Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Both Rear Wheel Hubs Don't Spin Freely, They Rub Or Grind
Mar 6, 2014
Noticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.
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I took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
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My car is pulling to one right slightly so I did the alignment. But it didnt eliminate the problem. I jacked up my car and try to rotate the front wheel. I can hear slight noise of the caliper rubbing the disk and the wheel does not spin freely if I stopped rotating it. However, the noise is subtle so I don't know if it is by design or I have a brake drag.
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I've been noticing bad gas mileage over the last few months. I changed the spark plus, that didn't work. then I noticed the prob when I was checking my mail one day, on a slight incline and the car didn't roll back. so I took it home and checked each tire to see if it spun freely, and the two front ones do not, the drivers side being the worst. I don't here any noises coming from either tires, and have actually replaced front right wheel bearing last year.
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On my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
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OK, so the front end of the car is on jack stands. The rear is planted on the ground. The car is in park.
Yet, I'm able to spin the front wheels with my hand.
Wouldn't putting it in park lock the wheels via the transmission?
The car is a FWD 2007 Corolla....
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We had some unusually warm weather and a lot of rain. After work I was driving home in my 2012 elantra limited and stalled in some flash flood water. This was not deep enough to come into the car. When I hit the water the splash went in the intake and I stalled out. I pushed the car out of the water, waited a few and tried to start it. I have the push button ignition so it clicked 3 times and did not turn the motor over. I then saw and smelled electrical smoke. All my lights, radio, windows everything work. I fried the starter which I determined by removing and having it tested. I ordered a new one from the dealer.
I took the intake apart and removed as much water as I could. I ran the shop heater all night to dry up whatever water in the motor bay that I could. Then a couple weeks passed waiting on the starter to come in. It's gotten cold and I'd imagine whatever water may be in it froze. The day I got the starter I ran the shop heater again 12+ hours and drained the oil out. No real water to speak of. I also removed the plugs and attempted to turn the motor by hand via the crank and I can only get about a quarter turn in either direction. When I put the new starter in it does the same. Cranks the motor a split second and seizes. Is there something I'm missing? How could I have tied up the motor from a water accident? Is there something else electrical I may have ruined that would prevent the motor from turning freely?
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I have a 99 f250 7.3 4x4. The problem is in 2wd I can spin the front drive shaft freely and the driver side axle will turn but not passenger side. I've pulled both hubs off and both are in auto position and spin freely. Even with the hub off on the pass side the axle won't spin freely.
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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Replaced rear brakes for a 2004 camry. Just decided to change out pads/rotors. Rotors were stuck on, had to use the little bolt holes to thread in bolts and push out the rotor. Time to change pads, pads came off fine but when I put on new pads and tried to put it on the rotor, the gap was too small. Seemed like a stuck caliper. Tried to remove the slide bolts, top slide bolt was fine, bottom slide bolt had a lot of resistance and would not come off the slide. Regreased it, re-assembled it and it had a lot of gap to slide over the rotor.
Reassembled everything, tried to spin the rotor by hand and it was fine. Put on wheel, lugged it down and it wouldn't spin at all. Drove it, seemed fine with no pulling but the one rotor was definitely running hotter (163 vs 113) than the other side after a 5 minute drive.What would cause it to spin freely without the wheel, but not spin when the wheel is lugged down?
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The brakes on my 2014 Elantra Sport grind when they are wet/it's raining. They seem fine when dry.
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I purchased my car almost two years ago. I drive a lot for work, and my car now has 74000 kilometers on it.
So far its gone thru 3 CV Axle Joints on the drivers side, a radio unit, clutch bearing, fork, and fulcrum, and now there's something wore out in the rear suspension (squeaking and snapping).
The transmission in mine has also started to grind when shifting like the syncros are wearing out. Motor knocks when it's cold, sounds like the top end goes dry of oil when sitting overnight and takes awhile to get any.
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I recently purchased a 2011 Hyundai Elantra GL 4 Door. I am noticing a horrible but hard to define noise. It is like a whine (like power steering pump) but not because there is electric power steering on this car, it also is kind of a mechanical grind - can't really define the sound I will try to record and post later. Any way... the sound occurs when accelerating, the harder the acceleration the worse the sound.
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I have a 2003 four wheel drive Kia Sorento. When not in four wheel drive it is rear wheel drive. On two occasions while driving on snow packed roads, I have had the rear loose traction and spin out luckily going into a soft snow bank. I have good tires, was driving about 15 miles per hour on a flat straight road and not applying the brakes. I can't figure out what is happening. So I started to put it in four wheel drive whenever there is snow pack on the roads. Typically I thought four wheel drive was only for "tough" conditions, but I haven't had a spin since using four wheel drive.
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ok, here's the story about my brake change on a 2012 elantra GLS. I changed my pads and rotors myself, he has done many brake jobs with little to no problems over he years. anyway, changed them on all four wheels and now on the drivers side there is a slight noise that happens sometimes. The noise happens once very rotation of the tire/rotor, not a constant noise. it sounds almost like the pads are hitting the rotor at a certain point and making a grind noise. the brakes seems to function properly and the noise happens only when rolling at slow speeds or when accelerating from a stop.
I have done everything properly, even used some caliper glue to hold the pads against the caliper. what my question is, is there anyway that the rotor is warped from the manufacturer? it sounds like it is warped and the pads hit it once every rotation. I have opened them up 3 times now to make sure everything is proper, even put it in drive jacked up with no wheel on it to see if its running smooth, of course it wont make the noise when jacked up.
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Well this makes the 3rd time I am going to have to take my car into the dealer because of the right rear brakes. I had a guy pull up to me yesterday and tell me that I had smoke coming out of my right rear wheel, I pulled over nd the rotor had a slight blue glow to it and the caliper was smoking. This is starting to get old, I wonder when the lemon law kicks in on something like this?
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I own a 2010 Jeep Liberty and this is my first RWD vehicle (when set in the normal 2WD mode of course). I notice that whenever I accelerate from a stop, on even a slightly wet road, the rear wheels spin and I get the traction light on my dashboard. I then need to take my foot of the gas and accelerate ohhhh soooo slowly. I've never had this kind of wheel spin on my previous AWD or FWD vehicles. Is this a known "feature" or RWD vehicles? Or maybe my one year old tires are inadequate? With my Liberty I could try switching to 4WD LOCK mode before attempting the acceleration to see if this works.
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Well its been almost 2 weeks since I've had the Ex (has 103K miles). Planning on new V code springs, Bilsteins front and rear , and rear Hellwig bar going in this weekend. Once I see how that that works I may also upgrade the rear springs to B code.
When I had it up yesterday I noticed the front right wheel does not spin freely. I can hear what appears to be the brake pad dragging.
Right not everything wrong with mine seems very common:
- very poor ride, 3/4" clearance between the front bump stop and suspension
- 4 door locks don't work (that's after the suspension fix)
- drivers heated seat not working
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I'm an owner of a 2013 DSG Golf R. Today on my way to work, my car did a wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear. This is the first time it did this and I don't know what caused it. For those who didn't experience launching a DSG Golf R, here is a little insight. The car would usually launch in 2nd gear in a normal driving mild push on the throttle at speeds over 5 mph. From standstill, WOT, or a strong push on the throttle, it will launch in 1st.
I was on my way to work and as usual I turned off traction control. I slowed down for a speed bump and the car was doing around 5 mph in 2nd gear. I Pushed on the throttle and as always the car downshifted to 1st. However this time it didn't hook up as it used to do; instead, I felt the car spinning its tires, upshifted to 2nd at 4000 rpm and kept spinning. I released the throttle and it went back to normal.
I tried multiple pulls from standstill on my way back to work and the car was normal. What could be the cause of this incident? My car has a stage 1 tune..
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When I back up in reverse with my steering wheel turned all the way counter clockwise, I get a rub in my front passenger wheel well. Nothing is hanging down or loose that I can tell in the wheel well.
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I recently started having an issue where when I shift from 1 to 2 I'll get a quick grind of the gears. Here are the circumstances:
- the clutch is completely depressed, just the act of moving the shifter from 1 to 2 causes the grind.
- only when the car is moving.
- one time I was driving and coasting for a while just shifting back and forth from 1 to 2 with the clutch fully depressed and it kept happening.
- if I shift really slowly I can usually prevent it from happening, though I don't think it's RPM related.
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