Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Bouncy Suspension / Ride Over Rougher Roads
Sep 24, 2014
Find the ride on the 2013 Elantra kinda bouncy ?....I thought it might be the cheaper OEM tires, but after running winter tires, the ride was still kinda skippy/bouncy over rougher roads.....
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So I found an 03 gx one owner and only 56k Miles on it. Nice truck. I noticed right away that the rear suspension feels hard and bouncy. When I adjust the height it does work but seems to take a bit. In the Low setting feels like it is on the bump stops. Not sure where to start, sounds like the level sensors can be an issue, so I will have a look at them. Feels like it is just going to the top height to me thus making the ride really stiff. I climbed onto the rear bumper and tried to bounce the truck and it is like a rock. Like the bags are over inflated.
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2013 4dr Stage 1 w/ dog bone tranny insert, VWR springs, 29K mi. LONG time Corrado VR6 owner - new to OBD II / turbo cars.
Car just doesn't feel as "solid" as it should. I expected it to feel really buttoned down with a quiet cabin.
I hear annoying creaking type noises when going over bumps / rougher roads (even did this with stock springs) Sounds like coming from rear interior, like window seal areas.
Not sure if this is due to body flex or something else. Anything to address this? Would any kind of stabilizer bars (front strut / rear hatch / under body chassis) work? or make it worse?
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I have a 2002 sc430 with 65,000 miles. It seems to be riding rougher than usual and noisy over bumps.
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Noticed the lights jittery or bouncy when you go over bumps or imperfections on the roads. This cannot be right?
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I bought my wife a new 2014 Azera and we like it a lot but it seems to have a bounce at low speeds 0-20 mph, mainly when starting driving. It might seem to be a tire flat spot, but she only has 1,100 miles so far and it has always been there.
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I installed lowering springs (1.5 inches front and rear) on my car, 1990 Maxima, with new performance shocks, but the ride is a little bouncy at times. I know this is from the reduced travel the shocks have..even though they are stiffer than stock. Is there any way to give a little more travel? or how to give the shocks more dampening force? (besides putting the old springs on of course). Would lighter wheels/tires work? How about loosening the center nut on the strut a bit?
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Maybe it's because I've been away for two weeks and out of the RC, but when I drove for the first time in a while the car seems like it's noticeably bouncy on relatively smooth roads.
Again it could be my break from driving it. I mostly drive on Sport+ mode.
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I got my 2005 jetta gli used with about 41000 mi on it. Ever since i've had it, when i accelerate on the highway at 50 mph or faster, the car almost feels bouncy throughout, what that is.
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I just bought a 2007 ls460 with 100k miles on the car love the vehicle but I have 2 issues with it first wind noise which I will get fix after dealing with the car bouncy ride. When I first got the vehicle i didn't notice the bouncy ride it happens when going fast on freeway 60+mph over bumpy and uneven pavements. It would bounce up and down and wobble side to side like crazy where it is scary that I will lose control if I don't hold on to the steering wheel hard.
So I replace all four shocks still no fix. My mechanic said my control arms bushing are bad. So I had all 8 front control arms replaced with OEM parts. That made a big difference on the driving and handling. It doesn't bonce as much as it did but it still bounce a little and wobbles side to side but not as much. I feel like the car is not suppose to feel this way only happens on freeway at high speed over bumps. Do I need to replace my rear control arms as well for the car to not bounce and wobble.
My mechanic said there are 10 total arms in the rear 5 each side. Will this work for my ride? Or do I need to replace new springs? I don't want to spend more money than I already have on it. I did a 4 wheel alignment and my specs in front are good but my left rear camber is -2.6 degree toe is 0.16 and my right rear is -2.0 degree toe 0.10 alignment guy said that if i change my rear control arm it might support the camber.
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I have eliminated the Tie Rods and Wheel Bearings from the equation because, I feel as though the noise only comes when driving over rough roads and not when turning.
What other possible things could be causing this, the shocks? What else could I check on my own by opening the hood?
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Since around 3 days.. i hear a grinding noise, while going in some kind of streets... highways or not so good roads.. this doesn't happens when I turn the car to left or right, it happens when I am going 30mph+....
Last night I checked rear shocks.. and one of them seems to have some oil leakage I am not really sure, but it has... some wet lines above it.. so I guess that's oil...
Dealership tested the car around 15 days ago, but this weird noise wasn't present.. although they order new rear shock and springs...
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Went to sport mode again today (after TSBs) and the ride felt hard on bumpy roads, really stiff. I want to upgrade to 18's or 19's to get a better feel of the road in the summer, just want to get some input from those that have had the TSBs performed and upgrade to larger wheels as well.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6. It has about 105K miles. The suspension seems a little bouncy. I would like better handling. The car leans a lot when going around corners. I've heard that new Honda struts are not as good for handling as some other brands.
I read that I should replace the dampers and springs together to get better handling. Most of the struts I've read about lower the car, however, I don't really want to lower it. I just want better handling for everyday driving. Am I on the right track?
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I currently own a 2016 Elantra Limited and I'm at my wits end with the amount of road noise and harshness of the ride. I have already got rid of the Hankook tires and replaced them with Pirelli P7 Cinturato as many on this forum have suggested. I also replaced my rear shocks with KYBs. While both had a small effect on both the noise and harshness this car is still intolerable from a noise and harshness standpoint. When going over any bumps or joints in the road it seems as the suspension amplifies the bumps making them feel and sound bigger than they actually are.
It seems impossible that such a new vehicle can ride like this, but apparently it's a characteristic of the poorly designed suspension. When driving I can't believe how terrible the car is in this regard.
So replacing 17" rims with 15" or 16" makes noticeable difference? Or is this a hopeless case?
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I am new to Hyundai. I just bought a barely used 2011 Elantra GL Sedan - Auto. I notice that the ride is absolutely terrible - especially the rear which has from what I understand torsion bar suspension. (Didn't we stop using those on WWII Jeeps) Anyway I digress.
I notice in city any pot hole is jarring in the front and hoppy in the back. On the highway I feel like the back end gets air any time I hit a moderate pump at speeds above 90kmh (55mph). I noticed what others have noticed too, slight fishtailing or rear vibrations when braking.
Is there an issue that I'm unaware of - is this normal or is there something broken/loose. I push on the rear like I would test a normal suspension and it doesn't bounce more than once but if I hit a bump while driving it bounces three or four times?
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Been hearing a plastic sounding tapping noise when I ride over very bumpy roads. Turns out the floor panel in the trunk has some play and it's not padded. Well I wedged a towel Between the floor and the trunk lid and the tapping is gone. I was able to duplicate the sound by lifting and dropping the sliding floor in the trunk. Anyway I'm thrilled car is supple and quite over bumpy roads now. I went over every bumpy road I could find; nice and planted and quite now...
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I bought a 2015 Subaru Forester. Our test ride was on a smooth road. After buying the car, I noticed how bumpy the ride is on only slightly rough roads. Also the paint has some cracks near the door edges. Have a 2015 Subaru Forester and noticed the bumpy ride.
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I used to wonder if my engine was running when stopped at a light and marvel at the smooth ride of my 2008 LS460L.
Lately I have been feeling a rough idle when stopped and the ride feels jittery on smooth roads.The odd thing is the car idles smoother with the air conditioner running or when it is off. It is very noticeable when off and seems to be apparent when the car is fully warmed up .
The jittery road thing occurs both when the air is on and off. I bought the car CPO and it had the valve recall work performed (saw that was one possible cause).
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe 2.2 crdi auto with 67k on the clock. It's hard to explain but recently the car is idling much deeper than usual, that typical diesel everything vibrating feel when sat at lights. Its fine when I'm on the move but once i drop below 1000rev and more so when in Drive, not as bad in Neutral. I went over a speed bump the other day and i can swear i felt something change when i went over the bump.
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Just bought a new 2013 Elantra Limited. Love the car but........ very frustrated with the back suspension skipping around. Time to time my dad has to use the car but he is getting scared because the back skips around to much on the hwy ( same here). I know people are replacing the back shocks with the KYB and was wondering if i do change that would i be voiding the warranty the car only has 700 miles
Also one more thing i am getting 21mpg combined i know its still low miles and waiting to get it fully broken in but heard stories that it will not get better. If so whats the best bet to get that issue resolved. Car only has 700 miles ...
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