like a cricket sound. When I turn the wheel left or right, it will stop. As soon as it's straight it will start again. What this might be? The car is almost out of warranty and I want to get it in as soon as possible.
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1993 with 95,XXX miles. Driver's seat has developed a little looseness that allows it to rock just a little. Is there a reasonable fix?
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I am a proud owner of a 14' Elantra Sport MT. Did a quick research and didn't find anything that is relevant to my issue. The door handles on the front driver and passenger door panels creek whenever you grab them, whether it is to shut the door or just grab them and give a light squeeze. Definitely not something a new car should be doing.
Another thing, I bought this car down south and am driving it back up to the northeast and during my journey I noticed that the wiper cowl vibrates from the wind, this is very annoying when the radio is turned down. It doesn't present itself until you reach speeds in excess of 60mph. Currently, the car is averaging 38mpg highway!
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My Elantra has about 5,500 miles on it now. I went on a road trip up to Washington D.C. during spring break about two weeks ago.
Anyway, it has been making a squeaking noise when I turn right at around 15-20 mph. It makes a sound similar to a swing when its swinging. It's slightly high pitched and sounds like it's metal on metal. It's getting kind of annoying and I think I might take it in to have it checked out.
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I have a 2013 Elantra GL 4 DR (Canadian model). It has 88,000 km on it and has been maintained well.
For the past 2-3 weeks I have been here a squeaking noise from the engine bay that sounded like a bad belt. Sometimes it appears and sometimes it's quiet. I brought my car to a local shop to just switch the tires over and I asked them to take a look but they didn't notice anything and he said the belt is nice and tight. Of course when I leave the shop the noise starts. The noise happens sometimes when driving and while in park so it's not related to motion of the vehicle.
I took the engine cover off and it sounded like it was coming from the left (belt side) side towards the mid-rear of the engine.
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I changed my brake pads and its squeaking at low speed when i am stopping.
I would like to know what do i need to grease when changing the brakes also do i need to grease the brake pads shims?
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I took my rear springs off for some cleaning and lubing because they were making squeaking noise on hard acceleration, but I forgot to note which direction the springs should point...
I kinda remember the top and bottom. If I got this right, the end with a smaller loop is on the bottom.
Is there any difference between left and right springs? Also, the spring mounting pads is not symmetrical. Which way are they suppose to face? Does it matter?
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OK car is 2010 Camry LE with about 48000 miles.
there is a LOUD squeaking noise coming from my drivers side wheel when driving. When I press the brakes then the noise goes away. I took the wheel off to duplicate the noise by turning the rotors but I couldn't. maybe I couldn't turn it fast enough though. Its not the brake/rotor shield either.
At first it was a slight squeak but now its getting really loud. embarrassing loud. Could the possible issues be calipers, brake shims, cv, axle?
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My 2012 Elantra has been nothing but problems. Unfortunately, with me being away from home in the USA, I haven't been able to bring it to my dealership. Lately, I've noticed that the acceleration of my E sounds different with the A/C on. It's more noticeable right when I hit the throttle that the engine engages, and power goes to the wheel. The sound is a deep more drone like sound, and is only there when my A/C is on.
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With Eco off my sport has a nice bog/hesitation when accelerating. Doesn't matter if ac is on or not. I'm also using shell from the same station I've always used for years. The 2.0 is still pretty new. My cruze turbo had the same kind of issue and turned out to be the spark plug gap was too small from the factory.
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I have an Elantra SE 08 and suddenly have an Airbag code: b1361: driver seat belt pretensioner resistant high. How can I check this, I went to scanner, deleted it, but is on again !!
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
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I guess this feature is standard in newer cars, but how to turn off that annoying beeper for seat belts and keys in the ignition? Perhaps there's a wire that can be cut.
After all, I know enough to buckle my seat belt and feel uncomfortable and unsafe if I do not. I don't need to be beeped at to remind me. Plus, I know when I leave the keys in the ignition and exit the car.
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