Is this a normal thing? I notice that my 2013 Elantra has a slight shudder when stopped in drive, most noticeable when the Air is on. It's not always there, but I would associate this with a low RPM idle.
Is this normal for these cars? It goes away when in park/N, and sometimes if I turn the air off completely.
I just bought a brand new 2013 Elantra! I love the car, but over the past week or so I have started to feel the car's transmission (auto) jerk when it shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. I feel the car hesitate somewhat when going from 3rd and then jerk into 4th gear if that makes any sense. The car has less than 1000 miles and it never did it when I first bought it. The transmission was always smooth until recently. Also, when coasting down the road I feel the car jerk forward when I give it some gas which also feels very strange to me!?
View 37 RepliesI got a new '13 Elantra GL sedan with standard transmission a month ago, and I've noticed that 1st gear is very "torquey" (always jumps when mildly applying or releasing gas pedal), and there is a very notchy shift clunk from 1st to 2nd, so loud you can audibly hear the gearshift change quite significantly. The torquiness occurs for about 1st-4th gears (It's a 6-speed), but the notchy clunk doesn't occur for any other gears except 1st, and I took my friend's 2013 Veloster stickshift for a drive the other day, and his 1st gear is MUCH smoother and less jumpy.
Also, taking off in 1st is a very delicate balance and I still stall it now and then, no matter how much I focus and practice. It also feels like it's sputtering on takeoff every time, unless I really slip the clutch (which isn't a good habit to take up). Slipping the clutch for reverse is necessary unless I want a very jumpy, very grindy and clankery (is that a word? lol) reverse.
Is this an issue with Elantra sedans in general for stickshift models, or is it a problem with my specific car? Should I bring it into the dealer?
I just bought a 2013 Elantra GLS last weekend. When the engine is running at idle and I'm standing outside of the car, the engine seems to be noisy. Maybe to the point where there is a small exhaust leak somewhere. I don't notice the noise when I'm driving the car - interior noise seems normal. Is it normal for the 1.8L engine to be a bit noisy at idle? The car just turned 100 miles.
View 5 RepliesSo as my first post was about all the upgrades/mods I wanted to get recommendations on, it saddens me that my second is about my check engine light.
I've noticed for the past week a little bit more of a "bump" when accelerating into gear. This Friday, coming home from work the check engine light came on. Checked the oil and gas cap, everything seems ok. I'm taking it into the dealership tomorrow and will update with their findings.
I'm worried cause I would never imagine the light to come on so soon. The car is barely two months old!
I just started to have some idle problems with my 2013 Elantra GLS auto 1.8 that has 10k miles.
I went to the gas station to fill up the tank since the gas was very low (30 mile range). I filled up the tank, started the car and the engine began to stumble and idle poorly like it was about to stall. I put the car in drive and the engine stalled. I restarted the car and it ran normally.
The car will now briefly idle poorly when I'm at a stop light. The car will be at a stop light idling and running normally. Suddenly, the tach will go down to 200 rpm and then up to 1200 rpm, like it is about the stall. Then it will idle steadily and be back to normal. This has happened about three times over the past two weeks.
What may be causing this intermittent idle problem?
I just bought a 2008 Elantra SE with 26K miles. So far, I've really enjoyed it, except for, at times, it does vibrate somewhat during idle.
I took it to the nearest Hyundai dealer, and they clipped the throttle cables to the inside of the firewall. This did make some improvement, but I still feel vibration during idle when the engine is warm (doesn't seem to as long as RPMs are up). It's almost as if the idle is set a little too low.
Maybe this is just normal vibration? It's not too bad, just noticeable. Can idle in these cars be adjusted? It seems the car is too new to have clogged fuel injectors. Everything else about driving it feels great, acceleration, etc. Do you think using a higher octane gas would work?
I have a 2013 F150 4x4 with a 6.2 and it has a slight miss at idle. It's done this since new and over the 20kms it has now I've been given the round around on it from 2 different dealers. I'm told there is no code so they can't do anything. I'm thinking maybe a coil? Or perhaps injector?
View 6 RepliesWhen we first bought our white 2013 GT used (21K kms) it made a slight moaning sound when you would start off from a stop while engaging the clutch. Dealer was able to replicate and diagnosed it as a bad clutch release bearing. Replaced it and moaning sound was gone. Free under warranty. Been fine ever since and car is now at 75k kms.
I just drove our other GT (black 69k kms) for the first time in ages as normally another family member drives it. I immediately noticed the same moaning sound when starting from a stop and releasing the clutch. I'm betting it's the same bearing. Is this a common issue?
My moms has a 2010 Elantra with 30,000kms on the clock, and we have noticed since new when the vehicle is started cold in the morning it seems to run rough for about 30-60 seconds then stabilizes.
It's almost like it has a slight misfire, or slight fuel flooded from sitting overnight. Now if course we have taken it to the dealership twice for this issue and dropped it off overnight for a cold start, and both times they cannot re-produce the problem.......surprise.
2003 Hyundai GLS
Starts fine, loud motorboat like noise ... then car hesitates when put in any gear for a few seconds before moving ... then drives fine. Slight shutter at low speeds 30 and under....hit the expressway and its all good. Is that the fuel pump, a relay, what? It has a brand new radiator, gasket, thermostat and cover...so its not the cooling system.
Also...the check engine light is on, the pcm code says its only issue is the cat con...I don't think this issue is related cuz it was already on when the radiator killed in the middle of the highway....the noise is new. The hesitating isn't....that's been going on since before the check engine light came on....but its getting worse.
I have a 2013 F150 3.5L Ecoboost XLT and have recently experienced a slight noise on acceleration in first gear. Sounds like a light rattle or ping. The dealer says it may be due to carbon buildup (I have noticed that the exhaust has a lot of soot on it). They are suggesting some additive to resolve this and she mentioned that the problem starts to show up at about 30,000kms. It does not affect power or cause misfire as described in posts.
View 4 RepliesI just purchased a 2005 elantra with 133k on it and she runs fine other than a slight erratic idle. And by slight I mean it will jump about 50-100 rpm idling and every blue moon it will jump up to 250 rpm sitting there. After idling for a while my CEL came on with the following codes.
P0507 idle air control rpm high
P0506 idle air control rpm low
P0170 fuel trim malfunction bank 1
P0121 throttle position sensor
What could be causing this? I took the iac off and cleaned it with maf cleaner but it didn't work.
I have a high milage (210K) '07 2.4L which has a slight engine rattling noise at idle RPM at cold and operating temps, in gear or park. It is a fairly constant noise at idle but does vary a little. Otherwise, engine/tranny operate beautifully with no obvious problems.
I am concerned this could be a timing chain/tensioner related issue although I also wonder if it may be some other component. I have not been able to determine the source or location of the sound.
I have been hearing a slight "bang" from the front of my car , mostly when I either step on the gas or let off. It's very faint, but annoying.
So last Monday I make an appointment for the car to be looked at, and after the dealership telling me I need two other things (recalls/TS done before they will even look at the problem I am calling about, I ask that a tech be available to ride with me to cut down on the diagnosing time. They tell me that all this work will take over 3 hours, and because I live 11 miles from the dealership, they won't give me a ride, I can either get a ride from someone, wait, or get dropped off at a local mall.
After dropping the car off they tell me, other than the banging, I need a ECM update and muffler clamps for the rattling heat shield. I tell them the heat shield was removed because it was falling off and I was on a long distance trip and couldn't stand the banging against the car. They tell me, don't worry, we'll fix it. I ask that a tech ride with me and was told that, if it's audible, we'll find the problem. So, my first mistake was that I trusted them, and I leave.
About 5 hours later I get a call telling me the car is all set. I ask about the banging, they tell me it couldn't be replicated by the tech after a 10 mile drive. I was a little upset. So I guess the whole point to this story, if having any kind of noise from the front end, or when shifting into park or reverse, it's probably the TSB for the driveline axle washers.....
I bought an Elantra last year and completely love it. I did notice a slight rollback when I first applied the handbrake but wasn't overly concerned because I always parked in gear anyway. But yesterday, my Elantra (parked on a sloping driveway, in first gear and with the handbrake on) rolled backwards about 5 minutes after my husband had parked it. It smashed into our wall, causing a lot of damage.
This terrifies me. My kids could've been (as they often do) unpacking their bags from the boot. My dogs often lie on the driveway. Someone could've been injured! What do I do?
I've had my 2013 Hyundai for about a week now and I feel a slight vibration/shaking when the car is stopped and I have my foot on the brake. When I was in the finance office signing all the papers, etc. The finance manager was trying to sell me the free oil changes for 3 years/tire rotations/filter change for $600. He was adamant that if I do not get all my service done by Hyundai dealer all the warranties are voided. I asked him specifically this question at least 3 times as I was appalled at the notion, and time and time again he would say the second you bring it somewhere else for an oil change the warranty is voided. 5 days later I brought the vehicle back to get my sticker, and I asked the guy at service, he said absolutely not. He said it doesn't matter as long as you have the proof/receipts.
View 18 RepliesI know all Hyundai's 1.8L Nu engines have that quiet ticking noise. But is there a slight knocking sound on the left side of the engine (around the belt area)? Could this be just the timing chain noise? It does this on idle but when on a constant speed/rpm, the engine is quiet.
View 10 RepliesI recently bought my GL less than a week ago with under 10km on it. Its been great so far but I noticed a weird movement when shifting into 3rd gear (both up and downshifting). It started happening about 2 days into driving the car.
As I shift into third gear I feel a little kickback against the forward motion. It doesn't happen all the time and it doesn't seem to be dependent on the car speed or the speed of my actual shifting. Although it happens a lot more when I shift quickly into third.
I've been told that 3rd and 5th gears are the longest and I might just need to get something adjusted at the dealership.
This kickback doesn't happen on any other gear except third (MAYBE I felt it a little on 5th but I may have been searching for it after being told about 3rd and 5th gear being long).
Purchased my 2013 Elantra GT a few months ago and have been having a problem that had stumped everyone at the dealership. Thought I'd see who else is having it and what the thoughts are. To start, this is a 6SPD Manual Transmission.
Problem: Say you're at a stop and begin accelerating in 1st gear and then shift into neutral because you have to come to a stop again. When operating normally, the RPMs immediately wind down to idle. Well for me, about 15% of the time or more, the RPMs will take up to 10-15 seconds to wind down to idle. During this time, you cannot really shift into 1st gear because the RPM are too high.
The dealership has been working on this issue since last month. They replaced some parts and it is still doing it. They got diagnostic data and told me the throttle was sticking. No one could figure it out. Engineers got involved from regional, and it got pretty heavy as far as time. After several attempts at figuring out the problem and replacing things (which didn't resolve the issue), the engineers drove another new GT and found it was also doing it. So all of a sudden they said "it's normal" and closed the case.
Chances are, if other new ones are doing it, so is yours. I got second opinions from other auto shops who said it is not at all normal and that there may be a defect in the design. I've owned 4 Manual Transmission cars and I have never seen this before. If you're curious and have the 6spd manual version of this car, the easiest and quickest way to see this happen is accelerate in 1st gear to about 4000RPM and shift into neutral. Eventually, it'll get stuck and take a significantly longer time for the RPMs to return to idle. Usually when it finally happens, it'll keep doing it for several subsequent acceleration cycles.
I have a 14 GT base with manual and I've been noticing at idle (sitting at stop lights...foot on or off brake and or clutch...in or out of gear) it has a bit of a rough idle or stumble during the first mile or two...then its fine. It doesn't feel like it will stall and if I tap the gas I do not notice any difference in throttle response. RPM needle stays steady... is the just something that is normal? It doesn't bother me a lot... just noticeable. All that aside, except the occasional lifter noise at cold start (not always...which is odd) all is good.
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