Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2012 GLS Engine Will Turn Over But Won't Start
Oct 17, 2013
I just got into my 2012 GLS Elantra and tried firing it up, and the engine will turn over, but wont start. Power windows, radio, lights, everything works. Earlier in the day, I moved the car from the garage to the driveway and turned it off about 30 seconds after I turned it on..
I've read things from checking the sparks to the fuel pump..is it possible that it could be flooded? I am leaving it alone right now and I plan to try to fire it up in an hour or so with the accelerator fully pressed down in case this is the case, hopefully that does the trick..
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I have a Hyundai Elantra Limited 2012. A few months ago the Short Block was replaced because the engine was noisy. Now it started to do that noise, if I remember it's a little bit similar : Youtube video: [URL] .... Or search youtube for: Hyundai elantra 2012 engine rattle noise
It rattled very loud for 1 or 2 seconds on a cold start the other day too. Noise appears to be coming from the engine. It does it pretty much all the time, at idling, when I accelerate it accelerates too and when I slow down it kinds of do too slowly. Need another new short block or is it something else like the timing chain or a bearing?
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About 95% of the time our 2012 Elantra runs great. But then 5% of the time, it hits us with this intermittent starting problem. It will crank but just won't turn over. It really feels like it's just not getting any fuel. This has happened intermittently for the past 2 years. Every time we take it in, the dealer can't replicate the problem. It starts right up for them. The car will behave well for a while but then inevitably, it acts up again - usually at 6:30am when we need to get to the hospital for work.
Here's a video of it in the act : [URL] .....
It's not the shift interlock - it wouldn't even crank if it were that.
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At many, but not all, gas stations, as I try to fill up the gass flow cuts off very shortly after I start. No matter how I position the nozzle it cuts off. if I squeeze the trigger just barely so the gas flows slowly, then it will remain on, but takes forever to fill up.
Again, doesn't happen at every gas station, but a lot. Based on that, I'd assume it's not a malfunction in a valve, filler neck, evap canister, etc.
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So I'm not new to fixing this car but I'm now stuck. It is not the inhibitor switch, I had that replaced, and the car cranks so it is not the problem. In addition, the "P" shows up on the dash. Since the car cranks, its not the battery, it is showing 12.25V.
I am afraid it is the fuel pump. Looking for the specs for the fuel pump such as resistances/ voltages? Sometimes when it cranks, I believe it ignites for half a second and then dies. Then it cranks with no ignition, then it sounds like its dying, then it ignites every once in a while.
Similar to this: [URL] ..... but without the nastiness at 0:08 where they turn off the car mid crank.
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra and I have had it for almost a year. Its been snowing here in Tennessee. I went to start my car and wont start. All the lights come on, radio, etc.I have tried jumping the car and wont work, even tried changing out battery. Not sure if theres any known issues going on or if it has to do with it being cold.
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I pressed the start button, foot on the brake, (like normal), and the engine revs but won't turn over. Here is the YouTube link of what is happening...
2012 Hyundai Elantra Limited Won't Start - YouTube
Calling the dealership in the morning.
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2012 elantra ltd.
Today noticed a knockng sound louder than the usual engine knock. It only occurs when we put car in reverse. Checked it with the brakes applied so as to eliminate it coming from any source due to the car moving ie axle/drive connections etc. Putting it in D with brakes on, not moving and it goes away. Put it back in reverse and it recurs.
Tried it even after the engine had warmed to temp guage showing half way. Let car sit for a bit (so engine was still warm) and it repeated. Drove for a few minutes and it would not occur. Shut car off for 1 hour, on restart the engine temp was showing it was still warm and the knock would recur in R.
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Recently purchased a 2016 Elantra. All was working well with car. Now, all of a sudden, when I turn on car via remote start the heater isnt coming on like it did before. It wont turn on until I put key in ignition. I had to get a new remote recently and seems like thats when it started to happen, but I cant be sure. Is it possible the remote was programmed incorrectly? Or is it more likely a fuse or relay issue?
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I currently installed my HID's and I saw that I needed to have a relay for them so I made sure I bought that too. They work but when I turn on the car sometimes the left headlight won't turn on I have to turn them off and on in order for it to turn on. The relay is connected straight to the battery so I don't see why it won't turn on. I heard of some diy capacitors but didn't see the link on those old threads.
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Our 12 elantra with 26,500 miles went up in a big cloud of smoke on monday. Driving along about 45 miles an hour and lost power and huge cloud of smoke. Engine still running but any attempt to accelerate and it falls on it's face. Smoke out the taipipe all the time. After about 12 dealer excuses they say it needs a new short block. The wife drives it all the time so it doesn't get babied and it doesn't get the snot run out of it either.
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This just started last night. 2012 e ltd goes "pfft" 3 times after shut off. Sounds like 3 small back fires about 2 seconds after I shut off engine. Very soft sound. The third one is not quite as loud as the first two, and if the door isn't open, you can't hear it. Seems to be coming from under the engine cover, near the throttle body.
Let me add the mileage has dropped from about 26.9 in town to 23.6.
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So I have a 2012 Elantra Limited. From what I understand the power steering is no hydraulics and is only electric assist. So I have a strange problem. I can remember in previous cars when a power steering pump was going bad it made a whining type noise that changed with engine speed. My Elantra is making the same type of noise. I'm trying to track this down. My car doesn't have any other symptoms aside from the noise. It's hard to really tell but it does appear to be coming from the belt side of the motor (passenger side).
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I want to know which method is the more appropriate and safer option to start the engine with a push button. There are two ways:
Method 1) You get in the car, press the brake, push the button to START
Method 2) You get in the car, push the button till all the lights come on, wait for a few seconds, press the brake, and push the button to START
Which one is more recommended? Does either option have any affect on the mechanism and life of the Push Button function?
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Here is the link : [URL] .....
Someone with a similar problem said it was a timing chain cover issue and someone else a cam shaft issue. It's a 2012 elantra limited 1.8L with 55000km the short block was replaced around 45000km.
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I have a 2011 elanta limited with the push to start. 3x now I will park and push to turn off car. & it turns engine off but navigation and such stay on. Ill try to start it up and try again, exact same thing. Then I give up and get out and it will beep because my keys aren't nearby and continue to stay on. It's lasted an hour tips so far until it will cooperate.I can't completely turn it off. More info, 3x in 4months. Not driven or done anything differently any of those times.
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2013 Elantra with 62k miles. I am dealing with a strange issue where I experience sudden engine shutoff and no-crank no-start situation when I attempt to restart. This typically happens during warmer weather (above 95F / 35C).
When the engine shuts off while i'm driving, the following symptoms occur:
-Temperature gauge (all bars) disappear
-Shift level selection disappears from dash
-stability control light is illuminated
During that state, I'm unable to restart the engine (even when the level is in park or neutral). Anytime the attempt to restart, the following symptoms occur:
-all of the above symptoms when engine shuts off
-TPMS light is flashing
-engine does not crank when attempting to restart.
-Unable to move shift lever from Park when key is in ON position, even when depressing the brake pedal (have to use shift lock release to get it out of park into neutral). Trying to start the car in neutral makes no difference.
The car stays in that strange state anywhere from 5 minutes to several hours. After that, I'm able to start the car and drive it for 10-60 minutes, until above issue repeats.
The issue is NOT any of the following:
-Battery
-Starter
I know that some users have reported a similar issue due to a bad inhibitor switch, but with that issue, only the gear selection disappears from the dash (while the temp gauge and other functions remain normal). Could it possibly be a bad ECU?
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS, with Push Start ignition.
Whenever I get out of my car for a few minutes, I keep the engine running, so what I do is, I keep the Smart Key inside the car, and remove the physical key trying to lock the doors from outside (I do this to keep the car cool from inside because the heat in my country is scorching!)...what I found recently is that as I do this, only the driver door gets locked, and all the other doors are still unlocked...I don't know if this is a fault or standard....
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For a few years now my 2012 elantra has been pulling to the right. I got new tires and a alignment yesterday and it hasn't seemed to fix the problem. Now I think it must be a bigger problem than just the alignment. What the problem could be? I will probably take it into the dealer and see what they say.
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I have a rattle in the dash up in the middle of the dash kind of in between the two sides of the car and between the window and front so basically right in the middle of the dash, if I slap it with my hand I can make the same sort of rattle so something is loose, bad thing is I dropped by dealership and it didn't do it when I was in the car driving with the service guy but I slapped on the dash and you could here a something loose sound rattle same kind I hear when driving. He said that is normal for things to make noise in there when you tap the dash. About a week ago I had the dirty sock smell coming from my vents so I took out the Cabin Filter and sprayed Lysol in the intake the put a new filter in. This is about the same time the rattle started. I wonder if the Lysol might have made something come loose in the vent system.
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Just got rid of my 2011 Audi a4 for 2012 Elantra Limited with tech pkg. I like the car a lot but man is it noisy at highway speeds. Really makes phone calls and radio listening difficult.
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