Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2012 - Vibration / Shaking When Making Hard Right Turns
Dec 14, 2011
I have purchased a 2012 Elantra for my wife and I have noticed a fairly significant vibration/shaking when making hard right turns. It is most noticeable during medium to hard sweeping right turns at speeds between 30-45 mph. Strangely enough I have no left turn issues at all and do not notice any vibrations at or above highway speeds. We did hit a pothole on the right side with both front and rear tires making impact a few months ago around 55mph but there is no noticeable wheel or tire damage. I did take the car to a Hyundai dealership after noticing this issue and they did not have any issues or find anything wrong (just my luck). I am thinking of rotating the tires to the other side to see if anything changes. Also I should add I am sure this is not an ABS or stability control issue because I can hit the same corner in the opposite direction at greater speeds without any issues.
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I have been getting this weird bumpy feeling when making left hand turns and even sometimes when going strait on the road. It does not seem to effect the breaking for acceleration of the car. This does not happen all the time and will start and stop without any change in driving.
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I've had my 2013 Hyundai for about a week now and I feel a slight vibration/shaking when the car is stopped and I have my foot on the brake. When I was in the finance office signing all the papers, etc. The finance manager was trying to sell me the free oil changes for 3 years/tire rotations/filter change for $600. He was adamant that if I do not get all my service done by Hyundai dealer all the warranties are voided. I asked him specifically this question at least 3 times as I was appalled at the notion, and time and time again he would say the second you bring it somewhere else for an oil change the warranty is voided. 5 days later I brought the vehicle back to get my sticker, and I asked the guy at service, he said absolutely not. He said it doesn't matter as long as you have the proof/receipts.
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ok, here's the story about my brake change on a 2012 elantra GLS. I changed my pads and rotors myself, he has done many brake jobs with little to no problems over he years. anyway, changed them on all four wheels and now on the drivers side there is a slight noise that happens sometimes. The noise happens once very rotation of the tire/rotor, not a constant noise. it sounds almost like the pads are hitting the rotor at a certain point and making a grind noise. the brakes seems to function properly and the noise happens only when rolling at slow speeds or when accelerating from a stop.
I have done everything properly, even used some caliper glue to hold the pads against the caliper. what my question is, is there anyway that the rotor is warped from the manufacturer? it sounds like it is warped and the pads hit it once every rotation. I have opened them up 3 times now to make sure everything is proper, even put it in drive jacked up with no wheel on it to see if its running smooth, of course it wont make the noise when jacked up.
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We have a 2012 Elantra Elite 6spd manual and ever since we bought it (from new) there has been an irritating noise like a graunch or short vibration that happens (sometimes but not all the time) when we are pulling away from a stand still e.g. traffic lights, parking spaces, etc in first gear.
It does not always do it and seems to be only in first and sometimes reverse but rarely. We have flagged this numerous times with the dealer (all recorded in their records), although until now they claimed they could not repeat the problem and given it is intermittent I will give them the benefit of the doubt but only just.
Finally I managed to get them to take it in today and have a look at the problem after taking a technician for a drive to demonstrate the issue and show how it does not matter if the car is under load or not it. I think it sounds like something rubbing/vibrating and coming from the cabin and not the engine bay.
The dealer has concluded that none of the exhaust TCB's are the cause and they have concluded that it is a "glazed" clutch plate or flywheel (without actually looking at it). The upshot is that the dealer says Hyundai say it is not covered by the warranty and if I want them to strip it down and have a look I have to pay for it. I have never heard of this phenomenon and in all the manual cars I have had if something goes wrong in the clutch or bearing area the noise is usually constant.
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I purchased a 2012 Elantra Limited w/Tech last Wednesday and it has about 250 miles on it now. Downshifting is kind of hard. I've been driving with Eco mode on but have noticed the same thing w/o it on.
I'll get up to 45 mph and then let the car coast, every time the car downshifts a gear I feel it in the car. It causes me to jolt forward a little bit and is not very smooth. It shifts the same way while accelerating but then I don't really notice it b/c I'm speeding up.
It is annoying while just coasting b/c it feels like the car is braking a little every time it drops down a gear. Also, if it pushes me forward a little bit then the car probably is braking a little which seems kind of against the point of coasting...
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So I have a 2012 Elantra Limited. From what I understand the power steering is no hydraulics and is only electric assist. So I have a strange problem. I can remember in previous cars when a power steering pump was going bad it made a whining type noise that changed with engine speed. My Elantra is making the same type of noise. I'm trying to track this down. My car doesn't have any other symptoms aside from the noise. It's hard to really tell but it does appear to be coming from the belt side of the motor (passenger side).
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Have a 2012 Camry 4cyl. LE, auto trans. This is especially noticeable when making right turns on city streets, and occasionally on left turns. When trying to accelerate back up to speed, it takes a second or two to begin to speed up, sometimes shifting down and then accelerating. What possible causes for this strange phenomenon? Just after buying it (used, very low mileage, 4000miles). I took it to the dealer, they said that that is normal.
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It has 158,000 miles on it and you can feel the engine vibration through the steering wheel, seats, and floorboard, and especially through the gas and brake pedals! Under the hood the engine shakes in place and very badly . it stops at about 1500 rpm and got worse when I installed a intake...
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I have a 2003 Ford F150 with a 5.4V8 Triton 4X4. The truck is about to roll over 200K here soon. I am feeling/hearing a vibration/grinding sound coming from the truck when I am moving slowly and making turns, either left or right turns. Seems to happen more so on left hand turns. I have changed all power train fluids and filter, and still does it. I do not feel or notice the vibration/grinding when I am going straight or at highway speeds. It is only when I am moving from a stop and making turns. How to diagnose, find out, repair, fix this issue?
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Last year, when the passenger's side CV boot ripped and all that grease few around, it started to make that familiar clicking sound when making turns. I had a heck of a time replacing it. Did not like to doing the work.
Now, the driver's side boot is ripped. Grease everywhere. The clicking sound is just starting to be noticeable. Can I just wash out the CV joint and repack it with grease and a new boot? Or, should I just replace the CV joint?
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Nearly new Camry with 9,000 miles. When trying to get back up to speed after making right or left turns, there is a definite hesitation before accelerating. No hesitation when accelerating from a dead stop. Also transmission kicks down at very small hills/grades where if not on cruise control, it would not need to "kick down" to maintain speed. This is a 4 cylinder engine and provides adequate power when not running in "cruise". I suppose this is just the nature of the breed. Except for these two small problems, it is a fine comfortable car.
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I have a 2010 prius and today when i was driving the car it started shaking every time I brake and after a little bit. I realized that the car was having trouble shifting from battery to engine and engine to battery and once the battery runs out the car shuts off and when I start it again it starts in engine mode and charges the battery..
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2015 6.7L Super Duty ... I bought this truck 74,000 miles and almost two years ago. About 6 months ago it developed a vibration and a very hard shaking of the steering wheel when (so far) turning to the left. First began when, from a dead stop at a red light, I turned left onto an uphill I-41 on-ramp. Scared the crap out of me and I had to pull over to a dead stop to get it to stop. Happened several times but only on this ramp. Local Ford dealer checked it out 2 oil changes ago and couldn't find anything wrong. Now, 2 weeks ago it did it on the highway at 65 mph on a slow, 80-ish degree and downhill turn on a 4 lane highway in Milwaukee. Again had to almost stop for the wildly shaking steering wheel to return to 'normal.' Am taking truck back to same dealer this Wednesday for it's next oil change and they will check it out again. I pull a 37 foot, 15K pound 5th wheeler and don't need to lose control at 70 mph!!!!!
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When I start the car and its cold outside the car is shaking like a leaf for about 1 minute and when I arrive at 3000rpm there is like a vibration in the steering and in the pedals.
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My 2010 Prius engine shakes/vibrates when the engine is showing between 50-75 MPG on the gauge/meter on the dashboard. There is no vibration when coasting (100 MPG on the gauge/meter on dashboard) or when I am accelerating pretty modestly. Only when accelerating very softly. It started a month or so after I had my spark plugs replaced at 133K miles last June 2015. It has gotten progressively worse. It is especially noticeable once the engine is warm or the outside temperature is warm. During the winter months the vibration was there slightly, but not nearly as noticeable as it is becoming now that warmer weather is here.
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So I recently bought a Hyundai Elantra Gt 2003 that I totally love. But ever since I bought it, it struggles to turn on. It makes a cranking noise before it turns on, and it takes about 2 to 3 times for it to fully turn on. I changed the crank shaft sensor and the fuel pump. What can it be?
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I noticed on my way to work this morning that while I was in Neutral, the whole car shakes. Like, I can feel the entire car shaking, as if there's a Semi next to me. Yet, when I put it Drive or Park, the shaking stops. If I leave the car in Drive, it also will not shake, only when I shift into Neutral. I did notice, that the Tachometer was in the ~600RPM range when the shaking was occurred.
This isn't the first time it's done it, it's happened before. It rarely does it, usually a while after the engine is running. And it's only once, if I run the car all day, it won't shake at all.
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I'm four weeks into my 2010 LX570. From first day, I've had vibration/shaking at all speeds--the shaking/vibration is not in the steering wheel like a few others have described. The vibration/shaking is similar to what one experiences going over a railroad track in a small/lightweight vehicle, except it happens on all types of roads and at all speeds.
Two trips to two different tire installers and one trip to Toyota (the closest Lexus dealer is a couple hours for me) to speak with their Lexus-certified mechanic and it was chalked up to the Dunlop tires. The Dunlops had excessive road force (three were between 28 and 45). Three separate sessions with Lexus Customer Relations, and nearly two weeks with Lexus of Orlando (they were extraordinary, even though I did not purchase from them), all four tires were replaced with Michelins, road force balanced to less than 8 each, and the vehicle extensively tested. They bent over backwards and were exceptional. While the problem has been minimized, I still feel the vibration/shake.
I'm coming out of years with several Range Rovers, but every other vehicle I have does not vibrate/shake, from my Tundra on up. I just spent two weeks in an ES300 and it was rock solid, at half the weight and half the cost. Additionally, none of my Land Cruisers (previous generation to the current) were anything like this. The LX is a great vehicle, but the vibration/shake is a real issue.
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My Corolla was purchased new, and at 29500 miles it started getting a strange vibration (not the steering wheel but the car itself) whenever going up a hill or at higher speeds on the highway but ONLY when the gas was pressed (You once you let your foot off the gas at the same speed the vibration stops). After three attempts of taking the car to the dealer where the vehicle was purchased, the only responses I got were "We cannot duplicate the problem." After about the 6th time, I drove the car with one of the Sales Managers because the Service Manager wasn't there, and that manager felt the vibration, the dealership kept the car for three days, after which told me nothing is wrong, and returned the vehicle to me. I then turned to Toyota Headquarters, who set me up with a case and a case worker, and all he told me was to try working with another dealer. I went to a second dealer (closer to me house), and they did several inspections and doing a rotation, balance, and alignment.
They said the problem was unknown, but that they RECOMMEND that I get four new tires, thinking that MIGHT solve the problem. I bought 4 new tires, and after getting the tires replaced, and balanced and aligned AGAIN, the problem continues. The Toyota dealership then told me that they don't know what the problem is, and now I'm out of options. I don't know where else to turn, who else to speak with, and what else to do. I already paid off 2 years of the finance on my car, and have 2.5 years left. Side notes (whether irrelevant or not): The day I bought my car my mother got the same exact car just a different color. Her car now has 20000 more miles than mine, and runs beautifully. My car on the other hand, besides the vibration issue, seems like it has less power and has a very difficult time accelerating, unlike the other Corolla.
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I have an Elantra 2013, the issue that I face is that when I turn OFF the A/C, the recirculation turns off by itself which I don't want as it will allow dust to accumulate through the open vents when the Car is parked overnight.
So each time I turn off the a/c, I need to press the recirculation button as well so I can turn off the car with recirculation ON. Doesn't happen in other cars..
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