Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2013 - Car Stalls While Driving
Aug 18, 2013
I am 1/2 way thru a 2 hour trip driving on interstate 75 in Florida doing about 75mph when all of the sudden I couldn't steer, had no dash lights with the exception of the radio plus the bluetooth still worked and braking was very difficult. I couldn't accelerate, nothing happened when I pushed the gas pedal. Neither turn signal worked but the emergency flashers did. Managed to get it on side of highway but then it got interesting; couldn't shift out of drive and couldn't turn the car off; I could turn the key but nothing happened. After sitting on the side of the road with my foot on the brake pedal for 30 minutes I tried turning the car off again and it magically worked. I sat there for about 10 minutes and thought I would turn the car on and see what happened; turned the key and it fired up like normal and everything was working just fine.
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First time Hyundai owner. Just bought a new Elantra 2013 for my soon to be 16 year old daughter. We picked up the car from the dealer last Sunday and the car has about 40 miles on the odometer. Tonight my daughter and I we took it out for a drive and I was driving at a speed of 30 mph and the car suddenly went dead, no power , no lights, simply nothing just complete darkness. I called Hyundai roadside assistance and they towed the car to the dealer. The tow truck driver tried to see if it was battery related and he brought a portable battery and hooked it up to the car's battery but that did nothing to power up or restart the car. This was very scary as it was like an invisible hand just pulled the plug off and switched off the car. I am very worried now as this car is for my daughter and I would hate to think what could happen driving alone or on busy roads, or at night. What could it be?
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2013 Elantra with 62k miles. I am dealing with a strange issue where I experience sudden engine shutoff and no-crank no-start situation when I attempt to restart. This typically happens during warmer weather (above 95F / 35C).
When the engine shuts off while i'm driving, the following symptoms occur:
-Temperature gauge (all bars) disappear
-Shift level selection disappears from dash
-stability control light is illuminated
During that state, I'm unable to restart the engine (even when the level is in park or neutral). Anytime the attempt to restart, the following symptoms occur:
-all of the above symptoms when engine shuts off
-TPMS light is flashing
-engine does not crank when attempting to restart.
-Unable to move shift lever from Park when key is in ON position, even when depressing the brake pedal (have to use shift lock release to get it out of park into neutral). Trying to start the car in neutral makes no difference.
The car stays in that strange state anywhere from 5 minutes to several hours. After that, I'm able to start the car and drive it for 10-60 minutes, until above issue repeats.
The issue is NOT any of the following:
-Battery
-Starter
I know that some users have reported a similar issue due to a bad inhibitor switch, but with that issue, only the gear selection disappears from the dash (while the temp gauge and other functions remain normal). Could it possibly be a bad ECU?
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2013 Elantra (40k miles) just started having intermittent high engine rev while driving at low speeds (30-40 MPH). The rev last 1-3 seconds no engine codes showing up. The transmission does not feel like it is slipping.....
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I bought a brand new 2013 elantra last year and currently has 20,000 miles on it. I had custom halos installed as my lights that turn on automatically when the car is on and is on continuously. I also have hids installed into the headlights.
Last week my battery sign came on when I turned the car on and after driving about 20 minutes the car completely stopped and did not turn on. Took it to the dealership and they first denied me warranty saying because of all the aftermarket stuff we cant touch this car for free. So I paid for the diagnostic which was $102 and after they told me that your alternator fried but they are not sure why. Would it be because of the halos and hids??
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My 2010 Elantra stalls while driving, even on the highway, and then won't restart right away. It has been at the dealer for a week now, and they have determined that the ECU is the problem.
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I was driving my car on Sunday and twice within a span of 30-45 minutes the car stalled while I was driving and just shut off. I had driven 70-80 miles earlier in the day without stopping, and after about an hour, went back out to run some errands. After a light turned green, I proceeded through the intersection and made it halfway before the car stalled. Luckily, it was on an incline and I was able to coast to a parking lot out of the way of traffic. I tried to immediately restart the car, but the engine would attempt to start, but not fire, like the alternator was faulty.
After waiting 10 minutes, the car started up, and I immediately tried to make it to an auto part store. I made it about 10 minutes down the road and the car stalled again in front of the auto part store. They came out to check the battery, alternator, and started, and said all were fine and they were not showing any issues from their test. After waiting another 10 minutes, the car started up and I was able to make it home.
I dropped the car off at the local dealer on Monday and was told they are not able to replicate the problem, and the computer is not showing any codes, so they are not sure on what to do or fix.
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06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
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I have a 2010 F150 SCREW with 4.6l 3v 4wd. Up to 100,000 miles nothing more than tires, brakes, and evap purge valve (50,000 miles). Check engine light came on right around 100,000 miles and had no driving problems other than some crappy fuel mileage. Did the following:
Changed evap purge valve, reset cpu by unplugging. CEL came back on after about 200 miles
Took the truck to a shop to get oil change, change plugs, diff fluids, transfer case fluid and get CEL looked at. Shop recommended changing intake gasket as you could see gummy type fluid on passenger side valve cover. When removing the intake found the intake cracked, changed gasket and intake. They reset the light. 200 to 250 miles later the CEL came back on.
Took it back to the same shop, left it with them for the weekend. they think it could be the O2 sensors. I went out and got the shop all 4 O2 sensors and they installed for free (seeing as I spent $2500 with them for all the previous weekends work) 200 to 250 miles CEL came back on
Determined to find time to have another shop look at the problem and trying to get it to a family friend, wasted about a month. At the end of February stopped at a friends house after being there for 20 minutes tried to start truck, it wouldn't fire. It would crank but no fire. Called for a tow and while waiting tried to crank the truck and it fired up, like nothing was wrong. Cancelled the tow truck and drove right to dealership. They determined it was the MAF sensor. Spent the $500 to have them diagnose and change MAF. All things good for about a month and about 3000 miles...
Now in the past 2 weeks it has done the following: I am a construction manager so i am in and out of my truck all day so the engine is never really a cold start except for the mornings when driving to work, it stalled while leaving work on a Friday at low speed. luckily I was able to pull in to a gas station. Tried to restart and it cranked but no fire. after 5 minutes or so tried again, fired up drove home the 35 miles with no problem, truck had power, smooth idle. No CEL.
Same weekend on Sunday, coming home from church at highway speed truck got sluggish, wrench light came on, no response to throttle. Rolled to a stop and then the oil light came on and chime from dash. Turned the key all the way off waited 10 seconds, again crank but no start. Waited 5 minutes and it fired up no problem. Church is only 3 or 4 miles away, no problem going to church, 2 miles into the trip home is when it stalled.
Drove all week, 500 plus miles without a stall or problem
Coming home on Saturday from my kids soccer game again 4 or 5 miles away (no problem going to game) truck stalled at highway speed. Coast to a stop, wrench comes on and then oil light, chimes from dash. Turn key off, wrench and oil light do not come back on. Try to start, again crank but no fire. waited the 5 minutes or so and it fired up fine. (Earlier in the day i got gas, 87 octane, from a one of my regular gas stations from 1/4 tank to full)
Today coming home from church but running an errant the truck stalls after making a left turn about 3 miles from the church at low speed.
All of this without a CEL. What can solve this problem. Clean a sensor? clean throttle body? Gas tank additives? I am due for an oil change and may ask the dealer to look at it but its going to be time consuming as I cant radially repeat the problem and there is no CEL. As I am thinking about the different times it stalled, other than the first time I was probably around 1900 to 2300 rpm.
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2016 Elantra GT. 400km on car. Just this weekend dash started squeaking while driving. Noise gone when stopped. But comes back while moving. Do these car have a speedo cable. That's what it sounds like.
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I just purchased a 2013 Elantra GT, 3 days ago. I was driving down the highway and my check engine light came on. There is only 480 miles on my car! I know it's not a gas cap. I haven't even put gas in it since I drove it off the lot. Is there a way to check for the code thrown without a scanner? I use to have a jeep liberty and I could click the key over 3 times an the code would pop up.
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Have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra that will sometimes not start . But after s few attempts it will turn over??
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra that I purchased in early July, which now has around 5500 miles. Sometime within the past couple of months, I noticed a dull clunk that occurs within the first 100 yards or so of driving. This seems to happen only when the car has not been driven for a few hours (although it seems more frequent lately), and it sounds as if something has dropped from the bottom of the car, between the front seats.
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I have a 2013 Elantra w/tech pkg (bought brand new) and I have about 106k miles on it. Today I noticed this strange issue where when I let off the gas, it's like the engine doesn't notice right away and continues to apply power. It's only a delay for about a second or so, but it's noticeable enough that I'm writing this. It's really odd and I don't know what to make of it.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Elenatra 7 months old. the trunk opens by itself very often. I asked at the service department at the dealership and they say never heard of this problem. Also I came out yesterday the battery was dead even thought nothing was left on. I fell there must be some electrical or switching problem with this car.
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I've had the car since the end of April. About 8 or 9 times I've had people come into my office and tell me that my truck is open.
If you own one of these you know that the word "hair trigger" does not come to mind with opening the truck remotely. You have to purposely work the trunk button. I really don't thinks it's because I sat on the key fob or bumped it so it accidentally opened the trunk.
As you can imagine I keep valuable things in my trunk so this is not good.
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In the last two weeks, our 2013 Elantra (we have a 2014 also) has developed what I can only describe as a "hum" from the front of the car... only at speeds over 40 mph. It sounds like a electrical transformer hum/buzz. Other than the sound, the car drives and performs as always. It just went over 52k miles.
If you are going 70 mph and put the transmission in neutral, it's still there. Not a transmission sound. If you turn the A/C on and off, it's still there. Not the A/C compressor. It does not get much louder or more pronounced as speed increases, which lead me to believe it is not the alternator or a pulley, and you can't hear it when the car is parked and you rev it up.
The only other source I can think of is the electric power steering motor. I am taking it to the dealer in a few days to let them see if they can diagnose and correct this issue.
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My 2013 Elantra won't shift out of park. I know that I should check fuses, but what fuses might be associated with this. (The brake lights are not affected)...
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The guage on my '13 Auto is always 3-5 mpg optimistic vs my hand calculated mpgs. I find this unacceptable since the guage on my '08 350z's always within 0.2 mpg , and some times it is right on the dot! How inaccurate is yours? And I do fill at the same pump, though i know this isn't an absolute guarantee the tank is being filled exactly the same every time, but still, off by 5 mpg?
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I have an Elantra 2013, the issue that I face is that when I turn OFF the A/C, the recirculation turns off by itself which I don't want as it will allow dust to accumulate through the open vents when the Car is parked overnight.
So each time I turn off the a/c, I need to press the recirculation button as well so I can turn off the car with recirculation ON. Doesn't happen in other cars..
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Picked up my brand new elantra last week, however alarm was not working properly. It arms ok (i.e., horn chirps after two clicks, lights flash etc)...but when we tried to test the alarm (as part of my delivery inspection), nothing happened. We tried opening door without key, opening from a half open shutter etc.
Dealer promised to resolve issue, they've been good so far, but it's worrying me a bit, brand new car, I shouldn't have to think of these issues and take my car and leave it in the dealer garage for a few days for them to diagnose this.
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