Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Check Engine Light Keeps Coming On After O2 Sensor Replaced
Aug 26, 2016
Check engine light came on about 2 weeks ago on my 2013 elantra gls. I went to auto zone to get it checked and they ran a p2096, which is what I had almost a year ago. That was fixed by dealer software update. So, I thought that was what needed to be done, headed to the closest Hyundai and they found p2096 and p2196. They replaced the o2 sensor bank 1, under warranty.
However, the next day the check engine light came on, less than 24 hours. Brought it back to the dealer, they said everything was within the correct "parameters" and said the light shouldn't come back on. On the way to work this morning, the check engine light came on, when the car was in the exact same spot it was yesterday.
I'm thinking the computer doesn't recognize the repair and needs to cycle a few times but I don't know. I'm so tired of going to the dealership because they are obviously missing something if the light is still on.
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I have a o3 sc430 that's driving me crazy I have replaced the 02 sensor on my car three times and the cars vsc and check engine light comes back on after driving less then a mile. If I really step on the gas it'll come on faster. Where should I look for a vacuum leak? The mechanic says it could be electrical problems too...
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You know the "mechanic's fiances truck" problem. I recently replaced the cam sensor in my 05' F250 Gas. The check engine light had been on for a while before that and my truck rode great, however I now want to sell it and I can't do that with a check engine light on. It's got about 85k miles on it.
After replacing the sensor, the light went off for about 20 miles, but it is now back on and my truck seems to miss every once in a while on acceleration or cruising. Some days it's worse than others. The check engine light still says cam sensor, but the sensor is brand new.
My fiance is a mechanic, so I don't know all the details about code numbers and such. However, I want to sell this truck pretty soon, and I would like it to run correctly. His dad (another mechanic) seems to think it could be a coil and wants to wait for that light to come on, but I would rather fix the problem and sell the truck!
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2012 Prius Gen III 38,000 miles, check engine light came on. Drove car to dealer and they came up with error code 0456. The explained that a rodent (I live in a rural area) chewed on a hose which is causing a leak like a bad fuel cap.
To solve this problem they recommend that the entire gas tank needs to be replaced. Does this seem reasonable? It seems to me they are saying that the chewed hose can not be replaced.
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I have been having some engine/electrical issues with my 2003 saab 9-3 convertible. It started with the check engine light coming on I had it diagnosed as a map 2 sensor and transmission output sensor. The light went off and the car ran fine. Now the light is back on and the engine stalls out at random times (while accelerating, at idol, and now loses power during full throttle. It bucks on the highway).
Today while losing power blue smoke comes out of the tail pipe, but only during the power loss bucking. I also notice when there is a power loss or skip/bucking the turbo needle goes into the yellow/high mark. I am going to take it to a repair shop soon but what this might be? Also sometimes while driving when the bucking/skipping/power loss happens the gear indicator light on the dash goes from drive to neutral to reverse and park intermittently.
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Just picked up a Toyota certified 2010 Prius III....less than a week later, the check engine light comes on. Took it right back to the dealer...in which they said its the air/fuel sensor. Toyota warranty services was closed, so they need to check tomorrow if its covered by the remaining warranty or not.
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While I am driving the car it will start to die and skip. Happens randomly. Today I was driving up a small hill and it went quits on me started lurching with check engine light coming on and off. The car will turn over and start, but only for a few seconds before dying again.
Seems to happen when the car is running for a while. Also the ABS light flashes on then off randomly while driving sometimes although It hasn't been an issue. Will be checking tomorrow to see if it starts.
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I have a 2004 standard Elantra GT. I had to get an emissions test and the CEL light will not stay off. My garage replaced two valves in the fuel tank and the neck to the tank and have done numerous "smoke tests" but can't find the leak. Now they are saying there is something wrong with the computer. They got it to stay off long enough to pass the test, but the light's on again. I see that there was a recall issued because of the cracked exhaust manifold, I think I had the catalytic converter replaced up at the cottage.
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I'm due to leave at 6am sharp on Friday morning for that pre-planned surprise 50th Bday celebration I've been talking about for my wife. This evening I get in the Elantra to pick her up and when I started the car it began to shake VIOLENTLY, like I was in a commercial dough mixer. WTF!?? I saw the check engine light was on so I shut it off immediately. Curiously, I had the car out earlier without incident.
I restarted the car and it ran smoothly this time, but the check engine light remained. Calling the dealer, I was able to get a 9am appointment for tomorrow morning. I don't have an OBD-II scan tool to check the codes, but based on the symptoms, and recent poor gas mileage.
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So the check engine light on my '12 with 5K miles came on 2 days ago. Called to make an appointment at the dealer for tomorrow...and today it goes off. Is it relatively safe to fore go the appointment and see what happens? I don't think it was related to the gas cap.
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I just bought a used 2011 Elantra GLS and am having some issues that the dealer cant resolve. What is happening is the the Check Engine light comes on and off. It will be on for a day or so, then go off for a day or so, so I am thinking its the gas cap. So I tighten that thing up as good as I can and pulled the negative battery terminal and problem solved. About 2 days later, and about 200 miles later on the same tank of gas, the light pops back on. So I call the dealer and took it there the next day.
On my way to the dealer, the light goes out. They try and pull the code, but the ECU is showing nothing. I asked if the ECU stores codes and I was told that when the light goes out on its own it clears the ECU of the code. Not sure if that is true, but that is what I was told. So I drive the car home. I fill the car with gas, drive about 100 miles and the light comes on. I call the dealer the same day, take it over, and on the way like the car knows it goes off and guess what? Dealer cant do nothing.
Now to make a long story longer, this is what I know. The car is not a CA car. It was sold in GA and was a prior rental. It ended up in CA and was sold as a certified pre owned from a Hyundai Dealer, I actually bought the car from a Mitsubishi Dealer and they dealer traded for this car (thats another long story) the carfax does show that it failed emissions but passed after several attempts. Which I thought was odd on a ULEV vehicle. Since I liked the car so much and the price was good, I bought it since it did pass smog eventually.
Once I get the car home, I do my usual thorough look. I clean everything to my standards. I am cleaning the engine compartment and took the engine cover off. 1st thing I noticed was the Spark Plug Coil Packs all the 10mm bolts that hold them in were loose and 2 of them were completely off!! So I decided thats odd, so I pulled the plugs out and they were the NGK's so just in case I put a brand new set of the NGK laser Iridiums back in and tighten everything up. Then I notice where the PCV valve is on the valve cover, the hose that goes to that to the intake tube does not look stock. The hose looks like fuel line hose that someone put on it and the clamps are not stock. So I am canvasing for OEM replacements of those parts now. Then when I was installing the mud guards, on the drivers side rear tire where the gas filler tube is I notice another non OEM clamp. So someone was messing with this area of the car too.
The car is averaging 26-28mpg's in the city and I have been getting 35-37mpg's highway so I don't think there is anything major wrong here. I believe that either the PCV valve hose is kinked and may be causing a fault, or that since it was a prior rental that people were over filling the gas tank and maybe blew the expansion valve in the gas tank, causing the fault. I have no way to prove this since the light goes on and off and clears the ECU every time I take it in.
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I have a 2015 Hyundai Elantra Limited. Lately, the check Engine light comes on when I accelerate from a full stop and stays on for 3-5 seconds. It has also happened when I accelerate to get on the interstate (that just started today). There is no issue with the car accelerating. Everything else seems to be fine. It's just the Check Engine light that is freaking me out a bit. I've had the car since June so I'm not ready for any major issues. It started two days ago. I took the gas cap off and put it back on last night to see if that was the cause but it's still happening today.
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So I got gas 4 days ago and today the check engine light came on afterwards. Went to auto zone to read code and it had to do with the gas pressure being slightly low (gas cap). So I got gas and resealed the gas cap. Well, it's been about 2 days since then and it hasn't gone off. Does it need to be reset or does it take more time?
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS with almost 200k on it. I am the original owner. I have only had a few small problems with it just replacing lights and had to replace the passengers side wheel bearing twice. the rest has just m=been replacing wear and tear parts. the check engine light is on because it needs 02 sensors. They are back ordered. The car started idling roughly and driving horribly on the way from Rhode Island to New York on Christmas day. A friend had a diagnostic machine and the code read misfire cylinder 3 p0303..I am assuming it damaged the catalytic converter and that I now need both the sensors and the convertor. I live about 7 miles from my garage. should I tow it ? or drive a t a low speed? Have to bring it in first thing in the morning. What else could be wrong?
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So as my first post was about all the upgrades/mods I wanted to get recommendations on, it saddens me that my second is about my check engine light.
I've noticed for the past week a little bit more of a "bump" when accelerating into gear. This Friday, coming home from work the check engine light came on. Checked the oil and gas cap, everything seems ok. I'm taking it into the dealership tomorrow and will update with their findings.
I'm worried cause I would never imagine the light to come on so soon. The car is barely two months old!
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In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
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I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
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Elantra GT 2003 ... I had engine check light on and OBD 2 code reader showed DTC P1529 and P0705. I erased the codes to see if they comes back and one month later I have same codes back. P0705 indicates Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, so probably I should check range sensor. How the range sensor looks alike and where to find it. Where can I find it?
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I have the infamous P0461 check engine light coming up. I filled it with Techron and even purchased Techron additive with a full tank and it's not going away. I've also replaced gas cap with OEM brand new yesterday and light keeps coming on after 2-10 miles.
Truck is stock. Bone stock. The fuel gauge is reading accurately and not fluctuating or jumping or behaving erratically. I checked all fuses and all fuses are good (under dash and on floor in cabin).
2010 f250 lariat 5.4 V8 4x4 super cab 189,XXX miles.
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A little less than a month ago the "check engine light" came on and I panicked. Lit up orange, not red and it was flashing, just a stagnant orange check engine light. I tried do some research and found that the gas cap was the majority reason why it tends to go on.
I checked my gas cap, and I thought it seemed lose by what it seemed like a simple screw off. So I screwed it back on and made sure I heard the couple clicks. After about 2-3 runs and turning the car on and off the light disappeared.
The next day, was driving and it came back on. I didn't even mess with the gas cap. Over the next period of days, it turned off, then turned on again.
I have a check engine light that doesn't know what it wants to do.
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Our 2005 prius has logged 170,000 miles (we purchased it used with 90,000) and this is the first time we've ever ran into any issues with it, love the car. Well, a few weeks ago the check engine light came on and we just happened to have an emissions inspection that week, which was failed because the check engine light was on (they didn't even test the exhaust).
After taking it to a local dealer to see what the check engine light was all about, they came back and told us it was related to the Coolant Heat Storage system and that the CHS temperature sensor would need to be replaced. They also told us that the water pump had a minor leak and would need to be replaced. Another non-related but related issue is that the driver side wheel liner was ripped out when my wife decided some off-roading... and after seeing where the CHS is located this might be a factor.
Could low coolant levels (related to the water pump leak) be causing the CHS temp sensor alarm? I'm making an appointment with the dealer to have water pump replaced (or may DIY if the job isn't too bad), I'm just wondering if I should hold off on the CHS related parts until that has been fixed. I checked all the connections and everything seems good, no corrosion yet. The temp sensor is on the front side of the tank so it wouldnt be getting splashed too much by the wheel even without the liner.
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