Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Any Way To Reset / Clear Memory For Nav System
Nov 1, 2012
Is there a way to completely format / reset the navigation radio. The dealer wants to replace the head unit on a week old car. Seems like you should be able to clear the memory. Im getting a low memory error and it locks up. I hate to have the dash torn apart on a new car. I need to clear the phone contact but can't get to the phone settings because of the low memory issue. I think the problem stems from syncing over 500 contacts from my phone. Or maybe the 32gig USB.
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Had my GT for 2 days and the nav system locked up and a small Windows type box popped up in the top left corner of the screen saying low memory. This happened a few times even after shutting off and restarting the ignition. A while later the system started resetting itself. 2 or 3 times in about 30 minutes. I have a 32gig memory stick plugged into USB. Removed it but no change. I hope this isn't a sign of things to come. My first Hyundai. Other than that it's a very nice car for the $$. Averaging 31mpg on 1st tank but working hard to get that. Is there a master reset for nav system?
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Occasionally the car would shift rough though the first few gears and then clear up. It did throw a code awhile back, but I didn't take it in right away as the check engine light went off. Last time in they were unable to find a code and I was down to the last 100 miles of the warranty. I was heading in to get the sunroof repaired (For the 3rd time I must add) and on the way there it shifted rough and the check engine light came on. Good timing indeed as I am second owner. Turned out it was the transmission temp sensor and so far it seems resolved. The sunroof needs all new parts besides the glass so they will have me come back at the end of the week. Other then that car is running great and I am still getting around the 35MPG with 80% freeway.
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2001 explorer sport, need to reset and clear check engine light I know the problem a small pinhole in exhaust that opens up and i fill it in How do i reset check engine light...
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I bought some long beams at the local lumber yard. So drove home with the rear cargo door open. The ABS light went on brakes were pulsing mildly and making an odd sound. I cant see why the rear cargo door would have any connection with the ABS system so I assume that's a coincidence.I took the van to the local car store they scanned the code. It scanned code 4 indicating the passenger front sensor. I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on. Is there a reset function to clear the code disconnecting the battery didn't work? Or am I looking at another component failure?
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I was curious how you can get rid of an annoying "check hybrid system" dash warning?
Let's just say I know for certain nothing is wrong. It's only cause I accidentally disconnected and reconnected a wire. Just need to reset is all.
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So I was driving as usual and out of nowhere my front speakers stopped working. Everything started playing out of the rear speakers and my fade was still centered. I tried the hard reset with the pin and all, shuts the touchscreen and radio off, hit the power button, and nothing changed. Well, my setting were all changed but nothing changed with the front speakers. If I push the fade all the way up to the front, the radio is just silent. Can't figure out what I should do since it seems like a thousand people had this problem and it was fixed by resetting.
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I am getting to check engine codes and I can't figure out what is causing them, one is P1296 cooling system malfunction, the other is P1654 Check DTC Memory of control panel ECU, any clues as to why I'm getting these, I did have a bad thermostat i changed that and it's still on, I also used the new prestone antifreeze for all makes and models, cause I am about 200 miles away from a dealership for g12.
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No matter what i do, I cannot get the box dead center of the nav display, saying "safe driving!" to clear.
And yes: in the settings page I have unchecked the box for that warning (it is supposed to keep you from playing with the nav system while driving.)
2007 Azera ...
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My 2010 Elantra sedan had an accident, the airbag and driver side seat belt was deployed. And the airbag light is on after that, beside the Hood and the headlight panel is curved, nothing is wrong. The people is also safe.
I bought an airbag and replaced it, and went to a body shop to clear airbag signal. That guy said my seatbelt was still need to be replaced, since he can only clear one signal, there was another signal there.
Several days later, I bought a seat belt and replaced it, and wen to him again. He said there is no signal there, but the airbag light is still on, there should be something wrong somewhere.
My hood is still cured, but nothing is wrong with it. What can I do? The signal doesn't bother me, but I think it cannot pass the inspection.
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Past cars have always had a change oil warning system. Usually there's a button under the hood or a certain sequence of pressing the brake to "reset" the oil life monitor. Does the Elantra have any such thing. I didn't see anything about it in the manual.
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Over the past few days I've been working on the car, a Canadian 2014 Elantra L 6-speed, in an attempt to install the keyless entry system into it.
- I found a wiring diagram online and for the most part its been working, gotten the tail lights/siren and just about every feature working excluding the doors themselves locking and unlocking.
From what I can tell, in order to get the mechanism to operate correctly a relay is needed and needs to be hooked up into, correct me if I'm wrong as the car isn't with me currently, Plug A and B (59 Pin and 24 Pin). However no matter the amount of configurations I have tried, it just will not work.
*Do not care for the trunk opening operation.
**The system I currently have is a Spy la-3 Pke keyless system.
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I switched my wheels over to the summer tires recently and while the wheel was off I noticed that the entire exhaust system wobbles and moves around. There are several rubber hangers supporting the exhaust and I'm thinking it was designed to move around rather than be rigid.
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I have a 2012 limited (non tech pkg) and I want to see if my speakers are the only ones that have a buzzing to them during cold mornings? Once it warms up, the speakers tend to be better. I have the power bass on low and I usually listen to AM radio in the morning. Kind of hard to explain but there is a buzzing rattle noise when the sound reaches a high point. It isn't a constant noise but rather dependent on the sound.
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I picked up our ("our" means my wifes) GX last Friday. I'm a sports car and sports sedan guy. But I love buying vehicles, and I a huge car nut. It's a heck of a nice Luxury SUV with a lot of nice features.
One question so far. The web site specifically says the passenger seat position can be saved to the memory, but for the life of me I don't see how. Can it?
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I just installed the Hyundai factory Remote Engine Start in my 2011 Elantra GLS and have a problem that the hazard lights come on and stay on when unlocking/unarming the car. To repeat, this is the genuine Hyundai Accessory Remote Start/Security kit (3X056 ADU00), not a third party offering. Everything that the kit is supposed to do, WORKS as specified, including remote start. The only problem is that when I use the key fob to unlock/disarm the system, the emergency flashers/hazard lights come on and stay on until I turn them off from the inside or until I toggle lock/unlock for the key fob a few times.
I've been through the wiring a dozen times, and am absolutely certain that the kit is wired correctly -- again all features work. Now, I find it interesting that NONE of the wiring of the kit (based on the schematic) comes close to touching a circuit that is identified as hazard/flashers! I even temporarily disconnected all four leads from the kit that go to the front headlamp circuits and rear tail lamp circuits -- and the hazards STILL CAME on when unlocking. This is telling me that there is an indirect/unintended "connection" between the kit and the triggering of the hazard circuit.
The kit is clearly the correct one for the car, and the car has the right equipment for the kit (i.e. No Smart Key, has auto transmission, power windows, power locks, etc). Why the hazard lamps come on when I click the keyfob to unlock the car?
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New owner of 2014-RX350. I have figured out most stuff simply using the owners manual (go figure), but this one continues to stump me, as I have repeated the procedure right out of the owners manual without success.
Manual states to have only one fob or card present, car in park, "ignition on" position (I interpret this as two pushes to the ignition switch), push desired memory button and hold while pushing either lock or unlock button till chime sounds. I get the chime. But when I lock the door, wait a minute, and unlock the door by touching the handle, the car unlocks just fine, but seat does nothing. When I manually push L2 (in my case), the seat does indeed move into position. But I cannot for the life of me get this function to work.
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frozen? nav system? Its got me in the right state, but it is stuck nowhere near where the car actually is and does not track when the car is moving. Can the system be reset?
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I'm planning on doing a paint correction on my car and was wondering if I need to be concerned on how much clear coat will come off during the process? I'm going to be washing and claying it beforehand and using a dual action polisher for removing the existing swirls and micro scratches. It's a black car if that makes any difference. The reason I ask is that I'm not a detailer but have heard that some of the modern autos don't have that much clear coat on top of the paint or that some areas (like the edges) don't have clear coat compared to other areas. I also bought the car used (its about 3-4 years old) so I don't know its washing history.
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I just bought new tires for my Touareg. The tire pressure system is still saying I have a "defective tire" and then after a few minutes changes to "flat tire". How do I reset it?
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The windshield wipers on my 2010 F-150 do not wipe a clear path. I have tried several different brands of blades without any good results. It is like the blades have to have more tension against the glass. Is there a way to increase this tension?
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