Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2012 - Pulling And Tugging While Uphill Driving
Dec 31, 2011
I have a couple of questions. Been driving for about 4 weeks now. Just took it to Hagerstown, MD yesterday and noticed something odd when driving up the mountains. (We have lots of mountains to travel up and down out here in western MD) When I would get to 3k RPMs, I would notice something strange, kind of like a pulling or tugging. (Think of it like a circle with a line somewhere no hit. Every time you hit that line, there is a little vibration or tug, kind of like if you have a rock or something stuck in your tire and you hear a noise every time you hit that spot on the tire against the road).
However, it only occurred when going up the mountain at 3k RPMs. If it kicked up to 4k RPMs, it didn't happen. It I was below 3k RPMs, it didn't happen. Is it normal? Is it related to the Active ECO system? I didn't try running it uphill without cruise control on. Could it be because I had cruise control in use? Just wondering if this is normal. I was reading the manual and it did state that you would notice a difference when Active Eco was engaged when going uphill as the engine would be a little less powerful or less quick to gain power. Also, what is "sport mode"? The plus and minus signs to the right of D on the gear shift?
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For a few years now my 2012 elantra has been pulling to the right. I got new tires and a alignment yesterday and it hasn't seemed to fix the problem. Now I think it must be a bigger problem than just the alignment. What the problem could be? I will probably take it into the dealer and see what they say.
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We have a 2012 Elantra Elite 6spd manual and ever since we bought it (from new) there has been an irritating noise like a graunch or short vibration that happens (sometimes but not all the time) when we are pulling away from a stand still e.g. traffic lights, parking spaces, etc in first gear.
It does not always do it and seems to be only in first and sometimes reverse but rarely. We have flagged this numerous times with the dealer (all recorded in their records), although until now they claimed they could not repeat the problem and given it is intermittent I will give them the benefit of the doubt but only just.
Finally I managed to get them to take it in today and have a look at the problem after taking a technician for a drive to demonstrate the issue and show how it does not matter if the car is under load or not it. I think it sounds like something rubbing/vibrating and coming from the cabin and not the engine bay.
The dealer has concluded that none of the exhaust TCB's are the cause and they have concluded that it is a "glazed" clutch plate or flywheel (without actually looking at it). The upshot is that the dealer says Hyundai say it is not covered by the warranty and if I want them to strip it down and have a look I have to pay for it. I have never heard of this phenomenon and in all the manual cars I have had if something goes wrong in the clutch or bearing area the noise is usually constant.
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After my steering wheel replaced I've noticed that new wheel is not centered. I was way too much to the right when driving straight, so I went back to dealer and ask him to fix it. He said that he fixed it and even recalibrated steering wheel (or something) and should be OK. So here is my question. The wheel is now a bit to much to the left (see picture). Do you think it is acceptable (within the specs) and it cannot be adjusted better? Should I go back and complain or I am just to much paranoiac.
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My husband's 1999 (manual transmission) Honda Accord has suddenly gone from a very reliable vehicle to a very big problem. Last week, he experienced problems while driving in fourth gear going up hill at around 45 MPH. The car essentially stopped pulling him up the hill, so he went into third, and got nothing, then second, and got nothing. It took a few tries to re-start the car, which then started idling at lower-than-usual RPM's.
He revved the engine a bit, gave it a test drive, and was able to get to his destination without any more problems. The next day, at about the same place in the road, he experienced something similar, but this time, he revved the engine to increase the RPM's while in fourth gear and was able to make it through without any stalls. This morning, however, his car did not start. The engine will turn over, but it is not engaging. It does not seem to be an electrical problem, since the engine is turning over. No warning or "check engine" lights have come on at this point.
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I have a rattle in the dash up in the middle of the dash kind of in between the two sides of the car and between the window and front so basically right in the middle of the dash, if I slap it with my hand I can make the same sort of rattle so something is loose, bad thing is I dropped by dealership and it didn't do it when I was in the car driving with the service guy but I slapped on the dash and you could here a something loose sound rattle same kind I hear when driving. He said that is normal for things to make noise in there when you tap the dash. About a week ago I had the dirty sock smell coming from my vents so I took out the Cabin Filter and sprayed Lysol in the intake the put a new filter in. This is about the same time the rattle started. I wonder if the Lysol might have made something come loose in the vent system.
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My 2012 SONTA GLS has about 200 miles and pulling RIGHT and having very difficult time dealing with Hyundai...
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 130000+ mi on it. The current engine has 96000+ mi; the original was replaced because the previous owner allowed it to overheat, blew a gasket, and apparently warped the engine itself.
I have owned this car for about 6 weeks now. The car was driven roughly 160 mi from where it was purchased to my residence; no trouble on that trip. However, within the first few weeks of owning it, the car started making a squealing noise when I turned the steering wheel. I took the car to a mechanic and had the belts adjusted. This eliminated the squealing, but I was also told that the CV boot needed to be replaced (they asked if I had been hearing a clicking noise when turning, which I had but had thought nothing of), so I also had that repair done. Problem solved. Car seemed to be running fine.
Okay, on to the current problem. Something else I had started to notice, before I had the belts adjusted, was that it seemed to hesitate a little when going up hills, and sometimes when accelerating. It was a small thing, and I attributed it to my driving style (which probably isn't the best) and the fact that my area is very hilly and the car might be having a harder time with that. Well, this problem has gotten worse; I can definitely feel the car jerking, especially when accelerating (very noticeable when going uphill). The problem also seems to be worse at lower speeds, but I'm not entirely sure that I've nailed that down.
One thing I noticed is that it seemed to become much more noticeable after the last time I gassed up the car. It seems like it's getting worse as the fuel is used up, but that's probably just a consequence of using up fuel as I drive and I'm just looking for connections where there aren't any.
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I just purchased my Elantra MD for just 2 years. Yesterday I went uphill (not steep) then decide to change from auto to manual, then I move the stick, it shows I am currently in gear 5 so i downshift to 4. After a few second the was a 'jerking' with 'thump' sound from the bay. My rpm came down slowly, i pushed the pedal but the rpm wont go up. it just glide. Shut down and up the engine changed nothing. When i try put reverse gear, it reversed fast as if i pushed the pedal, but i am not.
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Went to pull on the hood latch lever and nothing happened. It almost appears that the cable/ball has either popped or broken off the latch. While pulling on the lever you can hear a sliding noise at the latch.
I removed the bottom panel under the bumper but no support there as the latch is covered and not accessed from that location. There is a slight gap from the front under the hood and above the logo but how to get around to this.
How to at least open the hood from the outside. Remember, the cable won't release.
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My truck makes a horrific screeching sound when it's loaded or pulling a small trailer (2000lbs) up hill. I discovered last night while I had it in drive, if I hold the brake and give it a little gas (like if you were trying to do a burnout) it will make the screeching noise as well. It won't break the rear wheels loose either, which makes me think it's down on power or the transmission is slipping.
My first thought is the transmission, but some searches on this forum describe U-joints or the carrier bearing as possibilities. The previous owner told me he replaced a U-joint just before I bought it, so I'm not ruling that out at all....
My truck specs: 1995 351 E40D 4x4 (manual transfer case & hubs), extended cab eddie bauer. 158k.
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I have posted a pic of a smoke issue I am having while pulling.
I just pulled a 10,000 lb trailer up a few 7% grades at 8-10,000 ft and the best I could do was 40-45 mph at 6mpg. Every hill would set a P1211 and when the truck downshifted to 3rd the smoke would go away for the most part.
Truck is 100% stock and pulls the same as my F350 with 3.73 gears but smokes a lot more.
The smoke is kind of annoying and performance seems sluggish especially given the 4.88 gearing. Where to start?
Has new ipr, hpop, icp, fuel filter, air filter, fresh 5w40 mobil 1.
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For the last two years my old Sunfire (I've been its only owner) has been tugging while speeding up (happens at different speeds) and I have taken it to all sorts of mechanics and none have been able to solve the issue. The car had a faulty injector which was changed with a new original part, the transmission diagnosis have all come out negative, the engine is in great condition according to all the mechanics and the electromechanics I've been to have found no problems with the car whatsoever.
The car has around 130,000 miles and runs great, it just has these tugging episodes while accelerating and I have ran out of things to check in the darn car. The car is always up-to-date with maintenance and it's used for short trips the majority of time. What could be wrong with this car?
Another detail is that when the car is full (fuel) the tugging stops, but none of the mechanics have been able to find the relation between the fuel and the tugging.
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Just got rid of my 2011 Audi a4 for 2012 Elantra Limited with tech pkg. I like the car a lot but man is it noisy at highway speeds. Really makes phone calls and radio listening difficult.
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I just got into my 2012 GLS Elantra and tried firing it up, and the engine will turn over, but wont start. Power windows, radio, lights, everything works. Earlier in the day, I moved the car from the garage to the driveway and turned it off about 30 seconds after I turned it on..
I've read things from checking the sparks to the fuel pump..is it possible that it could be flooded? I am leaving it alone right now and I plan to try to fire it up in an hour or so with the accelerator fully pressed down in case this is the case, hopefully that does the trick..
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I have a 2012 Elantra with about 90,000 km. Everything was running smoothly until this week I ran into quite a few problems.
First of all, my car shakes when in park or neutral. I think this may have something to do with the idle being out of sync, but honestly I don't know enough to judge it.
Second of all, my engine was replaced twice by the manufacturer about 7-8 months ago. Now, all of a sudden, it is shaking like crazy! I'll open up the hood while the car is on and the engine looks like it wants to jump out at me.
Third of all, my window just started making a grinding noise when I bring it up and down. There's a section of the window, in the middle, where it doesn't make a noise, but for the rest of it it sounds like everything is scratching. I presume that this may be the power window and that I'll have to get this replaced.
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Pulled into a parking space as usual the other night and when backing out, I badly ripped up the "radiator shield" (if its called that) plastic cover underneath my car. I ended up removing it all together after removing a few remaining clips holding it in place and drove home without problem. It looks like it protects the radiator.... What this part is called?
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I had the opportunity to test my mother's 2012 non-GT Elantra automatic. In auto mode when I floored it, it shifted from 1st to 2nd at around 6,000RPM so it shifted too soon. I didn't try it in manual mode.
I have a feeling in manual mode, if I have it set to '1' and I continue to floor it , it won't reduce power at some point (say 6100RPM), but rather will automatically shift up for me?
What are the RPM points that it'll shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd when flooring it both in manual and auto mode? I hope there is a way for it to not shift until it reaches it's peak HP at 6,500RPM, if not the 6,750RPM redline at each gear change.
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I have a 2012 Elantra with about 47,000 miles, and I've noticed that the oil pressure light comes on for about 2-3 seconds at startup. It never comes on while idling or driving, and the car runs like a champ. I checked the oil level, and it's good, and I get regular oil changes.
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I folded down my rear seats on my 2012 Elantra and now I am unable to get them to lock back in normal position. It doesn't matter how hard I slam the seats I cannot get them to lock. This is the second time I folded down the seats and I am not sure if they locked from the last time I folded them down. Maybe it is the cold weather in NY that has an affect on the lock.
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2012 elantra ltd.
Today noticed a knockng sound louder than the usual engine knock. It only occurs when we put car in reverse. Checked it with the brakes applied so as to eliminate it coming from any source due to the car moving ie axle/drive connections etc. Putting it in D with brakes on, not moving and it goes away. Put it back in reverse and it recurs.
Tried it even after the engine had warmed to temp guage showing half way. Let car sit for a bit (so engine was still warm) and it repeated. Drove for a few minutes and it would not occur. Shut car off for 1 hour, on restart the engine temp was showing it was still warm and the knock would recur in R.
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