Elantra MD (2010-15) :: ABS Noise When Hitting 20 Mph After Starting
Oct 15, 2012
In my manual on page 5-25, it says:
A click sound may be heard in the engine compartment when the vehicle begins to move after the engine is started. These conditions are normal and
indicate that the anti-lock brake system is functioning properly.
Every time I first hit 20 mph after starting my car, I hear what sounds like an aluminum pop/soda can getting crushed. It does not sound like a 'click', it's much more harsh.
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ok, here's the story about my brake change on a 2012 elantra GLS. I changed my pads and rotors myself, he has done many brake jobs with little to no problems over he years. anyway, changed them on all four wheels and now on the drivers side there is a slight noise that happens sometimes. The noise happens once very rotation of the tire/rotor, not a constant noise. it sounds almost like the pads are hitting the rotor at a certain point and making a grind noise. the brakes seems to function properly and the noise happens only when rolling at slow speeds or when accelerating from a stop.
I have done everything properly, even used some caliper glue to hold the pads against the caliper. what my question is, is there anyway that the rotor is warped from the manufacturer? it sounds like it is warped and the pads hit it once every rotation. I have opened them up 3 times now to make sure everything is proper, even put it in drive jacked up with no wheel on it to see if its running smooth, of course it wont make the noise when jacked up.
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I just purchased my new Elantra 2 weeks ago. A few days later, just after I started it first thing in the morning, it began making a loud flapping noise (seemed to be coming from under the hood). It's been doing it every morning since. The dealership said they couldn't hear anything unusual (after keeping it overnight, then starting it up first thing the next morning).
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So this has already happened to me a 2nd time so far.
I depress brakes and hit the power button once when I first drive it in the morning after the Prius has been sitting for a while.
Instead of the power LED turning green, it turns red/amber, and the ready light does not show up blinking or come on at all. To me it almost appears to be in IG-ON mode.
I hit the power button again (can't remember if my foot was on the brake) and all the accessories shut down/car shuts down and I see the shifter indicator on the screen.
I then try to start again by depressing brake and hitting power button once. Now everything starts up fine and the ready symbol is there.
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Weird noise I am hearing with my mothers new Elantra she just picked up. When starting engine has a knocking noise, not kinding. Letting motor run for a few minutes it goes away but is concerning. I was wondering if there is an issue with the MPFI engine which i believe is new this year which replaced the GDI engine. Definitely does not sound normal to me. to me it sounds like a rode knock or hydro lifter issue. Are these engines known for this. My mother traded her 2012 civic for this with 4500 miles. She did not like the seats and dash board layout in it and we got a good deal on this car.
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I have a 2011 Elantra GLS automatic and have experienced rear end hop when hitting bumps, potholes, manhole covers, etc. It is quite disturbing to feel the read end slide sideways especially at highway speeds. Today I noticed similar feeling when I drove on snow covered roads for first time. I took it in to dealer who agreed it was a concern when he drove it, but couldn't find anything out of spec.
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I got my 6k HIDS installed yesterday but for some reason they start flickering every time I hit a bump but they stop flickering once the car is stable or just idling on a light. I think the lights flicker because the ballasts are screwed to one of the existing screws on the car and they kind of dangle and nothing else makes it stable which makes my lights flicker. Question is, where did everyone install their ballast or the best place to put them so they wont vibrate?
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I have a 70,000 mile touring SE which at low speeds( less than 20) has a rattling/clunking noise when hitting any small bump. Can not hear anything at higher speeds. Steers well noise could be coming from both sides. They did replace my transmission at 40,000 miles. Car does not bounce when pushing on it like a strut is bad.
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So my several month old Prius II has developed a metal on metal sound when I'm hitting various road bumps.. it's a "clack" sound emanating from my wheel well area that is heard when the windows are down.. I've taken it in twice and the first time they couldn't figure it out... second time they said they drove mine and a brand new Prius which also has the same sound and said it was the brake calipers. Funny thing is, I never heard this noise until after about 2k miles on my car.. They also would NOT disable my reverse beep sound or seat belt beep saying it was a safety feature and shouldn't be disabled.
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Some odd engine noise i noticed on my fiance's 2010 Ford Escape 6 cyl Limited.
I noticed it a week or so ago, the sound almost reminds me of marbles hitting metal. The sound is coming from a pulley on the driver side front of the engine bay (closest to bumper). Rather than trying to explain the sound more, listen to the two youtube clips i put up. Clip 2 from outside the grill you can hear it the most.
What this could be and what I can do to resolve? I prefer to try and fix car issues on my own rather than go to a mechanic, if possible.
Clip 1 : 2010 Ford Escape Limited Engine noise 1 - YouTube
Clip 2 : 2010 Ford Escape Limited Engine noise 2 - YouTube
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So in the past my car has sputtered when starting, but always did fire up. The other morning it started and died and wouldn't run. It turned over, voltage was good, but just cranked and cranked. I let it sit a couple of minutes and tapped the pedal and eventually it reluctantly started. I have 114K now so I'm out of warranty. It has run fine the last couple of days.
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I got the HID kit from DDM tuning and suffer from issues with them working fine while the car is off but flickering and turning off when I start my car. I just got the error code eliminators to see if it eliminates the problem. The ECE's need to be plugged in correctly or else they can "pop" and be useless. How to tell the polarity of the wiring harness for the headlights?
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I have a 2011 Prius 2, with 35K miles, and have noticed a clicking sound in the steering when hitting a small bump or hole in the road. If the car is parked, I can rock the steering wheel back and forth, and hear a clicking sound. I do not remember the noise being there until recently.
Also the radio reception seems to have gotten weaker. If I am on a trip out of town, it now seems that I am looking for stronger stations frequently, as static interferes. I had the car to the dealer for this a few months ago, and they said they could not duplicate the problem
This car is about ready to drop off the warranty, and would like to have Toyota pay for the repair if it is needed.
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I've been having a problem over the past month with my base 2014 Elantra (33k miles). Sometimes when I go to start the car there is a complete loss of electrical power. One of a couple of scenarios will occur:
1) Key Fob will not unlock/lock doors:
*There is no power to anything (no dash lights, interior lights, car won't crank).
2) Key Fob will unlock/lock doors:
* Either all interior lights will be on and when I attempt to crank everything shuts off (no dash lights, interior lights, etc)
* Or Clock and radio are reset, car starts fine
* The battery checks out as far as voltage/charge.
* There are no visible fuse issues.
* There are no check engine lights.
I have had it in the dealer the past 4 days and they haven't been able to reproduce the issue. So far I have been able to eventually get it to start by opening and shutting doors, which would lead me to believe it is a loose connection somewhere, but again the dealer hasn't been able to diagnose anything.
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I've only had the car a month, and it's happened maybe three times now. I turn the key, and it takes twice as long as usual to start, about 5 full seconds of the engine cranking before it ignites. I think each time was after I had driven the car an hour or two before (when I'm heading home after an outing). Most of the time, the car starts fine. What's going on?
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I have the limited with the push start. In order to start the car, you have to push the brake in so far and then push the push button. Lately the brake pedal is really hard to push down after its been sitting for an extended period. Once its started, all is fine. Its almost like I've pumped it a few times first, but its not the case.
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I have 1,600 miles on my elantra and this sound just started. On initial starting, when the engine is cold, there's this loud low pitch then high pitch sound. It only lasts for 1.5 seconds but it's loud. What could it be?
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I posted a couple of weeks ago about my car making a single click instead of starting while turning the key. The dealer finally got the car in the other day and initially called to tell me that the positive cable was loose on the battery. Then called back a while later to say after trying the start the car after it was sitting for a while it again made the single click and didn't start. I never bought the battery cable story since I knew it couldn't be that loose, I checked. But instead they found the starter itself was the issue. I was thinking it may be a loose cable on the starter itself and was surprised to see the starter had burned out already. A new starter was ordered and will be installed on Tuesday. I am not sure who makes the starters for these cars but a 2012 starter should last years. In comparison, my 96 honda civic is still sporting the original starter after 17 years and a couple hundred thousand miles.
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About 95% of the time our 2012 Elantra runs great. But then 5% of the time, it hits us with this intermittent starting problem. It will crank but just won't turn over. It really feels like it's just not getting any fuel. This has happened intermittently for the past 2 years. Every time we take it in, the dealer can't replicate the problem. It starts right up for them. The car will behave well for a while but then inevitably, it acts up again - usually at 6:30am when we need to get to the hospital for work.
Here's a video of it in the act : [URL] .....
It's not the shift interlock - it wouldn't even crank if it were that.
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Tis the first of "Squeaks and Creeks" from me. Not really the best thing to hear, sitting at ~24K miles. Anyways, until (if) i can get a sound clip, I have this metallic rattle that only occurs about 1-3 mins after i start the car. This just started happening yesterday, and nothing out of the ordinary happened.
I start the engine, hear a raspy rattle from what sounds like under the engine, and if i give it some throttle it increases some, but not to the point where it sounds like something is banging around. It goes away after a few minutes so it could be anything. Shifts are still smooth, driving and getting on the gas does not fix nor make it worse, either in neutral or actually rolling. It simply goes away with 3 minutes time or so. It seems to have a limit for how much 'rattle' it gives off, and its something I can accept.
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I Have a 1998 f150 4.6 XLT and recently it has been starting on and off. sometimes i will try and start it and wham! it starts right off. then other times I just here the starter hitting and engaging but nothing. Replaced the starter, solenoid and still nothing. It does have an alarm system but the alarm light doesn't come on, also had battery charged and its working fine. I am really fed up with this beautiful looking POS. Oh and the wiper motor needs replace.
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