Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Battery Light Would Flick On For A Second When Accelerate On Freeway
Jun 10, 2015
2011 Elantra 86k ... Ever since I bought my car in 2013 I noticed when I would accelerate on the freeway, my battery light would flick on for a second, then go away when I would let off the pedal. Not every time, though which made me not think much of it. well recently my car would die if I left it sitting for a day. I assumed it was the battery so I got a new one. everything was fine until I woke up one morning and my car was dead again. so I looked up my problem online and nearly everywhere said it was probably because of a bad alternator, which also explained why the battery light would come on when I accelerated. so I took it to a mechanic and he tested it and said it was testing low. So 425 dollars later it was fixed. Haven't seen the battery light come on when I accelerate anymore.
This morning around 6am my neighbor texted me and said my tail lights and head lights were on. this is impossible because we had been out front last night and we would have noticed this then and I didn't drive anywhere else after that. Why would my lights be coming on by themselves? I've already spent 180 on a new battery and 425 on a new alternator and this whole time it was because my lights had been turning on by themselves??
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After changing my battery my car seems to do fine as long as you are going down the road but as soon as you stop at a light it like shakes like a rough idle but the RPM's don't move and it never dies. If you have a lot of pull (heater, lights, radio etc) on it, it seems to get worse. It was in the shop for 65 days with engineers looking at it an all they say is its normal. I say this isn't normal because it wasn't doing this until I changed the battery.
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Mine hisses when accelerating, and there's no leaks.
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I have a 2010 Elantra and I have been having problems accelerating in the last couple of months. Took it to a mechanic and they said it's definitely my transmission. I am at 51,118 miles and so I am still under warranty. The Hyundai dealership said the transmission needs to be completely replaced. How does this happen to a car that isn't that old and doesn't have many miles on it? A factory defect?
The dealership, being a dealership tried to get me to do a bunch of other stuff to my car and I wanted to ask all of you about one of them. They said my battery is going to die soon. I guess it's at 236 (amps?) and should be at 550 (according to the dealership, that's where it should be). Is that right? I don't know enough about cars to know whether this is right and don't tend to trust dealerships.
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So anytime I accelerate out of the 'Eco' mode, the car is very rough and loud! 2011 Elantra GLS. Stock. Haven't had it to the dealer yet to discuss. 24,000km. Other than that it's fine.
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I started to realize something very weird in my car. While in drive from a stop I would accelerate and the car doesn't seem to shift up when its suppose too. I know that my car shifts around 2.1k RPM smoothly into second gear but now it would go all the way up to 3K RPM and slams into second gear which is really weird. Sometimes it does this problem and sometimes it doesn't. I would say 70% it would slam into gear. Not only does it slam but it would seem like this car does not want to shift at the proper rpm even when i foot is on the gas pedal very lightly.
Once I got home I tried some stop and goes and see if the problem persist. It still did. Then I tried doing shiftronic and from first gear once the line touches 2k RPM i shift up and yet it would still lag and the needle would go up to 3K RPM once again. This seems like a very bad problem especially MPG wise. I am still under warranty, I think because I've only swap the air filter with a drop in K&N and just plasti dipped my wheels and such.
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I have a noise problem on my dashboard ( or i hear like that) There is a sound which is really annoying when i accelerate especially on rough road.
Noise comes from dashboard in my Hyundai Elantra - YouTube
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I was driving on the freeway and the trac and engine lights came on.. Noticed that I am no longer getting the Eco light when coasting. Ran the codes and it's P0157 and C1201. I have recently changed tires, not sure what other reason can cause the lights.
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Really weird thing is going on with my 03 1.8t Jetta, sometimes when I am driving the battery light will come on. It will turn off when I slow down but will turn back on as soon as I accelerate. After a while of this happening I will hear a burst of air and the car will jerk back a little bit then drive perfectly normal. I've looked all over google and posted in a local Euro car group`and haven't found anything.
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I have 2005 Ranger 4.OL just recently when I accelerate the battery light comes on. No light when driving normal. Stopped by O'reillys had them check the battery, alternator, starter. They said battery bad. So I dropped 130.00 on new battery. Light still comes on when accelerate.
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Today on the freeway going about 60 mph, my 2009 Corolla started to jerk and feel like it was going to stop. It lasted for a few minutes and then on my way home, there was no problem. I was told that this could be from not driving on the freeway enough? Do I need to have it looked at?
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After one hour of freeway speed (60-80) the car slows down to a stop and red !triangle! light comes on. After coasting to the shoulder and waiting 10 minutes, car restarts. This has happened 3 times in the last two months (very frightening, but luckily it was light traffic). Dealer says 'no codes' and that there is nothing to fix!!!! What now? I can't drive a car that could lose power at any moment. Big safety issue....
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So I swapped out my OEM battery for one straight from Hyundai and during the first night time drive, I immediately noticed a very severe flicker with the lights (headlights, interior and trunk) when idling that was definitely not there with the original battery. I have already done the ground strap mod so I went back and re-cleaned the grounding points and even filed down the grounding post on the new battery itself but the problem remains.
I'm thinking I either got the wrong battery or a bum one and the alternator is only a year or so old.
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Passat B6: i'm having problem with my front passenger window. When i flick (not pull hard) the window button to close window, it rolls down instead and then the "One-Touch" Feature stops working.... At least until i turn off and back on the car.
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I have a 2013 Elantra and had to disconnect the battery. Once the battery was reconnected, there is no sound coming from my speakers. The radio turns off/on, searches for stations, etc. Everything I have read tells me to push the reset button, which is a tiny hole on the radio face plate. I have had 4 different people look for it, and it is NOT there. Looked in the owners manual about battery change and it says to reset the radio, but the manual has no instructions on how to do this. We have pulled fuses, disconnected and reconnected the battery again but it still doesn't work. Purchased the car used and never received any information on the radio code as other forums say I need to have. 2 hours in the car in silence is not fun.
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I got my battery replaced Monday evening and drove it home. Tuesday it drove fine, and Wednesday afternoon the power steering went out on the road and the car pretty much died after I was able to pull into a neighborhood. Before it died all the warning lights kept flashing and a bunch of other stuff on the dashboard was going crazy.
The AAA tech came and did a reading on the battery and told me it was dead, and also noticed there was a mark on one of the terminals which he said was the result of someone trying to jump it (whether incorrectly or not, I'm not sure). All the settings in my car were also reset after I got the car back Monday night.
Anyways, I got the car taken to a dealership and they are telling me the alternator fuse is done and needs to be replaced, upon which they will do another check and make sure the alternator itself is working properly.
My question is, is this the result of the battery being put in improperly/incorrectly?
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So I just bought an Elantra and I just took it on the freeway. At 65+mph there was a huge amount of wobble in the front of the car. It felt like I was driving in a groove in the road or driving in really high winds. The car drives fine under 60mph...
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Recently installed a curt trailer light. I modified the V plug in harness to work with the C.
I noticed the fan was running louder then usual. I took the right rear panel off were the HV exhaust vent it and there is no ducting from the factory.
The battery duct just goes to the back of the seat and vents out in that right corner right behind the 12V.
It makes its way up and over the right rear tire tub then what ever comes out of the rear exhaust, just vents out with momentum from down below. No duct guiding it from what I can see?
I went back and zip tied a wire that was in the path to sides were other factory wiring runs.
This seemed to fix the issue after making everything neat?
Not sure what caused it but it seems to be from wiring that was in the way? When I run the HV fan with my SG and remove the shock tower assess cover on the passenger side. I can feel hot air coming out. This might be an easy way to get more exhaust venting for anyone that wishes to do that.
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2007 Hyundai Elantra, gets this noise/squeak when around freeway speeds.
I took this short video, squeaking starts around half way in: Video - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting
This is a really annoying noise .
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Hyundai Elantra 2011... My issue occurred just yesterday on a highway at speeds above 65 mph. I initially noticed my traction control light blinking upon light acceleration but with no noticeable loss in traction.
I continued with caution. About 5 minutes later, the light now was blinking regardless of the amount of acceleration. I found I could push the accelerator to the floor with no added power and my speedometer was dropping below 55 mph.
Being a busy highway, I had to very quickly get to the side of the road as my car dropped to dangerous speeds in the middle of the highway. Had I no shoulder or outlet, I could've been in serious trouble.
The situation resolved itself with a simple shut down, restart of the vehicle. But it makes me very concerned why the error in the computer occurred in the first.
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I am having a mysterious electrical problem with my 2004 Elantra. The radio and clock light come on over night running the battery down. It started last winter. I replaced the radio in the spring and the problem went away, so I thought the problem was solved.
This past week the temperature got very cold at night for the first time since I replaced the radio, and the problem happened again. The next morning I drove the car for a few miles, came home, turned the car off, and the radio and clock light turned off as they should. I drove the car several times during the day and everything worked ok. I checked the car at midnight, and everything was still ok. The next morning the radio and the clock light were on again. This has occurred again each day for the last 2 days.
So it appears the electrical problem has something to do with the car being cold over night. How to resolve this problem - besides moving to a warmer climate.
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