Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2013 - Engine Began To Stumble And Idle Poorly Like About To Stall After Tank Filled Up
Oct 11, 2014
I just started to have some idle problems with my 2013 Elantra GLS auto 1.8 that has 10k miles.
I went to the gas station to fill up the tank since the gas was very low (30 mile range). I filled up the tank, started the car and the engine began to stumble and idle poorly like it was about to stall. I put the car in drive and the engine stalled. I restarted the car and it ran normally.
The car will now briefly idle poorly when I'm at a stop light. The car will be at a stop light idling and running normally. Suddenly, the tach will go down to 200 rpm and then up to 1200 rpm, like it is about the stall. Then it will idle steadily and be back to normal. This has happened about three times over the past two weeks.
What may be causing this intermittent idle problem?
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So when I first got my car, the dealer had put in a full tank of gas and the miles to empty range was at 347~. After several fill ups since my purchase, the miles to empty has been dropping every time I filled up. A few fill ups ago, I remember it was 327. The latest fill up was about 318. What gives? Do the current MPG avg affect this number? What is the factor for the variance?
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So yesterday my car flashed a CEL so today I got it checked out early in the morning and the SA told me that my car had the old Engine Software for MY2011 Elantra's so the dealer updated it to the newest one with the TSB and CEL was gone and I was off with a newly washed car.
Then this afternoon my car the dilemma started after I picked up my friends kids. When I started my car, the engine began misfiring to the point it barely starts I even tried revving her a lil bit but to no avail. I had to drive it to the nearest parking lot since I was parked on the street but the engine was not cooperating at all. Good thing she let me move her a few feet away just to be in a safe zone with the kids.
Called my SA and told him about the problem and he told me to call Hyundai Roadside to get my car towed. 30mins later car was at the dealer but tech's are gone for the day so I had to leave my car. The dealership was kind enough to give me a rental until I get back my car. For now I'm driving a 2011 Nissan Sentra (base model) I'll update you guys tomorrow of what happened with my car.
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I just bought a 2013 Elantra GLS last weekend. When the engine is running at idle and I'm standing outside of the car, the engine seems to be noisy. Maybe to the point where there is a small exhaust leak somewhere. I don't notice the noise when I'm driving the car - interior noise seems normal. Is it normal for the 1.8L engine to be a bit noisy at idle? The car just turned 100 miles.
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I have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
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Fill up the tank when I had 20miles to go but the figure is not changing, still going down, I'm at 9 miles.
2010 gen3.
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I have a 2010 ford f150. Every time I fill it up with gas it wont start upon the first try just turns over. Second time it sputters and then stalls.Third time it starts then runs and stalls.Fourth time it will start fine until I fill the truck up with gas again. I caught part of a Car Talk shop on Saturday May 25 about a gas fumes the new sealed gas tanks, charcoal filters. Didn't hear all of the program.I read some articles on the internet about a possible gas tank valve. What is the problem with this ford f150 truck to make it stall out after it is filled with gas???
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My wife's 2010 Chevy Traverse has 85,000 miles, and has run great over the years. The past 4 or 5 times we filled up the tank, the vehicle won't start right afterward. It turns over, but seems like it's either flooded or starved of fuel. Then, after a few tries it gets going and starts up fine until the next fill-up. The "Check Engine" light has not come on during this. At least one time it was way down on gas, and at least one of the times it had almost a quarter tank - same result. I called 2 of my repair buddies and they don't have the answer.
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I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
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My sister has a 2001 Prius w/ 150k miles. She asked me if I could shut off her check engine light. From what she tells me 1-2 times a year on very hot days (high 90s) when she starts the car it will stumble and stall (been happening since 03 when she got it).
I took it to autozone to get the codes which were:
P0300 - I assume all the misfire codes are from it stalling
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304
P1636
P3002
Since she said it was normal for the car I just cleared the codes for her. She did have this checked out one time at a dealership when the car was under warranty and they found nothing wrong and blamed it on the weather.
I searched the forums for 1636 and 3002 codes the 12v battery seems like it could be a likely culprit (it is the original battery as far as she knows). A few weeks passed while I was researching the codes and the battery options and she had another problem. (still haven't ordered the battery yet)
She says the car loses engine power 1-2 times a week (she drive 4-500mi a week). The dash stays lit up and the power comes back quickly. Sometimes while accelerating it will just stop accelerating and then go back to normal, or on the highway it will slow down and then be back to normal. Check engine light is back on and the new codes are:
P0420
P1636
P3002
I'm going to get a new battery ordered today but I'm kind of skeptical that it has anything to do with this new problem.
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The car is great. Filled up with first tank of diesel last Sunday. About 100 miles into a long ride east, the CEL came on without explanation. I double-checked the gas cap, and it had been replaced properly.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Rav 4 with apporximately 140,000 miles. When I fill the gas tank the check engine light comes on, the engine runs rough (like a misfire). Diagnostic code comes back a "lean mixture,bank 1". When the tank reaches approximately 3/4 of a tank the light goes out and the engine runs smooth and fine. Then, when the tank reaches just belwo hal a tank the light once again comes on and starts running rough again. Have drained the tank, used dry gas, Startron to counter the ethonal etc. Nothing seems to work.
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I have a 2006 VW Jetta 2.5. Every time I fill up the car all the way, i have this problem with it. i go to start the car and it wont start, i hear the engine turning, but it wont start, but if i wait for 5 mins and then try to start, it starts up and I don't have any issues with it after that.. If i fill up my car a little bit , i don't have this problem. only when i fill up the tank all the way, it gives me this trouble. What is going on and what is wrong with the car?
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I have a 2006 Town and Country with the 3.3L V6. The last four times I filled the gas tank the engine spits and sputters after running for 2 - 3 minutes. Sometimes it will even stall out. It will re-start after cranking for 4 - 5 seconds and then runs fine. It only does this right after I fill the tank and doesn't do it again until the next fill up. Thought that I might have water in the tank so I added a bottle of HEET to see if it would cure the problem, no effect at all..
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2015 Elantra, 3100km. I was running low on gas, but had 50km left on the "range". About 500 meters from the gas station I ran out of gas. I started up again and made it to the pumps and stalled.
Once I filled up, it took a while to get the car started. Once it did it stalled whenever I drove and slowed down. I can start the car in neutral (it's a manual) but when I go to drive it stalls. Engine light is on.
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I fill my gas tank to 100% but I don't pump it again and overfill it like most people do after the pump stops. I then proceed to start the car. Initially it revs up and starts fine but when it revs back down to idle it does a rough idling (and sometimes it stalls). To get around the stall, I would restart and rev the engine to 3000 rpm for about 2 mins and it would be fine enough that I can drive away without it stalling but after a mile the rough idling stops and everything is back to normal. I replaced the PCV valve and it worked for about a year but it all came back again. I am stumped and every mechanic gives me a different reason and none of the reasons are even definite. It's one of those "lets try this and see what happens". One more thing, the car runs fine. It only happens when I pump more than 75% of the tank.
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Is this a normal thing? I notice that my 2013 Elantra has a slight shudder when stopped in drive, most noticeable when the Air is on. It's not always there, but I would associate this with a low RPM idle.
Is this normal for these cars? It goes away when in park/N, and sometimes if I turn the air off completely.
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Was bleeding my brakes and clutch. Using a power bleeder and it seems as though I put a little too much pressure into the system. The Slave cylinder's green rubber boot filled with brake fluid and began leaking a little. Did I blow a seal? Is this normal with pressure like that? I feel like pushing the clutch in would give more pressure than my little hand pump gives...
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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Yesterday after I left work, i started the car and left like i always do. It wasn't crazy cold or anything, car was sitting there all day while at work, but was around 50 degrees. Anyways, i got about 2 blocks and came to a light to take a right, when i stopped at the light the car just died!?!?! I was like WTF...all the lights were lit up on the dash, i tried to start it, nada. I then put it in Park, and tried and it started right up. Got home no problems, went out after work, no problems, got to work no problems?!?!?!? Just curious, gonna call them today as i am due for an oil change...
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My 05 Elantra 2.0, 5 speed won't idle when cold til I drive it a few hundred feet. It will stall. Only then will the idle rise to what it's supposed to be. Is there some sort of cold idle sensor/module that needs replacing?
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