Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2013 - Stalled / No Power While Driving
Nov 7, 2012
First time Hyundai owner. Just bought a new Elantra 2013 for my soon to be 16 year old daughter. We picked up the car from the dealer last Sunday and the car has about 40 miles on the odometer. Tonight my daughter and I we took it out for a drive and I was driving at a speed of 30 mph and the car suddenly went dead, no power , no lights, simply nothing just complete darkness. I called Hyundai roadside assistance and they towed the car to the dealer. The tow truck driver tried to see if it was battery related and he brought a portable battery and hooked it up to the car's battery but that did nothing to power up or restart the car. This was very scary as it was like an invisible hand just pulled the plug off and switched off the car. I am very worried now as this car is for my daughter and I would hate to think what could happen driving alone or on busy roads, or at night. What could it be?
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I am 1/2 way thru a 2 hour trip driving on interstate 75 in Florida doing about 75mph when all of the sudden I couldn't steer, had no dash lights with the exception of the radio plus the bluetooth still worked and braking was very difficult. I couldn't accelerate, nothing happened when I pushed the gas pedal. Neither turn signal worked but the emergency flashers did. Managed to get it on side of highway but then it got interesting; couldn't shift out of drive and couldn't turn the car off; I could turn the key but nothing happened. After sitting on the side of the road with my foot on the brake pedal for 30 minutes I tried turning the car off again and it magically worked. I sat there for about 10 minutes and thought I would turn the car on and see what happened; turned the key and it fired up like normal and everything was working just fine.
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2013 Elantra with 62k miles. I am dealing with a strange issue where I experience sudden engine shutoff and no-crank no-start situation when I attempt to restart. This typically happens during warmer weather (above 95F / 35C).
When the engine shuts off while i'm driving, the following symptoms occur:
-Temperature gauge (all bars) disappear
-Shift level selection disappears from dash
-stability control light is illuminated
During that state, I'm unable to restart the engine (even when the level is in park or neutral). Anytime the attempt to restart, the following symptoms occur:
-all of the above symptoms when engine shuts off
-TPMS light is flashing
-engine does not crank when attempting to restart.
-Unable to move shift lever from Park when key is in ON position, even when depressing the brake pedal (have to use shift lock release to get it out of park into neutral). Trying to start the car in neutral makes no difference.
The car stays in that strange state anywhere from 5 minutes to several hours. After that, I'm able to start the car and drive it for 10-60 minutes, until above issue repeats.
The issue is NOT any of the following:
-Battery
-Starter
I know that some users have reported a similar issue due to a bad inhibitor switch, but with that issue, only the gear selection disappears from the dash (while the temp gauge and other functions remain normal). Could it possibly be a bad ECU?
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2013 Elantra (40k miles) just started having intermittent high engine rev while driving at low speeds (30-40 MPH). The rev last 1-3 seconds no engine codes showing up. The transmission does not feel like it is slipping.....
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I bought a brand new 2013 elantra last year and currently has 20,000 miles on it. I had custom halos installed as my lights that turn on automatically when the car is on and is on continuously. I also have hids installed into the headlights.
Last week my battery sign came on when I turned the car on and after driving about 20 minutes the car completely stopped and did not turn on. Took it to the dealership and they first denied me warranty saying because of all the aftermarket stuff we cant touch this car for free. So I paid for the diagnostic which was $102 and after they told me that your alternator fried but they are not sure why. Would it be because of the halos and hids??
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This morning I started my day as usual, remote started the car via the app to warm her up. I had my ac/heat and heated seats on as usual, everything else was off. After I got into the car I started it up and as I shifted out of park it immediately stalled. I thought I had taken my foot off the brake too quick and restarted the car no problem.
I pulled out of my driveway in reverse and as soon as I went to shift into drive the car stalled again. both times I maintained electricity but engine went dead. I restarted the vehicle and everything was fine for my 15 minute drive. The only message on the dash was to shift back into P OR N.
GM ignition recall debacle immediately popped into my head. My car only has 900 miles on it.
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My avante/elantra model is 1.6GLS year 2012.. last friday, it stalled. Saying, i had a low fuel, no digits on fuel tank, one bar left and linking with fuel light on. took the car to petrol station about 200metres. fueled up and drove few 50metres and engine lost power and jerking and died. I could start the car easily, engage gear to D, and able to accelerate , BUT it goes stalling or lost power when accelerate more than 15KM p/hour... it just cant go more than that... engine dies off. check engine ON. Start engine back on again, REV engine continuously, and it slows down above 3/4 rpm with a loud sound like revving without air filter.
So I called up mechanic, he change plugs, still same. he plugged OBD, and gets a KNOCK SENSOR reading on screen, he resetted it, and now the engine has a knocking kind of sound when rev and still can't move.
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13 Elantra sedan. When I turn the key to on (engine not running) The stereo turn on normally.(NON -NAV) Start the car and it turns off, no screen, no audio, just like i hit the power button. Load up the electrical system, max A/C, headlights, Etc. It turns back on like nothing happened. Voltage on the battery is 14.3 with no load and right around 14.0 when everything is loaded and i finally get it to turn back on. Do these head units have an over voltage protection? 14.3 doesn't seem that high to me.
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My 2013 Elantra is experiencing intermittent power shorts where all power (electrical is lost). Had to open door with manual key; clock resets and radio pre-sets lost.
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I bought an Elantra Gls 2013 automatic 4 doors approx 6 months ago. I have 2 issues with it ....
1- there are lack of power/acceleration issues when driving at speeds between 60 kms/hr and 80 kms/hr. If I drive at 80 kms/hr for awhile and have to slow down like say 60 or 55 kms/hr and need to reaccelerate again, the car seems to lose all its momentum. It's like the automatic transmission didn't downshift and is still in 6th gear at 1500 rpms when I slowed down to 55 kms/hr and ready to reaccelerate. I try to accelerate slowly and it's like there's an air bubble underneath the gas pedal (or resistance). I really have to step on the gas harder so the rpms will go to 2500 and then the car really picks up. It's not a steady regular acceleration....???
2- There's this vibration like feeling on the gas pedal and around driver side floor when the rpm reaches approx 2500 ( when the transmission shifts gears ). I can deal with the noisy engine but when you also feel the vibration / like metal when the car reaches 2500 rpms, it is really really annoying.
Is this common?
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Driving along, suddenly lost gears, engine revved a slight bit then lost power and stalled, the engine turns over but will not start but when it turns its in a lower key sound, the timing belt is in place but has recently been changed, would you think it has slipped? Seems a total lack of combustion in the top of the engine, would a slipped timing belt cause this?
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My 2006 stalled twice yesterday. Was running normally, then suddenly stalled after driving for 10 minutes. Error message said something like "insufficient power available". Started up fine after that, but a few miles later had the same problem.
Some potentially relevant background. The night before these two stalls I got some cheap gas from a no name station. A month earlier my car had a really rough start and check engine light came on, but it drove fine. Mechanic diagnosed a leak in the air intake tube (into turbo, I think), and replaced it. He said he got some strange codes though. (120D, 121B, 216D, 21E0 for air mass meter and fuel trim, and also control module comm code E000, 710B, 900B).
He said if the problem reoccurs I probably need an air mass sensor replacement. Thoughts?
Given it restarts so easily, I'm not too concerned re driving the ~10 miles to my mechanic, but I'll be avoiding highways and rush hour. Or, do you think, I can damage the car by driving to the mechanic?
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My Volvo with 167,000 miles lost power and almost stalled at approx. 3,000 feet in elevation driving up to the mountains from sea level. Check Engine Light came on and after getting off highway and letting it sit for a bit, it started right up and made it down to sea level without a problem. Volvo Dealer could not locate problem. Codes 3503,3513,3523 were showing up. Same problem 1.5 years ago and at that time they replaced radiator, coils, and spark plugs. They said it was not that again, however, they do not know what it is. Car has been faithfully serviced and I want to keep it. I volunteer for a seal rescue non-profit and need a reliable car!
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The first time it happened, I wasn't monitoring any PIDs as I didn't have my phone with me. Not really sure if I hit a bump or anything, it just stalled. I pulled it off to the side and put it in park and started cranking. Turned over rapidly but wouldn't start. I started freaking out thinking what am I going to do? Shut the truck completely off and waited a couple minutes and then turned the key and it started right up. Drove to my destination and didn't have another issue.
I'm only driving my truck on weekends as I have a company van and I can't park my truck at the condo I'm living at right now. So sometimes it's a few weeks between drives. This has been the story of my truck use since I nought it 3 years ago. In fact I know my turbo is sticking as the most boost it builds is 20-22 psi. I probably have a sticking injector too, as it smokes unburnt fuel until warm.
So the last few weeks when driving, I've noticed that if I hit a big bump, occasionally it dies again. What I've discovered is that it won't start unless I shut the key off entirely. Meaning, if it stalls I put it in neutral as I coast, shut the key off as far as it will go and it will start up. If I just throw it in neutral and try to start, it won't.
Watching my Torque Pro display, I've noticed that it locks up (like normal when I shut the truck off w/o shutting the Torque app off). The display then has read lower voltages than normal for FMP, FLP, FVP (main, logic and vehicle? can't remember ). FMP is normally at 48.5v and the other 2 hover around 13.9v. The last time it stalled, I noticed 9.3v for FLP and FMP was 23.4. I'm not sure if this is what it shut off at or if I panicked and tried starting it w/o shutting the key off entirely. So please don't take those readings as gospel.
I scanned it for codes, but nothing popped up.
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A friend brought to me this 06 E350 with a 6.0, which stalled on him while driving. The van will crank over good and strong, but won't run. It will how ever fire, and almost run until you let the key back (i would describe it as it does run with assistance from the starter). the FICM has 12V in and 47.5V out. And ICP is around 650 psi till it fires then it raises to 1215 psi. there are no codes either - I'm not familiar with these 6.0l...
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Have a 2004 6.0 that stalled out while driving. Wouldn't restart. Took readings this morning. ICP was very low (below 100) and IPR was at 85. After a few times of taking readings I could get the truck to start up with an ICP reading over 500 but IPR was still at 85. When it did start up it would almost immediately die. Does this sound like an IPR problem or a oil pressure problem?
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I have a 2006 F250 with an International 6.0 turbo diesel. Last Friday I was driving 70mph up hill when my truck slowed down (I wasn't hauling anything) and then stalled, I got it restarted my doing a moving restart. After that it stayed in limp mode and wouldn't go up into 4th gear it just would jump from 1st to 2nd them to 3rd if I was coasting and it would only let me go 40mph at the most, so I got a tester and tested it and the only code it gave me was glow plug 1 & 5 were misfiring so I replaced those.
After I decided to do a test drive I went 800 meters and my tuck still didn't go out of gear one and I couldn't get my truck to go more than 5mph, then it stalled, so after about 30 minutes and 2 other guys tinkering with everything, we got her started and she sounded perfect, so I took off again, same thing happened except I got her going 20 mph but her RPMS stayed under 2,000 and then it decided to sputter and then stalled.
When I went to restart her the ABS, TBC and the transmission light went off, now she won't crank over and she was clicking (starter or dead battery) and now the lights don't go off, the Windows don't work and their is no electricity flowing...... I understand the electricity, she has 2 batteries. (The first one starts i.e. Glow plugs, starter etc, the other just supplies juice to the system, I.E. Lights, fuel pump.. Etc) what is causing this?
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2016 Elantra GT. 400km on car. Just this weekend dash started squeaking while driving. Noise gone when stopped. But comes back while moving. Do these car have a speedo cable. That's what it sounds like.
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I just purchased a 2013 Elantra GT, 3 days ago. I was driving down the highway and my check engine light came on. There is only 480 miles on my car! I know it's not a gas cap. I haven't even put gas in it since I drove it off the lot. Is there a way to check for the code thrown without a scanner? I use to have a jeep liberty and I could click the key over 3 times an the code would pop up.
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Have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra that will sometimes not start . But after s few attempts it will turn over??
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra that I purchased in early July, which now has around 5500 miles. Sometime within the past couple of months, I noticed a dull clunk that occurs within the first 100 yards or so of driving. This seems to happen only when the car has not been driven for a few hours (although it seems more frequent lately), and it sounds as if something has dropped from the bottom of the car, between the front seats.
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