Elantra MD (2010-15) :: AC Not Blowing Cold Air
May 3, 2014
So it's finally been nice this week, only problem was it was Humid as it poured for more than 24 hrs the day before. I tried using my Ac but all it was doing was blowing warm air. I figured it was the car being hot since it it black and it was sunny & I did have the car running. I tried using the Ac yesterday and it was blowing slightly colder air but still warm. I don't know what the problem is and so I went to my moms elantra to compare since we have the exact car just different colors and her car was blowing air as if it was straight from the arctic.
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I have a 2011 Elantra and the air conditioning is not blowing cold air. I checked the system pressure with the AC running and get 83 psi on the low side and 85 psi on the high side. I have not found any documentation about what the correct readings should be...
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Where the Air Door Actuator is located in the Elantra 2014, and How to reach it?
I want to check it as my AC is blowing Hot air from driver side and Cold air from passenger side.
I read that there are 2 of them, one for temp control and another one controls where the air goes, one at the passenger side and one at the driver side...
Which one should i start with, where is it located, and how to reach it?
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My 1.8 2014 Elantra AC started blowing Hot Air from Driver Side and Cold from Passenger side and i noticed this after a battery problem. It all started when battery problem, suddenly both sides warm ac, i took it to a mechanic, he said nothing to do with battery and said it is a freon problem, he fixed it for 1 day or 2, and i went changed the battery, then suddenly, one side hot and one side cold.
Things i tried:
1. Removing AC fuses for 1 hour
2. Removing AC fuses while car on and then turn off car and replace fuses
3. Changed car filters
4. Hot cold hot cold switching technique
5. No freon leakage
Temperature here is around 120 degrees so you can imagine!
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My 2008 Elantra blows cold air, but just not as hard as it used to. At max setting, it's not blowing hard enough.
Also, my steering wheel starts to shake pretty bad going 70+ mph. What could be the problem for this?
I don't know the first thing about cars!
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04 Elantra GLS, AC works great and is icy cold at higher RPMs but gets hot when stopped at idle or driving low speed. Fan works, refrigerant level is correct. At low idle speeds the compressor just shuts off. A few minutes later or if the engine speed picks up it will engage and start cooling again. AC tech didn't think it was the compressor since the pressure difference between the high and low sides was in the correct range. Has this issue fixed by replacing the pressure sensor/switch on the high pressure side? It doesn't look like there is a low pressure side sensor that I can see.
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Elantra. Occasionally it hesitates (acts like it is going to run out of gas). When it does this the a/c stops blowing cold. Lasts for 3-4 minutes. Most recent time it had 1/2 tank of gas. I also have a problem putting gas in. I have to fill it very slowly or the gas pump will keep clicking off. I don't know if they are related or not. What fuel problem will affect the a/c?
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We have a 2013 Elantra. This evening we washed the car and when we started up again, the heater / ac fan inside the cabin would not blow air. I looked at the fuse panel by the driver's left knee and checked the 3 fuses labeled 'blower'. They were all fine. There are a couple of fuses under the hood that are also labeled 'blower' but I'm not sure which of them might be the one I'm looking for?
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Right now it's 101 degrees outside and the A/C on my Prius just ain't gettin' the job done. It doesn't even feel like it's blowing cool air anymore, just lukewarm air. How can I cool down the cabin more? Temps like this only happen a couple times a year here. What do Prius owners do in places like Pheonix where 100+ temps are the norm?
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I have a 2013 Elantra with 27,000 miles on it. No problems at all, except once in a while, it idles a bit rough/low.
The A/C never seemed to be SUPER cold, but it was OK. A few weeks ago, I timed it and it took 10 mins on a hot day to even feel comfortable.
So, we took it to our local mechanic. He said no leaks, but it was a bit low on refrigerant. Drive home and WARM air is blowing, plus at a signal, I surged forward, as though someone hit me from behind.
I immediately go back and he was baffled. He calls a few hours later and says it's fixed, something had come loose during the repair or something to that affect. I was stressed and not listening well (I know, bad)
That was about 10 days ago. The A/C has been fine, except for one brief time where it was a bit warm, no surging though.
This morning, it starting cycling warm air about every 3 minutes AND during the times of warm air, it was surging.
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I do have an issue with a 2010 Toyota Corolla A/C. It is not blowing any cold air, just ambient air.
Try troubleshooting it by checking the freon on the low port. Reading was very high so it seems like the compressor clutch is not engaged. However, in reading up about 2010 version, I found there is actual no physical compressor clutch. There is also no "relay" to bypass such that you can engage the clutch. Reading further seems to indicate that it's a solenoid system, which I'm not familiar with.
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I have a 2010 F150 and now only cold air comes out of the vents. I have not changed the thermostat since the truck is not running hot. I have read that the blend door may be stuck. Where the blend door is on the 2010.
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So last couple days over the 4th, the heat was over 95.
AC Blowing out of the vent is cold but the rear seats passenger feels warm.
Even with the blower on the higher and temp on the lowest 65 (or lowest setting).
I put my hand towards the rear seat and I feel warm air. Near the vents are cool but its like the AC can't keep up with the heat ?
2010 @ 51k ... 450h ...
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I have a problem with my Lariat blowing cold air on the driver's side. It happened last weekend when it was snowing hard and drove around town for a couple hours with defrost on. After I got out on the interstate the cold air was blowing in through the vent on the driver's door and down by my feet. It was -4 driving home. I though that some ice may have gotten in and jammed a damper open allowing cold air in. I took the truck in and thawed it out and the same thing happens. Cold air out of drivers side and hot air out of the passengers side. The truck has the dual heat/cool setup and it seems as if the driver's side is stuck on cold but I have it set on just driver. It was only -25 this morning.
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So I've noticed the past few days that the air coming out of the air conditioner isn't as cold as last summer. The car is only a year and a half old (2013 Elantra purchased Feb '13), so this isn't a problem I was looking to have so soon.
I wouldn't call it warm air, but it's not cold. Temp remains the same if I am driving or idling.
Luckily isn't hasn't been too hot down here in SoCal lately (70s-low 80s) but I know it will probably be warming up into the upper 80s and 90s soon. I'm guessing I am taking it in next time I go to the dealership for an oil change.
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I have had a rattle that lasts 2 seconds on my 2012 Elantra for the since about 2 oil changes ago. The car has 152,000 miles on it and I've changed the oil regularly per the maintenance schedule, although not always with a Hyundai filter.
I'm strongly suspecting that this is the timing chain tensioner, but I could be wrong. Other than this, the car runs fine. I tried having the oil changed by the Hyundai dealer with the OEM oil filter and the problem appears to be a little worse. It first started to appear on cold start up after the car sat for >8 hrs or so. Now, it appears on cold start up >2 hrs. I noticed that the dealer put 5W20 in it.
I'm wondering if lower viscosity oil makes the problem worse during hot weather. It seems when the weather is colder it takes longer for it to appear. I'm wondering what my options are here. I really don't know how much $$ it is to go after the tensioner and how critical it is - the dealer said they do replace them and that doesn't always fix the problem though I'm not sure what he meant. I have read a few other posts about tensioners here, but I'm also wondering if this is an issue with the new engine.
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Mine is just like this other owner's Elantra. Stealership say's "it normal". Surprise, surprise!
When I asked him how come my car wasn't doing it 50 miles ago and the 2013 loaner doesn't do it, his answer was "it's warrantied to 100k". I call BS. It's the timing chain tensioner or the the guides or both.
I say Hyundai knows about this and does not want to pay for warranty work because it's a costly job labor wise. Just like the Sonata's tensioner problems of the past.
2013 Hyundai Elantra Ticking noise - YouTube
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When I start my car I hear this very loud noise. I think it is coming from the exhaust but not sure. This only happens when the car is cold(not weather) and after a few minutes the noise is gone. I have aftermarket lowering springs on the car, do you think that caused the problem?(I'm thinking no)...
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We have gotten a record breaking amount of snow this winter and it has been tough on the smaller vehicles. The last couple days my car has developed an odd issue. When I start the car and it is not warmed up as in there is only one bar on the engine temp meter, I put the car into reverse but don't take my foot off the brakes and the car starts to vibrate strongly. Once it's warmed up to a few bars it operates normally. I know the brakes have some ice on them too but that is a different matter, also there is snow/ice packed into the underside due to the amount of snow on the roads here.
Car is currently parked in my garage with the heater heater on so hopefully it can melt some of the junk from the underside by tomorrow.
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This just started yesterday on cold start and happened again this morning and this evening always after sitting for hours. I would call it a chatter sound, very distinct and only on the first start. Never heard it before. Have 97K on car, will be changing the plugs soon. Once it is warm the sound is not there on starts. It is only when starting, sounds fine once running. What would only be noisy when cold like this? Timing chain? Valves? I'm going to let others with a better sense of engines than me (my son and his friend who are mechanics) listen to it and see what they think. But it needs to be cold. Never heard such a sound on my Hondas which makes me think it may be the chain. Funny how it just came out of no where.
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When I leave the car in the parking space for a couple of days (in cold weather) and then start driving it, I notice that when I brake I hear noises (like thud.. thud...). Eventually as the engine warms up the noise goes away. I can never reproduce this at the dealer as I have to drive half an hour to the dealer and by that time the noise goes away. Should I be concerned?
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