Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Car Won't Stop Stalling After Running Out Of Gas And Filled Up
Apr 22, 2015
2015 Elantra, 3100km. I was running low on gas, but had 50km left on the "range". About 500 meters from the gas station I ran out of gas. I started up again and made it to the pumps and stalled.
Once I filled up, it took a while to get the car started. Once it did it stalled whenever I drove and slowed down. I can start the car in neutral (it's a manual) but when I go to drive it stalls. Engine light is on.
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So when I first got my car, the dealer had put in a full tank of gas and the miles to empty range was at 347~. After several fill ups since my purchase, the miles to empty has been dropping every time I filled up. A few fill ups ago, I remember it was 327. The latest fill up was about 318. What gives? Do the current MPG avg affect this number? What is the factor for the variance?
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I just started to have some idle problems with my 2013 Elantra GLS auto 1.8 that has 10k miles.
I went to the gas station to fill up the tank since the gas was very low (30 mile range). I filled up the tank, started the car and the engine began to stumble and idle poorly like it was about to stall. I put the car in drive and the engine stalled. I restarted the car and it ran normally.
The car will now briefly idle poorly when I'm at a stop light. The car will be at a stop light idling and running normally. Suddenly, the tach will go down to 200 rpm and then up to 1200 rpm, like it is about the stall. Then it will idle steadily and be back to normal. This has happened about three times over the past two weeks.
What may be causing this intermittent idle problem?
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I have a 07 Elantra, with 300k km. most times coming to a stop it will almost stall with a few maybe 1 in 10 will actually stall if I would let it. I can control this with not actually stopping, but almost stopping, and let my foot off the brake slightly and let it move ahead slowly before coming to a complete stop. I have searched the Internet for quite a while and all I could ever find was try shifting to neutral when stopping. If I shift to neutral there is absolutely no sign of stalling, but they never said what it would be or how to fix it. Other than the stalling or almost stalling upon stopping, it idles perfectly and always starts right back up and runs fine.
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2001 hyundai elantra. Car is almost stalling randomly at stop lights. Low rpms under 500 and stops. Sometimes drops to 100 rpms then shoots up to 500 right before it might stall. Engine light came up got misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 with codes p0440 and u0d00.
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2 questions regarding our 2001 F150 Supercrew. My 2 questions are:
My 2001 Ford F150 Supercrew (5.4L, 230,000 miles)has the check engine light on with the code reader telling me that it is the P0174. The truck would run rough when cold (usually in the mornings) and sometimes it would get close to stalling out when coming to a stop light. So we would quickly put it in park and give it some gas to rev it up a bit. After the truck gets warmed up, it runs great with no hint of the rough idle. Since this all started I have changed out the PCV valve and replaced the PCV hose (including the elbow). I have also replaced the Idle Air Control unit but that didn't really make a difference.
We then experienced a cylinder #4 misfire which we resolved by changing out the cop with a new Motorcraft unit. The misfire went away but we still had the problem of running rough at idle to the point of stalling out at stops when the engine is cold. A few weeks ago we cleaned the MAF sensor and that seemed to work. The truck doesn't run as rough now (when cold) at stop-lights, but occasionally it will still have the loping idle. We cleared the check engine code and it stayed off for about a week before returning.
I don't know what else to check other than trying to see if there is some type of vacuum leak, but I don't have access to a smoke machine nor would I know how or where to hook one up. Removing and cleaning the throttle body would work? What could be causing the trouble, or what I should do to further isolate or troubleshoot the problem? I saw a you-tube video on the F150 intake manifold gasket possibly being the problem and although I hope that isn't the trouble with my truck, if it is then I will have to deal with it. We need the truck to get to work and the car is now due for a registration renewal, but we can't get a California smog certificate with the check engine light on.
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I bought a certified 2011 Elantra GLS about a week and a half ago. Previously a one owner lease with just under 27k on it.
While driving to work this morning I was stopped on a slight incline in traffic. When traffic started to move I gave the car a tiny bit of gas and the car stalled. I could only move the gear to Neutral. However, when I did, the car started right back up.
I don't think it was a low gas issue as I have about 3/4 of a tank in there.
When I got to work I drove super slowly around the parking lot and was able to replicate the stall multiple times. It seems when giving it barely any gas the car stalls out. It happens at 1000 RPM and I think it's when it's trying to decide to shift into 2nd or stay in 1st. Again, I was moving super slow (< or around 5mph) while barely pressing on the gas.
Is this something "normal" where enough gas just isn't getting pushed through? Is it something I should mention when I take my car into them Saturday to get detailed?
I did notice once or twice in the past week sitting at a light that I thought it was idling a little rougher than it should have been but it didn't really concern me as much. But now with this stall now I'm questioning everything (paranoid).
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I have a 2010 Equinox with about 52000 miles on it. At about 48,000 I took it in for the 50G maintenance. The car ran with a fluttery sound that I did not really notice until it was brought to my attention. Recently the car began running rough and stalling when idling. there were no warning or indicator lights lit. I had OnStar run a remote diagnostic and they said there were no codes. The day after the diagnostic the check engine light went on , while at the same tie the rough idle and stalling went away.
I brought the car in for service at the dealer. They said that the car had several codes indicating low oil and the car was down 2 quarts but there was no leak. They also said the noise I heard was the timing belt. The noise is gone after the service and the car is running smoothly. Coincidentally, or not, I got a notice from GM saying they were changing the oil monitoring software on the 2010 Equinox to recommend me frequent oil changes.
1) What could cause the car to loose 2 quarts of oil over less than 6000 mile? Is this normal or an Equinox problem.
2) Would low oil cause the timing belt to make a noise.
3) Do I have a lemon and am I being ripped off y the dealer?
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When first drove the new Elantra, I stalled it more than should. At first I figured I was just new to the feel of the clutch, and not in tune with the hints of RPM given by the motor's sound, etc.
A couple of times after stalling, I pulled the shifter to a middle neutral, and then back in 1st, and now it really felt like it was in 1st. Eventually, I developed a quirky habit of shifting out of 1st to neutral and back to 1st every time I stopped. My kids commented on it and they don't even drive.
A couple of times I've cautiously done this test, and it proved my suspicion. Suppose you are coasting at a speed of around 40 mph or 60 kph, and intend to come to a stop ahead. I typically push the clutch in and coast, then brake. Somewhere along the coast to stop, I will also put the gear into 1st. I've discovered that if the gear shift is put into 1st while the coast speed is sufficiently high, the actual gear selected is 3rd. Then, when you start to pull away from the stop, the engine stalls.
If anyone tries to reproduce this shift into 3rd when 1st was intended while still coasting, be careful and let out the clutch slowly at the early part of the release so you will get a hint from the engine RPMs what gear it is heading toward. I don't want to be responsible for wear and tear on your transmission/engine or accidents. I've only attempted this test on a road with no traffic, myself.
Although what I am claiming sounds wacky, I think it is possible, given that transmissions over the years have been moving towards electronic rather than physical linkage.
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We had some unusually warm weather and a lot of rain. After work I was driving home in my 2012 elantra limited and stalled in some flash flood water. This was not deep enough to come into the car. When I hit the water the splash went in the intake and I stalled out. I pushed the car out of the water, waited a few and tried to start it. I have the push button ignition so it clicked 3 times and did not turn the motor over. I then saw and smelled electrical smoke. All my lights, radio, windows everything work. I fried the starter which I determined by removing and having it tested. I ordered a new one from the dealer.
I took the intake apart and removed as much water as I could. I ran the shop heater all night to dry up whatever water in the motor bay that I could. Then a couple weeks passed waiting on the starter to come in. It's gotten cold and I'd imagine whatever water may be in it froze. The day I got the starter I ran the shop heater again 12+ hours and drained the oil out. No real water to speak of. I also removed the plugs and attempted to turn the motor by hand via the crank and I can only get about a quarter turn in either direction. When I put the new starter in it does the same. Cranks the motor a split second and seizes. Is there something I'm missing? How could I have tied up the motor from a water accident? Is there something else electrical I may have ruined that would prevent the motor from turning freely?
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I have a 2011 Elantra Limited with 63k miles on it. My car started with having troubles starting after filling up with gas, then it moved to about once every 25 times I started my car, the tachometer wouldn't turn on, and the car would have poor drivability shifting gears. Now it has progressed to stalling at stop lights. It has only done it when the car is warm and I'm stopped at longer lights. Will just die, but can be restarted after a couple tries. However on restart, the tachometer doesn't work and again with poor shifting. I typically have to turn off the road and stop my car and start it again and it's fine.
I just had a new battery as well as new spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced. Car dealership cannot recreate problem so they say there is nothing they can do.
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I have a 2006 Town and Country with the 3.3L V6. The last four times I filled the gas tank the engine spits and sputters after running for 2 - 3 minutes. Sometimes it will even stall out. It will re-start after cranking for 4 - 5 seconds and then runs fine. It only does this right after I fill the tank and doesn't do it again until the next fill up. Thought that I might have water in the tank so I added a bottle of HEET to see if it would cure the problem, no effect at all..
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When I stop the car, sloshing noise come from back of 2006 Toyota Camry after filling full tank of gas. Tried couple times, I can still hear the noise feels like liquid sloshing noise coming from fuel tank. Even after I parked the car, tried to push the back side of my 2006 Toyota Camry, sounds like the fuel is sloshing from the tank. Is it normal? I never heard about this before, maybe I didn't notice. It was not loud but audible.
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Once or twice a week my car doesn't want to start. I think it is usually the second or third time I start it from the first cold start. Like I start it up leaving work and then go a couple of miles to the Whole Foods and then come out and it starts and is running but at a very low rpm and then maybe stalls or sometimes will come up to normal idle with tap on the pedal. I kill the engine at long lights so sometimes it happens then. Rarely does it cut out completely but it is annoying. It has happened pretty much since new but it was only maybe three or four times a year the first year.
I now have close to 97K miles and will be swapping out the plugs sometime soon.
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Got a set of projectors in and as another member stated, the LED bar flickers when the engine is running, but works perfectly fine when the engine is off. A 2013 owner was able to successfully install the projectors/LED using a shark racing 6-pin to 8-pin adapter. Since my 2014 is already 8-pin, I'm not sure why it's not working. He said that he removed the parking lights; I did so as shown in the video but still the same result. Doesn't look like hyperflash either.?
I have an HID kit with a capacitor coming in tomorrow from Theretrofitsource, but I'm not too sure that this will fix the problem since I don't think the LED's will be directly affected by it (right?).
Link to my problem here : View Video
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How can I turn off the day time running lights on the car? I turned the light switch to the off button but it still turns on when I drive. How do I go about to turn this off?
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I know its a normal function of the car, but has noticed when you come to a stop at a light or what not, you hear a click, like a servo or something in or near the shifter (automatic). Not worried, just would like to know what it is that clicks and why?
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My limited has lost it's low beams when the switch is set to head lights but not when set to marker lamps. They still shine at a reduced output then. I've read this may be an issue with the BCM?
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The car will be at the dealer to trouble shoot why the windshield wipers stay on when the engine is running. Will not shut off! Obvious parts replaced to no avail.
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So, I have a 2016 Elantra SE Auto w/ 26k miles, I have 1k miles life until my next oil change.
Since about Saturday, whenever I accelerate, around 3k RPM - 4k RPM it's running/ sounding really rough! Not sure what's causing that, I checked my air filter earlier that day & put it right back in, also put in some HID lights in. I thought maybe the containment cover or gasket around the filter wasn't seeded properly, but everything checks out. I'm pretty car savy, so I know this isn't normal for brand new cars. Doesn't seem like it's loosing power, I still get pretty quick throttle response when I really gas it!
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I just bought a 2013 Elantra GLS last weekend. When the engine is running at idle and I'm standing outside of the car, the engine seems to be noisy. Maybe to the point where there is a small exhaust leak somewhere. I don't notice the noise when I'm driving the car - interior noise seems normal. Is it normal for the 1.8L engine to be a bit noisy at idle? The car just turned 100 miles.
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