Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Acceleration Drop To 1000 / 1500 RPM Very Rapidly When Gear Shifts In 2nd
Aug 26, 2013
I have only done 18,000 Kms on my 2013 Elantra GLS. Whenever I am in traffic driving real slow, and whenever the gear shifts in 2nd, the acceleration begins to drop to 1000/1500 RPM very rapidly while pressing and releasing the pedal, and it becomes jerky...
I will try posting a video, but meanwhile, it gets really annoying at times and I need to maintain a very feather foot to make sure it doesn't jerk especially when there are passengers on board..
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I just bought a brand new 2013 Elantra! I love the car, but over the past week or so I have started to feel the car's transmission (auto) jerk when it shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. I feel the car hesitate somewhat when going from 3rd and then jerk into 4th gear if that makes any sense. The car has less than 1000 miles and it never did it when I first bought it. The transmission was always smooth until recently. Also, when coasting down the road I feel the car jerk forward when I give it some gas which also feels very strange to me!?
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I know the towing capacity of a 2014 RX with tow package is 3500lbs. Im curious to know would I be Able to actually tow , 1500 lbs 2 motorcycles plus small trailer safely and efficiently without causing damage to the vehicle?
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I am not sure if it's my imagination or not, but my car seems to be running differently lately.
When the car shifts into 4th the Rpms seem to drop kind of and the car seems like it is bogging down. Not extreme, but I don't remember this when I first got it. It's like I really have to accelerate when it shifts into 4th or I cannot pick any speed up.
Is it because the motor is now broken in? It has right at 8,000 miles now. It's due for an oil change, but I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it !
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My nephew's car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS manual. His RPM's hang when he shifts and it is a pain to shift.
I took it to the dealer and had them do TSB#04-36-011 Delayed RPM drop between shifts. This TSB supersedes TSB 01-36-025. Here is a link for the newest TSB : [URL] ....
The TSB Basically tells them to erase ECM adaption values. Then, you update the ECM with new FUEL cut-off logic. When we drove off the dealers lot the delay was not better, just different.
After driving it for a day or two we saw improvement. Now when you push in the clutch the RPM's go up slightly for a second to burn off the gas then the RPM's drop faster than before.
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W12 2004 light vibration/struggling during light.
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I want to say that I love my prius but I am having an odd (although minor issue).
When I accelerate a I hear a noise (it sort of sounds like a cricket rapidly chirping, only a lower pitch or maybe a phone on vibrate).
What this could be?
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I thought I had noticed something odd going on the other day but today definitely confirmed it. I was cruising in 5th or 6th gear around 45mph and 1,500rpm and I felt what I can only describe as an acceleration pulsation. It was almost as if I was just cruising and then slammed the acceleration pedal to the floor, released it, pressed it again, etc. This only went on for maybe 5-6 seconds but it was noticeable. The same thing once happened on my '07 GTI and then it never happened again. I will say that this happened literally 1/2 mile after completely filling my gas tank. Before filling it, it was next to empty (I had 15 miles left according to the MFD). I will scan for codes later but there was no CEL and it only happened once in the time I was driving.
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i've noticed on my 2008 prius that once i lose the first bar of gas i begin to rapidly lose the rest. For example the first bar might take three days to vanish but once its gone i might lose the second bar on the same day i lost the first.
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I have a 2008 Elantra GLS. I am getting a code of P0750. Seloniod A fault. I have checked wiring harness for critter bites all looks good. If I clear the code the transmission shifts normal until it is shut off like overnight. I also have been noticing that it idles around 1100RPM to 1300RPM and it does drop into gear harder (reverse or drive). This high idle started before the P0750 code.
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I've got a V8 with about 250 miles - I took delivery last Saturday. I'm hearing a groan in the exhaust between 1000 and 1500 rpm.
It sounds (and feels) like it's coming from the underbody beneath the center console/arm rest. I can feel the vibration in the gas/brake pedals and the driver's seat. It doesn't seem to matter what speed or gear I'm in... even Neutral. Definitely related to engine rpms as it happens while downshifting as well.
I haven't looked under a T-reg lately. What is under that area... is there a resonator in the exhaust? It almost sounds like a loose brush shield or maybe a bad baffle somewhere.
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I have a 2000 GMC sierra 1500 5.3 L V8. Recently I have noticed that when I first start my truck, especially if it's a cold start, it doesn't seem to be running right. It sounds almost as if it's not getting enough fuel to me but I'm not sure. It will first run really good, and then it will drop in RPM's pretty rapidly and almost sound as if it was about to die, which it has died a couple of times in the past from this problem.
Once I give it some gas it seems as if it comes back to life, but if I happen to stop at a red light or stop sign pretty soon after driving, I will encounter the same problem, where it sounds as if it may be about to die. After I get going though, the problem disappears and the truck runs great. I decided to pull the codes finally today, and code P0174 and code P0171 popped up. I have looked at the vacuum hoses and they all seem to be in good shape, but like I said earlier, I could be wrong.
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I purchased a 92 Lumina Euro with a 3.1 and 101,400 miles on it a little over two weeks ago. It has been having problems since I got it.
It stalls intermittently, typically after I drive to work, shut it off for two hours, and then start it to go to my next client(home health aid) sometimes it stalls right after starting it then, and/or sometimes when put in reverse and/or drive and occasionally at stops signs after the aforementioned problems occur. It has also stalled out twice after highway driving after the car is shut off and started shortly afterwards, for instance, when I ran into a tobacco store for some cigs.. After the problem occurs it usually drives ok if I continue to drive it awhile even if I shut it off for a short time and restart.. I added some fuel injector cleaner when I filled the tank but it didn't work.
After about a week of the stalling issues the car refused to start after dying and didn't start for two or three days. As I was unable to get an answer from the dealer my step-father, who went with me when I bought the car, called him and he said if I could get the car there he would fix it. So I borrowed a bundle to have it towed the 25 miles or so to the small town car lot.
His mechanic supposedly fixed it by replacing the TPS and the dealer informed me that they had cleaned the throttle body before I bought it and apparently the TPS needed replaced to. However the issues again started after one day of it running fine. I tired to get a hold of this guy again and again I get the voice mail and no return call so as soon as I got off work I drove it over there and again he said he would fix it. He had it for three days and I again tried to get a hold of him without success and he again answered the phone for my step-dad and told him they had ordered some kind of module that would be in Monday. So Wednesday he calls me and tells me that they didn't replace this module because when they took it out it tested good five times but they noticed some gunk build up at the contacts of the wires that hook to the module and now the car was fixed. Why did they order the part before testing??? This doesn't make sense so it throws doubt on what the man said. I went to get the car and when I got back to my town and went to get those cigs it died twice after restart and put into reverse. That was two days ago and it has been dying once or twice each day since then although it is somewhat better than before as it isn't taking as long for the idle to even out at sufficient rpms after I throttle it at idle or drive awhile. BUT now it seems to be sucking the gas hard and I am wondering if this guy just did some jerry-rigging because he sure isn't fixing it.
A few more details. The rpms drop rapidly when this occurs, it has a couple of times had a rough idle at the same time but more often the rpms drop and it dies.Sometimes if I use the throttle and keep it up around 1000 rpms for a short time it won't die. I have smelt a burnt smell a couple times when I shut the car off, like electric burnt, not oil burnt or stinky exhaust. Lets see, I felt a very brief loss of power feeling when driving on the highway on two different occasions, so brief that it was barely discernable. It runs over the halfway point on the temp gauge after driving awhile in town, seems a little hot to me but I read these cars don't kick on the fan till 220. Sometimes the rpm bobs a little up and down at idle and slow speeds and once the battery power dropped and popped right back up when it was idling funny and when it had that no start an acquaintance tested it by putting a screwdriver in a plug wire and pointing it towards the engine as I cranked it and he said it had no spark and it did crank every time I tried to start it during the no-start condition. It has also done a bit of surging from time to time when the prob happens. The car is recovering from the stall condition quicker than it did before since this last "fix" but still stalling.
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Was typically showing at least 30-32 mpg but now around 30 around town, hwy 34-35. Just came back from hwy drive of 100 miles and the mpg showed 30 at the start and barely got to 34-35 which use to show and then it took the entire trip to get to that. The ECO is on....
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2015 IS350 AWD ... Lately I have noticed on a cold start that when my idle is between 1000-1500 rpms, there is a slight buzzing/humming noise. It goes away if I rev the rpms past 2000 rpms and also when it drops under 1000 rpms. It's almost like a droning noise. I can hear it inside and outside the vehicle when the rpms are in that range. I feel like the noise is made at a certain frequency and it causes a vibration to occur.
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I have a 1997 Saturn SL1 with 100k. Every so often the RPMs will drop by 500-1000 or so for a second and then come back up to normal. This happens both when stopped at a light and while accelerating, and doesn't seem to happen predictably. I've already changed the filters and cleaned out the IAC, without any success. I've sprayed the obvious connection points in hopes of locating a potential vacuum leak, also without any luck. Other ways to locate a potential vacuum leak that wouldn't be overly time-intensive?
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I just took delivery of a 2015 pewter gray base azera. It is my second one as I purchased a leftover 2013 last year. The sonatas had to go just not comfortable enough for me. Between 1000-1500 rpm whether in motion or in park I get a sound like an owl hooting. my 2013 does not do it.i can make it do it any time I want. This is really annoying in traffic it actually can be heard with the radio on. the dealer said it is normal and let me drive another new one on a test drive and it does it too. Almost sounds like it could be a harmonic noise in the intake or exhaust. Going to see if I can pinpoint it this weekend. I am very disappointed as my 2013 has 36k on it and other than the rattle at start up no issues.
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2012 Elantra - 105,000 miles 6 speed transmission
Throttle seems to be sticking and causing engine to rev between shifts, and staying slightly on after I let off the gas
Engine continues to rev up uncontrollably for about 10 seconds after feathering the gas pedal (between shifts). If I floor the gas pedal and release it quickly, it closes the throttle and fixes the issue.
Thought it may be a sticky throttle body, sprayed a generous amount of Carb and Choke cleaner into throttle body...did NOT resolve the issue. Its a Drive by wire, so no throttle cable to blame or to clean.
Turns out, the accelerator pedal assembly it self, is not returning/springing back to "up" or closed position and is sticking during the first few degrees of travel. It is very dirty, and gold.
How to clean/lubricate this thing? Its plastic. Or should I just order the replacement? I hope the pedal isn't programmed to the car itself? shouldn't be...but you never know
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It's winter here and as my car warms up it starts to tick. It doesn't happen right away, only as the car warms up and it gets progressively louder until a certain point at which point it seems to stop (or has faded significantly). It primarily happens in idle and in gear but will go away after revving above a certain point (around 1500-2000rpm). If I put it in neutral the noise is greatly reduced or disappears completely unless I rev it from about 1000rpm-1500rpm. Once the car reaches operating temperature the noise is gone. What it could be? The sound appears to be coming from the top of the entire. Also, it doesnt seem to do this when its warm outside. I have a 2011 sonata GLS and I change the oil every 3000 miles. I use either Bosch filters or OEM filters so I know the filter has nothing to do with the ticking.
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I have a 2010 Chevy 1500 extended cab. For a few years it was a daily driver. It has 54000 miles. For the last 1.5 years I have been driving a company vehicle so my truck sits a lot and usually only gets driven once a week when I'm off running errands and such. Recently if I drive it just around town a few miles here and there, everything is fine. But if I drive it to a farther location say 20-30 minutes away the truck will start to shift extremely hard into second gear from first to second. The first time it happened I though I got rear ended by another car only to look around and no one was behind me. I wouldnt think the trans. would be going out at 54000 miles.
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IOur 2003 suburban often gets a "reduced engine power" displayed by the computer and the RPMs drop to below 1,000. The vehicle will not accelerate and will not go above 1,200 RPMs no matter how much gas it is getting. Flooring the gas pedal has absolutely no effect and the truck continues on its merry way at about 20 miles per hour.
I have been told by various amateurs that it is the gas lines or electronics that regulate the gas flow. The reduction in engine power seems to happen randomly, but most often if the vehicle is idling for too long (and I'm sure the 110 degree heat doesn't work). I can get it fixed much quicker if I know what the problem may be.
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