Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2014 - Shakes Like Rough Idle When Stopped At Light After Changing Battery
Jan 12, 2017
After changing my battery my car seems to do fine as long as you are going down the road but as soon as you stop at a light it like shakes like a rough idle but the RPM's don't move and it never dies. If you have a lot of pull (heater, lights, radio etc) on it, it seems to get worse. It was in the shop for 65 days with engineers looking at it an all they say is its normal. I say this isn't normal because it wasn't doing this until I changed the battery.
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I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
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2000 Ford ZX2 2.0 ....I've got approx. 79,350 miles on this car. I'm the original owner. The "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I took the the car to an Advanced Auto Parts store, they hooked up their handheld computer to the car and told me "it might be an oxygen sensor or poor fuel octane", he suggested adding an octane booster and see if the light stays off. I did that,but two days later it came back on, the idle seems a little ruff when stopped at a light.
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I have an 2008 camry le i4 and every time I'm stopped at a red, the idle is so rough. would the dealer know anything about it to fix it? My car's about 2 months old and has 4000 miles on it
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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
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My 2011 Elantra has a slightly rough idle at stop lights. It doesn't happen ever time, and some people probably wouldn't even notice it, but at every few/several stops it idles a bit rough. When I recently had it in to Hyundai service for the ECM update, I asked them to take a look at it. Of course, they couldn't replicate it at the time, so they couldn't do anything to address it directly. The service manager asked if it happens when the A/C is on or off. While I didn't know the answer at the time, it seems to happen with it both on or off. He did say that the ECM update may address/fix the issue, but unfortunately it didn't. While it's not a big problem, it's a minor annoyance I'd like to get fixed (as I need to enjoy my ride at all times.
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My daughters 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 77,000 miles om it. Just changed the wires and plugs, new brakes. Now, it runs very rough when stopped at a light and it is in gear. Now, when she has the AC running, and she stops at a stoplight, she has to put it in neutral or the engine will almost but not quite kill.
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2010 F150 4.6L 2V, 50k miles. Have recently developed an issue with an extremely rough idle with the AC on and trans in Drive. If in park, the idle is high enough that it is much less noticeable. I have cleaned my throttle body, and MAF sensor ? After this , I disconnected battery for about 30mins and let the computer reset. After a long drive today, it is still happening. This engine has the servo controlled throttle body, and therefore no IAC valve that I can identify. I would assume that the idle increase necessary for the AC to be on would come from the servo controlled throttle body itself with no need for an external IAC. The idle in Drive with the AC on will drop to 500 RPM or less and it is very rough. Is there a procedure for a recalibration of the servo throttle body that I could try ?
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I'm new to owning an ISF. I purchased it almost two months ago and couldn't be more happy with it. I know after owning a car you will start to notice more and more about the car. About a month into owning the car I was on my way to work and I stopped at a light. I noticed that there was a very slight shutter at idle. No where near the shutter if it was missing on a spark plug. After that day it has drawn my attention whenever I stop.
My question is is this normal? I know having a V8 in the car there is going to be some vibration. It's a 2009 with 29k.
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So I got my 2010 ISF last year around this time.... I never noticed anything a possible heat problem... So basically I've noticed that when ever I stop at red lights or at idle, my heat turns cold?
Temp is at high and the AC light is off too... When ever I drive it warms up again and works like a champ... But at idle or stopped it's completely cold....
It's scaring me.... My car is certified still I believe, this problem should be covered since it's internal?
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Not sure it is a problem. In fact i don't think it is, but I noticed it the other day when I felt a slight jerkiness when reversing.
The ECO quickly blinks whenever I hold the break down while not moving, but when I let off the break it doesn't flash. Normal?
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Just bought a L/Certified pre-owned 2013 ES 350. I am shocked at how much the car vibrates and noise increases when stopped at a light or stop sign. I tried a 2015 ES 350 and the same thing occurs!! The dealership technician says everything is operating "to specification". This is a disgrace for such a high-tech, luxury car.
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I just purchased my first foreign car ever. it is a 2002 Elantra it idles very rough changed plugs using NGK and wires new fuel filter and ran 2 full tanks of high grade fuel with STP fuel injector cleaner. but had no effect on idle also have no check or service engine light. What to check next?
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Yesterday my mom used my car and the battery light came on while driving, but she didn't really care about it and was driving the whole time on the battery. When she came back home the car was barely even alive I couldn't even start it. I replaced the alternator (duralast from auto zone) and the serpentine belt, but now I have a very rough idle and the rpm's are lower than usual. They are 1500 instead of 1750. Is this normal and eventually it'll go away or did I mess something up?
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I have 2006 PT Cruiser Turbo Convertible that violently shakes when I am stopped at idle in gear and the A?C compressor is on. When I turn the A/C compressor off (leaving the fan on) there is a drastic reduction in the vibration. If I put it in park and turn the fan off, there is an additional lessening of the vibration.
I have taken it to three different mechanics and had the following done: spark plugs and spark plug wires changed, fuel injection system cleaned, the 'whatchamacallit' in the fuel system cleaned out, the two main motor mounts changed.
None of the above maintenance has lessened the vibration one bit. Question: What is causing it?
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Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
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It just started last week, only when in drive, checked vac lines, good ignition system including new plugs, its very annoying the steering wheel even shakes, what to look into, the rpm at idle is around 500. 1.8T
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I just noticed today that the top part of one of the LED strips on my 2014 Elantra was out. I don't even know how to change the bulbs for these or if it's even possible. The car only has 22k miles on it so it's kind of concerning that an OEM led would burn out this fast. Should I take it to the dealer and ask them to replace it or is this something I can do myself? Am I SOL?
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2011 Elantra 86k ... Ever since I bought my car in 2013 I noticed when I would accelerate on the freeway, my battery light would flick on for a second, then go away when I would let off the pedal. Not every time, though which made me not think much of it. well recently my car would die if I left it sitting for a day. I assumed it was the battery so I got a new one. everything was fine until I woke up one morning and my car was dead again. so I looked up my problem online and nearly everywhere said it was probably because of a bad alternator, which also explained why the battery light would come on when I accelerated. so I took it to a mechanic and he tested it and said it was testing low. So 425 dollars later it was fixed. Haven't seen the battery light come on when I accelerate anymore.
This morning around 6am my neighbor texted me and said my tail lights and head lights were on. this is impossible because we had been out front last night and we would have noticed this then and I didn't drive anywhere else after that. Why would my lights be coming on by themselves? I've already spent 180 on a new battery and 425 on a new alternator and this whole time it was because my lights had been turning on by themselves??
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I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
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I have the oem fog lights but I was just wondering if the driver side is slightly higher than the passenger side fog light.
Also what is the knows from the back of the assembly that is counter/clockwise.
What direction does this do? Left to right or up and down. And which way would be to lower the lens if it is up and down.
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