Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Driver Door Ajar Chime Started To Go Off
Apr 3, 2015
I just bought an Elantra Limited 2015, have 3 days with the car, it is fantastic but when i put 144km on it, the driver door ajar chime started to go off (8 ding dings) every time i open the car from the outside or inside and only when the switch is set to OFF. it does not happen in ACC or RUN, i thought it might be the lights left on alarm but it happens in whatever headlight switch position so it has nothing to do with the lights and it only happens with the driver door. is this design intent?.. Why it didn't happen before?..
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A few years ago, my 2010 Elantra started sporadic chiming when I opened the driver's door. Dealers explanation was that there is a microswitch (sensor) that detects if a key is in the ignition switch. Seems that the switch/sensor thought the key was still in the ignition and when the door was opened, it chimed to remind you that the key hadn't been removed.
Well, the dealer replaced the microswitch, and after a month or so, the problem returned. They lubed the switch, and once again the problem eventually returned. This happened several times. I eventually learned to tap the steering column, which vibrates the switch/sensor and the chiming stops. The dealer said that if a fix were to become known, they would fix it for me, for free.
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In my 2007 f-250 it started with the door ajar chime that would click on then off somewhat randomly. Then it started doing it every morning on a cold start for about 20 minutes then the light and chime would click off. Now it stays on constantly. And my automatic headlights are turning on when the engine and ignition is all off and killing my battery. Where to start?
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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I've had 2013 Elantra for a month. Love it, but a week ago, the driver's seat started squeaking when stopping, accelerating, and going around curves. Crazy making! I took the car in today. Svc mgr said its a weight issue. The two driver/owners weigh 150 and 160 lbs! Exactly, he said. Apparently, we do not weigh enough to prevent squeak. The only fix would be to replace the seat and there's no guarantee it would work. Also must be approved by regional svc mgr so have to go back in a.m. Told them similar issues posted online (Genesis and Sonata) and was easily resolved lubricant issue. They could at least try what appears to work. No going.
Have other Elantra owners experienced this squeaking? If Hyundai knows this is a recurring issue with their products, at what point do they make engineering changes to resolve the issue? Don't want to, but I am rapidly losing my love for the car as it sounds like a cheap tin can when it squeaks.
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Just started having issues with my door chimes this morning.
Hopped in, started up, and now the door chime will not go until I take the key out of ignition. All doors are shut, seatbelt fastened. No lights on dash, no open doors.
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It makes me a wind noise in the driver's door from 120km or 75 miles an hour...
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When my 2001 Elantra is started, the door chime remains on and the red "door open" indicator remains lit on the dashboard. The chiming continues throughout my entire drive.
While the engine is running I am not able to lock the doors. When the engine is not running, I can lock the doors, but the inside red light on the door, on the driver's side only, stays lit.
I have checked all the fuses, do you know what I can do to either fix it or disable the chiming so I can drive more peacefully?
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specifically what happens to the 2 batteries. I know in all the other cars I have owned, eventually the 12v battery would died and car won't start.
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I just purchased a Shimmering White 2012 Hyundia Elantra GLS last Wednesday. I love it so far!
The only issue I have (and I'm probably nitpicking). Is that I'll occasionally turn the car off (all accessories off, mind you), and when I open the Driver door, the car will 'ding' repeatedly. Again, no lights or accessories are on. I'm also not able to remote-lock the car after this happens.
The only fix I've found is to put the key back in the ignition and turn the car to accessory, then back to off...then the car doesn't 'ding' when I open the Driver door.
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I have 2011 elantra, front driver power door lock only works sometimes.
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Absolutely loving the new car. It's been great!
One small thing that's bothering me, though, is a door handle issue. I tend to open the car door for my girlfriend quite a bit and I've only recently noticed that her door is extremely easy to open. Very little force is needed to pull the door handle with only two fingers. The back doors are the same.
My driver side door is quite the opposite. I always need to pull much harder on that handle, and in some cases if I pull the wrong way I actually have to use force to open it. The only thing I can think of is that it's either just constructed differently as its on the driver door or that I may have actually damaged it a bit when I accidentally hit the lock button on the door as I was opening it. The door actually locked in mid-open and caught the door.
I plan on going to the dealer and testing some other Elantras to see if their driver doors require a bit of pull, and I'd like to hear if anyone else has noticed a difference in opening the driver door as opposed to the other doors? I feel like they should all be silky smooth and require no real effort to open. My driver door just doesn't "pop" open for me anymore.
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I have approximately 45K miles on my 2013 GLS. For some time, I've noticed that when raising the driver door power window, it slows down and becomes sluggish about 1/2 way up, almost like it's struggling. When wet, it's worse and will start vibrating while being raised. I've tried WD40 in the window track, but that's not a permanent solution. Oddly enough, I had the same trouble with my 2001 Elantra over the life of the car.
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Car is a 2007 elantra, auto trans. this car is not on hand and is not my car - i will be able to do some testing when i get the chance at some point.
this is an intermittent problem which makes diagnosis difficult. when the car is turned off, sometimes the doors will not lock and the door chime keeps going - if the doors are open or not.
Suspected that a pin switch in the ignition might be sticking (had this with my old accent) so some graphite lubricant was used to try and loosen it up. idea is that it might think the key is still in the ignition. didn't seem to do much.
What I recently found out was that it seems the car needs to be started again and then shut down to reset this fault. what i'm suspecting now after going over the wiring schematics is that the body control module (BCM) may be faulty - such as a relay sticking inside it. appears that the door chime is integrated into this part making testing even more fun.
The difficult part of this is that not only is this car on on hand to do some testing, but i have almost no information on the logic input/output of the BCM...so even bench testing might not be possible.
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I have a 2013 F350 CC 6.7L Lariat. The last two days I have been getting the Driver's Door Ajar warning coming on every time I get in the truck. Sometimes it will go off by itself, other times it wont. If I lowly push the door shut, just before the door latches completely closed the light will go off. But as soon as the door closes completely the light comes back on.
I tried squirting WD40 in the lock mechanism as recommended in some older posts for other models. No worky! I searched Fordparts.com, but cannot find a listing for the door ajar switch. Where to find the switch for this warning light?
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My driver's side and passenger side door handles squeak when using them to close or open the door. Its kind of an annoying issue which surprised me due to the quality and fit and finish on the rest of the car. The door handles do NOT make noise when driving the car, only when I grab and squeeze and close or open the door. I will be taking it to my dealer's service centre at my earliest convenience to see if they can remedy the issue.
Here's a short video to show you what I'm experiencing. I am squeezing the door handle a little more aggressively for the purpose of the video but I'm not being rough. [URL]....
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I drive a 2013 Elantra Limited. I cannot open the Driver side rear door from inside. I am hoping its a quick thing to enable this?
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I just noticed the other night that it seems like the door lock switches on the driver side near the power window switch does not illuminate in the dark....is this just my car or are they all like that?
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Limited and have noticed a rattle in the front driver's door area near the Dash. It's hard to pinpoint where exactly it is coming from. The rattle can be heard even on smoothish roads and sounds like a little screw or something else is loose or rubbing against something. I checked that sunglasses holder and made sure nothing was in there but the rattle is still there.
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What is the physical location of the door chime on a 2010 GTI? Is it under the dash or behind the gauge cluster?
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On a 2011 RX450h, is it possible to disable the door chime when the drivers door is opened but the car is in accessory mode (i.e. not running)?
Since I just got the RX I've been playing a lot with the settings and audio presets. With the drivers door open the chime just continues forever and I cannot find any option to turn off the chime when in accessory mode.
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