Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Dome Light Did Not Come On When Unlock Car With Key?
Jun 15, 2013
Just got home from work and had to return to my car. Noticed the dome lights did not come on when I unlocked the car with my key. Figured maybe i had turned them off by mistake. Tried to flip the switch over but nothing. Turned the ignition on and the lights came on. Turned them off and on and seemed fine. Turned off the ignition they turned off. I tried trouble shooting the issue. Locked the car with the fob and unlocked. No lights. Turned on and off the car and repeated. Still no lights.
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Nothing is more annoying to me than constant rattles and noises in a vehicle. My 2012 Limited Elantra makes a couple of noises that are really annoying. The first is a constant light rattle the seems to come from the dome light area or the sunroof. I haven't been able to pinpoint it, but it drives me nuts. The other noise comes from the back doors area, or maybe the pillars. It happens on both sides, but mostly on the drivers side, and it only happens when the car goes over certain bumps, or when I take a curve a certain way. It almost sounds like a cracking noise. I've heard of glove compartment rattles, but that doesn't seem to happen with my car.
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So I've had my elantra (2013) for 3 months. Today I notice when I unlocked the doors, the interior lights didn't come on. When I tried to turn them on nothing happened. Then I tried turning the car on and they all came on. Then I turned the car off and the interior lights didn't turn on when I pulled out the key like they normally do. Then I tried opening the door, and the lights didn't turn on like they normally do when I open the door.
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I have changed bulb and got flicker then nothing?
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Just picked up an '07 5spd & noticed that the dome light doesn't work. no biggie, but then found that the dash lights don't work at all. When I turn the lights on the backlighting for the window switches comes on, as do all the running lights. The odometer & clock backlight properly dim out, but the dash & heat/fan control lights are dead. dimmer dial on the left panel has no effect. dash cluster fuse is good. If I can't get the dealer to fix it (only had it two days).
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I own a Hyundai Elantra 2015 SE, and was wondering if it has a door lock/unlock beeping sound. It doesn't beep at the moment when I lock and unlock it. I don't know if there is a setting or something. I've tried looking in the owner's manual, but found nothing.
I personally think it's a nice feature and would love to have it enabled in my car.
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For the second time in two years I have come out and found my dome light on.
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I just installed the Hyundai factory Remote Engine Start in my 2011 Elantra GLS and have a problem that the hazard lights come on and stay on when unlocking/unarming the car. To repeat, this is the genuine Hyundai Accessory Remote Start/Security kit (3X056 ADU00), not a third party offering. Everything that the kit is supposed to do, WORKS as specified, including remote start. The only problem is that when I use the key fob to unlock/disarm the system, the emergency flashers/hazard lights come on and stay on until I turn them off from the inside or until I toggle lock/unlock for the key fob a few times.
I've been through the wiring a dozen times, and am absolutely certain that the kit is wired correctly -- again all features work. Now, I find it interesting that NONE of the wiring of the kit (based on the schematic) comes close to touching a circuit that is identified as hazard/flashers! I even temporarily disconnected all four leads from the kit that go to the front headlamp circuits and rear tail lamp circuits -- and the hazards STILL CAME on when unlocking. This is telling me that there is an indirect/unintended "connection" between the kit and the triggering of the hazard circuit.
The kit is clearly the correct one for the car, and the car has the right equipment for the kit (i.e. No Smart Key, has auto transmission, power windows, power locks, etc). Why the hazard lamps come on when I click the keyfob to unlock the car?
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I walked out to get the paper the other morning and saw the faint light inside my car. I had been out the night before playing around with my new Engine Link toy. I have read many posts about this and having to jump the battery to get it started.
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Gen III base model. I think i read somewhere from the manual saying that the dome light suppose to shut off automatically after 20 minutes. But not in my case. My kids always left the dome light on and I checked one hour later it was still on. Or must be swtich off manually?
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Have had a 2012 Prius Four for about one year with no problems. Within last several weeks, it started to go dead (no power, but charged batteries) intermittently after normal park and shutoff. Frequency of this issue has increased.
The only way to revive the car seems to be to turn on the rear dome light. Once the dome light is turned on, the Nav screen turns blue saying "System Downloading, do not turn off power" and car starts and runs fine. I've tried to keep track of circumstances when it happens and have not been able to determine any commonalities (hot/cool weather, solar recirculator on/off, short/long trip, dry/wet day).
The battery is charged and appears to maintain a charge as well as when it does restart, the battery is showing good charge 60-90%.
Car clock time will be off by as long as it sat without power (again indicating that the entire car is going dead).
It has happened immediately after turning off (I find out because I can't use key fob or touch to lock the doors).
It has happened while car was unattended (car locked, left and came back several hours later and can't get into car without manual key unlock, clock was off by about the same time I was away from it).
Front cabin lights, pressing brake and power button, headlights, radio, door locks, etc...none of it will re-enable the power. Except the dome light for back seat.
When it's in this no power state, just switch the dome light on and the car comes back to life (still needs started with normal procedure). I didn't believe my wife until I had this happen to me multiple times in the last week as I drove it to troubleshoot it.
What is causing my electrical gremlin. I'm thinking maybe a flaky relay. Makes no sense to me why the dome light would trip something to start up again. Worried that the dome light trick won't work one of these times.
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I studied various email threads about replacing the internal light bulbs with led and I was able to replace all but the front dome light (not yet attempted rear dome). When I tried removing the front dome panel using a credit card I couldn't insert it. On the side toward the sunroof there is enough room to insert the credit card but it has only one tab. The other sides are so tight that I couldn't get the credit card in.
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So I locked my keys in the truck and road side assistance pried the door with the hand pump airbag. After which the dome light won't turn off. The drivers door which they pried remains open about 2mm more then the passage light but if I lean on it the light still dosent shut off. This is a 2010 ford ranger. What I should try/check first?
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On our 2013 Prius II, it seems there are no options to switch off the rear dome light for the 2nd row seating without affecting the front -- the rear dome switch is only 2-positions (ON or ON w/doors) instead of 3 like most dome lights are (like the front). The problem for us is that we have a baby that rides in the back and when baby is asleep and we come home guess what happens.
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I did a search and read the manual but I can't seem to figure it out. Is there a way to unlock all of the doors by pushing the unlock button on the key fob once? I see in the manual it can be done I think by turning "remote 2 - press unlock" on in the car settings but it doesn't seem to work. Also am I reading correctly that there are no door unlock sensors on the rear doors? With my LS and my old IS I could touch the rear doors and all of the doors would unlock but this can't be done on the GX?
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Hyundai Elantra 2011... My issue occurred just yesterday on a highway at speeds above 65 mph. I initially noticed my traction control light blinking upon light acceleration but with no noticeable loss in traction.
I continued with caution. About 5 minutes later, the light now was blinking regardless of the amount of acceleration. I found I could push the accelerator to the floor with no added power and my speedometer was dropping below 55 mph.
Being a busy highway, I had to very quickly get to the side of the road as my car dropped to dangerous speeds in the middle of the highway. Had I no shoulder or outlet, I could've been in serious trouble.
The situation resolved itself with a simple shut down, restart of the vehicle. But it makes me very concerned why the error in the computer occurred in the first.
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After having a 2007 Sonata with 172k miles I purchased a 2015 Elantra Sport on Saturday 4.11.15. After 3 day, my malfunction light came on. I called the dealership and I will taking it in on Saturday.
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I'm due to leave at 6am sharp on Friday morning for that pre-planned surprise 50th Bday celebration I've been talking about for my wife. This evening I get in the Elantra to pick her up and when I started the car it began to shake VIOLENTLY, like I was in a commercial dough mixer. WTF!?? I saw the check engine light was on so I shut it off immediately. Curiously, I had the car out earlier without incident.
I restarted the car and it ran smoothly this time, but the check engine light remained. Calling the dealer, I was able to get a 9am appointment for tomorrow morning. I don't have an OBD-II scan tool to check the codes, but based on the symptoms, and recent poor gas mileage.
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Recently my 2011 Elantra GLS with ~32k miles started acting weird. The ECO light would only come on intermittently, and the ECU had a pending code stored (P0711).
Last weekend on the way back from a trip to Austin, the ECO light just stopped coming on completely. The next day the "check engine" light lit up. I also noticed the transmission was shifting harshly.
P0711 is a fault with the transmission temperature sensor circuit.
Took it into the dealer yesterday, they said it's a known issue and there's a Technical Service Bulletin ( TSB ) on it. They replaced the transmission temperature sensor and wiring harness for it. They also updated the ECU firmware to the most recent version. All under warranty, so cost to me is $0.00
If see the P0711 code and/or check engine light, just have the dealership take care of it.
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So the check engine light on my '12 with 5K miles came on 2 days ago. Called to make an appointment at the dealer for tomorrow...and today it goes off. Is it relatively safe to fore go the appointment and see what happens? I don't think it was related to the gas cap.
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I just noticed today that the top part of one of the LED strips on my 2014 Elantra was out. I don't even know how to change the bulbs for these or if it's even possible. The car only has 22k miles on it so it's kind of concerning that an OEM led would burn out this fast. Should I take it to the dealer and ask them to replace it or is this something I can do myself? Am I SOL?
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