I have a 2012 elantra manual transmission. I noticed the eco mode but never found out if it really does anything. when I shift from 1st to 2nd at higher RPMs its rough. At other gears its ok but I feel like the gas pedal is weak sometimes. With a manual does the eco mode make that more difficult?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2012 elantra limited about 9 month's old with about 14,000 miles on it.
About a week ago I began noticing a burning smell. I first chalked it up to being 1,000 over the 3k mark for an oil change. However I then started to pay attention when I parked if there was any sign of fluids leaking. At first I didn't notice any or seemed like one or two drips. Well tonight I noticed a larger puddle that was def not water.
The other symptom is that it's been shifting up at higher RPMs. Tonight when I got on the freeway I was trying to speed up to 65 but the rpm gauge had me at over 4,000 rpms with normal acceleration...I was not gunning it. I also could not get the car to go past 60 at first, all the while the rpm increasing still, until I let off the gas then hit it again and seemed to trip it to shift and was able to get to 65.
When not using the manual mode of the DSG...What are the differences between driving in D and S? It seems like the car shifts more aggressively in S mode, allowing higher rpms before it shifts. Are their any other pros/cons to the different driving modes when in automatic, And what do most drivers prefer?
View 15 RepliesI bought a new 2014 Elantra last Monday. Around 100 miles (Wednesday) I noticed it was making a ticking noise when accelerating. The sound gets louder at higher RPMs and goes away when I get off of the accelerator. You can't hear it over the radio but it's embarrassing when my passengers do. It almost sounds like a puff of air escaping or something, similar to a go-kart engine lol.
Anyways, I took it to the dealer Thursday and they drove it and said the noise was normal during the engines break-in period and if it persists after 15k to bring it back and they would see if there was something that needed tightening.
So anytime I accelerate out of the 'Eco' mode, the car is very rough and loud! 2011 Elantra GLS. Stock. Haven't had it to the dealer yet to discuss. 24,000km. Other than that it's fine.
View 3 RepliesOver the past couple of days, my wife and I have been noticing that our B6 (2.0 Auto/Tip) is shifting at around 4000 rpms. I'll probably be taking it in to have the dealer look into it but wanted to see if the community has experienced anything similar to the issue at hand.
It shifts (Appox):
1st into 2nd - 3200 rpms
2nd into 3rd - 3800 - 4200 rpms
3rd into 4th - 3500 rpms
4th into 5th - 3000 rpms
5th into 6th - 2500 rpms
Notes:
* the appox amounts above are at regular driving acceleration.
* while in Drive - "D" mode
* used to shift into all gears between 2500-2900 rpms
* doesn't shift nearly as smooth as in the past
Is it OK to slip into "Sport" from "Drive" while Driving? How about slipping into Tiptronic while using "D" or "S"?
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2011 Elantra Limited, auto, 15,700 miles. Past couple of days I have experienced very rough shifts in all gears. First noticed on Saturday. Drove about 10 miles Saturday morning, then parked until around 4pm. Car started normally but rough shifts for first 5 miles.
It felt like the car would drop out of gear when shifting, then go back into the correct gear. There was definitely a "pause" before it went into gear, like bouncing up a set of stairs. Problem resolved itself and did not reoccur until this afternoon. Car was parked for 1-2 hours. Same rough shifting for 3-4 miles.
Recently changed the transmission fluid in my 2011 Elantra. Used the fill plug to check fluid. Small steady stream was coming out. Closed it up and took it for a ride. Was shifting very rough. Put more in and it felt better. Was wondering if there is a better way to check the fluid? I've heard that the dealer may have a sensor, is this true?
View 2 RepliesWell something I never thought would happen with only 14,313 babied miles on my 2013 silver Elantra. I was driving home from my mothers house and I thought I hit a pothole, next I stopped at a stop sign took off and it started shifting very rough through most of the gears. I drove it around for 30 minutes and it was pretty bad. I decided to get it towed, I don't feel like breaking down in it.
View 12 RepliesHad a quick question on if there is a right or wrong way to break in a brand new engine?
I have a 2011 Corolla S, Manual Transmission...Since ive got it i shift gears at 3,000 RPM's, I have a buddy who shifts every 3,500 RPM's. Is There any benefits to shifting at higher RPM's during the break in of the engine?
I have about 350 miles on my new jetta and i will like to know if its just me or did everyone with a manual go through the same, i feel that up shifting at higher rpms like 4k i feel like the clutch is grinding i actually feel it in the pedal, I haven't gone higher than 4k due to break in period. I also notice that there is no engage while getting out of first almost like its slipping but it is not, i have driven manual most of my life so i know i am not slipping the clutch.
View 4 RepliesHad problem with downshifting and up shifting quickly on its own and then engine light came on. 24,400 mi. Code P0713 Trans Temp Sensor "A" Circuit Input. They replaced it in a few hours and we will see how it goes. Had also had a problem of acceleration by its self when we first bought it and the gas mileage not being to par. Of course they said they haven't heard of that and they did an update/flash and haven't had that problem again, also had a broke front axle.
View 4 Replies2013 Elantra GT ... Odd sound when shifts at higher RPMs. Like a chirp, or a tiny blow off valve from an old home turboed civic. Some sort of leak? When the engine is under load, it sounds like I may have some sort of minor exhaust leak, though that is nowhere near audible in the video. Very curious as to what this is.
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Listen right at 0:14 when it shifts.
So I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm's going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I'm going up any sort of hill or trying to accelerate faster than normal.
When going up a hill the rpm's will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems sluggish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm's are high but I'm not going fast enough yet for the next gear.
This sounds like it would be some sort of problem-related to the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or something?
.I know this post sounds odd but its true. My wife has a 2006 Kia Optima with 197,000 miles and NOTHING has gone wrong. Well almost nothing. We've only had to replace the water pump and windshield wiper motor. We have it the oil changed and fluids checked and topped off before the factory recommendation. We bought the car in 2008 with 15,000 miles. Most of her miles are highway, to and from work.
Now my question. Its starting to sound rough, like its getting louder at higher RPM's. The ride was never smooth but it feels like the suspension is wearing out a bit. Should I risk taking it to a shop, having them look at it and tell me 1,000 that need to be replaced or fixed, or do we just let it ride until the wheels fall off? I feel like the old "if it aint broke, don't fix it" saying applys here. I had a friend tell me I should have really had the timing belt replaced by now. So Im kind of at a loss.
So my girlfriend has an 04 elantra 2.0... the car will be running fine but then after so long of driving(maybe 15, 20mins) itll start acting strange..
It will hesitate to accelerate and shift hard and at higher rpms. Then at cruising speed it will turn off instantly(no sputter, hesitation, almost as if you just turned the key off). Seconds later the engine will come back but the gauges die and the engine will remain on.
At that point i pulled over and as i was on the brakes the car died when I came to a complete stop. Once the car completely turned off it would not start back up. However jump starting it got it going. The car is not throwing any codes.
I'm having a ton of fun driving in Sport transmission mode. One thing I'm noticing though is pretty rough downshifting from 3-2-1 sometimes. Often I hear and feel a clunk.
So I'm wondering if the transmission may not be adapted to me yet, since I've only had the car for 5 weeks, or could I be looking at an issue. No lights or warnings on the dash.
Also wondering if there is a way to "reset" the learning algorithm of the transmission without the VAGCOM?
Let me start with I have a 2003 f250 5.4. The motor blew on my truck and I had a 100k motor dropped in it. I've put new spark plugs, ohmd out the coils. I tried both sets of injectors. cat delete and new fuel pump. It has rough idle and stalls but runs fine at higher rpms. Also has basically no brakes. I am thinking vacuum but I've check all the lines. No codes either!! also cleaned throttle body.
View 4 RepliesMy husband and I noticed that my Hyundai Elantra (2007) sounded rough when running over 60mph. The car has 61,000 miles on it and is due for an oil change, a radiator flush, and a fuel filter replacement. My manual says that the platinum coated (versus iridium coated) spark plugs would need to be replaced at 60K miles. I was told that the car would run rough at lower speeds if it was the spark plugs.
View 7 RepliesMy 2009 Accent has some very rough shifts from 1st to 2nd when I'm in the low RPMs.
Hyundai performed a transmission fluid flush and the other gears shift completely effortlessly. Is my tranny dying or what?
My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.