I just noticed today that the top part of one of the LED strips on my 2014 Elantra was out. I don't even know how to change the bulbs for these or if it's even possible. The car only has 22k miles on it so it's kind of concerning that an OEM led would burn out this fast. Should I take it to the dealer and ask them to replace it or is this something I can do myself? Am I SOL?
View 5 RepliesI have the oem fog lights but I was just wondering if the driver side is slightly higher than the passenger side fog light.
Also what is the knows from the back of the assembly that is counter/clockwise.
What direction does this do? Left to right or up and down. And which way would be to lower the lens if it is up and down.
After changing my battery my car seems to do fine as long as you are going down the road but as soon as you stop at a light it like shakes like a rough idle but the RPM's don't move and it never dies. If you have a lot of pull (heater, lights, radio etc) on it, it seems to get worse. It was in the shop for 65 days with engineers looking at it an all they say is its normal. I say this isn't normal because it wasn't doing this until I changed the battery.
View 14 RepliesI have a weird problem with my 2008 Elantra GLS 86K Miles on it. I did a couple of searches on this problem but didn't find any threads. About a month ago I noticed that when I braked hard at highway speeds 65 to 70 Mph I would get a noise that sounded like I was driving over the rumble strips on the side of the road. The rumble was the same frequency no matter what speed you are going, it doesn't get faster or slower. The problem slowly got worse to the point that it would happen at 25 to 30 Mph. The noise sounds like it is coming from the front but I can't tell which side. I figured that it was probably rotors and time for a brake overhaul so I replaced the rotors, pads and hardware on the front and the back. I used synthetic brake grease on the slides and guides. I also replaced the brake fluid with synthetic DOT 3.
When I did the back brakes I found that the wheel bearing on the passenger side was leaking lots of grease so I replaced it with a Timken bearing. (I live over an hour away from the nearest dealer so I did the repairs myself.) While I was working on the bearing I pushed the rear shock up and out of the way and it stayed in the up position for quite a while, aren't the shocks under pressure and usually push right back down? (Just an off subject thought) Well after replacing the bearing the rumble strip noise went back to just happening at speeds from 45 Mph and up. I was also thinking of pulling the fuse on the ABS and seeing if the problem goes away but will pulling the fuse hurt the car in any way or trip a code? I know what the ABS sounds like and this is not the same noise you get when sliding on ice.
I have swapped out my 2008 Headlights for 2012 LED ones. However, the LED strip is not coming on. I followed the below thread and grounded that green wire as shown, and ran the red wire to the ig2 fuse box on the drivers side and nothing. i also tested it from the battery and nothing as well.
View 14 Replies2001 GLS... Noticed the passenger front door window outer weather strip is loose at one end. Looks like a "tab" on the strip fits into a slot on the door panel. Since the tab is smaller that the slot, is there some kind of clip or something that holds the weatherstrip tab securely in the slot?
View 2 RepliesToday and yesterday day mark the first time since I have owned my truck, that I have really taxed it with a load or serious work.
I have 8126, miles to date, and hadn't felt this annoying and somewhat pronounced shudder at throttle- tip in. Only from a dead stop. I'm doing some work to my house, so as I type this I have about 700-800lbs in my box. I've never felt this shudder empty as I do with a load, and starting out on an incline.
It feels like the rear is rolling over a "rumble strip" for the first few feet of throttle input, between 5-10 mph and then smooth everywhere else.
Rob- if your reading this, I can't remember if your shudder was similar, or if yours did it empty or only when towing or hauling a load.
With Eco off my sport has a nice bog/hesitation when accelerating. Doesn't matter if ac is on or not. I'm also using shell from the same station I've always used for years. The 2.0 is still pretty new. My cruze turbo had the same kind of issue and turned out to be the spark plug gap was too small from the factory.
View 1 RepliesI'm trying to track down why the 3rd brake light in the wing doesn't work and I've narrowed it to down to the LED strip being hooped.. I removed the two hard to reach screws underneath but the light still won't separate. Is there a clip or something else holding it on in the middle somewhere? That's where it seems to be not letting go.
View 4 RepliesThis car is an Australian 2014 Elantra SE
The existing manuals do not work, they show a knob previous to this one and don't apply.
Hyundai Elantra: Console. Repair procedures - Interior - Body (Interior and Exterior) - Hyundai Elantra MD 2010-2016 Service manual
Shows an earlier one and I can't find any other info.
The brakes on my 2014 Elantra Sport grind when they are wet/it's raining. They seem fine when dry.
View 8 RepliesThe trunk lid on my 2014 Hyundai Elantra has popped open all by itself about a dozen times in the six months I have had the car. The dealer has replaced the latch assembly (no dice) and then replaced the remote key (no dice).
View 11 RepliesLast week I heard my front end start growling and figured it was a bearing. I bought bearings and when I tore the front end down the left (driver) side felt fine when I had the knuckle out. I changed it anyhow. The right side felt kinda OK and I changed it. I've got a press and made sure not to press on the wrong parts. When I took it for a drive the noise is actually worse now. It's got all the standard bearing symptoms. It get louder the faster I drive and changes when I swerve back and forth. I put the car back on the jack and noticed I could wiggle the wheel a bit. I pulled the wheel and the spindle was able to wiggle. I figured maybe the axle nut was a little loose and I was able to get about 1 more turn on it. That took out the wiggle but the noise is still there. Did I get 2 bad bearings or did I do something wrong?
View 13 RepliesJust purchased a 2014 Elantra Limited in August 2014. Two months later, I started having a slow leak in my right rear tire. Was manageable at first, just thought maybe it was the weather getting colder, but finally had to take it in for service and had it looked at. They said I had a nail in the INSIDE SIDEWALL, and it was not covered under warranty, so I had to buy a new tire.
Within a month of buying the first new tire, my right FRONT tire started doing the same thing. Now, I'm having to fill it every day. Just scheduled another service appointment to have it looked at.
I have a 2014 elantra limited and have noticed heater issues. The heat never gets hot until the temp is set to higher levels. For example 25c /77 f is just lukewarm I need to set the temp up as high as 28c/82f or higher to get decent heat. Anything below 24c is like having the air conditioning on. It also seems to fluctuate at time, blowing warmer air and then turning cold. Coolant is topped up, no visible leaks i.e., nothing on the garage floor.
View 7 RepliesSo my 2014 Elantra makes a tapping/ticking sound on cold starts which stays audible after the oil gets up to temp for at least until about 10 minutes of driving. I've heard this noise since I bought the car and of course kept searching all over the forums but everyone seems to have a different opinion as to what causes it and if it's normal or not. I finally decided to drop my car off at the dealer overnight so they could start in the morning and diagnose it. They listened, ran some tests on the engine and said everything was fine, nothing was damaged and that the sound is from the second fuel pump that is located over the engine.
They tested my fuel and said it's making the sound because I'm using a heavy fuel quality, then the tech told me I should run a fuel cleaner every other time I fill the car up. This seems excessive to me? I only fill my car up with Shell gas and avoid discount places which the tech agreed that Shell gas should be fine. I only have 22k miles on the car do I really need to be running cleaners every other tank of gas? Also wondering if using non ethanol gas would fix this problem. I did run 1 tank of non-ethanol but didn't notice a difference and since non-ethanol costs more than premium I went back to regular. I will try a fuel cleaner though?
I am trying to install interior led light strips under my driver and passenger side. I connected to wire to my front fog lights fuse. But when I connect the negative wire to a metal part the light turns on and doesn't turn off unless i take it off. I want to make the lights turn on when i turn on the fog lights. How can I do this / what did i do wrong. I am do this in a 2009 corolla S.
View 2 RepliesHaving issues with a 2014 shutting down. Was at a stop light the other day and car completely lost power and shut down. When this happened oil, engine, and battery light came on. Once I parked car and turned off, it restarted. The dealership acted like I had no idea what I was talking about and would like to have some information when I take it back to have this problem corrected the car is not even 2 years old and has 30,000 miles on it.
View 14 RepliesI bought a new 2014 Elantra last Monday. Around 100 miles (Wednesday) I noticed it was making a ticking noise when accelerating. The sound gets louder at higher RPMs and goes away when I get off of the accelerator. You can't hear it over the radio but it's embarrassing when my passengers do. It almost sounds like a puff of air escaping or something, similar to a go-kart engine lol.
Anyways, I took it to the dealer Thursday and they drove it and said the noise was normal during the engines break-in period and if it persists after 15k to bring it back and they would see if there was something that needed tightening.
Hyundai Elantra 2011... My issue occurred just yesterday on a highway at speeds above 65 mph. I initially noticed my traction control light blinking upon light acceleration but with no noticeable loss in traction.
I continued with caution. About 5 minutes later, the light now was blinking regardless of the amount of acceleration. I found I could push the accelerator to the floor with no added power and my speedometer was dropping below 55 mph.
Being a busy highway, I had to very quickly get to the side of the road as my car dropped to dangerous speeds in the middle of the highway. Had I no shoulder or outlet, I could've been in serious trouble.
The situation resolved itself with a simple shut down, restart of the vehicle. But it makes me very concerned why the error in the computer occurred in the first.
After having a 2007 Sonata with 172k miles I purchased a 2015 Elantra Sport on Saturday 4.11.15. After 3 day, my malfunction light came on. I called the dealership and I will taking it in on Saturday.
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