Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Accelerator Gas Pedal Sticking And Causing Engine To Rev Between Shifts
Apr 8, 2015
2012 Elantra - 105,000 miles 6 speed transmission
Throttle seems to be sticking and causing engine to rev between shifts, and staying slightly on after I let off the gas
Engine continues to rev up uncontrollably for about 10 seconds after feathering the gas pedal (between shifts). If I floor the gas pedal and release it quickly, it closes the throttle and fixes the issue.
Thought it may be a sticky throttle body, sprayed a generous amount of Carb and Choke cleaner into throttle body...did NOT resolve the issue. Its a Drive by wire, so no throttle cable to blame or to clean.
Turns out, the accelerator pedal assembly it self, is not returning/springing back to "up" or closed position and is sticking during the first few degrees of travel. It is very dirty, and gold.
How to clean/lubricate this thing? Its plastic. Or should I just order the replacement? I hope the pedal isn't programmed to the car itself? shouldn't be...but you never know
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Car: 03 20th with 6spd 02m trans.
Problem: Go out in the morning esp when really cold, and the clutch pedal drops to the floor. No resistance at all on it as if it's no connected to anything. I pull it back up and pedal starts to build pressure.
I thought slave cylinder searching on here shows a high probability of that being the issue. But the strange thing is the pedal feels like it's sticking at the midway point. Once pressure is built up to normal pedal pressure, if I opush it down and slide my foot off it, it will literally rise fast and the feels like it catches on something and pops to the normal top position.
So my thought here is that the Master cylinder is sticking somewhere inside and causing the pedal to hang up. The weird part though is that once the car is warmed up the problem starts to diminish. But if I drive long enough on the highway (not shifting gears) the clutch seems to start losing pressure all over again.
I have also had to top off the brake fluid reservoir about 3 times in 2 months. What is the root cause here?
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It was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
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Will overfilling transmission fluid cause hard shifts? I used ~4.3 quarts to refill. How much should I drain out? My check engine light came on.
Basically, I am having hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4 in tip mode and auto. more tip mode tho.
-I did a complete solenoid change b/c of cold start problem with n92 solenoid.
Fixed the cold start shifting out of first.
-Did a trans fluid change with Mercon V ATF Fluid works fine.
-Just changed oil on 4th of July last week.
Yesterday my check engine light came on. It's been about 500 miles since the solenoid change/trans fluid change, and 100 miles since the oil change.
Now my Mk4 is having this obnoxious shifting. I am thinking I possibly added too much trans fluid into my system as I do not have the VAGcom tool.
I drained out (bone dry drain till no more dripping from check/drain plug), roughly 4 quarts. I added 4.3 give or take 0.1 quarts back into the car.
Now I'm worried because everywhere I'm reading says anywhere from as little as 2.1 quarts to 3.5 quarts.
Should I drain out 0.5 quarts (because I know theres over 4 in there now) to make it 3.5 quarts?
Or should I just redrain the whole thing and start by measure one quart at a time?
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My 2010 RAV4 is not on the recall VIN number list but it has been surging occasionally since I got it in May. Dlr says No report of that. 2 days ago as I was braking from 20 mph to stop, the engine suddenly reved up fast and roared, I had to stand on the brake, fought it hard, acceleration ceased and I avoided rearending car ahead. Dlr & Toyota in a quandary, can't find problem, they still have vehicle, I have loaner. I'm afraid to drive it.
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On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
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I've noticed when encountering a moderate hill at 60 mph in cruise the revs might suddenly increase from 2200 to 2700 rpm, then back down slowly as I crest the hill. If I'm in manual mode it stays in 6th gear, but almost feels like a downshift. I also feel no accelerator pedal movement. Is this a two stage intake at work?
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Sporadically over the last few fill ups, my gas gauge has taken to remaining at full for nearly 50 miles despite me doing my regular in town driving with hills. Up until this, Emma would drop off 'F' after between 30 and 35 miles like clockwork but this latest round of stubborn behavior makes me wonder if the float is sticking at the top. It happened again tonight and despite me doing only 25.1 MPG, it still stayed at full until 47 miles after I reset the trip meter.
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Well my car is back at the dealer, again. Last week they replaced the brain for the ABS and everything on the right rear. Well driving up to and back from Redding, Ca.the brakes started dragging again on the right rear.
This time the rotor had a orage tint to it from the heat when I looked at it. The gas mileage sucks and now this. If I have to take it back for a 3rd time, I am getting rid of it.
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Having this issue with the steering sticking right on center? Mine is starting to manifest this particular problem (at 15K miles). It is most notable after driving for an hour or so. At one point it got so bad that I had a hard time keeping the car going straight.
I had heard on different threads that some have had the steering column replaced to cure the problem. Although I shudder to think of my dealer going in to replace the column with a screwdriver and a spork.
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So I have a 2013 Elantra and I have noticed that after hanging up from calls from the Bluetooth using the Red Button on the steering wheel that is it becoming stuck. I can pull it back to its regular position and some times it will spring back with a slight click noise. Can the dealer fix the one button or will they need to replace the entire wheel?
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I had my vehicle in last week due to a sticking in my steering wheel. An alignment was completed, however the issues still persists. When driving at 60 mph+, and when having to correct the wheel, there is a slight stick in the wheel. On a side note, my CV joint already had to be replaced!
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There is a small clunk in the front end and I think it could be the hood. When I press on it with my hand I get a small clunk. I have had the dealership look at it and they are not sure of any way to adjust it. Most cars have rubber topped screws to adjust the hood for a tight fit, but the elantra does not have it.
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Once again, my '94 Camry scared the bejeezus out of me, by reving out of control. I was driving a mountainous back road and all of a sudden the car was doing 40 mph on it's own. It was ROARING out of control so badly that I had to shut the car off in Drive. I would get out, pull the linkage back to an idle then start the car and, without touching the gas proceed on my way home. This kept up, until I had a very steep incline to go down. I kept the car in low, and kept touching the brakes. Then, I was smelling my brakes, and decided to just stop and, hopefully, someone would come by with some tools! And they did.......
To make a long story short, I got a 10mm wrench and took the cover off the box that (I think) holds the cruise control and throttle cables. It has sand and dirt all over the guides, springs, and throttle cables. I sprayed it with WD40, kept moving them, and it loosened up nicely. Then I drove the rest of the way home w/o incident.
THis morning, I cleaned all the oil and crud out and was going to blast it w/PB spray, and thought I would ask here if perhaps silicone would work better for me. I live on a dirt road, and there is always a lot of sand around that sticks to anything oily. Wouldn't silicone lubricate equally well, w/o the stickiness that all this sand and dirt sticks to????
(Oh, I checked and cleaned the throttle housing with an old toothbrush and carb cleaner too, but it was the cables in the covered box area that was the problem.)
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I just bought a brand new 2013 Elantra! I love the car, but over the past week or so I have started to feel the car's transmission (auto) jerk when it shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. I feel the car hesitate somewhat when going from 3rd and then jerk into 4th gear if that makes any sense. The car has less than 1000 miles and it never did it when I first bought it. The transmission was always smooth until recently. Also, when coasting down the road I feel the car jerk forward when I give it some gas which also feels very strange to me!?
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Its a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
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Sometime the car is fighting to move forwards when I start to depress accelerator pedal and it sounds like "click click CLICK..." the sound changes from lower to louder depending on how I depress accelerator pedal... (like the car is trying to hard to move)...
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I experience a sound, like a one stroke scrape of a piece of cardboard across sandpaper, after driving off 20/30 feet after starting the T-reg. I discussed this with the VW tech, and he said something about the drive by wire system engages something, and creates the scraping sound, VW thinks this is normal, and there is no fix for this.
What is this scraping sound? The sound happens once and only once every start of a journey, happens even when I am going straight ahead, and at slow speeds (about 20km/hr).
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I have only done 18,000 Kms on my 2013 Elantra GLS. Whenever I am in traffic driving real slow, and whenever the gear shifts in 2nd, the acceleration begins to drop to 1000/1500 RPM very rapidly while pressing and releasing the pedal, and it becomes jerky...
I will try posting a video, but meanwhile, it gets really annoying at times and I need to maintain a very feather foot to make sure it doesn't jerk especially when there are passengers on board..
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I have a 99 F250 7.3PSD; I upgraded the tranny cooler after an episode of overheating while backing up a hill.
The truck has done well, hauled a few tractors with it, but recently I have noticed something that seems scary. When going downhill, I often relax on the accelerator. Usually there is some passive engine braking as happens with any auto tranny. Recently, the truck just coasts - it is as if you feel the tranny shift into neutral and you just coast, except I didn't shift. While this is happening, the accelerator pedal will not rev the engine. You can put the pedal all the way down -> rpms at about 6-800. No response.
At the bottom of the hill (so far) the engine gets louder. the rpms drop, and the accelerator works again. Every time, so far. But, if IO am going down hill, and want to accelerate to execute a laneg change or something - I can't. AFAIK, everything A-OK after the new tranny cooler. levels, etc.
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Vehicle: 2002 Toyota RAV4 171k Miles, Second Owner
Problem: When traveling at highway speeds around 60 it will be smooth. When pushing down the accelerator rather aggressively it will shift into 3rd Gear and some times lose power and I actually slow down while the RPMs increase.
I added a little bit of Lucas Slip Stop to the Transmission and it seemed to work but I'm still encountering the problem. Could this be my transmission's 3rd gear starting to fail?
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