Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2012 GLS - Temp Gauge Fluctuating And Overflow Was Really Low
Jun 4, 2016
My son recently bought a 2012 GLS. The temp gauge was fluctuating and I noticed the overflow was really low. I added coolant and warmed the car up with no change. After it cooled a little, I cracked the radiator cap and heard bubbling air. Upon complete removal of the cap, I saw no fluid, however, the cap is above the radiator where the hoses connect. I added coolant directly to this opening until I could see it. Closed everything up and warmed up the car. Temp gauge is now steady 1 mark below half way. The question is, did I add enough coolant? and should I see coolant inside the radiator cap when the vehicle is cold?
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I have a 2012 Crew cab Silverado 5.3 V8 with the towing package. When I pull my travel trailer (approx. 5000 lbs), the water temp stays 1/2 guage and the tranny temp is 170-190, however, on steep hills the water temp guage goes 2/3 to 3/4 guage for a short time and the tranny temp reaches 200-210 degrees. Is the elevated water and tranny temps okay or should I try to reduce them back to the normal range. What is the max temp I should keep the tranny at?
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So I recently bought a 2010 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 31,000 miles (5.3l engine). After having the truck a few days, I have noticed a couple of problems ...
1) I have noticed there is a rough idle in the passenger seat while the truck is in drive. Once the truck is started and driven about 5 minutes, once you come to a complete stop in drive (ex. stop light) a rough idle over takes the truck. You can feel this idle a lot more in the passenger seat than in the driver seat. The RPM gauge also fluctuates during the rattle.
2) At night my the headlights flicker randomly, on and off very quickly.
3) In the morning when I start the truck and drive it a bit, I hear a rattle which sounds like it is coming from the front right of the truck. Bumps do not trigger this rattle, which usually only lasts a couple seconds. I usually hear the rattle between 1,000 and 1,200 rpms.
I have taken the truck into the shop 2 times to get these items fixed, and they said they cannot feel a rough idle.
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I replaced my battery. Once I connected my new battery, my fuel and temperature gauge started working strangely. They would either be high, then go low, then go back high. My interior lights, clock, and radio stopped working. Could it be a relay? I checked all the fuses with a test light and they all looked good.
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I have a 2005 Elantra GLS with a couple thousand miles over 100K. There is what appears to be an overheating issue with my car. When I'm driving it in city driving usually less than 45 MPH, the heater blows cold air. However, on the highway (greater than 50 MPH) it blows hot air and the temp needle stays in the normal range (just below the halfway point between hot and cold and more towards the cold). However, when I slow down and come to city speeds, the temp needle starts to rise and the heater blows cold air.
The needle went to the red zone this morning but as soon as it got to the red zone, it slowly came back down to the normal point (within 2-3 seconds). And @ the same time, the heater started blowing warm/hot air like it would be functioning normally. When the needle got the red zone, my car didn't stop or I didn't see smoke coming from the hood or anything like. It was almost like something (maybe thermostat) tripped and allowed the engine to cool.
After doing some research on this, the potential issues point to thermostat, coolant level, radiator crack. I haven't checked how the coolant level is doing but I will check that this weekend.
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Fluctuating temperature gauge? In the past few weeks I have noticed that my temp gauge goes over the normal temp line but the car never actually overheats. This doesn't happen all the time and only every once in a while. Today however, the gauge went very high and I immediately put the heat on high and it slowly dropped to normal again.
I had a water pump replaced several years ago and last year had the thermostat replaced as well. The only thing I have had done recently was an oil change at one of those convenience stations. During the check-point, I was asked if I wanted the filter changed that filters the air coming into the car. I said no, but now wondering if they actually disconnected something when checking for this. The reason I'm bringing this up is because sometimes I don't get hot air when the heat is on or cold air when the a/c is on.
After reading online more about this, I read that a faulty Temperature Sensor can give a false reading. Just added some water to the radiator but not much...so no leaks that I can see.
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I have 2012 Prius C, I want to monitor my transmission fluid temp with my scan gauge II. I watch the MG1 and MG2 temps, which can get very high, like 215 F. I hope this isn't the trans fluid temp as well.
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So today I was driving to work and it was pretty cold out. It was about -22/-30 C with the wind. The drive is about 20 minutes in traffic. I to through drivethru and as I am leaving I notice that the temp dropped from about 90 to around 75/80. I then drive accross the street to work and the temp goes back up to 90. So I decided to sit there and let the car idle for a few minutes. Then the temp dropped again by about 10.
So I called the dealer and stopped by. All they did is take it for a test drive and do a scan to tell me everything is fine. By then the temp had warmed up outside and the issue was no longer present.
Having issues with fluctuating temp once your car reaches 90?
I know with my MK4 Golf 1.8T when I used to be in stop and go traffic the gauge would go down. So I replaced my thermostat and all was fine after that.
Do a modern car can a scan detect temp going below 90? Or could be a sticky thermostat?
It's a 2015 Golf 1.8 TSI
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My 2005 Hyundai Elantra GLS has had 0 problems. It has about 132K on it, but it's still awesome.
I was stuck in some nasty traffic the other day in 95 degree NC weather, and was idling for about 15 minutes with the AC on. Out of nowhere, it felt like my AC got warm and I saw my coolant temp gauge spike from just under midway to 3/4 of the way. Unsettling.
As soon as I got on the gas and drove for about 5-10 seconds, it dropped precipitously back to normal. I was able to recreate this behavior once I got home. Normal driving results in normal temperature. Both fans appear to running.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impala with the 3.4L engine. The car has 180K+ miles on the original engine. The coolant temperature started fluctuating recently. Going from 200 degrees up to 240 sometimes 260 degrees.
I recently had the check engine light on with the P0420 code which indicates a bad catalytic converter, I had that replaced and I was hoping that maybe the lack of exhaust flow through the converter was causing the overheating. It is still fluctuating however after the converter replacement.
The coolant temperature seems to go up when the car is idling but when moving it starts to go back down to normal. I had the cooling fan assembly replaced last year after one of the fans failed. These are less than a year old and are both operating as expected.
A little history on the engine. It originally had that crappy DexCool in it that then ate away at the cheap plastic head gasket causing oil to leak into the coolant system. This caused the coolant to turn into 'mud' within the radiator and eventually the head gasket failed completely and I had to have that replaced along with putting in ethylene glycol to replace the DexCool. Now when the coolant system was flushed, I am not completely sure that all that 'mud' was flushed out of the radiator. So the radiator may not be operating at full capacity. In fact, driving through the mountains this summer going up inclines, the car would tend to start overheating.
So thoughts on what might be the issue, radiator, thermostat, sensor, water pump, something else? I'm pretty sure it's not the sensor because sensors don't fail in this manner (they fail either high or low). I'm leaning toward the radiator because once I get some air flow across it, the coolant temp gets back to normal.
Also, the A/C is sometimes working great and blowing really cold and other times it is just slightly cold.
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My gas gauge is moving up and down like when I start up the car the gas indicator will go down to the middle when my gas is full. My car is a 2003 toyota camry.
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When I give my car some gas my boost gauge fluctuates a lot and doesn't hold, I have an OEM piston style dv revision d I believe, and I have a catch can and also a blow off valve, and I'm stage 2. I was thinking of getting an awe diverter valve?
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My brother has a '92 K1500 5.7L in which he had a leaking water pump. He replaced it with an Autozone unit. After replacing the pump, he now states he is experiencing fluctuating temperatures on the gauge. He has little heat at the heater, even after letting the truck idle and after driving it. This was not a problem prior to replacing the water pump. He has put approximately 200 miles on since the replacement and it has been about 2 weeks since he replaced it. He believes he has all the air out of the system, as he has checked the overflow container and radiator several times and the coolant level has not gone down.
This now "suddenly" appears after the pump replacement, we are thinking it is not the temperature gauge sensor or bad thermostat. We are thinking possibly still air in the system or water pump cavitation.
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Have a problem with the coolant gauge on their Passat? The temperature gauge on my 02 Passat sometimes reads normal (190) when I am driving and then all of a sudden it will drop back to 90. My first guess was the sending unit, but the dealer says it might be the gauge cluster too. I would think that if it was the gauge cluster the other gauges would act up too. ?
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I recently had some issues getting my 2000 Blazer LS started. It would act as though the battery was dying. But if I let it set a few moments, it would start right up. Then a couple days later, I needed a jump start to get it going. I took it to my local Auto Zone to have the alternator tested because the battery was only 3 years old. (It was a 5 year battery.)
They determined that it was the battery. So I went to Walmart and bought a 700 CCA battery. And today the gauge is fluctuating again.... Considering it is cold and snowing here, heat, wipers, and rear defrost tend to be essential. But if I try to run all of them, the gauge dumps. And causes everything to bog down. I do not have any aftermarket electronics installed in the truck. And until last Thursday, this was not an issue.
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So today we were driving back home and the oil gauge start fluctuating rapidly. However it would only fluctuate when the engine speed was slow, like when you are at an idle in gear. Once I gave it some throttle the needle came back to normal. Also while making a turn the needle stayed steady as well, which made me think that it isn't a low level situation,(plus I did verify the oil level once I came to a stop).
I keep reading about oil pressure sending units going bad. I just so happen to an extra aftermarket sending unit and gauge from summit racing laying around, so I'll hook that up tomorrow and see about what the pressure actually is at idle. I hope that it is just a small problem. Whats the pressure supposed to be for the 4.0 OHV at idle anyway.
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The A/C on my hand-me-down '99 Lumina has never been outstanding, but has kept the Florida summers at bay. I recently turned it on again (I only ran it once or twice this winter) and the system was empty. I refilled it and it was empty again in 72 hours. I was hoping the seals had just dried out, but it continues to empty after several other attempts to recharge it, including adding 134a with lubricants. I added 134a with UV dye in it and the only leak I found is around the compressor clutch. I accept that the compressor probably has to go, but am puzzled by the manifold gauge readings taken when I added the last can. I just don't want to put in a new compressor and find out that wasn't the only problem.
With the system off, both High and Low sides read just under 70. (Normal Low and High side operating pressures for this car are listed at 42 and 340 respectively.) When the system is turned on, Low drops to 30 and High goes to 80 and there is no air cooling. After 30 seconds the High side slowly climbs to 200 and the Low side slowly drops to 26, with almost no air cooling. When the High side hits 200, it drops back down to 80 and the Low side goes back to 30. After 30-45 seconds it does it again and keeps repeating. The compressor clutch stays engaged the whole time. I looked in the Haynes A/C Techbook as well as online and can't find anything that resembles this description. If this is just symptomatic of a bad compressor, or is there more evil afoot? Also, while I have the system open are there any parts I should replace at the same time given the age of the system?
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Is it normal that the temperature gauge reach half the temp scale all the time ? Even though I live in a tropical island were outside temp is mostly above the 85 mark I find it a bit weird for the temp to reach that point.
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I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
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I have an 08 Hyundai Santa Fe. Check engine light comes on, fuel gauge goes from empty to full, to half, to 1/4, just all over the place. Even ran out of gas a few times on the side of the road not knowing how much fuel I have.
What exactly causes this problem? I've heard "fuel sender" I've heard "fuel pressure sensor" etc. All are different parts. Need to get this repaired asap.
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The last time I got gas the shut off switch on the gas hose did not shut off. I was standing there and I shut it off immediately. There was some overflow. I have gone 170 miles since this fill up and the fuel gauge has not budged from totally full. I bought the car new and normally it would be down about half a tank by now.
I disconnected the 12 v battery. After reconnecting it the fuel gauge still reads totally full. I know about the problems with the gen 2 fuel tank- bladder, fuel pump and other components inside the tank.
I wouldn't be excited about getting a new fuel tank with only 43k miles.
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