Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2012 - Radio / Remote And Lights Inside Do Not Work
Dec 8, 2015
After replacing the battery on a 2012 Hyndai Elantra the Clock, radio, remote control and the inside light stopped working. I saw a thread that says open the fuse box inside the car to the left of the steering wheel and push the Yellow Fuse switch to the Off position then click any button on the remote control then put the switch back to the On position and everything should work again which it did for about a month.
Now the remote, the radio, clock and inside lights are not working again. I did what i did last time and everything works fine when the switch is in the OFF position, but when I put it back to the ON position then all these things stop working. All fuses are fine I checked the Memory, Multimedia, BMC fuses and they are all good. When the switch is in the OFF position the car gives you a blinking message SWITCH ON , which means it's telling you to have the switch in the ON position. I have 64, 000 miles which means it's out of warranty now.
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I was changing my lights to led.. i finished the two lights in the passenger and the driver side and it worked... then I change the light in the vanity mirror, driver side to led but it doesn't turn on.. i switch the led to reverse side.. nothing happen.. I put back the old bulbs still wont turn on... then I tried to open the the two lights.. now they are not working... even the dome lights..
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I have the 2012 elantra and since my last oil change at the dealer, when I lock the cars with the remote the horn and light don't activate like it use to. I read the manual and it says to hold down the lock and unlock buttons but still doesn't work.
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I installed the Low beam HID kit from xenon supply today and I bought an LED Fog Lights to match the color of the headlight. I tested it after I finished putting it all back and It works fine. I waited for the sun goes down and test it on the road. while driving my fog lights just stops running and there is no green light on my dashboard.
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I just installed the Hyundai factory Remote Engine Start in my 2011 Elantra GLS and have a problem that the hazard lights come on and stay on when unlocking/unarming the car. To repeat, this is the genuine Hyundai Accessory Remote Start/Security kit (3X056 ADU00), not a third party offering. Everything that the kit is supposed to do, WORKS as specified, including remote start. The only problem is that when I use the key fob to unlock/disarm the system, the emergency flashers/hazard lights come on and stay on until I turn them off from the inside or until I toggle lock/unlock for the key fob a few times.
I've been through the wiring a dozen times, and am absolutely certain that the kit is wired correctly -- again all features work. Now, I find it interesting that NONE of the wiring of the kit (based on the schematic) comes close to touching a circuit that is identified as hazard/flashers! I even temporarily disconnected all four leads from the kit that go to the front headlamp circuits and rear tail lamp circuits -- and the hazards STILL CAME on when unlocking. This is telling me that there is an indirect/unintended "connection" between the kit and the triggering of the hazard circuit.
The kit is clearly the correct one for the car, and the car has the right equipment for the kit (i.e. No Smart Key, has auto transmission, power windows, power locks, etc). Why the hazard lamps come on when I click the keyfob to unlock the car?
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My limited has lost it's low beams when the switch is set to head lights but not when set to marker lamps. They still shine at a reduced output then. I've read this may be an issue with the BCM?
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It gets really cold in the winter (-30 C is common). Now I'm wondering how does the A/C button on the remote work? Is it literally just for remote air conditioning or can it also be used in freezing temperatures to remotely start the car to warm it up?
Normally I don't warm up my car but when it's been sitting outside in -20C or colder I sometimes let it run a few minutes just to clear the windshield before I drive.
If the A/C button doesn't work the heat also in the freezing cold, will this kit for the regular Prius work?
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We have a 2012 Ford Flex with remote start. Remote start doesn't seem to work when car is on an incline. Backed car into driveway and started but won't when pulled in. Is this common Remote start is separate key fob.Remote start is factory.
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I had an original Toyota remote starter installed when I bought my 2010 Prius. The dealer informed me at that time that the range was about 90 feet and that I be better with a jobber remote starter... I did stick with the Toyota because I didnt want another remote transmitter key with my keyfob and that the range was not a problem for me...
And winter came and the remote starter was working fine except that on one pretty cold winter morning it did not...and the next morning. It took a while for the dealer to find the problem...
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Second owner of my 2010 IV and I see where there's a few dried up drips on the inside of my radio display (stock non-GPS unit) and while it's not the kind of thing that keeps me up at night, if others have had this too and found an easy way to address it, I will too.
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We just bought our 2012 Chevy Cruze in April (it was a rental return) and in the last couple of weeks the (computerized) radio has started to go berzerk. It doesn't do it all the time -- which is why the dealership hasn't caught it yet -- but when it does, it keeps rebooting itself in the manner of this other 2012. Will the car suddenly die on us without warning? We're going to make the dealership take it back if they can't find the cause and fix it.
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I have my 2011 and all of a sudden my car stopped being able to sense it in the car or outside the car. The lock and unlock function still works which is puzzling, and when I tapped it to the power button in effort to start the car, the car still does not start and says it can't locate the key. I dropped a 85lb weight on it the other week at the gym but it appears there wasn't any damage when I took the key apart, and it was working fine up till now. The spare works fine, but I'm just hoping I don't have to buy another key...
Also noticed this is the same part number, and since i only need the new circuit board I'm assuming, I wonder if its the same size as the prius one...
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I found out last night that all 3 of my brake lights are out. However, my tail lights work, and my turn-signals work. So obviously its not a big wiring deal. I was looking for the brake switch but i don't know where its at because i looked underneath. What fuse is the brake lights cause my manual doesn't have it listed. I drive a 04 Elantra GLS.
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Sunroof left and windows were left open and we received about 3 inches of rain before I closed them. Now they don't work, the door locks don't work and the car won't start.
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3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2014 Prius model 4 and had a remote starter installed at the dealer. So far, the car has been at the dealer 3 times and they cannot figure out why the remote start will not work. When you press the lock button twice then the 3rd time for 3 seconds, the lights flash and you can watch as the dash lights begin to come on, then everything shuts down. The dealer contacted Toyota because this is all a warranty issue and was instructed to reprogram the computer which they did. After doing so they received an error code that a door, hood or trunk was open, but none were. They checked all the door, hood and trunk latch electronics and all were fine. Personally, I feel I must have received a faulty remote starter, but Toyota so far seems unwilling to replace it.
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When you press your remote, trunk will stay closed and won't open. Must use the lever under the seat for opening it. What can cause this issue.
Battery is new. Also there is some another issue, didn't look it yet, one of the plate lamp is not working while trunk is closed. When you lift up your trunk it will begin work, when you close - no work.I assume there is some wire connection problem, but how it might affect the opening a trunk?
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My wife owns a 2013 Camry XLE Hybrid. The map lights do not come on when the remote is activated or either front door is opened or closed. the owners manual says it is an option that can be programmed at the dealership. when I took her car in for its first 5,000 mile check up the service advisor said both he and the technician tried to do it and looked it up to see where it would show them how but they were not successful. Is this something the dealer can program in?
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I seem to have a bit of condensation inside my headlights. Is this normal?... On a car that's not even a year old? Seems to only happen on days that are raining, very humid, or when I give it a wash. Basically anytime there's contact with water.
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I was rear-ended this morning, and can't get into my trunk. Is there anyway to lower the seats from the inside of the cab to get my stuff out? It will probably be at least a week before it gets repaired, and I don't want to have to tie down my trunk.
I am impressed on how my vehicle handled the accident. It doesn't look bad, and I didn't feel much, but it tore up the whole rear end. At least $5k damage.
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I went out of town for 10 days and left my car parked. When I returned the inside of the call smells like a dead animal. I keep my car clean and do not eat in it. My husband checked all over including underneath to see if there was something dead. He found nothing. Yesterday, I had to turn on the defrost setting for the windows due to condensation in the car. This is not normal for my climate right now. We are 70 degrees with little to no humidity. The cabin filter was changed 6 months ago.
We have tried airing it out for a 2 days, spraying Ozium and other sprays, but the smell persists.
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2 days ago, with no warning, my 2011 Elantra Touring wouldn't start. Just wouldn't turn over.
I noticed a dash light with the symbol of a key inside a car was on. It would stay lit up at all times except during the start up attempt - even with the key out of the ignition.
I looked it up and have been reading about the immobilizer. Apparently this might be my trouble. Problem is, how to troubleshoot.
Here is what I have tried so far (turn-key ignition)
- verified car was in park.
- tried to start in neutral.
- jump started the battery, even though it didn't seem to be a battery issue.
- left key turned to start position for 15 minutes, then tried to start it. This was recommended in a thread on a different forum for a similar sounding problem.
Will try to post a video of the dash during a start attempt in a few minutes.
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