Back on February 14th ,I had my 2013 elantra gls towed to the service dept for arching and a rough idle. It was a code for #3 cylinder and a cleaning of the coils. Everything was good until again this morning ,only this time the engine light is on with all the same symptoms. There is 14,800 mile on it, I hope they get it right this time because it is a PITA to work this around my schedule at work.
View 7 RepliesCode: P0303 Misfire on cylinder #3.
Swapped coil from cylinder #3 to cylinder #6 and fuel injector from #3 to #2.
Shows misfire is still on #3. Plug looks normal tan brown.
#3 is the middle cylinder closest to the firewall I take it.
Ok, here's the issue, I've cleaned the inside and outside of the windshield with Windex atleast 3 times and it still has a hazy, hand oil smeary, appearance to it. I've also used Invisible Glass with same results.
View 35 RepliesReplaced plugs and coils after I got a misfire on cylinder 2. (cheap made in china coil packs off of autoparts warehouse)
Also, plugs had 30k miles on them with original packs. Got it again.
Replaced coil on cylinder 2. Got it again.
Bought Denso double platinums. Got it again.
Moved coil packs around. Misfire on cylinder 4.
Checked plugs, good dry non corroded. Its always 2 or 4.. not 1 or 3
Slow drive with less than 30% gas pedal action it runs "ok". If I go uphill or need to step on it, not happening. Bucks like a mule.
I dont think its the fuel injector... Ordered the red audi packs off europaparts. Might need to check connections. what do i do?
I've been also reading that it could be the cam follower. I'm willing to check it and then force the dealer to fix it under the extended warranty, but if its broken I cant put it back in. The dealer is 50 miles from me.
It happened a morning I was out of gas and used .... regular! But did put in super right after that. I had spare regular gas in a container (fresh) for the generator.
Then used fuel additives. I have also been using fuel additives every other fill up just to protect injectors. I know it wont do anything other than that because of direct injection.
So on Thursday night I replaced all of the plugs and boots on my 01 v10. I used Autolite 103's and Autolite boots. On Saturday the truck threw a code for cylinder 8. I bought a bag of 8 used coils off a buddy who has a mustang buy a few months ago so I put one on, cleared the code and the miss went away. On the way home tonight the truck started missing hard, but no CEL. I use torque, so i did a scan anyway and it pulled a code for cylinder 7. I haven't been out to troubleshoot yet. Could I have done something wrong for 2 coils to go in such a short amount of time? I followed the write up in the tech folder. Used proper torque specs, dielectric grease, and anti-seize on everything.
View 6 Replies2003 hyundai accentra and I have trouble code P0303 misfire detected cylinder 3 the car would run rough and hesitate at idle and run rough in drive and reverse I checked the plug gap on number 3 cylinder and it was excessive so I regapped it and put back and the car run good for about a day and now the engine light is back and is running rough and hesitating.
View 1 RepliesMake: Hyundai
Model: Accent
Year: 2007
Mileage: 70K
I've added Mystery Oil into my gas tank to clean fuel injectors as a maintenance precaution. I added it to a full tank of gas, when the gas tank was on low and I needed to get more gas, the check engine light came on.
The car was diagnosed with CEL reader from Autozone, misfire in cyl 3 is what the guy said. 3 full gas tanks later, it still has the same code and the car idles rough, hesitates and only seems to behave normal under medium to full throttle at higher RPMs.
I've been reading online for similar issues, as well as asking my friend who works as a mechanic at a dealership. Everyone seems to be accepting this behavior as normal and suggesting to wait out a couple of more gas tanks for the fuel injector cleaner to burn through.
I've looked at the spark plugs. 1,2, and 4 cylinder spark plugs have normal wear and tear. #3 has black build up, which corresponds with online pictures of rich mixture misfire.
I'm looking for a repair manual on another thread on this forum so I can take the injector from cylinder #3 out and look at it.
Well, I have a big problem on prius 3, the problem is that it has a big and I mean a big body shake when I decelerate above 30 mph or slowly accelerate above 30 to 50-70 mph, when I fully accelerate, the body shake disappears. When the body shake occurs MIL comes blinking and DTC P0304 comes but not always, but the shake is only when the coolant is hot.
On the other hand, if the MIL is not on with the tester it can be seen that the cylinder 4 has misfire margin, only cylinder 4, every time. Now what I have done is to exchange the injectors, problem remains on cyl4.
-replaced the coils, problem remains on cyl4,
-clean the EGR, problem remains on cyl4,
-opened the engine to see the valves, cylinders, pistons, exchanged the ring set,problem remains on cyl 4,
Replaced the wheels, the problem is still there, now I want to replace the drive shafts.
I have a 2010 accent GL manual sedan. It has 104,962 KM on it, the warranty expired December 18, 2015. Since February this car has become a frustrating money pit. Being in the dealership constantly for repairs, then within a week something else 'happens' and back it goes. Spent almost $5000 in 4 months on repairs. Decided that's enough and will do majority of repairs myself.
Yesterday while drive on the highway I had a sudden loss of power and a check engine light came on. My scanner which has become a standard item in my glove box indicated a misfire on cylinder 2 - P0302. I limped the car home, in 3rd gear I was having a hard time staying above 2000rpm at 60km/h. at lights I had to use hand brake so I could keep my foot on accelerator, revs were dropping below 300.
Today I replaced all the plugs (all 4 were still in good or better condition, #2 showed signs of a slightly rich burn and #3 a slightly lean burn), replaced all coil boots (no cracks, no burns, and still pliable), removed and cleaned all the injectors. Error code P0302 persists.
Unfortunately I've neglected changing the spark plugs in a while. I've done so now with NGK iridiums. But still throwing the code. Thought it may be the ignition coil next. Swapped the current coils around to see if the code would change and no such luck. Erase the code and it still comes up as P0304.
View 5 Replies I recently bought my 2010 gti used with 62k miles on it about 3weeks ago. The car had an carbonio intake stage 1 and a stage 1 tune from Apr when I had bought it. On the test drive and for the first two weeks I had it I did not have any problems. A few days ago on a cold start my car threw an MIL and it was flashing. When I got to school I plugged it into the obd2 scanner. Code read P0303: misfire cylinder 3 detected.
My teacher and I went over possibilities of the misfire. Coil pack, plugs , injector, valve float( even tho this should not occur at 1300rpm cold start) we also thought that maybe because the car is direct injection the valve was not closing all the way due to carbon build up on the top of my valves which in this case I'm glad I don't have an interference head. I moved around the coil packs. What is the cause of this? I'm only misfiring at start and when the engine isn't warms up to operating temp.
Just replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
View 3 RepliesMy CEL came on the other day, so I plugged in my scanner. It came up with P0456, saying "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak)."
I double checked the gas cap, and it was on correctly. I saw on an OBD code website that the repair urgency is low, but I'm not comfortable with a leak in my fuel system, no matter where it is.
Recently my 2011 Elantra GLS with ~32k miles started acting weird. The ECO light would only come on intermittently, and the ECU had a pending code stored (P0711).
Last weekend on the way back from a trip to Austin, the ECO light just stopped coming on completely. The next day the "check engine" light lit up. I also noticed the transmission was shifting harshly.
P0711 is a fault with the transmission temperature sensor circuit.
Took it into the dealer yesterday, they said it's a known issue and there's a Technical Service Bulletin ( TSB ) on it. They replaced the transmission temperature sensor and wiring harness for it. They also updated the ECU firmware to the most recent version. All under warranty, so cost to me is $0.00
If see the P0711 code and/or check engine light, just have the dealership take care of it.
Few weeks ago.....Prius was showing the P0505 code .... Mechanic, ran diagnostics and determined it was dirty TB. Cleaned TB.....cleared the code (inspected PCV...hoses).
When I initially picked it up it was revving very high....so he hooked it back up to the scanner and did some type of "reset" for the idle (this cleared most some computer settings...back-up beep, radio stations, etc...). Everything ran fine for past 3 weeks...
Just last night..... started running rough again. What I noticed this morning ... Started it up and it ran very rough til the auto shutdown after warmup (no warning lights). Then....when I started driving slowly out of the lot...it ran "rough upon acceleration"...... Then fine at cruising speed. Same behavior at every light....rough acceleration.... fine once up to speed. Just started it up again and same behavior.....(does not die...just very rough).
I have a 2011 Elantra 1.8 automatic Gls with 133k miles. While driving approximately 70 miles per hour the car downshifted to fourth gear, and would not shift up or down. I drove the car home and found that this is called "lump mode". I checked the codes, and found P0880 tcm voltage input. I replaced the fluid temperature sensor and harness, and checked continuity through the harness. I found no problems in the harness from the tcm to the solenoid connector. I then purchased a matching tcm, but the problem persisted. If the battery cable is left off for several days the problem will disappear until the car warms up.
View 4 RepliesTrying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
View 2 Replies08 Accord. After replacing the starter and cleaning the throttle body I keep having a CEL and the P0507 code.
Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about
In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
View 4 RepliesI already paid deposit to a dealer to buy a 2012 RX350. But I just noticed there are lots of rust on the subframe and attached components at the the underside of the vehicle. I made a video, but I could not upload it due to the size of the file. I uploaded some pictures for you to see. One rust spot is on the real frame. Or there is no way to clean up the rust because the rust are already there? The mileage of the vehicle is 81,000 KM)?
View 11 RepliesWe have a 2012 RX450h and it currently has about 60500 miles. These engines are direct injected correct? If so, intake cleaning due to carbon build up?
We also have a 2008 335 and it is recommended that these direct injected cars will require some kind of cleaning at some point in time. It seems that walnut blasting is the recommended method for bmw's but I can't say that I've read anything on these Lexus forums about intake cleaning.