Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2014 - Brakes Grind When Wet / Raining
Nov 30, 2015
The brakes on my 2014 Elantra Sport grind when they are wet/it's raining. They seem fine when dry.
View 8 RepliesThe brakes on my 2014 Elantra Sport grind when they are wet/it's raining. They seem fine when dry.
View 8 RepliesI got my car inspected this summer, and the front brakes were reported as 8 and my rear brakes 6. I got front brakes not too long ago, and my rear brakes are original to the car. Recently, my brakes have very randomly (maybe once per car ride) started making a gentle squeaking or light grinding / grumbling noise when I apply the brakes. It doesn't seem to matter how hard I apply them or at what point during the car ride it is. Now, it will never squeak or grumble/grind at the same time, and the sound is never very loud. It also does not happen when my foot is off the brake or when the brake is released. Only when the brake is applied.
I've had squeaking happen in my previous car's rear brakes when some fluid was leaking, and my rear brakes had to be serviced, however, this sounds like it is coming from the front. I went looking in my owner's manual for a service schedule (for a maintenance code not related to this issue) and noted in very small print underneath the schedule that I should have replaced my brake fluid about a year ago. I don't know whether this could be related, and yes, I am going to get my car checked/serviced soon, but I cannot do it until next week. My questions are what might be causing the noise and also if it could be dangerous. I don't think that my brake pads are worn. The brakes also function very well as far as I can tell. I have no issues stopping. I have 75K miles on my car...
I purchased my car almost two years ago. I drive a lot for work, and my car now has 74000 kilometers on it.
So far its gone thru 3 CV Axle Joints on the drivers side, a radio unit, clutch bearing, fork, and fulcrum, and now there's something wore out in the rear suspension (squeaking and snapping).
The transmission in mine has also started to grind when shifting like the syncros are wearing out. Motor knocks when it's cold, sounds like the top end goes dry of oil when sitting overnight and takes awhile to get any.
I recently purchased a 2011 Hyundai Elantra GL 4 Door. I am noticing a horrible but hard to define noise. It is like a whine (like power steering pump) but not because there is electric power steering on this car, it also is kind of a mechanical grind - can't really define the sound I will try to record and post later. Any way... the sound occurs when accelerating, the harder the acceleration the worse the sound.
View 6 RepliesNoticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.
ok, here's the story about my brake change on a 2012 elantra GLS. I changed my pads and rotors myself, he has done many brake jobs with little to no problems over he years. anyway, changed them on all four wheels and now on the drivers side there is a slight noise that happens sometimes. The noise happens once very rotation of the tire/rotor, not a constant noise. it sounds almost like the pads are hitting the rotor at a certain point and making a grind noise. the brakes seems to function properly and the noise happens only when rolling at slow speeds or when accelerating from a stop.
I have done everything properly, even used some caliper glue to hold the pads against the caliper. what my question is, is there anyway that the rotor is warped from the manufacturer? it sounds like it is warped and the pads hit it once every rotation. I have opened them up 3 times now to make sure everything is proper, even put it in drive jacked up with no wheel on it to see if its running smooth, of course it wont make the noise when jacked up.
So I drove 400 miles today and when I was just about home I heard a grind when I applied the brakes on the freeway. Well I did a walk around the car to check all the pads and noticed my rear pads are almost gone. I'm not used to having the rear brakes implemented in so much of my daily driving, with the TCS and all.
To make it easy I'd like to keep all four corners on the same brake setup, I'm just not sure what is ideal on this car. I know OEM is gonna be said, but I upgraded my front pads to Hawk HPS'.
Just like the title says out of the blue the esc light will come on and it sounds like the front brakes are grinding. This only happens once in a while but more often as of late. Grinding noise does not occur until after the light comes on. Sometimes the light will stay on for a minute and then go out and everything is fine. Other times we need to shut the car off and on for the light to go out. Grinding noise only occurs one time in all instances.
We just had a brake job done 3 months ago so I am at a loss as to the problem. This is an 07 FWD Sante Fe.
Driving my 2008 460L and I get the brake sensor warning. Ok I've been through this before and know I have a little time left, but two days later I get a little grind noise. Then suddenly metal on metal what the hell is that noise! Turns out the passenger side rear lost a pad... it's just gone. The plate is left but the pad is gone on the inside of the rotor. The outside still had about 25% left. The other back wheel still had about 25% left on both pads.
I have 97k on the car and the rotor was turned on the last brake job so I assume I am done with this rotor and order a new one. Now the fun... I pull off the caliper and compress the cylinder on the offending pad first. The way I do this is with a big pair of channel locks I put one jaw on the pad and one on the back of the caliper and squeeze. It works a treat so I pull the offending pad and the dust boot falls to the ground in pieces. Great... now I put the channel locks on the other pad and when I squeeze, it goes in very easily with almost no resistance and the cylinder on the other side(with no boot on it) shoots out along with a bunch of fluid, probably 4-6 oz.
I decide to reassemble everything knowing I now need to bleed the brakes. All of the other wheels are normal and the brake job goes smoothly.
Frustrating part is here... how do you bleed the brakes in this car?!
methods I tried:Gravity - open the bleeder valve and let it drip, the dripping stopped after 20 minutes leaving no fluid in the line or caliper at all.
vacuum - I used the hand pump tool to try and pull fluid thru, got little spits and dribbles at best.
traditional - had my son pump the brakes, he could get a spongy pedal that bottomed out but never a firm pedal and the cylinder remained empty.
pump and suck - aggressive pumping of the pedal with the suction device on the hardline nipple. This resulted in a little fluid coming thru but no where near the amount you'd expect.
Now I have VSC, Brake Malfunction, ABS warning on the computer.
Every single time it rains, our 2005 Prius' brakes tend to go haywire-and just when we need them the most. They back breaks lock up, bringing the car to a jolt and throwing us forward. Sometimes it feels like it won't brake and then bam, a very hard stop. Sometimes they squeak and grind too- It never happens when it is sunny outside-only where there is a significant amount of moisture in the air. We've taken the car to the dealer three times and they can never find anything wrong with it.
View 3 RepliesI recently started having an issue where when I shift from 1 to 2 I'll get a quick grind of the gears. Here are the circumstances:
- the clutch is completely depressed, just the act of moving the shifter from 1 to 2 causes the grind.
- only when the car is moving.
- one time I was driving and coasting for a while just shifting back and forth from 1 to 2 with the clutch fully depressed and it kept happening.
- if I shift really slowly I can usually prevent it from happening, though I don't think it's RPM related.
Well my car is back at the dealer, again. Last week they replaced the brain for the ABS and everything on the right rear. Well driving up to and back from Redding, Ca.the brakes started dragging again on the right rear.
This time the rotor had a orage tint to it from the heat when I looked at it. The gas mileage sucks and now this. If I have to take it back for a 3rd time, I am getting rid of it.
My 2010 Santa Fe has had a AC problem since one week of ownership - when it is raining and I drive the car more than 10-15 mins - the AC stops blowing cool air. My dealer has seen the problem first hand - but has no solution for it. Last fall they replaced a faulty accuator - wasn't able to test it our since was fall... but doing it again since the warm weather has started.
View 12 RepliesIt seems that my mpg gauge always drops by at least 2 mpg when it's raining, even if one goes slower because of the rain. Why is this?
View 19 RepliesI new 2015 Elantra LTD. has terribly grabby brakes in a certain scenario. That scenario is, it is rainy or wet, and I'm going very slowly, like in a parking lot. When I touch the brake pedal very lightly, the car stops abruptly! And I mean abruptly. As quick as the car comes to a halt, and not intended to, I suspect it is the front brakes. Not sure if it is the new brake pads acting peculiar, or some other issue. But, the brake grabbing problem isn't present when its dry and going slow, or when I'm going normal speeds when its wet.
View 2 Repliesso in my 2012 Elantra GLS, I just spent $500 on new brakes rotors ... and it's been roughly 7 or 8 days, and I am seeing some rust on the brakes and rotors, I'm no expert on cars, but it doesn't look normal. Hopefully, it is normal so I can stop stressing.
View 4 RepliesI'm not sure if this is the proper operation of the disc brakes because all my cars in the past were front disc and rear drum. A search turned up nothing useful so here I am.
To me, the sensation I'm having is the rear brakes are activating before the front. I sense the rear going down before the front. I don't hear any squealing or grinding. I also don't feel any vibration while braking. Perhaps it's a sensory illusion? Or is this the normal operation of disc brakes?
It is 10 degrees now (-12 C). I softly engaged the clutch and noticed the car wasn't moving. I tapped on the gas lightly and the car was trying to move, but couldn't. I finally gave it a lot of gas and there was a huge POP sound. When I park my car, I leave e-brake engaged. Are brakes suppose to stick that bad in cold weather? The Pop sounded like a .45 Pistol!!
View 9 RepliesI have the not-so-uncommon grinding brakes problem too. In my case, however, there is a scarier difference: if I have to stop suddenly and hit the brakes hard, I hear the grinding and the car kind of shakes, but then as the car is decelerating, I will actually get the feeling that the brakes have totally disengaged, and the car will lurch forward! If I then depress the brakes quickly, they will engage again and stop the car. I've had a couple of close calls in heavy traffic when cars in front of me have stopped suddenly.
I guess that the grinding might be the ABS, but I've never heard of ABS causing your brakes to konk out completely! It's to the point where I'm scared to drive the car if I know there's going to be much traffic. I bought this Elantra last October to have a nice new car to drive my 6 and 4 year old around, so I'm very unimpressed, and scared, with the whole situation.
Well this makes the 3rd time I am going to have to take my car into the dealer because of the right rear brakes. I had a guy pull up to me yesterday and tell me that I had smoke coming out of my right rear wheel, I pulled over nd the rotor had a slight blue glow to it and the caliper was smoking. This is starting to get old, I wonder when the lemon law kicks in on something like this?
View 8 RepliesI just dropped my 2014 Prius off at the dealer for regular service and they tell me the brake pads are rusted and 'locked up' into the calipers. They want to replace the front brakes. I told them that this sounds like premature wear - especially given the Prius' reputation for brake longevity - my dad had a Camry Hybrid that went 170,000km before he sold it - never having changed the damn brakes. Of course, they are claiming that this is normal wear and tear. Is this normal wear and tear, or is there something wrong with the car? - or worse, is the dealer trying to milk some cash out of me?
View 13 Replies