Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2011 - Transmission Started To Grind When Shifting
Nov 20, 2012
I purchased my car almost two years ago. I drive a lot for work, and my car now has 74000 kilometers on it.
So far its gone thru 3 CV Axle Joints on the drivers side, a radio unit, clutch bearing, fork, and fulcrum, and now there's something wore out in the rear suspension (squeaking and snapping).
The transmission in mine has also started to grind when shifting like the syncros are wearing out. Motor knocks when it's cold, sounds like the top end goes dry of oil when sitting overnight and takes awhile to get any.
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I recently purchased a 2011 Hyundai Elantra GL 4 Door. I am noticing a horrible but hard to define noise. It is like a whine (like power steering pump) but not because there is electric power steering on this car, it also is kind of a mechanical grind - can't really define the sound I will try to record and post later. Any way... the sound occurs when accelerating, the harder the acceleration the worse the sound.
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I have been having phantom automatic transmission problems with occasional harsh shifting, mostly up shifting through all the gears but sometimes downshifting. This problem started in May 2014, lasted off and on for several days, and then stopped occurring. There had been a few instances of small drops of fluid on my carport but nothing consistent. Then in September, the problem started again on the same basis: on/off again, nothing consistent. When I couldn’t locate the port under the hood to check the transmission fluid, I took the Elantra to the Boise Hyundai dealership to ask where the trans fluid port was located. My service rep told me that there was no port in the new vehicles and that the transmission fluid was not changed until 100,000 miles at a cost of $400. The service technicians could not find anything wrong with the vehicle when they hooked it up to their computers to check the error codes, and the vehicles would not perform the harsh shifting when they test drove the car. The techs re-set the adaptive points and I was sent on my way. A few days later, the harsh shifting started again on and off, phantom problem. I took the Elantra back into the dealership and told them to keep it for as many days as it took for a tech to drive it home and start it cold in the morning. The transmission did not perform the harsh shifting for the 80 miles the tech drove it home and back to the dealership for three days.
After driving the Elantra another week, the phantom trans problems re-occurred. After surfing the web and checking the Hyundai Customer Forum, all I could find was problems with 2010 Elantra transmissions and my service tech admitted that Hyundai had replaced thousands of 2010 transmissions.
Through the dealership I opened a Case File for my transmission problems because there is something definitely wrong with the vehicle and I want a new transmission, and will press my case to the max. I’ve kept a log since September, noted daily temperatures, and times the trans has performed harsh shifting. I’ve kept the problem to a minimum by letting the car warm up for about 5 minutes and will only drive it when the tachometer needle rests on 1,000 rpms.
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I have a 1986 Ford Bronco straight six 300 4 speed manual NP 435
She grinded a bit when shifting from a stand still but nothing terrible for an old rig but leaked oil bad from the rear main seal so I took out the tranny/t case to put in new clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and rear main seal. When I put it all back together shifting into 1st would grind like CRAZY. So would reverse but not near as bad. So I took it all back apart inspected everything even torqued the clutch to specification. Put it back together and same result. So I replaced the slave/master cylinder thinking the clutch wasn't pushing enough bench bled it and still no luck.
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2011 Elantra Limited, auto, 15,700 miles. Past couple of days I have experienced very rough shifts in all gears. First noticed on Saturday. Drove about 10 miles Saturday morning, then parked until around 4pm. Car started normally but rough shifts for first 5 miles.
It felt like the car would drop out of gear when shifting, then go back into the correct gear. There was definitely a "pause" before it went into gear, like bouncing up a set of stairs. Problem resolved itself and did not reoccur until this afternoon. Car was parked for 1-2 hours. Same rough shifting for 3-4 miles.
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Recently changed the transmission fluid in my 2011 Elantra. Used the fill plug to check fluid. Small steady stream was coming out. Closed it up and took it for a ride. Was shifting very rough. Put more in and it felt better. Was wondering if there is a better way to check the fluid? I've heard that the dealer may have a sensor, is this true?
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I have a 2012 elantra limited about 9 month's old with about 14,000 miles on it.
About a week ago I began noticing a burning smell. I first chalked it up to being 1,000 over the 3k mark for an oil change. However I then started to pay attention when I parked if there was any sign of fluids leaking. At first I didn't notice any or seemed like one or two drips. Well tonight I noticed a larger puddle that was def not water.
The other symptom is that it's been shifting up at higher RPMs. Tonight when I got on the freeway I was trying to speed up to 65 but the rpm gauge had me at over 4,000 rpms with normal acceleration...I was not gunning it. I also could not get the car to go past 60 at first, all the while the rpm increasing still, until I let off the gas then hit it again and seemed to trip it to shift and was able to get to 65.
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Well something I never thought would happen with only 14,313 babied miles on my 2013 silver Elantra. I was driving home from my mothers house and I thought I hit a pothole, next I stopped at a stop sign took off and it started shifting very rough through most of the gears. I drove it around for 30 minutes and it was pretty bad. I decided to get it towed, I don't feel like breaking down in it.
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Had problem with downshifting and up shifting quickly on its own and then engine light came on. 24,400 mi. Code P0713 Trans Temp Sensor "A" Circuit Input. They replaced it in a few hours and we will see how it goes. Had also had a problem of acceleration by its self when we first bought it and the gas mileage not being to par. Of course they said they haven't heard of that and they did an update/flash and haven't had that problem again, also had a broke front axle.
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I recently started having an issue where when I shift from 1 to 2 I'll get a quick grind of the gears. Here are the circumstances:
- the clutch is completely depressed, just the act of moving the shifter from 1 to 2 causes the grind.
- only when the car is moving.
- one time I was driving and coasting for a while just shifting back and forth from 1 to 2 with the clutch fully depressed and it kept happening.
- if I shift really slowly I can usually prevent it from happening, though I don't think it's RPM related.
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I've had 2 Elantra 2012 models 1 a gls the second a limited. As far as transmission issues both Elantra's from a cold start after allowing RPM's to idle down before taking off they both have started shifting hard going from 1st to second gear 1st car was around 8-9 k miles now 2nd started at 3 k miles. Since owning 2 cars same make same year same transmission and many times to dealer 1st car ended with Transmission replaced 2nd has now started doing the same thing they reset adaptive and next day did it again its now back at dealer waiting for them to diagnose again.
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The brakes on my 2014 Elantra Sport grind when they are wet/it's raining. They seem fine when dry.
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My automatic transmission slipped today. Really worried now. 2011 elantra with 36k on it. It was raining and I was turning right out of a shopping center. I floored it to beat the incoming traffic and the tranny slipped. It hasn't slipped since then and has been perfect so I know the dealer will say they can't replicate the problem. Should I be worried about this?
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Noticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.
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ok, here's the story about my brake change on a 2012 elantra GLS. I changed my pads and rotors myself, he has done many brake jobs with little to no problems over he years. anyway, changed them on all four wheels and now on the drivers side there is a slight noise that happens sometimes. The noise happens once very rotation of the tire/rotor, not a constant noise. it sounds almost like the pads are hitting the rotor at a certain point and making a grind noise. the brakes seems to function properly and the noise happens only when rolling at slow speeds or when accelerating from a stop.
I have done everything properly, even used some caliper glue to hold the pads against the caliper. what my question is, is there anyway that the rotor is warped from the manufacturer? it sounds like it is warped and the pads hit it once every rotation. I have opened them up 3 times now to make sure everything is proper, even put it in drive jacked up with no wheel on it to see if its running smooth, of course it wont make the noise when jacked up.
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I ran over a 18 wheeler tire , it knocked my exhaust a loose & a few days later my transmission started shifting into overdrive at 30 mph.
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I have an 04 MDX it has over 100k on it, and about the time it was approaching that milestone, the transmission started "hesitating" when shifting into overdrive.... then it began to try to shift into overdrive way to early driving in town.... and it felt like we were riding across rumble strips every time it would do this.....We have found out.... that if we do not move the transmission selector lever into the overdrive position, but leave it in D4 [thus manually avoiding the overdrive] it does just fine....
We just suffer in the gas mileage dept., but it does not feel like the transmission is going to fall out while riding in town....My question is; is there a way to disconnect or disable the overdrive so that no matter what gear someone puts it in, it will not try to shift into overdrive by itself.When I am driving it; it is not an issue, I remember to not use overdrive every time; but when the wife or the children drive, they sometimes forget, and I am afraid it is going to do real damage beyond low gas mileage......
I have heard that this is a common problem with this vehicle, and that replacing the transmission is a very short-lived solution, as the problem is design related and will eventually happen again.
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I have a 2001 pontiac grand am se 4cyl with an automatic transmission and I've been having issues with my transmission, about a month ago the transmission started shifting hard then just went out so i took it to a transmission repair shop and the tech said that it was the pulling clutches and i told him to completely rebuilt the transmission including new electronics and torque converter and he did i got it back and it drove fine for that day then stared doing the same thing my transmission slams into gears and I don't know what the problem is sometimes ill be going down the road and the transmission slams and then the trac light comes on for a little bit then goes back out??? also some days i can drive it a mile or 2 before it starts slamming into gear.. what this could be causing it to slam i would think it couldn't poss be the transmission as everything has been replaced? could something else be causing it to slam into gear..
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I have a 2000 V10 2WD Excursion with 104,000 miles. Last week it started shifting hard between first and second, but only when I am between 1500-2k RPMs. If I rev the engine higher, it shifts smooth. I checked the fluid and it is fine. I rarely tow anything except my little trailer to the dump every few months. I have a few questions:
1. Should I drop the pan and change the tranny filter?
2. Should/Can I check the rear diff fluid? (haven't noticed any leaks)
3. Could an inline flush and fill work?
4. I saw a post about a speed sensor in the rear diff. Could this be the issue?
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So this is my first 4wd vehicle. I read that to put vehicle in 4wd when the car is running, put the car in neutral and shift the 4wd stick to H or L depending on the driving condition. When I do that, it grinds a little before slipping into the mode. Is this normal? Am I shifting it into 4wd incorrectly? Also, when doing normal road driving on pavement (no rain or snow), should the car be kept in H or N on the 4wd stick?
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I have read the common problems and went ahead and replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, TPS. Also had a complete tranny flush done. The shifting problem persists, when I drive around 25-40 mph, the car will constantly upshift or downshift on its own even. Sorta like I get to 30 mph and it suddenly decides to downshift, like it has become ultra sensitive to minor increases in torgue(?) or can't decide if it wants to be in 3rd or 4th gear. Did check with Jiffy Lube to make sure they replaced it with SP3 fluid and they did. What else this might be? Check engine light comes on now and then and currently is off.
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