Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Alternator Fuse Blown After Battery Replacement - Car Dead
Sep 1, 2016
I got my battery replaced Monday evening and drove it home. Tuesday it drove fine, and Wednesday afternoon the power steering went out on the road and the car pretty much died after I was able to pull into a neighborhood. Before it died all the warning lights kept flashing and a bunch of other stuff on the dashboard was going crazy.
The AAA tech came and did a reading on the battery and told me it was dead, and also noticed there was a mark on one of the terminals which he said was the result of someone trying to jump it (whether incorrectly or not, I'm not sure). All the settings in my car were also reset after I got the car back Monday night.
Anyways, I got the car taken to a dealership and they are telling me the alternator fuse is done and needs to be replaced, upon which they will do another check and make sure the alternator itself is working properly.
My question is, is this the result of the battery being put in improperly/incorrectly?
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I have a dead battery while trying to jump; my car I blew my alternator fuse. I had a friend try to change the fuse but he was unable to get all of the fuse.How can I get all the fuse out to put a new fuse in?
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Did the blue spring upgrade today. The driver side battery was disconnected for 2 hours. After finishing the upgrade I reconnected the battery. When I touched the positive cable to the battery I heard a fuse blow. Now I have no lights, chimes, instruments, gauges, NOTHING, everything is dead. Cannot find any fuse blown. Is there a master fuse?
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I have a 2013 Hyundai elantra GLS. I have a HID kit with a relay kit installed. It's been working just fine for 2 years now (2 years as of may) with no problems.
About two weeks ago my lights (hid low beams) wouldn't turn on right away. It would take multiple tries to get the lights to turn on. So I friend the usual methods....replacing the bulbs,replacing the ballasts,still the same issue.
So as of last night the passenger side light went out completely. I put in a new bulb,new ballast and still nothing. I bought a new relay kit (harness) and replaced it all and it still won't cut on the passenger side bulb!!!
So I went to check the fuses and there's no where in the fuse panel where it says low beams or headlights!! After reading I'm hearing it's in the smart junction box. In there is there a specific fuse for the right headlight? Do I need to replace the whole smart junction box? Where is the smart junction box?
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Just picked up a 1994 1.8 celica hatch and it was told to me that the 100 amp alternator fuse blew and there was some issue. So far haven't found any but I also cant seem to find this 100 amp alt fuse that goes in the fuse box under the hood. I don't have old one.
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As part of my 2 months saga of a defective transmission (LINK) the main 150 amp fuse between the battery and the alternator was found blown (after the dealer had for a week) and replaced.
Now I picked up my car and the radio will not turn on, does not light up or display anything. Tranny guy said he never tried it, I assume something happened when the main fuse was blown.
I checked both the 5 and 15 Amp fuses in the engine compartment assigned to the radio, both are good.
Is there another fuse inside the radio or something like that?
This is a 2006 Passat Value Edition
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Recently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
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Am i correct in starting to look into why I can't hook a scanner or Torque Pro bluetooth up to my truck and starting with blown Cig lighter fuse? (Cig lighter doesnt work, power port does)
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I own a 2002 Jetta 1.8T now here is my story.
A week ago whiles driving lost power when accelerating, EPC light illuminates so I turned on my hazard light and limped home since I was far away from home. As I limped home, all the lights on the dash went off. I got home, shut engine off, restarted the car but car wont accelerate.
I popped the hood and saw the dreaded melted fuse box on top of battery with charred alternator cable. I ordered the fuse box and alternator cable and prepared to replace them.
I realized that with the driver side door open with no key in ignition, I could hear a clicking sound with inside lights blinking. Didn't worry because I believed it had to do with the melted fuse box and charred alternator cable. I noticed that the clock was off too.
I replaced.the fuse box and alternator cable. My battery is just a year old so when I tried starting the car and it won't crank, I tried to jump start it but no sound. Car won't start. Dead silence,no click nothing.
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I noticed I was not shifting into 4x4 electronically and replaced the blown fuse in the engine compartment. Now the 4x4 light goes on, but I don't think it is engaging the system...
The back end breaks free very easily, but there seems to be a little pull in the front. Is it possible to have unequal power to the wheels?
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I have a 2002 Camry... So I stupidly connected the battery backwards, negative to positive, etc... Now there's no electrical at all, no dashboard lights, nothing. I see the 100a fuse is blown. Does this signify that the rest of my car was protected ? Will replacing that fuse probably fix the problem or when the battery is connected backwards does the rest of the electric get fried as well ?
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Battery is dead.You jump start the car.You let it run for an hour.
Does this kill the alternator?How exactly does the alternator work harder?It's spinning at the same rate.
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I was installing xenon supply HIDs in my 2012 Sonata and when attaching the power cable to the battery my ratchet went ahead and touched metal while it was assisting me in tightening the nut
Small spark, tiny puff of smoke and the popping sound associated with such an event. I see what appears to be a little fuse under a clear plastic cover on the positive battery terminal itself. On it says 150 AMP. the pop sound came from that. So I am assuming its blown.
Here is my real concern...the red battery symbol now stays on when I start the car...
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I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
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Last night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
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I have a 2002 tb ltz and am having power issues with the front passenger door. The battery went dead one night and after boosting the truck, all the switches on the right front door have stopped working. Checked the fuse under the rear seat and even swapped it with the drivers side fuse and the window worked for a few days, but nothing else. Now it has quit working again.
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I just replaced my battery and alternator this evening on my 2004 F-150 5.4L. After driving it around a bit, the idle is dropping to about 100 RPM almost to a point of stalling when coming to stop. It slowly creeps back up to a normal idle shortly after.
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Last week, I brought my 2002 Ford Focus (automatic transmission) to the mechanic to have an oil change and to have the motor mounts and cabin air filter replaced. Before I brought the car in, it was fairly loud at idle--which had been going on for a couple of years and which I attributed to the worn motor mounts--but had otherwise been running fine.
When I went to pick it up after the repairs, the car would not start. The mechanic ran some tests and told me that the alternator was overcharging the battery. The battery could no longer hold a charge, so both the alternator and the battery needed to be replaced, which the mechanic did.
I thought at first that everything was OK after the battery and alternator replacement. Because I almost always turn my car off immediately after putting it in park, I didn't realize what was happening and that it was a problem... but in retrospect, I realize that ever since I got the car back from this second set of repairs, the battery light has flashed on during the split second between when I shift to park and when I turn the ignition off.
Yesterday, I took my car back to the mechanic because it stalled when I was in the parking lot at work. (I realize now that it must have happened just after I shifted gears, probably into park.) Since that was the first time it had actually properly stalled--rather than just a quick battery light flash just before I turned the car off--I had not yet made the connection between the stalling and the shifting to park, so all I told the mechanic is that it stalled on me when I was slowing to a stop. I'm pretty sure the first time it stalled was the first time I let it idle for more than a half-second in park before turning off the ignition.
He kept my car for a full day and ran a lot of tests on it. He was unable to make the car stall during multiple test drives (though, to be fair, I hadn't told him that the trigger for making it stall was shifting to park because I didn't realize it myself yet). There were no engine codes, the check engine light was never on, the fuel pressure is OK, and the throttle body position sensor, the idle air control valve, the ignition system, and the fuel system were giving no abnormal readings. When I asked, he told me that they did perform an idle-relearn procedure after replacing the battery and alternator. He returned the car to me and told me to come back if it stalled again.
Tonight, when I got the car home, it started to die immediately when I put it into park (the headlights dimmed and the battery light came on). I was able to reproduce this a second time as well. Fortunately, it does start back up just fine.
I plan to take the car in for repairs again, but I'm wondering if I should go back to the same mechanic. My questions are:
1) What is likely to be causing the problem?
2) Is it something that is likely to have been caused by incompetence when installing the new battery and alternator or doing other repairs, or could it be a coincidence (I was willing to believe the first coincidence of the battery and alternator dying while the car was at the repair shop, but I'm having difficulty believing a second coincidence)?
3) Whether or not the problem is likely to be the mechanic's fault, is it something that a thorough check on their part should have discovered?
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Came out one morning went to start car, daily driver, 180k, completely dead. Figured since battery was never replaced went to Toyota and got a new battery. Left on vacation came back 3 weeks later, installed battery, went to start car and still completely dead. No dome light, no brake lights, no head lights, no anything.
Checked battery, full charge under load. Tried to jump start (correct polarity) using my 4x4 Dodge Ram 2500
Never had a single issue, warning light etc. I am going to get my multimeter out on Monday and check the visible fuses.
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Had a bad alternator, changed it, and now the battery lite stays on all the time..Changed the alternator again with a known good one, and the light is still on all the time..
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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