Elantra MD (2010-15) :: A/C Blowing Warm Air Periodically And Surging
Jun 18, 2016
I have a 2013 Elantra with 27,000 miles on it. No problems at all, except once in a while, it idles a bit rough/low.
The A/C never seemed to be SUPER cold, but it was OK. A few weeks ago, I timed it and it took 10 mins on a hot day to even feel comfortable.
So, we took it to our local mechanic. He said no leaks, but it was a bit low on refrigerant. Drive home and WARM air is blowing, plus at a signal, I surged forward, as though someone hit me from behind.
I immediately go back and he was baffled. He calls a few hours later and says it's fixed, something had come loose during the repair or something to that affect. I was stressed and not listening well (I know, bad)
That was about 10 days ago. The A/C has been fine, except for one brief time where it was a bit warm, no surging though.
This morning, it starting cycling warm air about every 3 minutes AND during the times of warm air, it was surging.
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Yesterday the AC worked fine, until I got off work. Then it was blowing as usual, but almost warm air, it wasn't enough to cool the car. When driving and I turn it on, I do see the RPM's lower slightly. A co-worker looked at the compressor and clutch while I turned it on and he said they both are working. He did not see any bubbles in the little window on the line though. The light on the control button is not blinking and the in cabin filter isn't dirty.
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We have a 2010 honda Odyssey and we are experiencing some air conditioning problems. The ac went out on us about 6 months ago so we had the compressor replaced. A few weeks after that the ac would intermittently start blowing warm air. We took it back to the shop and they noted that the compressor was shutting off for some reason. They replaced the compressor again, but we are still experiencing the same problem. It will just start blowing warm air for about 15-20 minutes then it will start blowing cold again. This will happen about once every 2-3 days. We replaced the relay, but that didn't work. They have checked for leaks, recharged the compressor and checked the freon and still nothing.
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So last couple days over the 4th, the heat was over 95.
AC Blowing out of the vent is cold but the rear seats passenger feels warm.
Even with the blower on the higher and temp on the lowest 65 (or lowest setting).
I put my hand towards the rear seat and I feel warm air. Near the vents are cool but its like the AC can't keep up with the heat ?
2010 @ 51k ... 450h ...
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In the winter, it takes a long time to warm the engine. It took me 10 minutes to reach 3 bars on the thermostat gauge. After 15 minutes, if finally reached 4 bars(5 bars is normal operating temp). When I stopped on idle in a drive-through, it went from 4 bars to 2 bars. I have driven several cars and I have never seen a car decrease in temperature when it is running, even on idle.
Do Elantra do this?
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My son's Honda Civic keeps periodically blowing the #4 fuse under the dash (alternator). He replaced the VSS and had the alternator tested but it still happens.
At one point the fuse would blow as soon as you turned the key to ignition but I traced that down to a shorted wiper motor which I replaced and that solved the immediate fuse blowing. BTW according to all documentation I have, the wiper motor is not supposed to be on fuse #4 so perhaps the under dash fuse box has issues.
Looking for a schematic for the under dash fuse box? I have the 01-02 service manual which has wiring diagrams that reference specific fuses but I can't found one for the box itself. Are there relays in that box or is it just wiring from fuse slots to the many connectors?
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So it's finally been nice this week, only problem was it was Humid as it poured for more than 24 hrs the day before. I tried using my Ac but all it was doing was blowing warm air. I figured it was the car being hot since it it black and it was sunny & I did have the car running. I tried using the Ac yesterday and it was blowing slightly colder air but still warm. I don't know what the problem is and so I went to my moms elantra to compare since we have the exact car just different colors and her car was blowing air as if it was straight from the arctic.
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My 2012 with 5300 miles on it (oil change at 4400 miles) is now making a pretty significant lower end knocking noise at WARM STARTUP, as in when the car sits for about 10 minutes when I go into the store. It lasts for about two seconds, but it's significant and it's loud. It seems to have started about 500 miles ago and I can't say it was due to the oil change. Oil level is full and clean - I check it every weekend, even on a new car. Could this be a timing chain noise? Don't know. All I do know for certain is that this is very irritating and embarrassing for a new car. People around my car when I start it look at me like and seem to say "Really?"
Cold startup on my car is actually surprisingly quiet, compared to my Nissan Frontier V6.
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We have a 2013 Elantra. This evening we washed the car and when we started up again, the heater / ac fan inside the cabin would not blow air. I looked at the fuse panel by the driver's left knee and checked the 3 fuses labeled 'blower'. They were all fine. There are a couple of fuses under the hood that are also labeled 'blower' but I'm not sure which of them might be the one I'm looking for?
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I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
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I have a 2011 Elantra and the air conditioning is not blowing cold air. I checked the system pressure with the AC running and get 83 psi on the low side and 85 psi on the high side. I have not found any documentation about what the correct readings should be...
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1990 Maxima. The car hesitates/surges occassionally after warm start, but only surges for about first 1/4 mile, then its OK. Sometimes it idles low, especially when I come to a stop and apply brakes hard. I believe the two issues are related. This has been getting progressively worse over past few years.
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My truck - early 2000 CC short bed, 300K miles
Background on my problem: I had a short list of long overdue maintenance and updates to do that time and money kept me from tackling. Found a little of both so I replaced the water pump, HPOP lines, re O-ringed the HPOP/IPR, deleted the AIH, replaced all of the brake lines in the engine bay, put new fuel lines to the filter bowl. All of this took me about 2 weeks so the truck sat with the batteries out for that long.
After buttoning it all up, it fired right up, a little slower than normal but figured that was air in the fuel lines, HPOP, etc. The only issue I had was the battery light stayed on. Thinking I had an alternator issue, I checked it and it was getting about 14.25v so figured that was good. I used it regularly for about 3 weeks, the light stayed on, and noticed some surging during warm up and some low rpm hesitation.
Then it stop dead on me driving down the road. Turns out it was all my doing, I had torqued the bolts on the water pump pulley but didn't use Locktite. The bolts backed out, shredded the belt, and ended up yanking the CPS wire harness out of the sensor. So that made total sense.
Fast forward another week, got new wiring pigtail and CPS (never replaced it before now) from a couple of the good FTE vendors. I am not sure about the wiring on the pigtail, my truck has a green, blue and brown/gray wires, the wiring diagram I found online showed green, blue and gray. I wired it connecting the brown/gray where the gray line goes (center contact) and closed everything up.
Another thing to mention is that I have an Edge Juice with Attitude that has been on the truck since '06. I lost that connector in the process and they were absolutely no support in trying to get me running again. Wouldn't or couldn't tell me which wire they connect to so I used the green wire which is the CPS signal wire to the ECM. Once I am running again, going to get rid of the Edge.
So that is where I am now. No start, I've been reading some of the "what to do" posts, the most likely is that I don't see the tach bounce when trying to start. So I want to check the wiring to make sure I have good connections to the CPS.
So I don't have any diagnostic software to read codes, etc. I really need to fix this myself and only have one set of hands most of the time. Not really sure what the problem was before it stopped running and now I can't diagnose the surging and hesitating.
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My 2001 Elantra's Air Bag light recently came on and reappears periodically.
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Ok I have a 2004 f250 6.0L, has 104k on it. A little back story... truck was running well when I started to get surging on takeoff and it was blowing black smoke when it surged. After it hit 1600 rpm it would blow out and run normal. So did some research and found it could be the FCIM, I have the 4 pin and tested it and had 48.5v so it tested good. Did some more research and found symptoms leading towards the ICP so I replaced that and the ICR also.
Upon doing this my surging issue cleared up but now I'm getting a miss around 1200 + rpm weather it's in park Reving it or driving, but it is not throwing any codes, I did check with my code reader. I have also changed both fuel filters and have the EBP sensor on order as I hear they can be troublesome. My question is what should I do next or look at? I was trying to avoid the dealer so I can learn more about the truck in diagnosis.
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Where the Air Door Actuator is located in the Elantra 2014, and How to reach it?
I want to check it as my AC is blowing Hot air from driver side and Cold air from passenger side.
I read that there are 2 of them, one for temp control and another one controls where the air goes, one at the passenger side and one at the driver side...
Which one should i start with, where is it located, and how to reach it?
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My 1.8 2014 Elantra AC started blowing Hot Air from Driver Side and Cold from Passenger side and i noticed this after a battery problem. It all started when battery problem, suddenly both sides warm ac, i took it to a mechanic, he said nothing to do with battery and said it is a freon problem, he fixed it for 1 day or 2, and i went changed the battery, then suddenly, one side hot and one side cold.
Things i tried:
1. Removing AC fuses for 1 hour
2. Removing AC fuses while car on and then turn off car and replace fuses
3. Changed car filters
4. Hot cold hot cold switching technique
5. No freon leakage
Temperature here is around 120 degrees so you can imagine!
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I have a 2010 Chevy Malibu with @23,000 miles. The dashboard lights will periodically click off. At this point the numbers on the speedometer, gas gauge, etc., are not visible.
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I turned on my AC... set the temp to 62 degrees (pressed AUTO and pressed the button where all the AC controls are all the same temp) ... And its blowing out warm air.. Left it running for about 5 minutes and still no sign of cold air.... Am I doing something wrong? do i not know how to turn on the AC?
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So, I get in my car yesterday after being away for the weekend (the car has been sitting for 4 days). I get in and crank the AC and it blows warm air. My first thought was "here we go, I need a new AC compressor". I decided to pull into a driveway and I turned off the car, and then turned it on again. When I restarted the car, the AC kicked in like it is supposed to. Cold air as always. Is this a sign of the AC going out?
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I have a 2004 4.2. Touareg A/C is only blowing warm air. I ran Vag-com no codes. I used a gauge to check refrigerant ,the system was empty. I added refrigerant, i could see it increase and then decrease immediately. The A/C then work for a while then started blowing warm again. Used the gauge again ...empty. I then noticed clear oil on the ground. There is a drip from underneath front drivers side , looks like from a small silver canister by radiator.
I'm thinking about adding dye and looking for the leak. Is this A DIY fix or should I just take it to a mechanic. I've replaced the timing belt, brakes, drive shaft and a few other repairs. I hate taking this car to a mechanic, they always have issues.
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