Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2013 Limited Just Randomly Turned Itself Off In Stop And Go Traffic
Jun 14, 2012
We decided to take a chance on Hyundai (never owned one before) and get an Elantra. Anyway, the car has 2,000 miles on it. My husband was in stop and go traffic today on the interstate and said the car just randomly turned itself off, out of nowhere. He started it back up and had no problems after that, but I am very concerned. It makes me question the reliability of the car to be honest. We've only had it 6 weeks! I am wondering about whether to take it immediately to the dealership or wait to see if it happens again. I don't want my husband going down a hill or something and the car randomly shuts off, so I guess safety is an issue. What would you do?
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I have a Elantra GT 2014 with about 7000 miles on it. It has been running great, pretty good gas mileage, about 28.5mpg combined. However, I do have a small irratation with it. Sometimes, during my drives, if I stop at a Red light and put my car in neutral gear, I felt the engines does a strong vibration for a few seconds sometimes. It's kinda annoying. Is that a sign of a problem for the engine in the future? or am I just being too picky?
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The trunk of my 2013 Elantra GLS pops open randomly when the car is parked, unoccupied, and I am well away from it. This happens about once every week or ten days. Last night it popped open during a heavy rain and the trunk was soaked. I can not trust the trunk as a safe place for anything of value. I suspected at first that the remote was doing this by somehow getting squeezed in my pants pocket, but I can not cause it to replicate this by pressing on the pants pocket or squeezing the remote against the key or a pocket comb or such. I have considered abandoning the remote but with no trunk key that is very inconvenient.
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS. Several times in the middle of the night the alarm that sounds when the door is locked just starts chirping randomly. Why that is?
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OK, 05 v8 4.6l
I am having very random overheating for last few weeks. Started randomly one day in stop n go traffic. Thought maybe struck tstat so replaced it. Same thing...replaced water pump, fan clutch, serpentine belt, coolant reservoir cap since then. During all those replacement I flushed system with garden hose. Burped system to best of my knowledge. Still overheats randomly. Seems to happen every day now at hot times (100*). I drive around all day for work so been watching it closely. Temp gun runs 190* on tstat housing at operating temp. When it was rising up in temp I pulled over and temp gun read 200 ish.... it is in fact getting hot. Any freaking clues? Oh and have pressure tested good....combustion test good...
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I recently had 2 coils replaces and 4 spark plugs (CODES SHOWING ACCORDING TO GOODYEAR) replaced because the engine light was ON. Now My car intermittently shuts off without warning, but will restart about 1 or 2 minutes later showing CHECK GAS CAP on dashboard. Went back to Goodyear thinking maybe faulty parts. They ask if any lights are on like the check engine light, they tell me if not they don't know, come back if it continues. I thought maybe it's my battery.
The guys at Battery Bills connected a devise to the battery that shows green if it's charged, YELLOW if it needs to be driven more(or issue) RED(not enough power PROBLEM) and I when back to them yesterday and they rechecked...Battery is fully charged. They said the alternator is good also, I'm not too sure they checked.Later after work I fuel up a the Chevron instead of Costco thinking maybe the gas??? My car starts then dies, the battery signal device is showing red.
I get a jump, the second the cables are connected to my battery the device shows green, my car starts right up. Pull out to the traffic light, car shuts off, but restarts. I was told to drive my car at least 30 minutes away from home and back about once a week, to keep battery charged because I live less than 10 minutes away from wherever I drive to....so I DRIVE about 5 minutes in my car starts to stutter(hesitate) twice, but smooths out and I also notice the RPM gauge is showing 0???? NO ERROR LIGHTS or CHECK ENGINE ARE SHOWING ON THE DASHBOARD so I continue home at a lost. My car is a 2010 Accent with 57,100 miles....
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1995 dodge neon... When I turn the car off, it burps, or bubbles air into the overfill tank. Car now also overheats when idling or in stop and go traffic. Temperature goes down when running heater.Not sure if it is the water pump or an issue with the radiator.
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I just recently purchased a 2013 Elantra Coupe, and the Engine Start Stop button will not light up anymore. The small LED above the "Engine Start Stop" lettering still lights up blue or amber if it's in ACC or ON mode, but the lettering itself no longer lights up.
I'm not sure if it's supposed to stay lit while driving, but I noticed it started to flicker at various rates, and then eventually it stayed lit. Now, it's not lighting up at all. I'm wondering if there's a fuse anywhere that could be associated with this or anything I could check myself before taking it to the dealer. I haven't had a single issue getting the car to start with the button, just wondering what could be causing the lettering on it to not light up any longer.
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My wife and I are new Elantra owners, car is just about to hit 9000 miles on it. I don't know when the noise started happening, but wasn't too long ago. My wife is okay with it, but as for me I find it rather annoying that the car is so new and already making noises. I call it a click but she describes it as a thunk.
Here's the details. The car is an automatic for starters. The noise mainly happens when accelerating from a dead stop. I'll be at a red light and when it turns green, I let the brake go and gently step on the gas and click...there is the noise. Its just a single click, loud enough to annoy me and loud enough that I could hear it when the radio volume is set to 12 or so.
It has also happened mid driving when I release the gas pedal to slow down without using the brakes. Right when I release it, I hear the click...once again a single click.
Now I have taken it to the dealer as a concern because that click wasn't there when I bought the car. They told me it was normal and after waiting 2 hours for a simple oil change to be completed I wasn't ready to argue with them. But I am getting to that point that I'm ready to argue with them, considering the car is so new and still under the warranty.
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I've relocated back to Texas, and I've noticed since the roads here are much older than the streets in Vegas, if I'm braking while going over a bump in the road my brakes seem to slip and re-grip while coming to a stop. It doesn't happen every day but it happens enough to make my heart skip a beat and think I'm about to die
I do plan on taking this to the dealership because it is pretty big problem, I have a 2013 Limited Elantra
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Last week I noticed an erratic temperature gauge while I was in stop-and-go traffic. It would go from just below halfway to nearly the red in about 7 seconds, bob around, go down a bit, then up, back down to halfway and sit for a while, etc. etc. etc. I stopped, added a little water to the reservoir and car was fine for about 20 minutes but then it started up again.
Went I got home I checked oil and it was low. I added a quart. After this the car has been fine.
Until today. It did go into the red a couple of times and sat there for a few seconds. I was surprised there were no lights or warnings of overheating! I opened the hood when I got home and didn't get the impression that the engine was particularly hot (though the upper radiator hose was hot).
I read this might be caused by air pockets in the cooling system and I need to "burp" it by taking off the radiator cap, starting the car, running the heater, and then topping up the radiator when I see the coolant level go down.
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I’m concerned about stop and go traffic here in Phoenix, where the highway traffic literally stops for minutes at a time. Then we get to move for 50-100 feet and then completely stop again. This process may continue for 30-45 minutes. How is this affecting my Prius, am I slowly killing my new car?
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When stopping on traffic light, my Slip Indicator is on and flashing...
The Owner's Manual says: If the vehicle is in danger of slipping or rolling backward when starting on an incline, or if any of the drive wheels spins, the slip indicator light flashes to indicate that the VSC/TRAC systems are operating.
Luckily, it only happened once... otherwise, I'll roll back to the dealership in the very first day I picked up my car...
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2001 hyundai elantra. Car is almost stalling randomly at stop lights. Low rpms under 500 and stops. Sometimes drops to 100 rpms then shoots up to 500 right before it might stall. Engine light came up got misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 with codes p0440 and u0d00.
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2014 Elantra GT SE tech package. This issue is intermittent so I am reluctant to take it to the dealer as they will just say there is nothing wrong if they cannot replicate the issue.
The problem I have is the ventilation inside the car stops blowing air randomly. I could be driving for 1/2 hour, 1 hour, 3 hours, and all of the sudden the amount of air blowing out of the vents drops down to almost nothing. I can still hear the fan blowing away at what sounds like full power, but air is just barely trickling out of the vents. Really sucks on hot days! This is going to be a bigger issue once winter comes.
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Me and my fiancee have a 2013 Camry SE and we've been having issues with our fuel gauge... It randomly will just stop working... First time it happened she just got in the car from work and it was at empty. When she got to work it was at half a tank... It took about 20-25 minutes of driving for it to slowly reach back to half a tank.... What could/would cause this malfunction?? And then today on her way to work it did the same thing..
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Snap or crack sound emanating from the front end whenever the steering wheel is turned or the suspension unloads/loads?
I've noticed it for awhile now but didn't think too much of it but now that it's warmed up enough for the windows to be down, it's starting to annoy me
I read the TSB a few months back regarding the rubber coupling in the MDPS unit but it seems more like a suspension noise to me.
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I recently purchased a rebuilt 2014 Ford Focus ST3 with about 11,000 miles on it. The engine is a turbocharged 2.0L EcoBoost. I usually use 91 or 93 octane fuel, whichever is the highest available. - 6 speed manual and around 285 horsepower (with tune) is a lot of fun to drive. When I bought it, I had the mechanic that was rebuilding it put an Injen cold air intake on it. A few weeks after I got the car, I took the it to a local performance shop to get it tuned. The tune works great and added a bit of power to the car, but now I have a strange issue.
About 1 time out of 75 when I take off, the car throttle is limited and displays the message "Engine fault - service engine now". On one occasion the engine even stalled on me while crossing a highway. Note that this happens while shifting into and releasing the clutch ONLY on first or second gear. In order to get my car running properly again, I need to come to a complete stop and turn off the engine and then restart it. Sometimes the check engine light stays on, but it usually goes away after I restart. The only engine code that is shown is P106B, which has something to do with an incorrect reading on MAF sensor causing the throttle body to close.
Research online told me this issue is commonly caused by a damaged/improperly sealed intake filter or a crack in the intake itself, which changes the angle that air hits the MAF sensor. I have checked both of these and they are good. I have ruled out a bad throttle body control because if that is bad it usually throws another code indicating that it is faulty.
The only thing that I can think of, and I may be wrong, is that when the performance shop tuned my car they tuned it for a stock intake. This would mean that the car does not think it should be getting the airflow that it is and throttles it down to compensate.
I am not sure what to do at this point because (A) the issue impossible to replicate and seems to happen at random, and (B) I cannot just take it to the performance shop and tell them to fix it because I am not sure what is wrong in the first place.
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Problem just started last night when I turned the defroster on. Now the engine cuts off when the air is turned on at lower speed/rpms.
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I just got my elantra on monday and on wednesday the usb connected great to my iphone 5s. Well on saturday I tried connecting my friends iphone 4s and the connection was horrible it kept going in and out a few times like it was trying to connect and eventually gave up. We thought maybe it was her phone so we tried mine but it did the same thing. Why its doing it? I just think its weird that it worked wednesday but on saturday it wouldn't connect to anything.
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Have cruise control randomly shut off? Mine does it maybe 1-2 times a week and I use it quite extensively. It pretty much only happens while on the highway. I know I'm not accidentally tapping the break, because it'll happen even when I have both feet away from the pedals.
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