Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2012 - Short Vibration When Pulling Away From A Stand Still
Sep 20, 2013
We have a 2012 Elantra Elite 6spd manual and ever since we bought it (from new) there has been an irritating noise like a graunch or short vibration that happens (sometimes but not all the time) when we are pulling away from a stand still e.g. traffic lights, parking spaces, etc in first gear.
It does not always do it and seems to be only in first and sometimes reverse but rarely. We have flagged this numerous times with the dealer (all recorded in their records), although until now they claimed they could not repeat the problem and given it is intermittent I will give them the benefit of the doubt but only just.
Finally I managed to get them to take it in today and have a look at the problem after taking a technician for a drive to demonstrate the issue and show how it does not matter if the car is under load or not it. I think it sounds like something rubbing/vibrating and coming from the cabin and not the engine bay.
The dealer has concluded that none of the exhaust TCB's are the cause and they have concluded that it is a "glazed" clutch plate or flywheel (without actually looking at it). The upshot is that the dealer says Hyundai say it is not covered by the warranty and if I want them to strip it down and have a look I have to pay for it. I have never heard of this phenomenon and in all the manual cars I have had if something goes wrong in the clutch or bearing area the noise is usually constant.
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For a few years now my 2012 elantra has been pulling to the right. I got new tires and a alignment yesterday and it hasn't seemed to fix the problem. Now I think it must be a bigger problem than just the alignment. What the problem could be? I will probably take it into the dealer and see what they say.
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I have a couple of questions. Been driving for about 4 weeks now. Just took it to Hagerstown, MD yesterday and noticed something odd when driving up the mountains. (We have lots of mountains to travel up and down out here in western MD) When I would get to 3k RPMs, I would notice something strange, kind of like a pulling or tugging. (Think of it like a circle with a line somewhere no hit. Every time you hit that line, there is a little vibration or tug, kind of like if you have a rock or something stuck in your tire and you hear a noise every time you hit that spot on the tire against the road).
However, it only occurred when going up the mountain at 3k RPMs. If it kicked up to 4k RPMs, it didn't happen. It I was below 3k RPMs, it didn't happen. Is it normal? Is it related to the Active ECO system? I didn't try running it uphill without cruise control on. Could it be because I had cruise control in use? Just wondering if this is normal. I was reading the manual and it did state that you would notice a difference when Active Eco was engaged when going uphill as the engine would be a little less powerful or less quick to gain power. Also, what is "sport mode"? The plus and minus signs to the right of D on the gear shift?
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I have purchased a 2012 Elantra for my wife and I have noticed a fairly significant vibration/shaking when making hard right turns. It is most noticeable during medium to hard sweeping right turns at speeds between 30-45 mph. Strangely enough I have no left turn issues at all and do not notice any vibrations at or above highway speeds. We did hit a pothole on the right side with both front and rear tires making impact a few months ago around 55mph but there is no noticeable wheel or tire damage. I did take the car to a Hyundai dealership after noticing this issue and they did not have any issues or find anything wrong (just my luck). I am thinking of rotating the tires to the other side to see if anything changes. Also I should add I am sure this is not an ABS or stability control issue because I can hit the same corner in the opposite direction at greater speeds without any issues.
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My 2013 Elantra is experiencing intermittent power shorts where all power (electrical is lost). Had to open door with manual key; clock resets and radio pre-sets lost.
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Went to pull on the hood latch lever and nothing happened. It almost appears that the cable/ball has either popped or broken off the latch. While pulling on the lever you can hear a sliding noise at the latch.
I removed the bottom panel under the bumper but no support there as the latch is covered and not accessed from that location. There is a slight gap from the front under the hood and above the logo but how to get around to this.
How to at least open the hood from the outside. Remember, the cable won't release.
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After my steering wheel replaced I've noticed that new wheel is not centered. I was way too much to the right when driving straight, so I went back to dealer and ask him to fix it. He said that he fixed it and even recalibrated steering wheel (or something) and should be OK. So here is my question. The wheel is now a bit to much to the left (see picture). Do you think it is acceptable (within the specs) and it cannot be adjusted better? Should I go back and complain or I am just to much paranoiac.
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Sometimes when I stand at idle, the engine seems to vibrate more than usual. I looked at the RPM gauge and it didn't move at all, it's at roughly 1000-1100 RPM when it occurs. Is it something I should show to the dealer?
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Noticing excessive vibration when the AC is turned on?
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Another issue I have had for at least a year is when driving in rain for awhile, then gently come to stop, get a noise that shouldn't be there and whole car vibrates. Noticed about a year ago when driving on interstate, raining something terrible, been going several hours and stopped for gas. The whole car shook while slowing down.
Also made a terrible noise and no it was nothing to do with ABS, nothing was locking up and it was driving at 30 mph and stopping at a very slow pace. It was not the ABS noise. Actually didn't want to press brake pedal hard as vibration and noise got worse the more you pressed. I figured pads must be wet. Eventually it stops and all was fine, figured they dried. No I didn't go through any water puddles, just interstate driving in rain for long period of time. Pads are in good shape as far as ware goes.
I just forgot about it until it happen again the other day when hardly any rain and short drive in town. Question is, never had it on other cars/truck. My truck I can take through the low water bridge and don't experience any brake issues, don't take car through low water bridge.
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We have gotten a record breaking amount of snow this winter and it has been tough on the smaller vehicles. The last couple days my car has developed an odd issue. When I start the car and it is not warmed up as in there is only one bar on the engine temp meter, I put the car into reverse but don't take my foot off the brakes and the car starts to vibrate strongly. Once it's warmed up to a few bars it operates normally. I know the brakes have some ice on them too but that is a different matter, also there is snow/ice packed into the underside due to the amount of snow on the roads here.
Car is currently parked in my garage with the heater heater on so hopefully it can melt some of the junk from the underside by tomorrow.
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I'm wondering if I have a problem or if its a matter of not used to this new "fly-by-wire" steering system cars are going to.
When I put my hands at 11 and 2 on the steering wheel and slowly slide my hands down to 9 and 3, the steering wheel has a shimmy/vibration. Doesn't happen while driving, turning, or anything. Is this normal? I could get the camcorder out and do a small video of it.
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Had an annoying vibration when pulling from a stop til up to speed or if I was going up a hill at low speed. Figured it was the exhaust heat shield so I took it in for service. I was told that it was indeed the heat shield and that there is a service bulletin regarding it. I believe they repaired it with a pair of clamps.
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I just purchased a Hyundai Elantra Limited edition car and I am hearing a noise while I am driving. I'll do my best to describe it but it is a difficult noise to decipher. I can hear the noise anytime I am driving but it is more difficult at lower speeds but the noise does increase at lower speeds when I am slowing down. But the noise persists whether or not I am pressing on the brakes so I don't think it is brake related. The noise only happens while the vehicle is in motion. It almost sound like the cross between a rubbing and grinding noise but it also has a internal encased sound. The sound is low pitched and the speed of the sound doesn't change with the speed of the vehicle. I first suspected the brakes because I heard a squealer going off. When I took it in for repair, one of the rear calipers was stuck and so I got both calipers replaced. They said the front brakes looked fine. After doing that repair, the squealer noise is obviously gone since the brakes were repaired but the other noise persists. I would suspect a wheel bearing if the owner hadn't told me it was just replaced. Plus I would have thought that the will bearing noise would change along with the speed of the car.
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I had a new trailer hitch installed on my 2013 Hyundai Elantra Coupe last month...after a couple of days I noticed a vibration noise in the right rear...I took it in to the dealer, they said they hitch didn't fit right and the vibration was caused by the hitch...they recommended I take it back to the installer (e-trailer). So I took it back to e-trailer...they looked at it and said they work with the dealers to design the specs for the hitches and there shouldn't be an issue...so they say they found a piece of styrofoam that was loose in the fascia and that was causing the vibration...so tomorrow I'm going back to the dealer to have them see if they see the same problem...so far I'm getting the old 'it's not my problem'...I really don't care whose problem it is, I just want it fixed!
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My friend got her front brakes and rotors replaced a few days ago and now the brake pedal is vibrating at various times. It happens when slowing down and at a complete stop. Sounds like the ABS is kicking in to me, BUT is also does it sometimes when driving at low speeds (under 40mph) without pressing the brake pedal. No loud clicking noises, just a quick steady vibration felt at the brake pedal/flooboard.
The service was not done at Hyundai dealership. She is out of town at the moment so we haven't had a chance to take it to the shop yet. She called, they played dumb apparently. I don't know enough about Hyundais to diagnose.
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My car gives off a pulsating vibration when I'm stopped (at a light, or in my driveway, for example). Its as if someone with huge bass is sitting next to me, but I'm alone. Its a weird "jerking" feel where I can feel my seat shake like a mini earthquake.
I've tried researching "rough idle" but don't fully understand it. Rough idle implies a clogged intake, which kind of makes sense I guess. I have something better than "my car kinda vibrates when I'm stopped".
Its a 2012 Elantra Limited, all stock everything, 53981 miles.
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS Sedan, 6 speed manual with 65,000 miles. I recently bought a new set of wheels for my car brand new. I had tires mounted and balanced. I brought them home and installed them on my car myself and had no problems, this was about 3 thousand miles ago (1 month). 2 days ago I went down for my first oil change and tire rotation since getting the new wheels. The technician who I trusted suggested I balance the two rear wheels when bringing them to the front, so I went ahead and let them do that.
When I left the shop I noticed the front left wheel had a "thumping" sound when driving, as if there was a large nail hitting the ground every time the wheel went around. You can feel this in the floor. I just went back today to the shop to have them look at it and they too can feel it when driving. They put my car on the lift and while in gear they said they noticed the left front CV joint turning but it was not straight. It wobbled a bit. They showed me the play in it when pushing it up and down and said that it was not normal.
They were not trying to get me to replace them, the mechanics actually suggested I went to the Hyundai dealer to have it looked at. I'm replacing my front brakes tonight and I will be rotating that tire to the rear again to see what happens. I'm just curious as whether the play we noticed in the CV joint is normal, if they could have screwed up the tire balance somehow (which they did not recheck) or if the CV wobble could possibly be normal. I'll be switching that tire to the back and if the vibration is in the rear it will be going back down to Monro muffler and brake. If the problem remains in the front I will be visiting the Hyundai dealer.
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4 cylinder car engine that doesn't shake like a tractor at idle ? I've got a 3 cylinder tractor that idles smoother.
I like my Elantra except for the tire/road noise and the intermittent BAD vibration at idle. It shakes the whole car. Odd that it doesn't do it all the time. AC seems to make it worse......sometimes. I think I can fix the road noise with different tires but fear that the dealer is going to say:" Nothing wrong. They all shake like that at idle."
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I've had my 2013 Hyundai for about a week now and I feel a slight vibration/shaking when the car is stopped and I have my foot on the brake. When I was in the finance office signing all the papers, etc. The finance manager was trying to sell me the free oil changes for 3 years/tire rotations/filter change for $600. He was adamant that if I do not get all my service done by Hyundai dealer all the warranties are voided. I asked him specifically this question at least 3 times as I was appalled at the notion, and time and time again he would say the second you bring it somewhere else for an oil change the warranty is voided. 5 days later I brought the vehicle back to get my sticker, and I asked the guy at service, he said absolutely not. He said it doesn't matter as long as you have the proof/receipts.
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I bought an Elantra Gls 2013 automatic 4 doors approx 6 months ago. I have 2 issues with it ....
1- there are lack of power/acceleration issues when driving at speeds between 60 kms/hr and 80 kms/hr. If I drive at 80 kms/hr for awhile and have to slow down like say 60 or 55 kms/hr and need to reaccelerate again, the car seems to lose all its momentum. It's like the automatic transmission didn't downshift and is still in 6th gear at 1500 rpms when I slowed down to 55 kms/hr and ready to reaccelerate. I try to accelerate slowly and it's like there's an air bubble underneath the gas pedal (or resistance). I really have to step on the gas harder so the rpms will go to 2500 and then the car really picks up. It's not a steady regular acceleration....???
2- There's this vibration like feeling on the gas pedal and around driver side floor when the rpm reaches approx 2500 ( when the transmission shifts gears ). I can deal with the noisy engine but when you also feel the vibration / like metal when the car reaches 2500 rpms, it is really really annoying.
Is this common?
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