Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2016 - Rapid Deceleration Or Sometimes Sudden Acceleration And Moves Unevenly
Oct 3, 2016
When driving, if I let off on the gas, my 2016 Elantra kinda coasts for a second or 2 and then does a rapid deceleration or sometimes sudden acceleration and moves unevenly instead of coming to a smooth stop or slowly coasting at a constant speed. The car jerks just enough to feel like I'm braking a bit. Not smooth like it should be.
I have been using my Elantra 2016 since end of last year. It has mostly been like this since the last few months and lately it has increased. Also, lately my fuel economy hasn't been great as well. Why my Elantra has been behaving like this?
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It seems like every time I take a corner or make any sudden acceleration/deceleration that my driver seat seems to shift around--like it's not properly anchored in my car. It's hard to explain...Any aggressive driving around corners and such makes my seat make a slight popping sound, with some slight give. I never had this problem with my mkvi TDI I used to have (although I could never take corners as fast as my R). Also, my seats are already showing wearing on the bolsters (just over 2k miles). I know others have expressed issues with this. What is everyone else doing to remedy this?
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I have about 20,000 miles on my elantra gls with the stock 16" wheel.
I was measuring my tire tread and noticed that the outer groove of all 4 tires is down to 3/32 tread depth while all of the middle and inner grooves have about 5/32 to 6/32. My car was aligned about a year ago. Tires rotated every other oil change, i do oil changes at about 3,500 miles.
I drive pretty conservatively, though the street in front of my neighborhood is 50mph and has heavy traffic, so I have to take an aggressive about half the time I pull out of my neighborhood.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Yaris at 33,000 miles . I love the car BUT on two occasions, the following has happened:
I am driving at 70 mph on the highway. Out of nowhere the car starts decelerating. I watch the needle on the mileage gauge fall and try to accelerate but even when the gas pedal to the floor, nothing happens. No odd noises, no lights go on on the dashboard. Fortunately, I am able to get over on the side of the highway safely. As I brake however, the car kind of lurches forward and feels like it wants to accelerate. After I pump the brakes briefly, the lurching stops and I start driving again and it is like nothing happened. At no time did I turn the car off.
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I have a 2010 santa fe with 19k miles.....twice this week i was driving and suddenly the gas pedal stopped working and engine light came on. brakes worked. Have "Sudden Unintended Deceleration"??
After the first event, i had it towed to the dealer (following protocol in the manual). they reported a new recall (it had been serviced a few months ago), executed a computer update and all was fixed (or so i thought).
4 days later, with less than 100 miles driven since the repair, it happened again. this time i was in 35mph traffic so when the accelerator pedal no longer worked, i almost was rear-ended. i was able to coast out of traffic (brakes and steering fine)to a side street. i was able to coast home (.5 mile or so). car would accelerate after stop signs, although the gas pedal doesn't respond at all. very scary that it even shifted to a higher gear and would go 30mph and keep accelerating if i didn't brake!
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My daughter has a 2010 Elantra 4-dr 74k
In the last few days, a new sound has appeared. It is hard to describe, sometimes squeaky, sometimes sound like a vacuum leak or air bypass.
It seems to steering related in conjunction with acceleration/deceleration. It only occurs when the wheel is being turned to the left, whether for a left turn or returning to center from a right turn. The noise seems to come from the center/center left of the firewall area.
It only does this while in motion, I couldn't replicate the issue with the car running but in Park.
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The other day I decelerated rapidly. I didn't slam on the brakes, but I went from maybe 45mph to 0 in maybe 40 feet or so. When the car stopped, the CEL came on. No apparent issues at the time so I drove it the last few miles home. I checked under the hood with the engine running and heard a whistling noise which I tracked to the plastic pipe connecting the intake manifold to the brake booster. I didn't take a picture of it, but it is the one that has a silver heat wrap on part of it where it passes close to the throttle body. I grabbed a random pic online that kinda shows it.
R32 bay pic by isaacpettit, on Flickr
I believe this pipe feeds air from the intake manifold to charge the brake booster? If this was the case, I thought possible by hitting the brakes harder than usual the back pressure at the check valve was enough to burst the plastic pipe, which may have been heated, stressed already? Then the vacuum leak caused the CEL?
What is the actual purpose of that pipe. The car is well maintained with recent service and just over 30K miles.
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Today I noticed that it feels like my R decelerates rather quickly as soon as I take my foot off the gas. In my old GTI, it seemed that it would glide in whatever gear I was in for a while. In this, however, It seems to slow down VERY quickly if I am not pressing in the accelerator.
Am I just crazy, or could this be an actual issue? My only thoughts are that the emergency brake cable is too tight and the brake is stuck on a little bit? Any thoughts?
I do have a CEL on from code P3801, which I read is most likely the ECT sensor. I know this may cause a loss of gas mileage, but could this be the culprit of this (almost) issue?
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I switched my wheels over to the summer tires recently and while the wheel was off I noticed that the entire exhaust system wobbles and moves around. There are several rubber hangers supporting the exhaust and I'm thinking it was designed to move around rather than be rigid.
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So, I have a 2016 Elantra SE Auto w/ 26k miles, I have 1k miles life until my next oil change.
Since about Saturday, whenever I accelerate, around 3k RPM - 4k RPM it's running/ sounding really rough! Not sure what's causing that, I checked my air filter earlier that day & put it right back in, also put in some HID lights in. I thought maybe the containment cover or gasket around the filter wasn't seeded properly, but everything checks out. I'm pretty car savy, so I know this isn't normal for brand new cars. Doesn't seem like it's loosing power, I still get pretty quick throttle response when I really gas it!
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My RX350 is over 4yrs old with 105k km on it. I notice lately when I drive off the seat moves back a bit and when braking hard it moves forwards. It is about quarter of an inch movement but it is noticeable. I guess it is not under warranty now. I looked under the seat but can not find where this is coming from, I am assuming it must be a loose bolt that needs to be tightened.
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2004 F350 single rear wheel with 8" suspension (springs) lift and 37" tires all put on in 2005. Having low speed vibration 15-20 mph on accel and decel. Recently put on thick aluminum rear dif cover and vibration seems to have come since that install. Used Mobile synthetic fluid and 4 oz of Motorcraft antifriction additive and 4 oz of off brand. The Mobile fluid and antifriction have been in my barn for over 5 years in the winter and summer. I just changed the carrier bearing and all U-joints look good. Any chance the fluid and antifriction additive could be causing this? Truck has 66k miles.
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How to remove the left foot rest? Mine moves around slightly and makes a creaking sound when it does. I am thinking that if I can remove it, I can clean it up, lube it, and put it back on. But I don't want to just give it a tug and snap something off.
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My 2006 Toyota Corolla will suddenly decelerate for a period of 3 to 5 seconds. No warning lights come on and the engine does not cut out. This has been happening sporadically for about 2 years. It will occur 2 ot 3 times in a day of driving. The dealership says they cannot diagnose the problem since they can't duplicate it. The ECM was replaced several months ago. The car has 120000 miles on it. I just got a new battery and transmission fluid.
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Model Year 2010 Prius, rubber along the front edge of the sunroof glass looks dry/cracking, but only on the left side of the car. Don't think it has anything to do with the location it is parked in, as that and the orientation changes daily.
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Alright so car is a 13 R, bolt ons, c2 stage 2+. Drove the car yesterday morning all was good. Did an oil change and fixed my cts DV (the top nozzle had popped out, i glued around it as cts had suggested to hold it in place). At first the car was making an odd "weeee ooooo" sound on accel/decel. I went home, rechecked all couplers, vacuum hoses etc. then went for another drive, there is absolutely no boost. Car drives likes its naturally aspirated, no attempt to even go into boost just nothing. Ran vag com, no codes.
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I am the original owner of a 2012 Santa Fe 3.5 AWD Limited. Ever since Day One, the vehicle has had a very touchy accelerator pedal. Even with light and slow pedal pressure, the vehicle accelerates quickly from a stop. Is there any type of adjustment I can make to prevent the rapid acceleration? I was hoping to get used to it, but it still bugs me a little bit.
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I have a 2002 Honda CRV-LX with over 200,000 miles. I'm experiencing a loud hum and vibration between 40 and 50 mph on acceleration and deceleration. It occurs when I'm driving straight or turning left, but goes away when I turn right.
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I just bought a used 2004 3.5l automatic Santa Fe. The vibration is most noticeable from 35 - 40mph during acceleration and deceleration. It's there at higher speeds but the car doesn't physically vibrate as much.
The vibration is there with the car coasting and transmission in neutral. It's there with the car coasting and the motor off.
The tires and wheels have been swapped out with other wheels and tires. No change.
The front driveshaft U-joint has been replaced. No change.
It seems to be in the drivetrain somewhere. I would like to fix it without slowly replacing everything.
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Last week i started to notice that my gti clicks on moderate acceleration, and again if I let off and using engine braking. I can only hear it with the windows down, and it seems to be coming from front of the car. My first thought is that the axle bolts might be loose, or I have a failing CV joint. I re-torqued to 70nm, and could not budge for the 90 degrees after that. So, they are tight - possibly too tight?
I've read a bunch of threads on relay clicks, etc., and do not think that's whats going on here. I'll double check tomorrow, and see if it's the 1000 rpm relay click. What this might be, or how to definitively know whether it is / is not the CV's? I'd be fairly surprised if the CV's are dying - I do not drive this car hard or beat on it at all, and generally keep it out of boost around town.
Details on car - '10, MT, about 30k. Koni coils at about 24.5" ftg, APR stg II, B&B TBE, all with about 15k on them.
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My 2010 F250 V10 120000 mile has a sudden loss of MPG. It usually is around 12 MPG but now I'm at 8 I checked the air filter and its clean I checked the tire pressure and there all up to pressure. I'm probably going to try the fuel filter next.
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