Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Brake Squealing After Replacing Pads?
Dec 30, 2016
Last week I replaced my stock 2016 Elantra's brake pad's with Wagner Thermoquiet another forum user recommended, came with new hardware (seats), however not new 'plates' (that are on the side of the pads), so I had to reuse the old ones which were quite dirty/ old looking. Anyway, I understand due to the old rotors being on there, I'm going to hear some unusual noise when letting off the brakes until broken in, however, squealing when I press the brakes? (Only happens at low speeds, like drive through window.) I greased all the metal components that make contact with the caliper. I NEVER experienced squealing with the old pads, & these are "supposed to be quiet & more efficient". I'm going to take the wheels off & look at them tomorrow. What I can do?
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I replaced the front brake pads the same method as a traditional car. (Popped out caliper. Pushed piston in. Put new pads in). I did not pump the brakes after installation (forgot to do so).
I drove off to test drive. A block later as I approached a stop sign, I smelled something similar to burning brakes (this might have been some of the oil I spilled when I added oil just before I left). Went to the next stop sign 100 yards away and was able to stop. Made a slow left turn and MFD displayed a warning and ABS (and maybe other ones too) light came on. I pulled over. I don't remember if the car shut itself or if I turned it off.
Now, I can not get the car started. Had car towed home with wheel lift tow truck.
Tried the following:
- Press brake, push Start: Car appears to power up then shuts down immediately. Lights appear on dash, then go out. The squares around P,N,D,R,B are the last ones to go out.
- Press start to go into ACC mode: Radio and clock power up without problems. Pressing start again results in same symptom above.
- Tried to read code with ODBII scanner: all I get is "ERROR". Appears that it's not linking.
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Ok so we just replaced our front and rear brake pads and had the rotors turned. Our rear brakes are fine but both our front brakes now make a clunking/popping noise when we brake.
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How can you tell if it is time to change brake pads without taking off the wheels on the 2012 GX460 Premium?
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Brought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
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Gen III 2010, 6800 miles. Silver. Fuzzy dice. Pads are still rattling in the calipers when I hit bump when foot is not on brake. It sounds like hell! ...like major suspension components are loose, although I know they are not. Two Toyota dealers have told me this is normal, and no danger. ...no dealer fix.
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ok, here's the story about my brake change on a 2012 elantra GLS. I changed my pads and rotors myself, he has done many brake jobs with little to no problems over he years. anyway, changed them on all four wheels and now on the drivers side there is a slight noise that happens sometimes. The noise happens once very rotation of the tire/rotor, not a constant noise. it sounds almost like the pads are hitting the rotor at a certain point and making a grind noise. the brakes seems to function properly and the noise happens only when rolling at slow speeds or when accelerating from a stop.
I have done everything properly, even used some caliper glue to hold the pads against the caliper. what my question is, is there anyway that the rotor is warped from the manufacturer? it sounds like it is warped and the pads hit it once every rotation. I have opened them up 3 times now to make sure everything is proper, even put it in drive jacked up with no wheel on it to see if its running smooth, of course it wont make the noise when jacked up.
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I changed the front brake pads, took all the precautions during the change, did not disconnect the 12 v battery, pumped the brake pedal 12 times, started the car and no warnings. Now the brake pedal is a little spongy, if I press the pedal to the floor the VSC/TRAC light comes on, to reset it I have to press on the pedal again and the brakes do work.
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I have a 2011 Elantra with about 18,000Km on it. I'm now hearing intermittent high pitch squealing when driving below 40km/hr, seems to be coming from the right side but it's hard to tell.
It tends to go away when I apply the brakes or accelerate. I doubt it's the brake pads.
I remember some time ago while servicing the car at the dealership after the first two years, they recommend to have the brakes cleaned. I opted to not do as I thought it was a cash grab.
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I have a 2016. I'm waiting on some aftermarket headlights and they will look great with LED drl/high beam. Have you installed them in this location ? I'm worried about fitment with the led being too big to fit in there.
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About 6 weeks ago I noticed a noise coming from the front driver side wheel area. We had just gotten the tire rotated and once at freeway speed it was like a squealing noise, just like when you have worn brakes. Since then the squealing noise is gone and now it's a faint (hard to describe over text) "whomp whomp" noise as if I have off-road tires. I notice it more on freeways I supposed because it's a smoother straighter surface. On a particular right bending street by our house it's louder. What it might be? Car has 36k miles.
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I recently purchased a new (to me) 2010 prius and I've been noticing that sometimes, but not always, I hear a fairly loud noise when lifting my foot off the brake pedal. It sounds like a squeak or squeal, and I want to say I can almost feel a tiny bit of resistance in the pedal when it happens though that could be in my head. The noise does NOT occur when pushing down on the pedal (only when lifting), and it seems to only occur when the car is stopped.
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I replaced the drivers side CV axle due to the fact my wife and I both heard the famous clicking sound when turning left, I inspected the CV axle and it looked to be in good shape, no tears or rips but I replaced it anyways and now I am hearing and feeling a knocking sound (seems to be coming from the inner shaft, but not positive) when I am driving. It is also vibrating the steering wheel.
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A week ago my brakes started squealing badly. This past weekend I pulled off the offending tire to take a look and sure enough the squeeler is riding on the rotor so it looks like I need to replace the brakes at 53,000km.
The rotors look good so I plan to only replace the front pads. While I am working on it, I am going to disassemble and preform the TSB on the rears as they have been neglected lately.
What pad material should I go for, metallic or ceramic? Ideally I would like something that has good performance, yet had a good life span. I occasionally pull a 2500lbs (dry weight) braked tent trailer, but that is not very often.
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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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I've replaced the pads and rotors on my 97 f250 HD, only to have constant squealing. I've replaced ranger rotors before with no problem but this has been an adventure. It's squeals constantly up to 35, (I've only went up to 35) and squeals louder under braking. Just looking for some pointers. Probably just need a good cleaning. The truck is parked until its fixed more than likely.
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I replaced my pads 3 months ago. Now I have a metal grinding sound (not squeaking). The mechanic says I need new rotors, and he will resurface the pads. I know I can replace the rotors myself; but do I need to resurface the 3 months old pads? If so; how will they resurface them?
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Thumping noise in rear passenger side. I removed pads and rotors, inspected and found nothing wrong. I decided to replace the new rotor with same and the thumping is still there, but only with the brakes being used. Nothing felt in the brake pedel and the the van stops fine. So why the thumping noise?
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i have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
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I noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
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So I have a 2002 GTI VR6 with the 24v BDF Engine. I have been having a problem with my belt squealing. It started after I replaced my water pump and crack pipe. While I was at it I replaced the belt tensioner and belt with a kit from ECS than had an aftermarket tensioner and a Conti drive belt(has 6 ribs). When starting the car up for the first time after doing the water pump I noticed the belt was squealing. It would only squeal when I gave it some good throttle.
After a few minutes it stopped squealing so I figured it was some coolant or something on the belt. Well its been a few weeks and it continues to squeal when I give it throttle, but only if the ac is on and it will only do it for a few minutes. After a few minutes of the car running or driving down the road it doesn't squeal anymore. I did make a long drive in the rain very shortly after replacing the belt and it was a really heavy rain storm. There was a lot of water on the road and my belt was squealing pretty much the whole drive if I had the ac on. I had to alternate ac on and off so I could keep the windows defogged.
After that experience I put on a set of engine splash guards from ECS. (note these guards were the ECS branded ones and were a terrible fit. Holes didn't line up with studs on bottom of frame and ended up taking the middle belly pan section out as it would hang down way too low even with the side covers connected to it.) That seemed to keep it from squealing while driving in the rain but it still squeals after first starting the cold engine with ac on.
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